The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Questions for Justin...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
goes with
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
LOL
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Looks like a V-Trim compressor wheel which would likely be mated to a P-Trim turbine. With a non-wastegated turbine housing that large it's obviously designed for lower boost levels.

Do some research on this wheel setup and how it performs on a DSM even with a bolt-on turbine housing. It's a pig.
 
Oh I wont be using it LOL. I figured it was some diesel turbo or something. My brother mated the compressor wheel with a tdo4l turbine I think? Making something similar to a super 70 he had. I think the a/r was. .48 on that. I think he said for his conquest not quite sure though.
 
Have two small concerns about oil feed.

1. Broke the banjo bolt that bolts into the head for the feedline and ended up ordering a replacement from ebay. The dimension are the same the only issue is the holes are a little smaller, however, they are still bigger than the stock feedline. Would that be ok to run it like that or possibly drilling it out a little bit? What do you guys think?

Here is the picture for referance:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


2. The second concern is about a stock feedline on an overworked MHI turbo (25-30psi). I noticed that Lucas English was running a stock feedline on his evo3 16g and possibly the 68hta too (didn't find any pictures with 68hta). What are some thoughts on that cosidering that the head gets plenty of oil flow and ZDDP?

Big Thanks
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
1. Broke the banjo bolt that bolts into the head for the feedline and ended up ordering a replacement from ebay. The dimension are the same the only issue is the holes are a little smaller, however, they are still bigger than the stock feedline. Would that be ok to run it like that or possibly drilling it out a little bit? What do you guys think?
I say run it. You're still larger than the restrictor in the turbo end of the feed line.

2. The second concern is about a stock feedline on an overworked MHI turbo (25-30psi). I noticed that Lucas English was running a stock feedline on his evo3 16g and possibly the 68hta too (didn't find any pictures with 68hta). What are some thoughts on that cosidering that the head gets plenty of oil flow and ZDDP?
Tough debate- Curt Brown was running the factory 1G feed line on his Evo III as well.

If it were me I'd go with a filter housing feed and a .070-.075" restrictor just to prevent any unwanted drops in pressure....especially if the car is going to be more race-oriented where the turbo will be worked much harder than a street car.
 
OK, here is a question for Justin:

Lets say someone wanted to run a compound setup utilizing a Garrett/FP BB turbo and an MHO 14b/16g. WHat would be the best oil supply source for each turbo?

Garrett/FP-Head or OFH
MHI-Head or OFH

Garrett/FP and MHI both off OFH with a T and proper restrictors?
 
I have been rubbing my 3065 from the head with an fp restrictor for 2yrs now without issue.
 
Nothing new with my randon ?s..But ahh my new bov really isnt working.It's strange..I think I'm gonna put the stocker back on tomarrow and see if that helps.

The question then, is have you ever heard/seen of this kinda deal before..A bov making the car possibly hard to start, and not really opening when the throttle is snapped.
 
OK, here is a question for Justin:

Lets say someone wanted to run a compound setup utilizing a Garrett/FP BB turbo and an MHO 14b/16g. WHat would be the best oil supply source for each turbo?
Garrett/FP = Head with recommended restrictor / filter
MHI = Filter housing with .070-.075" restrictor.

This saves confusion of teeing into the same source for both turbos and keeps both turbos well within their recommended pressure level.
 
Garrett/FP = Head with recommended restrictor / filter
MHI = Filter housing with .070-.075" restrictor.

This saves confusion of teeing into the same source for both turbos and keeps both turbos well within their recommended pressure level.

Why wouldn't the mhi be fed from the head where no restrictor is needed? Serious question. And don't BB take more pressure?
 
Why wouldn't the mhi be fed from the head where no restrictor is needed? Serious question. And don't BB take more pressure?
There's even a restrictor in a MHI feed line from the head....and ball bearing turbos want as little of oil pressure and volume as you can give them. Here's how tiny the holes are which feed oil to the cartridge in a ball bearing turbo....there's one on each side:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Garrett/FP = Head with recommended restrictor / filter
MHI = Filter housing with .070-.075" restrictor.

This saves confusion of teeing into the same source for both turbos and keeps both turbos well within their recommended pressure level.

That is how I would be inclined to do them as well. Thanks for the confirmation. I appreciate it.
 
If it's a piece of shit aftermarket valve, I'm not shocked in the least that it doesn't work. Put the 1G valve on and leave it there. ;)

How did I call that one in my head..I was expecting that exact kinda answer..ROFL

And how did I not know the answer to that? :banghead:

Although, At least I can learn that a shitty aftermarket valve can cause starting problems, idle problems ETC..
 
I have the soft spring in, which makes it strange that the bov is not working causing problems..

The vac lines to bov are all new lines, cause the bov took a smaller one than the stock line..

I never had an issue like this before..I thought it was the battery and this cold ass weather that was making it hard to start ETC!!!I took the battery to the guy I bought it from, he added water and charged it twice..It was reading 11 something when I got there..Then when I picked it up it was reading right around 12.6..so strange right..


Apparently, your vac and bov can cause hard starting etc..You understand what I'm trying to lay down,;)
 
Searched but couldn't find what I was looking for. I did not want to waste a thread on this question so I figured I'd ask here. It's a pretty dumb question but please bear with me Justin. Would 14 psi on a 14b be the same as 14 psi on a 20g in the same exact setup?
 
14psi is 14psi no matter what turbo you're running- the boost pressure will remain the same. Where it gets complicated is airflow- every compressor generates airflow differently, and airflow itself differs by air temp, compressor efficiency, and any restriction in the setup....particularly on the turbine side. The reason we say 14psi is not the same between a T25 and GT35R is because of the airflow the compressor is moving based on the rate of compression from the variables shown above.

Generating power with a certain wheel/housing setup is a delicate balance between how much airflow the turbo generates and how much the engine consumes. Upset the balance too much and you'll experience unnecessary lag or surge issues if the turbo spools too quick.

Ideally a turbo with a large compressor paired to a small turbine like many of the hybrids available today favors lower boost levels. By going too large on the compressor wheel with a smallish turbine wheel/housing you'll potentially end up unwanted surge at the onset of boost, or otherwise experience more lag than you would with a smaller compressor but hit an airflow wall much sooner due to the added restriction of the small turbine wheel/housing.

Here's a single page from a great book that better-explains all the variables- it's quite advanced but worth taking a minute to read:

http://books.google.com/books?id=SvG0gq4DxecC&pg=PA135&lpg=PA135#v=onepage&q&f=false
 
On a basic level I usually explain it like this. Just thought Id throw it out there hope that's cool J

Take an empty water bottle from room temperature setting and open the cap to equalize the pressure. Let's assume sealevel pressure, 14.7psi. Seal the bottle cap and take it outside in the sun and let it sit and heat up. After a while the bottle expands and when you go to release the cap it vents off the excess pressure. Okay now put the cap back on and stich the bottle in the freezer. You'll see it shrinks up and when you pull the cap off, it sucks in more air, to equalize the pressure. Everywhere you took the bottle was the same air pressure, but different temperatures. This is all part of the air volume equation. Pressuse is only part of it, thats why you see a lot of people talking about airflow (lb/min) because its the total volume with no pending variable.
 
Sooo..The modded 1g flange to greddy works going to the greddy style flange..Going back to a 1g is not so simple..The 1g gasket is diamond shape..So putting the 1g valve back on the modded greddy flange.There is two spots where you modded the flange that the valve is going to leak.

Simple fix, a little silicone.

Crap I for got to take pictures.Ohh well..

I did not put it back on yet btw..
 
Hey justin been doing a ton of searchin the part #'s thread but came to the realization that upon rebuild different parts could be used so i was wondering if you culd identify wether this hx40 7 blade wheel is in fact the billet wheel or just the standard cast one. i am trying to upload an upclose picture of it but im not sure how to? could you help with that too please? :ohdamn:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top