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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY CAR???

Im so irritated right now. I picked my car up from JNZtuning and brought it home. I started it up and its STILL leaking from inside the transmission! But this time I think its transmission fluid, not oil. It has a redish tint to it.

I called JNZ and they dont think its the rear main seal, they think its the input shaft seal on the tranny. It never leaked before! WTF, I just cant catch a break with this damn car.

Does anyone know if you can damage a input shaft seal while doing a rear main seal? I just dont know if its JNZ's fault or not???

BTW, its a shep tranny with less than 10K miles on it.

I feel your pain buddy, when my stock tranny took a dump i took my car to a local "tuner" shop and had them replace the tranny. When I went and picked it up it ran like shit, got out poped the hood hit the throttle and water came out the BOV!! Went back to the shop and freaked out on them. Since then I don't let anybody work on my car. Just take a step back for a couple of days think about what you can do, the answer will come and so will the desire to drive your car again.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the support, its just incredibly frustrating. Everytime I think Im close to getting it on the road, something like this happens. Thanks for all the advice, I am going to just chill out for awhile and think about what to do. Im considering just driving it anyway and keeping an eye on my fluids.

As for the inspection cover, I did pull it off. The fluid is coming out right where the tranny meets the block above the slave cylinder. It runs downs and drips off the slave cylinder and has a redish tint to it.

Heres the deal, I noticed the fluid had a redish tint on it. So I checked my oil on my oil dipstick, no redish tint. So I cracked the tranny drain plug and let a few drops land on a white plastic bag, the wierd things is that there was NO red tint to it at all. It looks like dirty watered down oil? Then I put a few drips of the actual stuff leaking out of the trans on the same white bag and compared. One had a clean redish tint (the leak) and the other had a dirty brown color with no tint (tranny drain plug).

So this is what Im so confused about? JNZ is saying that if it has a redish tint it has to be tranny fluid, but when I drained some the tranny fluid out, it had no red tint. I use GM syncromesh, which does have a red/orange tint to it, but for some reason it didnt when I drained some out? When they drained my tranny fluid for the rear main seal it was brand new fluid, so they reused it, I told them they could. But when I drained some it came out dirty and not red at all?? :confused:

Do you think the tranny seal could have went bad from sitting out of the car for so long?
 
Possibilty. With the seal sitting so long it could have hardened up.

I'm really scared to get my 3065 setup going with all the problems your having LOL
 
The car is now insured and regesitered. I should be getting it inspected this weekend, thats the plan. I currently have about 10 miles on the motor, just took it for short drives because of transmission leaking. I still havent found out what/why its leaking.

When I picked the car up from JNZ, the crankcase was filled about an inch past the full line on the dipstick. :notgood: Idk who the retard was that filled it? So I brought the car home and saw that the car was leaking from the bellhousing STILL, I called JNZ. They swear its not the rear main seal this time, thats its transmission fluid from the input shaft seal. When I picked the car up, I asked is anything leaking? They tell me, we wouldnt give you your car back if it was leaking. The FIRST time I warm it up, there is a leak :notgood: Im not sure which one it is but I thought to myself, maybe the same retard filled my transmission. So I leave the car level, pull the fill plug on the tranny, and out comes about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil. They over filled my transmission too :notgood:

So I called John Shep to see what his thoughs were on this matter. He says its NO WAY the input shaft seal. He says there is no way JNZ could have damaged that seal to make it leak, he also said there is no way the seal went bad from the tranny sitting for almost two years. He said that the transmission would leak from other places if its over filled, but not from inside the bell housing. He told me to put some dye in the tranny fluid and let it drip and see if it shows up under the black light, then Ill def. know its the tranny.

I never had a bad experience with JNZ before, but this time was ridiculous.
 
They tell me, we wouldnt give you your car back if it was leaking.

I hope you called them out on this one. If I remember right this is the second time you took it there. After all the time and effort you put in you deserve to get it running right.
 
I got the bumper on the car, Its not fitting like I would like it to, but its good enough to get it inspected. I should be getting it inspected tommorrow.

My buddy came over who was a mechanic for years and took a look at my leak. He said by where its coming from he thinks its the rear main seal, not the transmission. He said it would be leaking out of the bottom of the bellhousing if it was coming from the transmission, not out of the corner above the slave cylinder where the tranny meats the block. He also smelled the fluid and said its oil, not tranny fluid. So Im going to wait till I have some more cash and take it back to JNZtuning and have them take a look at it. They already told me if its oil they will fix it free of charge. If its the tranny, I have to pay for it.

Besides those problems, I have 12 miles on the motor :thumb:
 
Awesome build man! Sorry to hear about your problems, I just finished my 6bolt swap and also have a leak but mines near the front cover area. One question for you, how the hell did you get your timing cover on in the car? I'm having a hell of a time getting mine off in the car. I just noticed your from the Allentown area, I live 10 mins from Rt. 78 near the kutztown area.
 
Awesome build man! Sorry to hear about your problems, I just finished my 6bolt swap and also have a leak but mines near the front cover area. One question for you, how the hell did you get your timing cover on in the car? I'm having a hell of a time getting mine off in the car. I just noticed your from the Allentown area, I live 10 mins from Rt. 78 near the kutztown area.

Thanks..
You have to remove the engine mount studs to get the cover in and out of the car.
I been to kutztown a few times to party.
 
I removed the studs and seems like the water pump is to much in the way for it to come out.
I guess I just have to mess with it till it comes out. When you get your car running 100% I want to see that thing!
 
I removed the studs and seems like the water pump is to much in the way for it to come out.
I guess I just have to mess with it till it comes out. When you get your car running 100% I want to see that thing!

Sounds good to me, keep an eye on this thread, I update it all the time.
Once I get that leak fixed and put another couple hundred miles on the motor. Its time for DSMlink and a tune.
 
I have a few questions I need some help with.

1) My A/F gauge reads constant rich, it didnt before all these upgrades. Im assuming its because of the larger fuel lines and filter. What do you guys think? Should I turn my AFPR down a bit from 43.5psi? I was thinking about turning it down till I get the gauge to bounce around like it used to at idle. It reads constant rich all the time.

2) I installed my EGT probe in the exhuast side of the turbo a long time ago. I now realize that was the wrong thing to do, I listened to my friend when I shouldnt have. Im getting really high EGT's while normal driving. Close to 1400-1500*F when Im not even boosting or shifting beyond 4000rpms. Any insite on this? Im assuming the high EGT's are from the collection of all the exhaust gases combined in such a small area? I want to eventually move the probe to where it should be, but then Im going to have a hole in my turbo. Could I plug it with a bolt or weld it shut?
 
Is it normal to smell gas in your oil while breaking in a motor? If I pull my dipstick and smell it, it smells like gas. I have about 25 miles on the motor.

I know Im running a bit rich, according to my A/F gauge. But I cant be running that rich because my exhuast isnt coming out black and there isnt black sludge all over my bumper like I have seen other cars have that were running really rich.

Besides that, I found out my alternator is bad. My car died on the way to the inspection station, with a brand new battery in it. My e-brake light and my battery light are lit up while the car is running.
 
Don't you love those little surprises? I had to replace a few unexpected things when I got finished with the swap. I'm still dealing with a few little issues.

As far as the gas in oil problem: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102257&highlight=gas+oil

Steve,
I just cant seem to get away from you (jk), your like my new and only internet friend ROFL

Anyway, that thread didnt seem to help me too much? Pretty much what it said was that if you smell gas in your oil its your 02 sensor :confused:
That doesnt make much sense to me?? How can your 02 sensor make your oil smell like gas? The only logical thing I could think of was that the rings havent seated completely yet and Im running rich, which is allowing for fuel to pass the rings and enter my oil. Thanks for the input :thumb:
 
Is it normal to smell gas in your oil while breaking in a motor? If I pull my dipstick and smell it, it smells like gas. I have about 25 miles on the motor.

I know Im running a bit rich, according to my A/F gauge. But I cant be running that rich because my exhuast isnt coming out black and there isnt black sludge all over my bumper like I have seen other cars have that were running really rich.

Besides that, I found out my alternator is bad. My car died on the way to the inspection station, with a brand new battery in it. My e-brake light and my battery light are lit up while the car is running.

If you started your engine for the first time and your wideband reads 10.0 and then drive it like that for 25 miles then your oil will have lot of gas mixed into it. This will cause your piston rings to not seat properly and in turn you'll get bad blow-by on your rings. I also hope your a/f gauge is a wideband.
 
If you started your engine for the first time and your wideband reads 10.0 and then drive it like that for 25 miles then your oil will have lot of gas mixed into it. This will cause your piston rings to not seat properly and in turn you'll get bad blow-by on your rings. I also hope your a/f gauge is a wideband.

No my A/F is not a wideband.

I started the car with ND 30W oil and broke it in by reving the motor for 25 mins like I was told to by the machine shop. That was SUPPOSE to seat the rings according to JAM. Then I drained the ND oil and put reg non synthetic in and drove it for 25 miles so far.
 
You need to get rid of that narrow band sensor and invest on a wideband.

By reading your last post, it seems like you might have started your car for the first time rich and drove it rich for 25 miles. Am I wrong? You should not have started that motor until you had all supporting mods and gauges installed.
 
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