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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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I wouldn't go that high. You don't wanna overtorque em. Following proper torque specs is a wise thing to do.
 
Loco4Life said:
I wouldn't go that high. You don't wanna overtorque em. Following proper torque specs is a wise thing to do.
Click to expand...

Yeah I found that out the hard way, I have broken one too many bolts/studs. Well I guess 80 ft lbs is what Ill torque it to. Like I said, I just read of others who had ARP's with ARP lube torquing above 80 ft lbs. Thanks
 
Ok guys Im running into another problem.
When I set the tension on my timing belt, I tightened the tensioner pully until I could move the grenade pin in and out freely. I read somewhere on here that if you can remove the pin easily and stick it back in easily the tension is set correctly. Its too hard to fit a drill bit in there to read the distance between the tensioner and the arm. So I set the tension, rotated the motor, waited 10-15 mins and checked the tension, it was in the same spot. So I started the motor and everything has been fine.

Well I pulled everything back out to put the timing belt cover on and I decided to check the tension again after running the motor several times. Well this time the rod coming out of the tensioner was pushed all the way in. I thought over time the tensioner rod would possibly push out more, but it actually pushed in more. The pin doesnt fit in anymore and the pulley arm is sitting right on top of the tensioner. Whats going on here?

Is this normal? Or do I have a bad tensioner?


Should the tensioner pulley holes be at 7 & 4 or 11 & 2? I read both on here.
 
Spoolin98 said:
Ok guys Im running into another problem.
When I set the tension on my timing belt, I tightened the tensioner pully until I could move the grenade pin in and out freely. I read somewhere on here that if you can remove the pin easily and stick it back in easily the tension is set correctly. Its too hard to fit a drill bit in there to read the distance between the tensioner and the arm. So I set the tension, rotated the motor, waited 10-15 mins and checked the tension, it was in the same spot. So I started the motor and everything has been fine.

Well I pulled everything back out to put the timing belt cover on and I decided to check the tension again after running the motor several times. Well this time the rod coming out of the tensioner was pushed all the way in. I thought over time the tensioner rod would possibly push out more, but it actually pushed in more. The pin doesnt fit in anymore and the pulley arm is sitting right on top of the tensioner. Whats going on here?

Is this normal? Or do I have a bad tensioner?


Should the tensioner pulley holes be at 7 & 4 or 11 & 2? I read both on here.
Click to expand...

:thumb:

Definatly doesn't sound right, but I highlighted the correct answer for you on the pulley.
 
The car is currently at JNZtuning getting the rear main seal replaced. I just didnt have the time or patience to pull the tranny at the moment, esp. since I thought I did the seal right the first time. Thats all I would need is to fix it myself and have it leak all over again.
Hopefully I will have this car on the road shortly. Here are some pics I thought I would share.
 

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Thanks guys, there will be MANY moe photos and videos to come once I get the car back and on the road. The funny thing is, the car doesnt look too bad for sitting in a garage for two years and never being cleaned. Its filthy, but its still looking good.

I saw a couple people staring while we were halling it on the road. Im just not sure if they were staring at my car or the Cummings turbo diesel we were towing it with. The truck is SICK! Ill get a picture of it when we tow it back.

Thanks again for the compliments, Ill keep you guys posted. The car was suppose to be ready for pickup today but they never called. So we will probably be picking it up on friday. :thumb:
 
I picked the car up from JNZtuning, the bill def. damaged my pocket. The service was good, I was expecting more, but oh well.

Apparently the reason my rear main seal was leaking was because I never installed a $2 oil seperator, which I had no idea I needed. So the rear main seal is fixed. They attempted to fix a very very slow leak on my oil return line and did nothing but make it worse. When I drove it onto the trailer it was leaking pretty bad. :notgood:

Also, they didnt have much to say about my wierd tensioner. Except they thought it was bad, as did I. So the car is now in my garage, I just have to fix the oil return, get insurance, registration, and inspection, and put the bumper on and its ready for the road.

Just driving it onto the trailer felt great. The exhaust sounded awesome and its very responsive. Ill keep you guys posted.
 
ANYONE WANT TO BUY MY CAR???

Im so irritated right now. I picked my car up from JNZtuning and brought it home. I started it up and its STILL leaking from inside the transmission! But this time I think its transmission fluid, not oil. It has a redish tint to it.

I called JNZ and they dont think its the rear main seal, they think its the input shaft seal on the tranny. It never leaked before! WTF, I just cant catch a break with this damn car.

Does anyone know if you can damage a input shaft seal while doing a rear main seal? I just dont know if its JNZ's fault or not???

BTW, its a shep tranny with less than 10K miles on it.
 
You have to take out the trans to do the rear main, so yes all the trans seals could have been damaged easily. I would think a shop to thier degree would not damage something as simple as that though. Sorry about your bad luck man, keep with it though!
 
Call Shep and tell him the situation. He'll have an idea of how easy/hard it is to damage it too.

Don't give up now, it's almost done and you'd hate yourself if you did. It's a clean ass car and it'll make up for the hardships soon enough ;)
 
Well since your car is Fwd it shouldn't that muhc of a pain in the ass, The seal for the input shaft is inside of the case. but then again it is taking the whole trans out again... I don't think you can damage the seal so easily, I might be wrong but the seal goes into the bell housing in front of the front input shaft bearing race, so in order for it to have been damaged is if the race is gone, and some put alot of force on it, or filings go into it and tore it apart which can also happen.
 
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