The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

New Ebay Intake Manifold

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OverBoostinGST

15+ Year Contributor
273
2
May 15, 2005
Roselle, Illinois
I personally dont care for eBAY one bit, I use to think it was great site, back a few years but that was before it started being over run with cheap knock-off's, that you have a 90% chance of them breaking, and having some kind of failure. I dont mind paying more for parts from a reputable shop because in my mind that extra I pay is for me to have piece of mind that the product wont break, or if it does then its a freak accident that slipped through and I get it replaced for free. As far as those SMIMs I would say the one in the first link looks decent, the welds look good, they seem to have made a decent product. That Magnus rip-off's welds are decent, they could be better, but what can you expect when its not the real deal, and its off eBAY. Out of all the ones in the links you provided the first one seems to be the best one (I personnaly would just get a true Magnus SMIM, or an AMS VRS, or an SBR SMIM, but this is your choice).

Dustin
 
I think they both look good. Alot of times you can find good deals on ebay as long as you stay away from the moving parts(turbos,wastegates) you should be ok.
 
Come on 4g63, no fun. You have any idea how many magnus smim have cracked in half?
The first one looks nice in my opinon, I hope to pick one up in a couple months.
I couldn't find any expressed warranty with the 1st one, but the 2nd one came with a liftetime warranty..
Although warranties are sometimes just to pacify the baby. I'd still ask them if they had any kind of one.
 
blackbyrd said:
You have any idea how many magnus smim have cracked in half?
Nope can't say I do, if you could provide me with a number...actually a few number's.:)
1) How many?
2) How many were replaced my Magnus?
But still the first one seems to have better welds, and looks to be a little thicker material. Also I have to ask a question...what is the point of a warrenty if the next one you get breaks...and the next, and the next, ect, ect...?

Dustin
 
there was someone on the classifieds selling their Magnus SMIM...

it had developed a hairline fracture on the welds at one of the runners..

he repaired it, and it cracked again...

it's for sale there. with pics of the cracks.. for ppl that are curious
 
Was that a 100 shot of NOS?LOL
Thats crazy...but I think Ill take my odds with Magnus. Also how many eBAY manifolds cracked?:) Everything breaks, but what are the odds it will break, Im thinking eBAY stuff its 65%, compared to a reputable shop more like 2/100.
But DAMN that manifold is gone!!!!WTF
EDIT: In the first link I only count 2 not 3. The 4th post he has nothing but good things to say about it, and they sent him a new one very quickly, #6 it was caused by a back fire, and that will destroy any welds on any SMIM, #7 the same guy posted in the first link, so that one you can cross off, and #8 & 9 the general consensious is that it was from a back fire, and like I said before no SMIM will take a backfire like that without damage.

Dustin
 
I have one of my guys running the first listed manifold, and it seems to be a good manifold. The only thing, and this is true about any daily driven aluminum maifold, is, you really need to have a good set of rubber couplers to take the shock of the vibrations, and engine movement.

The most common problem with aluminum manifolds is that the crack on the number 4 runner on the head to manifold flange.
 
I have the first one as well, and I bought it after speaking in length to Joe (the owner.) It doesn't incorporate velocity stacks, which I really didn't care about, and we went over flow bench numbers and such.

Fit and finish is top notch, as well as the welds.

Performance - airflow in g/rev maintained, but that's essentially all I can use at the moment, is airflow numbers. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to make any back-to-back pulls on the old setup, but I might be able to now. Read on...

It cracked on me, where the runners met the plenum. Not on the weld, but right where the two meet. Called Joe up, and I was assured he stands behind his work no matter how many miles, how much abuse, etc. He questioned the amount of heat he used on the welds, potentially weakening the metal. Told me to send mine out, and he'd get me a brand new one within two days. That's customer service :thumb:

So, I now have the stock 1G intake back on the car, until (hopefully) mid this week when I get the other one back on.

If you're all nice, I'll make some pulls at 25PSI on this one, and 25PSI on the new one. Then again, wouldn't I feel stupid if it didn't make more power ROFL
 
Mike I suggest you EDIT your post, thats a sore subject, and would be best not to mention it.

Dustin
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
I have the first one as well, and I bought it after speaking in length to Joe (the owner.) It doesn't incorporate velocity stacks, which I really didn't care about, and we went over flow bench numbers and such.

Fit and finish is top notch, as well as the welds.

Performance - airflow in g/rev maintained, but that's essentially all I can use at the moment, is airflow numbers. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to make any back-to-back pulls on the old setup, but I might be able to now. Read on...

It cracked on me, where the runners met the plenum. Not on the weld, but right where the two meet. Called Joe up, and I was assured he stands behind his work no matter how many miles, how much abuse, etc. He questioned the amount of heat he used on the welds, potentially weakening the metal. Told me to send mine out, and he'd get me a brand new one within two days. That's customer service :thumb:

So, I now have the stock 1G intake back on the car, until (hopefully) mid this week when I get the other one back on.

If you're all nice, I'll make some pulls at 25PSI on this one, and 25PSI on the new one. Then again, wouldn't I feel stupid if it didn't make more power ROFL

Please do and post back here. I am interested.

Just so everyone knows, the last manifold posted the "Motoria" is a ssautochrome/xspower peice. Another FYI, SSAutochrome/XSPower dosent make anything, it is all bought from a china supply company
With XSPower items, you have to take quality piece by piece, like there Intercooler kits are awsome, but there maniolds and tubos suck a big one. They are probley made by differant manufactures.
 
I will have one of the Motoria SMIM's by the end of the week, I will try to post better pics of it. I will be installing it and comparing it to the stock 1G manifold I have. I will compare it by logging airflow through DSMLink. Any other suggestions on a good test for it? Pleae let me know ASAP. By the way this will be going on my car listed in my profile, SCM5031e 20-21 lbs of boost, 39-40lbs of air flow per DSMLink, stock cams/intake manifold. I have some Web 272's but I only want to change one part at a time to get a accurate test.
 
Well, what I intend to do is make some 3rd gear pulls on the same day, and compare 70-90 times as well. Hopefully I can swap manifolds out fast enough so that I can keep fairly similar intake temps.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top