My 2g 6 Bolt Build

[Spoolin98]

I finished mounting my oil cooler and I think it looks great. It sits right in the driver side opening of the bumper. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[Spoolin98]

I also finished up my fuel feed line, both axles and suspension are in, and I figured out where Im mounting my boost controller. Will heat play a roll in how well the MBC works? Because Im mounting it off a valve cover bolt, I do have a exhaust manifold heat shield. I have seen others mount it there, just not sure if they had any problems with it.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Hi,

Firstoff, everything looks great.

Will heat play a roll in how well the MBC works? Because Im mounting it off a valve cover bolt, I do have a exhaust manifold heat shield. I have seen others mount it there, just not sure if they had any problems with it.

I would worry about it getting too hot, like I'm sure it would be fine, but if it gets too hot it could theoretically soften up the spring in the MBC and cause it not to be as stiff and cause you to run less boost. Why not just mount it by the radiator and then not have to worry about it. The way you have it setup, you also might burn your hand trying to adjust it at the track and that would obviously suck, . I have no previous experience with a MBC setup like this, but just figured I would make a suggestion.

Bill

 

[DoyoFCT]

Yea im going to agree that the location may cause some issues. either for when you want to adjust it or could theoretically damage it, i dunno how heat resistant the internals of that controller are. I would mount it where the old Boost solenoid was located, might not be as pretty or eye catching, but more functional maybe?

Btw I love how the oil cooler turned out. I'm considering a setup very similar which core is that? it fits nice.

 

[Spoolin98]

Thanks for the advice guys, and the compliments. Im probably going to move the MBC.

DoyoFCT, the cooler is an Earls cooler, part number 21908 from anplumbing.com

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

About how far off are you on this build, i would like to come down the day to turn it over. I live sown in Reading, Pa. Are you on lvdsm.com by any chance?

James

 

[Spoolin98]

About how far off are you on this build, i would like to come down the day to turn it over. I live sown in Reading, Pa. Are you on lvdsm.com by any chance?

James

Well, the list of things is getting shorter by the day, are you handy with DSM's? If so an extra hand on the day I fire it up is more than welcome. Im hoping on having it running by the eng of august or beginning of september. I have a few problems I need to figure out first, which I will be posting shortly.

I am a member on lvdsm but never go on the site.

 

[Spoolin98]

I just wanted to post my solution to my coil pack problem. I figured out a way to mount my 2G coilpacks in the same spot as the 1G coilpacks go on a 1G intake manifold.

It worked out great for me, maybe this will help some other guys trying to figure out what to do with their coilpack. My intentions were to use my 2G coilpacks for 2 reasons. 1, because I know they work and 2, because then I dont have to swap plug wires or anything. This is just what Im assuming, is it correct? If I use my 2g coilpack I should be able to keep the plug wires in the same order as I had them with my 7 bolt?

My 2g coil pack, looking at it from straight on and from left to right, it goes 4 1 2 3. So I hooked up the wires in that order to each cylinder. Anyone see a reason why this wouldnt be ok?

Magnus's write up says you use the 1g coilpack with a complete 1g swap, but Im assuming thats because then you will have a place to mount the coilpacks since they are different on a 2g. Correct me if Im wrong...

Anyway, what I did was cut the 1g coilpack bracket in half and only used the front part that mounts to the IM and made support brackets for the back of the coilpacks. If your wondering, the 2g coilpacks wont bolt directly into the 1g bracket, this must be done to make them fit in it. Here are some pictures.

On a side note, Im having a problem figuring out how to and where to mount my FPR, any ideas? Pictures would be helpful.

 

[Spoolin98]

Ok guys, Im have two problems that I need some advice with.

1. I have no idea how to and where to mount my FPR, every way I try to mount it, the SS fuel line just wont line up. Any Ideas?? Pictures would help.

2. I had a bung welded into the oil pan for my oil temp sender before putting the motor in so I had no idea where the bung would actually be once the motor was in. So now that the motor is in, the sender is extremely close to the subframe. I have prothane mounts in the car, but I know the motor is still going to flex from the torque and Im afraid the sender is going to hit the subframe and break or short something out.

Im not sure what would happen if a sender hits the frame, would it cause any damage to the guage or electrical system? I dont know enough about electronics.

Now I have thought about this and I dont have many choices. I can either notch the subframe out so when it does move it doenst hit or I can drop the oil pan. If I drop the pan I have to buy another bung, weld closed the old bung, and put the new one somewhere else. So...what do you guys think? Should I just cut the subframe? The part I would be notching is right at the bottom of where the driver side lower control arm bushing is. Im afraid if I notch the subframe, its going to weaken the subframe and cause me more problems. Any Ideas or input is welcome.

 

[brandonzero0]

You have done a very nice job indeed.

 

[BREW]

Regarding the relocation of the fuel pressure regulator.

What I did was remove the the solenoids to the right of the of the brake fluid resevior and mounted the the fluid resevoir in place of the solenoids. Freeing up the space previously vacated by the resevoir is where I chose to mount the fuel pressure regulator. Obviously if you aren't removing the emmisions you won't be able to use this method, but it has worked well for me.

Brew

 

[Spoolin98]

You have done a very nice job indeed.

THANKS!


Guys, Any ideas on the FPR or temp sender?

 

[Spoolin98]

Regarding the relocation of the fuel pressure regulator.

What I did was remove the the solenoids to the right of the of the brake fluid resevior and mounted the the fluid resevoir in place of the solenoids. Freeing up the space previously vacated by the resevoir is where I chose to mount the fuel pressure regulator. Obviously if you aren't removing the emmisions you won't be able to use this method, but it has worked well for me.

Brew

I did remove emissions, but I didnt remove anything that had a plug so I wouldnt get a CEL. That is a really good idea, Im going to look into doing it. I didnt feel like draining the brake fluid, but If I have to I will.

 

[BREW]

You may have to drain the fluid from one of the hoses that connect to the resevoir. I remember that when I relocated mine the fluid in the system was drained prior to, as I was upgrading the brakes and lines at the same time. The only snag I found was the fuel return line. I'm not sure if you are running a braided return line back to the tank, if so you'll have no problem at all. If you are using the stock hard line, use a similar size to the stock rubber fuel hose to connect to the return line fitting on the fpr and the hard line. It's a bi*** fitting the stock size rubber line over the -6an return fitting on the fpr but if you work it on there it will fit. It will give you piece of mind knowing that you won't have to worry about the connection between a larger than stock fuel line and smaller hard line leaking. Oh, and im sure you are aware, but make sure you use clamps for reassurance.


Brew

 

[Spoolin98]

You may have to drain the fluid from one of the hoses that connect to the resevoir. I remember that when I relocated mine the fluid in the system was drained prior to, as I was upgrading the brakes and lines at the same time. The only snag I found was the fuel return line. I'm not sure if you are running a braided return line back to the tank, if so you'll have no problem at all. If you are using the stock hard line, use a similar size to the stock rubber fuel hose to connect to the return line fitting on the fpr and the hard line. It's a bi*** fitting the stock size rubber line over the -6an return fitting on the fpr but if you work it on there it will fit. It will give you piece of mind knowing that you won't have to worry about the connection between a larger than stock fuel line and smaller hard line leaking. Oh, and im sure you are aware, but make sure you use clamps for reassurance.
Brew

Thanks for the heads up, Im going over on friday to mess the FPR, Ill post whatever solution I come up with.

 

[Spoolin98]

I ported my pressure relief valve, installed all my sensors into the oil housing and put the housing on the car. My oil feed line has a twist in it so I need to fix that before the exhaust goes on. I also installed my alt and power steering pump.

 

[Spoolin98]

This is the way I ended up mounting the FPR. I dont like it so eventually Im going to move it somewhere else. Hopefully the sharp bend of the line doesnt make it leak. Also, the return line needs to be changed to rubber like Brew said, I cant get the SS line to tighten down. Plus the gauge is sitting right up against the car.

 

[Spoolin98]

Hey guys, I need some help finding a Non-detergent 30w oil. I cant seem to find it made by any reputable oil companies. All I have found is Coastal (autozone ) and pepboys sells some. The break in procedure says to use a "good quality" ND 30W oil, do you think coastal is good enough? Its only going to be in the motor for about 30mins and not reved past 3500 rpms.

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Did you contact JAM to see what they reccomend or what they use?

Bill

 

[Spoolin98]

Did you contact JAM to see what they reccomend or what they use?

Bill

No, after all the problems I have had with there rude service and the problems I had with the block they built...I refuse to call them.

 

[turbodsm18]

No, after all the problems I have had with there rude service and the problems I had with the block they built...I refuse to call them.

Bad idea.......Even if you have had bad service from them. You need to find out what they want you to use. If something goes wrong in the motor, then you have nothing to be blamed for as you followed all there instructions.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Bad idea.......Even if you have had bad service from them. You need to find out what they want you to use. If something goes wrong in the motor, then you have nothing to be blamed for as you followed all there instructions.

Good advice there.

 

[Nicks2319]

With regards to your oil pressure gauge setup... alot of people mount the two sending units somewhere on the frame, and then install a line from the housing to the T, to insure that vibration does not cause both to rattle off the small oil tap. Just something to check into, I believe on the instructions that came with your Autometer gauge they mention this.

 

[Spoolin98]

As for calling JAM, Im not doing it. All they said was use a "good quality ND30W", I have it in writing. If they didnt put a brand, then they cant say anything. Besides that, I followed everything they sent me to a T so far. They dont want to talk to me the same way I dont want to talk to them, I told them how it is and they didnt like it very much.

As for mounting the senders somewhere else, thats a good idea. But if the stock sender doesnt "rattle" out then why would these? That doesnt make much sense to me.

 

[Spoolin98]

I have a question about the Evo III wastegate. The MBC I have allows you to turn it all the way down and run the spring in the wastegate. Which is what I plan on doing, Im going to run low boost for awhile. But I have no idea what boost the evo III wastgate is at? So if I turn the MBC all the way down, what boost SHOULD I be running? 12psi?