The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

My 2g 6 Bolt Build

Please Support Morrison Fabrication

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1993eclipseGS said:
Did you do anything with the wires? Usually if one of the wires are connected wrong, Or not connected any longer, It will stay at a constant 1 green light at the very end of the gauge.
Click to expand...

Not that I know of? I did mess with the wires a little, when I installed my new gauges I moved the power from my pillar to the switch that controlled my other gauges. The only wire that could be messed up would be the one that connects to the ECU, I checked it out when I installed DSMlink and it looked fine...

I know its getting power bc the gauge works, obviously its grounded, so the only wire left is the voltage source for A/F readings. But I didnt touch that during the install of everything else. Could a bad 02 sensor make it read like that?
 
I forget which wire not hooked up correctly makes it read only one green led. I would hafto try and find out, I've been looking on google but can't find any information off hand. I know I've done it by accident years ago with a narrow band. One wire was connected wrong, Either power, ground, Or the purple wire. Even though it's lighting up, I think it coudl be a bad ground , Or power. I forget exactly i'm sorry I can't give you the exact answer right now, But one of the three wires are not hooked up correctly any longer.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
I forget which wire not hooked up correctly makes it read only one green led. I would hafto try and find out, I've been looking on google but can't find any information off hand. I know I've done it by accident years ago with a narrow band. One wire was connected wrong, Either power, ground, Or the purple wire. Even though it's lighting up, I think it coudl be a bad ground , Or power. I forget exactly i'm sorry I can't give you the exact answer right now, But one of the three wires are not hooked up correctly any longer.
Click to expand...

The only wire I touched was the power wire, which has to be hooked up correctly or it wouldnt be lighting up. The black and purple were not touched.
 
that's weird, I've seen this happen a few times, the gauge would jump right to the very last green light and stay there, But now I forget exactly what caused it being I haven't seen a narrowband gauge in so long. I have one up my garage if you don't figure the problem out I'll wire it into my srt-4 and mess with the wires and see if I can get it to mess up.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
that's weird, I've seen this happen a few times, the gauge would jump right to the very last green light and stay there, But now I forget exactly what caused it being I haven't seen a narrowband gauge in so long. I have one up my garage if you don't figure the problem out I'll wire it into my srt-4 and mess with the wires and see if I can get it to mess up.
Click to expand...

Hopefully Ill figure it out, I appreciate the help though. Its going to be coming out for a WB setup anyway. I just want to know why its doing that?
Im wondering if my 02 sensor is bad?
 
If the gauge is constantly at rich, your oxygen sensor is shot. You can easily tell this with dsmlink. Put up the O2 in your captured values. Start the car and hit F11. You'll start to stream. Pay attention to the o2 line. It should be oscillating up and down, up and down. If it isn't, need a new sensor.
 
Spoolin98 said:
I was wondering if anyone knew the reason for this. My NB A/F gauge reads a constant rich? It never did this before I did all these upgrades, it used to bounce around, now it just stays all the way to the right in the green all the time no matter what.

I thought it was from upgrading my fuel system, but after installing DSMlink and adjusting my STFT and LTFT lo to around 0%, the gauge still reads rich. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Did you re-attach the body grounds to the exhaust pipe? I had a simlar problem that was fixed by grounding the exhuast pipe.
 
Black95TSIawd said:
If the gauge is constantly at rich, your oxygen sensor is shot. You can easily tell this with dsmlink. Put up the O2 in your captured values. Start the car and hit F11. You'll start to stream. Pay attention to the o2 line. It should be oscillating up and down, up and down. If it isn't, need a new sensor.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ill do this.
If I remember correctly, I was watching my voltage on my turbo timer and it was moving around, so does the A/F on the turbo timer.
I have logs posted on the link forums of my cars idle, Ill check it out when I have the time.
 
Spoolin98 said:
Yeah I def dont have that hooked up anymore, I have a 3inch buschur turbo back w/ test pipe and its doesnt have a spot to hook that ground up to. Can I make a ground wire and hook it up to an exhuast manifold stud?
Click to expand...

Just hook the wire up to the bolts from the downpipe to the catback.

From this thread again:

Now everything bolt and nut should be torqued down to specs. BUT! We still have to connect the grounding strap to the downpipe somehow. When I ripped off the old grounding strap from the rusted catalytic convertor cover, the "ring" was rusted on there too. So I cut that off and bought a new "ring" and crimped it on the end of the grounding strap. Make sure the ring is big enough to slide onto the bolt that bolts the test-pipe to the downpipe. This is because I used that bolt to, both hold the grounding strap AND tighten down the downpipe to the test-pipe. Here are some pictures to explain it a little better:
Click to expand...
 
turbosax2 said:
Just hook the wire up to the bolts from the downpipe to the catback.

From this thread again:
Click to expand...

I would have If I used bolts to hold the testpipe to the downpipe. My exhaust is a slip on type, the downpipe slides into the testpipe and then the testpipe slides over the catback. I didnt use clamps to hold it togther because A) its on really really tight and isnt going anywhere once bolted to the 02 housing B) once you clamp them down, they are a pain to get off. The way I have it set up now, I can remove my downpipe and cat really easily, just unbolt the downpipe from the 02 housing and everything slides right off each other.

So I need to ground it some other way...
 
Spoolin98 said:
I would have If I used bolts to hold the testpipe to the downpipe. My exhaust is a slip on type, the downpipe slides into the testpipe and then the testpipe slides over the catback. I didnt use clamps to hold it togther because A) its on really really tight and isnt going anywhere once bolted to the 02 housing B) once you clamp them down, they are a pain to get off. The way I have it set up now, I can remove my downpipe and cat really easily, just unbolt the downpipe from the 02 housing and everything slides right off each other.

So I need to ground it some other way...
Click to expand...

Is there any room to fit the ground strap ring in one of the slip fit connections? Basically anywhere you can just wedge it in will work fine. When my brother still had his cat we just shoved the ring between two metal folds in the cat and it held ok. If the ground strap isn't quite long enough you can probably just replace the strap with a new wire.
 
turbosax2 said:
Is there any room to fit the ground strap ring in one of the slip fit connections? Basically anywhere you can just wedge it in will work fine. When my brother still had his cat we just shoved the ring between two metal folds in the cat and it held ok. If the ground strap isn't quite long enough you can probably just replace the strap with a new wire.
Click to expand...

Hmmm...Im not sure how much room there is in there? Ill have to check it out. Would grounding the exhaust manifold stud/nut do the same thing? I would think so...
 
gixrman said:
Use a worm clamp. That won't look to getto!!
Click to expand...

Whats a worm clamp?

My plan is to just ground the exhaust somewhere real quick and see if it fixes the gauge problem, if it does, then Ill find a creative way to fix it right.

Is this hurting the actual performance of the 02 sensor? If the exhuast is not grounded, does that mean the 02 sensor isnt going to work correctly until I ground it?
 
Worm drive clamp.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
turbosax2 said:
Worm drive clamp.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Click to expand...

Ohhh, I didnt know thats what they were called. So your saying get a 3 1/2" worm clamp and clamp the ground to the exhuast? Thats not a bad idea, i dont care if it looks ghetto anyway, its under the car.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!

Similar threads

ILLiCliPSE
My 6-bolt build...Input?
Replies
5
Views
1K
stevestevesteve
stevestevesteve
outkastracing
started my 6 bolt build
Replies
24
Views
3K
outkastracing
outkastracing
6 bolt swap/build MY VERY FIRST!!
Replies
14
Views
2K
TiradoCC
Critique my 6 bolt swap/build please
Replies
5
Views
1K
2gAWDTalon
2gAWDTalon
nuclearr
6 bolt head build
Replies
6
Views
1K
fourreGsixty3
fourreGsixty3
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top