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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

It started right up, sounded great. I have the first 5 mins on video.
I have 3 leaks, one coolant hose, my oil pressure sender, and my REAR MAIN SEAL :notgood:

But on a positive note, IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!

Time for bed, Ill update more tommorrow when Im not beat...

:dsm:
 
Spoolin98 said:
IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

It started right up, sounded great. I have the first 5 mins on video.
I have 3 leaks, one coolant hose, my oil pressure sender, and my REAR MAIN SEAL :notgood:

But on a positive note, IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!

Time for bed, Ill update more tommorrow when Im not beat...

:dsm:
Click to expand...

Congratulations!!!


Now post up that video :thumb:
 
Spoolin98 said:
IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

It started right up, sounded great. I have the first 5 mins on video.
I have 3 leaks, one coolant hose, my oil pressure sender, and my REAR MAIN SEAL :notgood:

But on a positive note, IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!

Time for bed, Ill update more tommorrow when Im not beat...

:dsm:
Click to expand...

Awesome job man, I'm very happy for you. Goodluck with those leaks and the break in. Post up that video.

Bill
 
Thanks guys! Ill post the video asap. It sucks I have to pull the tranny, but oh well, atleast it started.

The top ended sounded kinda loud, like everything was stiff, is this normal with all new valvetrain? With stiffer springs? It sounded loud, but now in a bad way. Everything seemed fine.

As for the rear main seal, my friend told me that he installed his with RTV, is this common? His didnt leak.
 
Your valvetrain is going clack away pretty loudly for a little while. Once you get it out on the road and get the RPMs up a few times, the valvetrain noise will go away... Provided everything is ok... :p
 
Spoolin 98 I gotta give you props man thats the cleanest looking swap i've seen. I'm in the middle of a swap with my 95 tsi. but man I wish mine could look like yours.. CLEEEAN!
 
Why the hell would your rear main seal be leaking? Thats bullshit, I'm staying the hell away from JAM after reading this thread.
 
Nicks2319 said:
Why the hell would your rear main seal be leaking? Thats bullshit, I'm staying the hell away from JAM after reading this thread.
Click to expand...

As much as I would love to blame JAM for this one, its actually my fault. I installed the rear main seal. Apparently, according to my two friends, you should put RTV on the seal before installing it, which I didnt. :notgood: But bc of the other problems I had with this JAM block and the problems I had with JAM, I wouldnt ever buy from them again.

Im not too concerned about it, all I care about is that the car started. After having that car ripped apart the way I did, I was expecting problems.
 
Congrats on the start up. Like was said, the top end noise should quieten down abit once all the lifters get pumped up properly, etc. As for the rear main seal leaking, when you pull the old one out make sure to check for damage to the seal or the sealing surface in the block itself. I have never had to use RTV on any block seals & have never had any leaks. The seals weren't designed to need RTV & shouldn't need it when installed properly.
 
daren_p said:
Congrats on the start up. Like was said, the top end noise should quieten down abit once all the lifters get pumped up properly, etc. As for the rear main seal leaking, when you pull the old one out make sure to check for damage to the seal or the sealing surface in the block itself. I have never had to use RTV on any block seals & have never had any leaks. The seals weren't designed to need RTV & shouldn't need it when installed properly.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Thats what I thought too. The manual and other things I read mention nothing about using RTV. I checked the surface of the piece that bolts to the block, it seamed fine, so did the inside where the main seal sits. Ill post pictures when I get it out.
One thing I remember is that In the hanynes manual it mentioned that the rear main seal should have a hole in it, which should be installed facing downward, but mine didnt have it? Neither did the seal that I pulled off the motor.
 
:thumb: Sooooo beautiful. Its taken a couple days for me to read this thread (I'm a little slow). And its scary to find out that its not over!! What will come next? I can't wait - this is the best book I've ever read. :D

I wish I could help, but all I can do is subscribe and watch (sorry). That and bookmark this as a guide (complete with links to other guides) for when I pull mine to rebuild. Thanks for the inspirations!
 
da_reeseboy said:
:thumb: Sooooo beautiful. Its taken a couple days for me to read this thread (I'm a little slow). And its scary to find out that its not over!! What will come next? I can't wait - this is the best book I've ever read. :D

I wish I could help, but all I can do is subscribe and watch (sorry). That and bookmark this as a guide (complete with links to other guides) for when I pull mine to rebuild. Thanks for the inspirations!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments! They are much appreciated :thumb:

Well my next plans are to get this rear main seal fixed, then get this thing on the road and post some videos!

What do you guys think about this?
I only did the first half of the break in, then I shut the motor down because of the leaks. Should I just fix the coolant leak and start the car and finish the initial break in with the oil leaks as is? Thats what I think im going to do, any opinions?

Then I can just drain all the oil and the next time I fire it up it will be ready to put on the road. It just makes more sense to me to do it this way, esp since that damn oil pan has to come off AGAIN! As long as it has enough oil in it, I see no harm in finishing the break in, another 10 mins of revving the motor with the ND oil in it will finish the break in. Then I can start doing the rear main seal.

As for when I had the car running...
It wanted to stall, badly. But I think thats bc the TPS was reading 2% and the BISS isnt adjusted
My EGTs looked great, so did all my temps and pressures.
I did not get any CEL's, atleast not yet anyway
And when the car was running, I was logging the timing, so that answers my ? about that
 
Well I started the eclipse for the second time yesterday and finished the break in period with the ND oil. I also got it idling PERFECT, right at 750. Its running great and sounds great! I have a new oil leak, the oil return line, figures!

The rear main seal is still leaking, atleast I think so? Its weird, the oil doesnt come out at the bottom of the tranny where the flywheel protection plate bolts up. It comes out at the top of the plate through a tiny hole right where the oil pan meets the rear main seal. So my next step is to run the car with that plate off and see where the oil is coming from. Hopefully its coming from the oil pan, that would be sweet. The leak wasnt as bad this time as it was the first time i ran the motor.

I still have to fix the pressure sender leak, the coolant leak is fixed.

I drained the oil and changed the oil filter. I put in 20w-50, we'll see how the car runs with that in it. Ill keep you guys posted :thumb:
 
Well I started the car again last night with the 20w-50 in it after I removed the flywheel plate. The leak is def. coming from the rear main seal, not the oil pan. Everytime I start the car, the leak seams to be getting amaller and smaller, so Im going to put it through a couple more heat cycles before I pull the tranny. Maybe the seal will swell and seal itself? That would be sweet, but most likely it wont.

I know your supposed to retorque the head after you put it through its first heat cycle, but are you supposed to retorque it right after you shut it off while the car is still hot? Or can you retorque it while its cold?

Thanks again everyone for you help :thumb:
 
I was talking to my friend who was a mechanic for awhile and he is telling me to just drive the car as is, with the rear main seal leaking. He said worst case scenario I oil soak the clutch and have to replace it. He thinks driving it might help swell the the seal and help it stop leaking. What do you guys think about this? Should I drive the car as is?

Im worried that the leak will get worse while im driving the car and I wont know it because im in the car. I dont plan on shifting past 3500-4000 rpms for the first 500 miles. Im assuming that with higher oil pressure from higher rpms that more oil will leak out. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Im just looking for some advice on what to do. Right now driving it sounds really good, I def. dont feel like pulling the tranny right now :notgood:

Anyone help with my question from the last post?
 
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