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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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Does anyone know if not having the exhuast grounded makes the 02 sensor not work properly?

I know I've seen that claimed in a few threads around here. I can't remember if anybody provided substantial evidence for the claim being true though. I'll search the forums and see what I can dig up for you.
 
My ground has not been hooked up for over a year and I have not noticed anything different. Although my car is not my daily so not sure if the gas mileage changed as I only drive it in the warmer months on weekends.
 
Did you ever figure out where the leak was coming from on the transmission?

The leak is def. the rear main seal, not the transmission. My oil is going down and my tranny is staying filled, so thats that. I just need to find the time to take it to JNZtuning to have them fix it since they told me they would fix it for free.
 
Hey i tried sending you a pm but im not sure if you received it.
i was curious what trans you are using. I seen you state it is a shep trans but im more curious if its your 2g trans or if you had to get a 1g trans. Let me know whats needed i tried searchign around but no one seems to talk about this or if they do everyone says something differant.
Thanks alot and props on the build
 
Hey i tried sending you a pm but im not sure if you received it.
i was curious what trans you are using. I seen you state it is a shep trans but im more curious if its your 2g trans or if you had to get a 1g trans. Let me know whats needed i tried searchign around but no one seems to talk about this or if they do everyone says something differant.
Thanks alot and props on the build

When you do a 6 bolt swap into a 2g, you use a 2g transmission.
 
The worm clamp did not fix my A/F gauge problem :notgood:
Oh well....Ill figure it out someday, or just rip it out for the wideband.

I finally got my oil temp sender hooked up, oil temps are right between 180*-190* with the air cooled oil cooler. Right in the same range as my coolant, 190*.

The car is currently at JNZtuning getting the rear main seal fixed and the motor has 290 miles on it now. Still running strong! I did a couple 5psi pulls from 3-5k, and it feels like its gonna pull hard, I cant wait.

I got my stft right around 0 and the ltft lo right around 0 too. My ltft mid is staying around 10 and im working on getting it down. I added some airflow on the slider and im waiting for it to drop.

Ill keep you guys posted...
 
Im posting this information to help people out. I get PM's all the time from people saying how helpful this thread is for them while doing the 6 bolt swap. But I do get one question alot, what transmission to use? Well Im posting the info now so anyone reading this in the future will know the answer.

You have to use the 2g transmission.

The 1g transmission only has one motor mount on it, the 2g has 3. You use the 2g tranny, you can reuse your 2g pressure plate and clutch, but you need a 1g 6 bolt flywheel.

Also, the 2g tranny bolts to the 7 bolt block with 4 transmission bolts that go through the tranny and into the block. You will only use 3 of these bolts during the swap because the 4th bolt wont work on the 6 bolt block.

The 1g transmission bolts to the 6 bolt block with 4 bolts too. But 3 of them go through the tranny and into the block and the last 1 goes through the block and into the tranny back by the pass. side axle.

The bolt is alot smaller in diameter and longer than the 4th bolt you will have left over. So you will have to get that bolt to correctly mate the tranny to the block with 4 bolts. Im sure people get away with only bolting it up with 3 bolts, but I wanted all 4. If you call JNZtuning and tell them you need the 1g transmission bolt that goes through the block and into the tranny, they can get it for you. I think I paid 2 or 3 dollars for it.

Goodluck to all those doing current & future swaps :thumb:
 
Now you hafto get one of the locals to buy my fully built 2.3 stroker long block (smim/injectors/bov), everything included, brand new on the stand for $3500... i'm losing over 4k!!!!! They hafto come check it out i'm not even an hr away ;) It was just built and I sold my shell it was going in.
 
About grounding the exhaust - click here and see my photos I posted up. I did install my RRE long DP (which deletes the catalytic converter) and instead made another grounding wire that attaches itself to the DP flange that connects to the cat-back exhaust system. I just don't have any pictures of it.

I actually continued my little side project over the summer and made a (temporary) ground between the DP flange (where the lock nut bolts on to the O2 housing stud) and another bolt on the car's frame. This didn't last long. I had soldered the ring terminal (without crimping) to the 4-gauge wire, but obviously the temperature was too much for the solder. The wire was probably dragging on the ground not too soon after pulling out of the driveway. :coy: I should have knew that would happen.
 
So this whole time I thought it was the rear main seal leaking oil out of my transmission. Apparently it wasnt the rear main seal!
The first time I think It was the rear main seal and the oil galley plug, but this time It was just the oil galley plug.
ANOTHER JAM SCREW UP! Just one more to add to the list of things they screwed up on this block. Since it wasnt the rear main seal, thats MORE money out of my pocket to fix something JAM screwed up on. Man I wish I never ordered this block from them :notgood:

On the plus side, my car will FINALLY not have oil coming out of the bellhousing :thumb:
 

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That's the SAME problem that I had last year. Go to pepboys and get some Permatex high temp sealant (it's white) and some Great Stuff sealant. I did this on my last build and it works GREAT, no leaks!!! I also swabbed the threads with brake cleaner prior to reinstalling a new plug. :thumb: I guess everyone who builds these motors doesn't put any sealant in between the threads. Perhaps the BSP thread style does not seal as well as NPT?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151343220-post1.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151343260-post11.html
 
We use fast dry, hard set on our freeze plugs and on the oil galley plug. Never have issues after using that. I'm glad we got things figured out for you Mike. ...it's just unfortunate that it happened to you. Your car's all done and ready to be picked up. :rocks:
 
Thanks guys...

And Chris, You have been nothing buy helpful since the beginning, any and every problem I had you helped me out to the best of your abilitly and its much appreciated. Hopefully this will be the LAST time my car is in your garage. Well atleast until you get a dyno! You guys were the only people to touch my car besides me in the past 5 years..
Thanks again! :thumb:
 
The motor now has 510 miles on it. Its driving fine, Im getting my fuel trims in line slowly. My stft and my ltft lo are right around 0%. My lift mid is at about 5%.
I cant calibrate the 400hz + sliders till I finish breaking the motor in.

One thing Im confused about is how far above 0 in the airflow sliders is normal. Is any amount ok? Or should you try and be as close to zero as possible? For example, my 250hz slider is at say +15, and my ltft mid is at 5%. According to dsmlinkwiki I should up my airflow on the 250hz slider 5 more to +20 to bring my ltft mid down closer to 0%. Is that ok?

My airflow sliders are all over the place, but my trims are close to zero.

Also..
I had my car up on my buddies lift the other day to fix my front bumper since it was hanging a bit. While I was under the car I was checking out my -6an line that I installed a few months ago from the tank to the fuel rail.

This is my question, should the line smell like fuel? Is that normal?
If you put your nose up the to line anywhere on the line, you can smell the gas right through the ss line. The line felt dry everywhere, I didnt see a leak anywhere. I have steady fuel pressure and I never see fuel anywhere on my garage floor. I highly doubt there is a leak.

Anyone else have a ss fuel line that they would be willing to give a sniff for me? LOL
 
I figured I would update you guys on my A/F gauge problem.

It just magically started working the other day, out of no where.
It started to work once I got my fuel trims more in line, specifically my ltft mid.
 
Also for the plug if you want TRy permatex indian head, hi temp hg sealer it will for sure stop it form leaking. you'll see why.
 
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