The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

My new crankcase evacuation system

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Looks like two -10's and a -12.

Close Paul but not all of use are fortunate enough to feel 40+ PSI.:p

It that two -10AN lines feeding the catch can with only one -10AN line exiting? I would think that you'd want at least two lines going to the intake pipe (or one huge one that can outflow the two feed lines).

This can features two -8an lines in and one -10an out. After speaking with Calan I decided to go this route and I will have some logged date sooner or later to tell you how it really worked.

The outlet should be large enough to create a (vacuum) pressure differential across the valve cover and in turn draw out a mass majority of my crankcase pressure. Hopefully my data will prove this.

Robert
 
I recently placed an order for one of these cans :) I am doing two -8AN fittings off the valve cover to the can and a single -8AN line from the can to the intake.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Awesome thread guys
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I recently placed an order for one of these cans :) I am doing two -8AN fittings off the valve cover to the can and a single -8AN line from the can to the intake.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Awesome thread guys

Not saying that you did not, but did you check the hood clearance with the 8an fittings screwed to the weld in bung???? I had to cut a section of the brace in the hood so that my 8an's would fit. That is using a 90* NPT weld in, which is shorter than a straight weld in bung and the 90* fitting on top. My total height is 1.2 inches on the front and after 15 or so passes, I can see where it has been hitting the hood. Just checking :thumb:

For everyone else and the member that contacted me, I am sorry that I have not yet posted the video. I have about 2 hours or so of film covering everything but have yet to find a decent video editing program to condense the film to an appropriate size for viewing. I will post the video once I find a program and compose the video.

Robert
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Not saying that you did not, but did you check the hood clearance with the 8an fittings screwed to the weld in bung???? I had to cut a section of the brace in the hood so that my 8an's would fit. That is using a 90* NPT weld in, which is shorter than a straight weld in bung and the 90* fitting on top. My total height is 1.2 inches on the front and after 15 or so passes, I can see where it has been hitting the hood. Just checking :thumb:

For everyone else and the member that contacted me, I am sorry that I have not yet posted the video. I have about 2 hours or so of film covering everything but have yet to find a decent video editing program to condense the film to an appropriate size for viewing. I will post the video once I find a program and compose the video.

Robert

I may have that issue. My engine is out of the car at the moment so i was unable to check that.
 
For everyone else and the member that contacted me, I am sorry that I have not yet posted the video. I have about 2 hours or so of film covering everything but have yet to find a decent video editing program to condense the film to an appropriate size for viewing. I will post the video once I find a program and compose the video.

Robert

Do you already have the video on the hard drive and only need a program to convert to a different size/format, or are you looking for something to capture as well? If you only need conversion capability I use Format Factory it's free and pretty quick compared to some of the other free conversion software. It will convert to quite a few different formats and you can do just about any size you want, within reason...
 
Paul another thing to check is that your crank case is sealed completely. There's an article floating around that I think was posted on link about crankcase ventilation. One thing they mention is that to create a vacuum scenario everything has to be sealed. So what they did is pressure tested the crankcase and fixed what ever leaks show up. Another thing wouldn't it create more vacuum goin with a smaller line off the valve cover? I know when running them to a simple setup bigger lines are better to help escape what it can. But I can see it easier to create vacuum with less line to fill up.
 
One thing they mention is that to create a vacuum scenario everything has to be sealed. So what they did is pressure tested the crankcase and fixed what ever leaks show up.

What would you "seal" in a crankcase? If it wasn't sealed everywhere it needs to be, it would be leaking oil.

And pressure testing a crankcase wouldn't be very good for the seals and gaskets.
 
I recently placed an order for one of these cans :) I am doing two -8AN fittings off the valve cover to the can and a single -8AN line from the can to the intake.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Awesome thread guys

it will clear the evo hood just fine. mine set up just like that has over a 1in. with 10an before the heat shelds on the hood
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
What would you "seal" in a crankcase? If it wasn't sealed everywhere it needs to be, it would be leaking oil.

And pressure testing a crankcase wouldn't be very good for the seals and gaskets.

Here's the link and it makes perfect sense. Crankcase Vacuum Facts - Racing Engines & High Performance Oil Pumps

Not saying just the pressure through the roof just enough. You can have a seeping vc gasket, the dipstick can not be seated and leak, the stock oil cap can leak. This is why its a good idea to use a screw in type oil cap like Paul did.

Edit: and to add to what you ask out crankcase pressure has been tested as high as 5 psi under full boost before. Jack from jacks transmissions did a bunch of testing and posted results over on the link forums. His last setup he got alot of vacuum in the crankcase.
 
That is pretty extreme for our engines, but a good example of why you need to run a good PCV system.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

Jack was also doing some experimental and out-of-the ordinary things that were causing his excessive pressure.

Yes I understand all that. I'm far from a newbie when it comes to the 4G engine. The biggest problem we have is finding a pcv that doesn't leak from the factory. I've pulled idk how many different brands of new valves out and they allow air past being new.

Jack does do some extreme stuff. Even then it's the fact he went from extreme crankcase pressure down to negative crankcase pressure.
 
^Please post a link to those threads if you could, I'm trying to do some research and I couldn't find them on there.
 
To summarize my PCV system:

I have a PCV delete fitting that goes to a 3/8" check valve and then the intake manifold (later on i will put a catch can there but for now it will have to do)

The Evo is finally "Calanized" Two -8AN lines off the valve cover to the catch can and a single -8AN line to the intake.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Pretty much where it will sit

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Added my own bracket

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I copied 99gst_racer's intake fitting for the most part (thank you btw)

I think i should have asked for an extra 1/8NPT bung on the can so i could put a vacuum/boost gauge on it for some data
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Cool deal. :thumb:

I think i should have asked for an extra 1/8NPT bung on the can so i could put a vacuum/boost gauge on it for some data

Measuring the pressure inside the can wouldn't tell you much.

Looks like you can use the stock vent location. A 1/8 NPT will thread in there pretty easily; just don't let any metal get into the head. (Run a tap through the VC with it off the car, and use a vacuum to keep metal from getting under the baffles).

Thanks for the update!
 
Cool deal. :thumb:



Measuring the pressure inside the can wouldn't tell you much.

Looks like you can use the stock vent location. A 1/8 NPT will thread in there pretty easily; just don't let any metal get into the head. (Run a tap through the VC with it off the car, and use a vacuum to keep metal from getting under the baffles).

Thanks for the update!

Thanks for that, I will sort something out at a later date to measure crankcase pressure.

I forgot to show my VC baffles. I tore the stock ones out and did this

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The ports are inline with the HLA regulator and the new "baffle" shields the ports from the cam lobes
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
^Please post a link to those threads if you could, I'm trying to do some research and I couldn't find them on there.

I'll do some digging to see what info I can find. I know he posted a couple if vids and a little bit of info. Im pretty sure it was on the link forums.

Now as for the pcv thing, I noticed that the evo pcv looks just like ours. It has a different part number and goes anywhere from $19.00 to $23.00. The 1G one can be had for almost $7.00 for a factory one. Wonder what the big difference is between the two.
 
Geez, Paul! I am going to have to copy you on everything ;)

Question for you folks who are getting the AN fittings welded onto your intake pipes. Is there a certain measurement, or how far away from the turbo you are supposed to go for placement? Or, is it wherever it fits/clears? I like robertbaxley03's idea of going underneath the intake for a cleaner look. Once I get this figured out, my next debate is going to be placement of the AN fittings on the valve cover :D

With talking to Craig (calan), i think I will be going with -8AN on the valve cover and -10AN to the intake using one of his gorgeous catch cans.
 
Last edited:
Love some of the work in this thread, very clean and inspiring to me at least to want a better venting system in place :)

I really just wanted to add a little tip that i have no other place to really put it (and the pics in this thread keep making me think of it)

Instead of looping or capping those vac line ports on the throttle body, just pull them out, and an M5 x .80 tap with thread them perfectly where you can then get a couple m5 allen set screws and with a dap of loc-tite put them in flush for a much cleaner look

actually this beautifull looking bay is what made me want to bring this up (also, you can flip the TPS 180* to make the plug face downward making the wiring just that much easier to hide/tuck out of site a little more)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Here's mine, it only took me a year to install it. Sorry Craig!

-8AN both in and out. Most go with the the larger -10AN fittings but I opted for the -8AN for ease of installation to the stock VC ports and not needing to weld anything up. Just drill/tap the existing holes in the valve cover to 1/4" NPT and use the stock PCV fitting off a 1g IM, it'll thread right in and it's OD is 1/2" which is the same size as the ID of -8AN hose. :cool:

My excuse for not getting this puppy installed for so long was the clearance between the catch can and battery down on the subframe. I, for the life of me, couldn't figure out how to secure the battery after dropping down on the subframe to keep it from jumping into the can. Once I figured it out though my sweet piece of catch can eye candy was installed soon after!

Thanks Craig!

attachment.php


:dsm:
 
After 2 weeks of DD'ing (15 miles each way) and three (30psi) passes down the local 1/8th in-between this is all that came out of my Calan Can. Yum.

Nothing in the intake track!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


:dsm:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
gofer, do you have a close up of how you mounted your catch can? I have looked all over my 2g and no way I can mount it as low as you did even with my battery on the subframe. The only place for me to mount it in a similar location are the 2-bolt holes directly above it.
 
gofer, do you have a close up of how you mounted your catch can? I have looked all over my 2g and no way I can mount it as low as you did even with my battery on the subframe. The only place for me to mount it in a similar location are the 2-bolt holes directly above it.
There are two M6 x 1.00 bolt holes right there above the battery, they're just a bit offset so one of the M6 x 1.00 bolts is longer and has a spacer on it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The spacer looks like this, it's a 1/2" long and for an M6 bolt. I bought the hardware at a Ace Hardware a few blocks away, too.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


:dsm:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top