My 2g 6 Bolt Build

[DBordersX]

I'm running 10lbs on my Evo3 and I believe my MBC is all the way down.

 

[BREW]

I cant imagine it being much more than tweleve, if it even holds that much. It has been a while since I've messed around with interally gated turbos, but can't you adjust the armature to hold more boost if you needed it to?

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Couldn't you disconnect the actuator arm from the flapper door lever. Sorry I dont know exactly the right terms. I suggest this becasue I figured you are trying to run zero or the least amount of boost that you can while you break in the motor. Is this correct?

Bill

 

[Spoolin98]

Im trying to run 12lbs of boost only until I get DSMlink.

 

[Spoolin98]

The car is ALMOST ready to start...

I filled the transmission fluid, no leaks!
I filled the motor with oil and primed it, no leaks so far!
I primed my fuel system, set my FPR to 36-37psi, no leaks!

I also bled my clutch, installed my MBC, put my radiator and hoses in, installed the TB and intercooler pipes for good.

Now all I have to do is adjust my TPS and my CAS, hook up my TB cable, then prime the motor, do the timing belt, and fire it up. Ill keep you guys posted!

 

[Spoolin98]

Well according to my break in sheet, Im supposed to start the car and NOT let it idle. So I cant really set my base timing right away. So I plan on hooking up my datalogger and setting the CAM sensor with the car off, after I do the timing belt. But I dont know what I should set it to? Whats the stock degree?

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Well according to my break in sheet, Im supposed to start the car and NOT let it idle. So I cant really set my base timing right away. So I plan on hooking up my datalogger and setting the CAM sensor with the car off, after I do the timing belt. But I dont know what I should set it to? Whats the stock degree?

I believe base ignition timing should be 5* BTDC.

Bill

 

[snowborder714]

I believe base ignition timing should be 5* BTDC.

Bill

I second that.

 

[Spoolin98]

Thats what I thought it was too, but I just wanted to make sure...

So now all I need is a day off to get this thing running.

 

[Nicks2319]

Thats what I thought it was too, but I just wanted to make sure...

So now all I need is a day off to get this thing running.

Good luck! I did the same thing on first start... started it, let it run at about 3 grand for 20-30 minutes, drained and filled the oil, then brought it down to idle and set the timing. Then I took it out for some pulls.

(Yes, I did the 'break it in hard' technique... seemed to work great)

 

[Spoolin98]

Good luck! I did the same thing on first start... started it, let it run at about 3 grand for 20-30 minutes, drained and filled the oil, then brought it down to idle and set the timing. Then I took it out for some pulls.

(Yes, I did the 'break it in hard' technique... seemed to work great)

Thanks for the inspiration

 

[Spoolin98]

I just want to make sure, I set my fuel pressure to 36.6psi since its a 1g motor in a 2g. Is that correct? Or should I have it set at 43.5 like my 2g motor?

 

[Nicks2319]

I just want to make sure, I set my fuel pressure to 36.6psi since its a 1g motor in a 2g. Is that correct? Or should I have it set at 43.5 like my 2g motor?

Mines at 43.5... I never really thought about that, but I'm pretty sure that even though its 6bolt swapped, it's still 43.5.

 

[Spoolin98]

Mines at 43.5... I never really thought about that, but I'm pretty sure that even though its 6bolt swapped, it's still 43.5.

Hmmm...can anyone verify which fuel pressure I should set my FPR at?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

the ECU is what controls everything, so if it's a 2g ecu, you have to set it at 43.5 psi

 

[Spoolin98]

the ECU is what controls everything, so if it's a 2g ecu, you have to set it at 43.5 psi

After setting it to 36psi and thought about it, I figured it should be at 43.5, but I just wanted to make sure. Well Ill have to fix that, no bggie...thanks guys

 

[TSG59_Steve]

I don't think I saw anyone post this but you still have to swap your plug wires regardless of the coilpack. Go ahead and try to start it like that if you want but if it cranks and sounds like it's missing, you know where to check

-Steve

 

[kmoore]

I just want to add on the topic of remote mounting your oil pressure sending unit. First off, DO IT! It scared the living hell out of me when I saw my gauge read 0. Even though my stock gauge in the cluster was still reading it just scared me. Its not so much it "shaking loose" its more about the vibration of the engine killing the actual sending unit. Those sending units don't just pop off they really just die from the vibration. Here is a couple of links that may help (atleast they helped me):

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255436
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185873
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925228+4294923437+4294846127+115&autoview=sku

Hope that helps and good luck with the build. Looks great so far

 

[Spoolin98]

kmoore, thanks for the heads up on the sending unit. Ill look more into it once the car is running and probably relocate it.

As for swapping the plug wires, why? That just doesnt make sense to me if Im using the same coilpack as I was with the 7 bolt. Everything is exactly the same, why would I need to swap plug wires?

blcknspo0ln & TSG59_Steve, do you have experience with this? are either of you using the 2g coilpack?

 

[Spoolin98]

blcknspo0ln & TSG59_Steve

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268761

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

I just want to add on the topic of remote mounting your oil pressure sending unit. First off, DO IT! It scared the living hell out of me when I saw my gauge read 0. Even though my stock gauge in the cluster was still reading it just scared me. Its not so much it "shaking loose" its more about the vibration of the engine killing the actual sending unit. Those sending units don't just pop off they really just die from the vibration. Here is a couple of links that may help (atleast they helped me):

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255436
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185873
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925228+4294923437+4294846127+115&autoview=sku

Hope that helps and good luck with the build. Looks great so far

Not to hijack the thread but Kmoore do you have any pics of your sending unit installed and lines coming from the filter housing? I'm in the process of installing mine and I think I might opt for the remote mounting option too.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Ah shit, nevermind I clicked on the links.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

blcknspo0ln & TSG59_Steve

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268761

Correct,
as bruce said, it is your ecu/CAS styling that will determine if you need to swap your wires or not. I was just ASSuming that you changed otherwise.

 

[Spoolin98]

I have another problem/question, when I prime my fuel system, my electronic fuel pressure gauge is reading differently than the one on the FPR.

The electronic sender is before the fuel rail, the other gauge is on the FPR after the rail. The electronic gauge reads increments of 2psi, so its more accurate than the FPR gauge because that one reads incriments of 5psi.

The electronic gauge is reading 43.5psi while the FPR guage is only reading 40psi. Why is there a difference? Which one is more accurate? Which one should I go by?

 

[Spoolin98]

Just thought I would post some pictures of the ALMOST complete build...