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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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I got my intake and support plate installed. I got it to fit way better this time than last time. Cutting the frame for the UICP made everything fit just the way its supposed to.

I also installed my oil catch can.
 

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I got it from JM Fab, its less than the dsmparts one and you done have to mount it somewhere, just ziptie it to something like I did.

Well those are the two most important things right there. It's not from DSMparts and it's cheaper :)

What's that SS line coming from? Is that your clutchline?

Edit: have you thought about relocating the fuse box to where the battery was?
 
Well those are the two most important things right there. It's not from DSMparts and it's cheaper :)

What's that SS line coming from? Is that your clutchline?

Edit: have you thought about relocating the fuse box to where the battery was?

True.

Yeah its the clutch line.

I thought about relocating it, but there is no point in moving it to where the battery was, its still in the engine bay then. Where its at right now, its not in the way of anything. If I relocate it, im moving it to the inside of the car.
 
Does anyone know what size fitting I need to use both the stock oil pressure sender and the aftermarket oil pressure sender at the same time?

Anyone have pictures or advice on a setup?

Would somthing like this work?

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=&dept=Aluminum

part number 991101 - use this off the oil housing
part number 991701 - connect this to 991101 and thread the senders into each end
 
The passanger side brake and axle are installed.

I ordered my oil cooler w/ fittings and the fittings I need to finish my fuel lines.

I also ordered the harness to install a 1g CAS in a 2g.

I attempted to take apart my alternator to clean the shell and failed MISERABLY. I thought it would be easy, its def. not easy. Im yet to come to a conclusion as to what Im going to do about it.

Its coming together slowly...but surely.
 
Where did you get your j-pipe for your 16g? My other question is where does the second line coming out of your catch can go. Is it just vented or is it going back into your intake pipe. BTW it looks great I could only hope for my engine bay to look half that clean.
 
Where did you get your j-pipe for your 16g? My other question is where does the second line coming out of your catch can go. Is it just vented or is it going back into your intake pipe. BTW it looks great I could only hope for my engine bay to look half that clean.

The J-pipe came w/ the FMIC kit from Dejon, if you call Im sure they will sell you just the J-pipe.

Correct, the second line goes back into the intake like its supposed to.

Thanks for the compliment!
 
OT: Why didn't you put the timing belt on when it was outside of the car? seems like more work, no?

I didnt put it on outside the car because according to the instructions given to me with the motor, I am supposed to prime the motor manually first and then put the belt on and start the car. This ensures the head and turbo get oil before start up.

I plan on priming it manually, putting the belt on and the accessories, then priming it again by turning it over, then start it.

According to JAM, this is how you should always prime a motor.

Yes it is more work, but its worth it to me.
 
I've never heard of that. Good to know :thumb:

You can also just pull the MPI relay and crank it a few times to build pressure. I didn't even prime my motor, as long as they pack the oil pump it should be fine. Mine started right up and had oil pressure right away.


Keep the pics coming!
 
You can also just pull the MPI relay and crank it a few times to build pressure. I didn't even prime my motor, as long as they pack the oil pump it should be fine. Mine started right up and had oil pressure right away.


Keep the pics coming!

I was specifically told that is the WORST and WRONG way to prime a motor.

Im sorry, but saying "as long as they pack the oil pump it should be fine" is wrong. There are a whole lot more moving parts in a motor that need to be lubricated before start up than just the oil pump. IMO, the way I was told makes the most sense and there is not better way to ensure that you motor is not being started dry. Think about all the parts that have no oil on them until the oil pressure builds up and oil gets through the entire motor. It will take several revolutions of cranking it over for oil to reach everywhere, meanwhile a lot of parts are rotating without lubrication.

If you dont believe me, next time your timing belt is off, as long as you dont have Balance Shafts, spin the oil pump with an impact gun with the valve cover off. I did it with my talon, watch how many revolutions and how long it takes for the oil to reach the head. You will be surprised, it takes longer than you think.

Look at post #92 of page 4 in this thread. Those are the exact directions given to me with my motor.

"DO NOT FALSE START OR FALSE CRANK your engine to prime, this will not work and will cause serious damage to engine components. Prime the motor manually with the timing belt off by spinning the oil pump with a impact gun. This will ensure the motor is not started dry. Remove the valve cover while priming to make sure the oil has reached the top of the engine." ~JAM

I also left the oil return line on my turbo disconnected so I can see oil drain out of it.
 
Everything looks good.

One Thing I would suggest is to Invest in some T-bolt Clamps or else you will be blowing off your pipes, especially that one connection after the J-pipe that is at an angle.
 
I always prime my motors with an electric drill on the engine stand shortly before I put the timing belt on.

You'd have to be MIGHTY fast at installing T-belts for it to make a difference whether you prime it in the car or on the stand. :D
 
I always prime my motors with an electric drill on the engine stand shortly before I put the timing belt on.

You'd have to be MIGHTY fast at installing T-belts for it to make a difference whether you prime it in the car or on the stand. :D

True, but if I primed it on the stand and put the belt on and then didnt start it for a month or more, there was no real point in priming it.

If I prime it and put the belt on and start it all within a couple hours, then there is a point in priming it manually.
 
Glad to see someone else taking the time to put the belt on in the car. I am planning on doing the same thing to prime my motor when it is ready to go.
 
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