My 2g 6 Bolt Build

[Spoolin98]

You need to get rid of that narrow band sensor and invest on a wideband.

By reading your last post, it seems like you might have started your car for the first time rich and drove it rich for 25 miles. Am I wrong? You should not have started that motor until you had all supporting mods and gauges installed.

What supporting mods are you talking about? The gauges were installed when I started the motor. I will get a wideband eventually. I spent enough money already and dont have a couple hundred dollars to dump on that currently.

 

[snowborder714]

You should not have started that motor until you had all supporting mods and gauges installed.

Have you not read this entire thread?

 

[b00stedAWD]

What I'm trying to say is that you should have just waited until you've purchased a wideband so you'll know your correct a/f ratio. That way you could have leaned it using MAFT. I know, this hobby is very expensive. I've spend well over 20k.

 

[Spoolin98]

What I'm trying to say is that you should have just waited until you've purchased a wideband so you'll know your correct a/f ratio. That way you could have leaned it using MAFT. I know, this hobby is very expensive. I've spend well over 20k.

Well I have a datalogger and the MAFT, so Im planning on leaning it out with that. the problem is the battery on the logger dies too quickly, It wont hold a good charge. Im gonna lean it out as soon as possible.

 

[olmytsi]

Nice build man! I'm sure you know this, but a nice build like this deserves more than a maft and logger setup. But of course, im sure you are broke (been there) so you will have to wait to get something else. Definitely think about getting dsmlink or a chipped ecu. The maft is ok but not optimal. I had a maft (still have it on the car) but i ended up switching back to the 2g mas when i got dsmlink.

Tuning with the maft and logger can work but you are still unable to monitor alot of things. As far as your full rich condition, only way to see what is going on is to lean out the maft and see if it changes.


I had an egt gauge a few years ago but i got rid of it after i got a wideband. I wouldn't rely on it since its not in the right spot and yes you can just weld the hole shut when you switch it to the right spot.

 

[Spoolin98]

Nice build man! I'm sure you know this, but a nice build like this deserves more than a maft and logger setup. But of course, im sure you are broke (been there) so you will have to wait to get something else. Definitely think about getting dsmlink or a chipped ecu. The maft is ok but not optimal. I had a maft (still have it on the car) but i ended up switching back to the 2g mas when i got dsmlink.

Tuning with the maft and logger can work but you are still unable to monitor alot of things. As far as your full rich condition, only way to see what is going on is to lean out the maft and see if it changes.


I had an egt gauge a few years ago but i got rid of it after i got a wideband. I wouldn't rely on it since its not in the right spot and yes you can just weld the hole shut when you switch it to the right spot.

Thanks for the compliment.
I just got my hands on a 95 Eprom, DSMlink is coming as soon as I finish breaking in the motor.

Why did you switch back to the 2g mas when you got dsmlink?

 

[olmytsi]

Using the maft with dsmlink requires you to calibrate it which means messing with the airflow sliders which throws off the ecu calculations and makes tuning a lil more difficult. And then my buddy Tony who owns a 95 gsx is running high 9s using dsmlink and a 2g mas (using the fake mas option) and he told me he messed with the maft ALOT and just gave up on it. So i switched back to the 2g mas and tuning was a breeze. I still have the gm maf and maft and plan on using it when version 3 of dsmlink gets released (it will have a translator built in and tuning should be just like using a stock mas).

Link to the 9 second dsmlink/2g mas beast: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/pages.php?pageid=20

Notice he still has the gm maf in place but it is not plugged in, he is using the stock mas.

It's split 50/50, ALOT of people run the gm maf and go really fast and ALOT of people just gave up on it and went back to the stock mas and go really fast. But overall, evryone agrees that tuning with the stock mas is easier. You will see once you get on the dsmlink forums.

 

[Spoolin98]

Using the maft with dsmlink requires you to calibrate it which means messing with the airflow sliders which throws off the ecu calculations and makes tuning a lil more difficult. And then my buddy Tony who owns a 95 gsx is running high 9s using dsmlink and a 2g mas (using the fake mas option) and he told me he messed with the maft ALOT and just gave up on it. So i switched back to the 2g mas and tuning was a breeze. I still have the gm maf and maft and plan on using it when version 3 of dsmlink gets released (it will have a translator built in and tuning should be just like using a stock mas).

Link to the 9 second dsmlink/2g mas beast: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/pages.php?pageid=20

Notice he still has the gm maf in place but it is not plugged in, he is using the stock mas.

It's split 50/50, ALOT of people run the gm maf and go really fast and ALOT of people just gave up on it and went back to the stock mas and go really fast. But overall, evryone agrees that tuning with the stock mas is easier. You will see once you get on the dsmlink forums.

Thanks for the info...

 

[Spoolin98]

I need some help tuning my car. Once I get the datalogger working, what exactly am I trying to do?

So I log RPM's 02 and Timing?
Or RPM, 02, Timing, STFT and LTFT?

What I got so far from research is Im going to try and tune for a .92 02 reading?
Correct me if Im wrong.

Im not worried about tuning for WOT yet, I just want the car to not run so rich for the remainder of the break in period. So on my MAFT, I want to tune the Base, Idle, and Mid throttle.

So when I start Im suppose to start with the Base. Cruise 35-45mph and log my rpms, 02, and which fuel trim? LTFT or STFT? Then try and get my 02 around .92? And at the same time try to get LTFT (i think? or STFT?) to be as close to zero as possible? Then tune for idle and mid throttle after tuning for base?

Im just looking for some help as to what Im trying to do while tuning. What should I be logging and what should I be aiming for on the datalogger? What should my 02, fuel trims, and timing look like at idle, cruise, mid throttle? Any help would be appreciated.

I have the mechanics down on the motor, now I just need to learn HOW TO TUNE

 

[eclipse08]

Good work on the project, it looks like it will be a beast. As for the problems with the leaks I can definately say I've been there, and all I can suggest is just hang in there it will be worth it in the end once she's running like a bat out of hell. I had a similar problem with my rear main seal when I did my 6 bolt swap, somehow the seal got a hairline crack in it during assembly and I ended up having to pull the tranny off just to replace that one seal. As for the fuel pressure I just wanted to make sure you're aware that the reading should be 43.5psi with key in the ignition position (not running) and 38psi with motor running. As for the fpr mounting location I'm in the same boat you are, there is just not much space to mount it in a 2g, mine is temporarily by the brake fluid resevoir until I can find a permanent spot for it.
Another issue I wanted to emphasize (as several people already have) is to move that oil pressure sender to a remote location. I had to toss two of them in the garbage from mounting mine to the oil filter housing. I now have in mounted to the firewall underneath the brake fluid resevoir and have not had any problems with it whatsoever. You should be able to pick up the line and fittings for about $20-30 from various vendors on the internet. Heres a pick of how I did mine, good luck with the car:

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[Spoolin98]

Good work on the project, it looks like it will be a beast. As for the problems with the leaks I can definately say I've been there, and all I can suggest is just hang in there it will be worth it in the end once she's running like a bat out of hell. I had a similar problem with my rear main seal when I did my 6 bolt swap, somehow the seal got a hairline crack in it during assembly and I ended up having to pull the tranny off just to replace that one seal. As for the fuel pressure I just wanted to make sure you're aware that the reading should be 43.5psi with key in the ignition position (not running) and 38psi with motor running. As for the fpr mounting location I'm in the same boat you are, there is just not much space to mount it in a 2g, mine is temporarily by the brake fluid resevoir until I can find a permanent spot for it.
Another issue I wanted to emphasize (as several people already have) is to move that oil pressure sender to a remote location. I had to toss two of them in the garbage from mounting mine to the oil filter housing. I now have in mounted to the firewall underneath the brake fluid resevoir and have not had any problems with it whatsoever. You should be able to pick up the line and fittings for about $20-30 from various vendors on the internet. Heres a pick of how I did mine, good luck with the car:

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Thanks for the compliment...
As for the fuel pressure, All I did was power the fuel pump with the car off and the vacumm line disconnected and set it to 43.5psi. With the car running, its a little lower than that, but its not as low as 38. How did you set yours exactly?

Im not sure about your car, but mine doesnt build fuel pressure with the key in the ignition position. Its only builds pressure when you crank it over and start it. So how are you setting the fuel pressure with the key in the ignition position?

Why did you have to throw two senders out? What happened?

 

[snowborder714]

How did you set yours exactly? Im not sure about your car, but mine doesnt build fuel pressure with the key in the ignition position. Its only builds pressure when you crank it over and start it. So how are you setting the fuel pressure with the key in the ignition position?

He has DSMlink (as do I) and you can power on the fuel pump using it. So you just have to put the key in the ON position and click a button to turn the fuel pump on. This way you don't have to worry about disconnecting the vacuum line (since the AFPR won't be seeing any vacuum).

The fuel pump doesn't come on until you crank it over. You'd either have to use DSMlink (or some other software...not sure of others off the top of my head) or wire a switch in to turn it on manually.

 

[Spoolin98]

He has DSMlink (as do I) and you can power on the fuel pump using it. So you just have to put the key in the ON position and click a button to turn the fuel pump on. This way you don't have to worry about disconnecting the vacuum line (since the AFPR won't be seeing any vacuum).

The fuel pump doesn't come on until you crank it over. You'd either have to use DSMlink (or some other software...not sure of others off the top of my head) or wire a switch in to turn it on manually.

Well actually, there is a plug on the firewall that if you feed it power it turns the fuel pump on, which is what I did. Then I adjusted the fuel pressure that way. So Im not sure if thats the correct way or not? I would assume so, otherwise how would all the people without dsmlink set thier fuel pressure?

All I know is that my FP gauge reads 43.5 psi with the car not running. While its running it reads slightly less, but not as low as 38psi.

Thats a pretty cool feature, i want dsmlink...

 

[turbosax2]

Yes, that way is fine. Another way is to just take the vacuum hose off the afpr while the car is idling and set the pressure then.

 

[Spoolin98]

Yes, that way is fine. Another way is to just take the vacuum hose off the afpr while the car is idling and set the pressure then.

Ok cool, thanks.

Any help with my tuning issue guys?

 

[eclipse08]

As for the oil pressure senders going out the vibration from the motor and the heat just ends up killing them making them useless. If you look at the instructions that came with the sender it states on there also that you want to mount it in a remote location away from heat and vibration to avoid problems. I'm sorry I forgot you stated that you have planned on purchasing dsmlink but do not have it yet so the method I explained would not work for you, it is a tremendous tool to have. As I have had both a digital tuning datalogger/safc and now DSMLink, the DSMLink software is far superior to just a regular datalogger and allows you much more play to get your car running exactly the way you want it. I would suggest getting one as soon as you can. As for the fuel pressure difference mine is most likely a little different than yours just based on the different setups. I have upgraded cams, 1mm oversized valves as well so these aspects affect my vaccum pressure which in turn affects the fuel pressure settings that I run. For instance vaccum pressure at idle should be 18-20in/Hg for a stock DSM, whereas mine is roughly 10-12in/Hg. (Very lumpy/throaty idle) As long as your at 43.5 base fuel pressure you should be fine. Most people state that 42-45psi base fuel presure is fine in the 2g turbo models.

 

[Spoolin98]

As for the oil pressure senders going out the vibration from the motor and the heat just ends up killing them making them useless. If you look at the instructions that came with the sender it states on there also that you want to mount it in a remote location away from heat and vibration to avoid problems. I'm sorry I forgot you stated that you have planned on purchasing dsmlink but do not have it yet so the method I explained would not work for you, it is a tremendous tool to have. As I have had both a digital tuning datalogger/safc and now DSMLink, the DSMLink software is far superior to just a regular datalogger and allows you much more play to get your car running exactly the way you want it. I would suggest getting one as soon as you can. As for the fuel pressure difference mine is most likely a little different than yours just based on the different setups. I have upgraded cams, 1mm oversized valves as well so these aspects affect my vaccum pressure which in turn affects the fuel pressure settings that I run. For instance vaccum pressure at idle should be 18-20in/Hg for a stock DSM, whereas mine is roughly 10-12in/Hg. (Very lumpy/throaty idle) As long as your at 43.5 base fuel pressure you should be fine. Most people state that 42-45psi base fuel presure is fine in the 2g turbo models.

How is it that a stock sender can last so long, but yet an aftermarket one cant? Thats nonsense

I have oversized valves too, but stock cams for now..
Thanks for the input.

I really need help with this tuning issue if someone could help me out

 

[b00stedAWD]

I wouldn't tune without a wideband.

 

[Spoolin98]

Plenty of people tune without a wideband.

Im not going to buy a wideband right now and I need to lean it out a little.

So if someone could help me out I would appreciate it.

Post #509 explains what I need help with.

 

[Spoolin98]

I was at the garage today, figured I would share some photos I took.

I still need help with my tuning issue if someone is willing to help me out

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[Tarascan79]

Im so jealous of you man. Your car looks great,dont give up on it.

 

[pitbull419]

Man your car looks great.
Im getting ready to start my next build.I hope it goes as smooth as yours has so far, for being a DSM

 

[iziegsx]

Looking good man. Im almost done my full 6 bolt swap but we ran into some hiccups so that sets me back another 2 weeks.

 

[Spoolin98]

Thanks for the compliments guys

pitbull419, im not sure if you read this whole thread or not, but this build went far from smooth!

 

[peypey's ride]

Nice ride man! Clean engine bay. I have been following this for awhile now, and it reminds me of my build. Check the profile. Hows the tuning goin? Still runnin rich?