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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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I think he's saying you won't be able to take the cover off/in because it goes around the motor mount and there's not much room b/w the motor and frame. He's wrong though, you can and without breaking it. I've said it once already in the thread, take it out and put it in through the bottom. Use a jack with a towel under the oil pan to raise and lower the engine as necessary. Be gentle and take your time, you'll be golden. While I do like his idea of just cutting everything out above the mount for ease, I rather be safe (less space to have something fall in) then sorry.

Thanks, Im glad to hear that
 
Ahh. Well I went by just looking at it. And I would guess you could lift the motor up with a jack I prefer not to. But yes their is chance for something to get in their.

That is strange about the inserts. You got me on that one then. If in doubt read the insturctions. Or call Energy suspension up and ask them about it. I've only used Energy Suspension components on actual suspension parts on a 2G. I've also installed the full prothane suspension parts before. IMO. Prothane is easier to install and work with. Lower control arm bushings only 2 pieces as to energy's 3 pieces. Upper A arm busings are 2 pieces as to Energy's 1 piece PITA to install bushing. I also haven't installed motor mounts on a 2G yet. I'm guessing their is 2 mounts that get inserts where the 1G only has one mount that gets an insert.
 
I need help ASAP. I just put the transmission on the block, only 3 of the 4 transmission bolts fit. There is one in the rear of the transmission that I cant figure out, the bolt bottoms out? Three bolts fit in from the passanger side to the driver, one looks like it bolts in from the driver side to the passanger but it bottoms out?
 
I'm assuming you are talking about the rear bottom bolt. It's a long skinny bolt that will bolt from the motor side of the tranny. Hope that helps you out.

By Skinny I mean the other 3 are I think 12mm bolts and the other bolt is I think 8mm. I'm talking about the actual bolt size and not the head of the bolt size.
 
I'm assuming you are talking about the rear bottom bolt. It's a long skinny bolt that will bolt from the motor side of the tranny. Hope that helps you out.

By Skinny I mean the other 3 are I think 12mm bolts and the other bolt is I think 8mm. I'm talking about the actual bolt size and not the head of the bolt size.

What I was about to say :thumb:

As for the urthane torque mounts, thats the way their supposed to be. Lets see if I get this the right way around since my car isn't here, the large "washers" are to be used on the front (close to rad) side, while the rear torque mount doesn't require any "washers" to hold it properly in place.
 
Make sure you grease the TOB where it slides on the shaft, and grease the pivot ball when the fork rests on it.
 
THE MOTOR IS IN!!!

Well I didnt grease the TOB or the pivot ball, too late for that! Ooops

As for the motor mounts, I used the prothane ones without the washers.

I has four transmision bolts, all 12mm bolts. I looked ay my buddys 1g while I was doing it and he has a 10mm one going from the motor side into the tranny, not a 12mm. So I tried his and it fit. So now I know what I need, Just that bolt. The 2g 7bolt uses 4 12mm bolts to hold the tranny on and the 6 bolt uses 3 12mm(i think) and 1 10mm. But anyways, the motor is in, Thanks for your help guys.

Ill take pictures soon, I forgot my camera when I went to work on it :notgood:
 
So wait... did you pull it up from the bottom or put it in through the top?

Anyways... my first reaction: Oh my god! Looks freaking amazing man, excellent work. I bet you're way excited. I know I was when I was getting that close. Now when I look back at it I can't believe how much I went through, LOL. Great job man. Can't wait to see a vid of this beast in action.

Edit: what the hell is that black thing connected to the CAS stud and TB? Just a lifting point?

Editx2: From the looks of it you put it in through the top (sub frame looks like it hadn't been moved), how tight of a fit was that?

Editx3: So you're going to prime the engine now right? Then you'll do the timing? Hurry up and answer me back, LOL.

Editx4: You probably knew this already but that trick with getting the drill bit to adjust the tensioner, works wonders and makes the timing job a hell of a lot easier.

Editx5: Okay, last thing. Good call on taking the front bumper off. I should have done that.
 
So wait... did you pull it up from the bottom or put it in through the top?

Anyways... my first reaction: Oh my god! Looks freaking amazing man, excellent work. I bet you're way excited. I know I was when I was getting that close. Now when I look back at it I can't believe how much I went through, LOL. Great job man. Can't wait to see a vid of this beast in action.

Edit: what the hell is that black thing connected to the CAS stud and TB? Just a lifting point?

Editx2: From the looks of it you put it in through the top (sub frame looks like it hadn't been moved), how tight of a fit was that?

Editx3: So you're going to prime the engine now right? Then you'll do the timing? Hurry up and answer me back, LOL.

Editx4: You probably knew this already but that trick with getting the drill bit to adjust the tensioner, works wonders and makes the timing job a hell of a lot easier.

Editx5: Okay, last thing. Good call on taking the front bumper off. I should have done that.

Steve, Im glad to see your as pumped for this as I am!!! Thanks for the compliment, its much appreciated.

First off, I dropped the motor in from the top, it went in really really easy with the help of three friends. One lowering, one pushing down on the tranny, and two pushing up on the cam gear side. The motor went in tranny first (facing down) and slid right into place, way easier than I thought. We had it dropped in and bolted in place in 20mins.

Yes the black thing is a lifting point, its the lifting bracket off a 1g motor.

I have alot more to do before priming the motor. I have to finish up my intercooler, fuel lines, oil cooler and lines, wire harness and misc. things. Then ill prime it and set the timing. As for the drill bit, are you talking about to make sure I have the right tension? If so, what I did on my 1g worked well. I have the tensioner tool, I just put pressure on the auto tensioner until the pin slides in and out freely, then its tensioned correctly. Thats what I read anyway, and I havent had problems with the talon yet.

Lastly, I took the bumper off to install the FMIC, remove A/C, and install the oil cooler. I installed the FMIC last night with all the piping, it looks SICK. Ill post pictures soon.
 
Steve, Im glad to see your as pumped for this as I am!!! Thanks for the compliment, its much appreciated.

Lastly, I took the bumper off to install the FMIC, remove A/C, and install the oil cooler. I installed the FMIC last night with all the piping, it looks SICK. Ill post pictures soon.

Haha, definitely! But keep the font bumper off, it'll give you a lot more room when working in the bay, and keep it from getting scratched.

Can't wait to see the fmic!
 
Haha, definitely! But keep the font bumper off, it'll give you a lot more room when working in the bay, and keep it from getting scratched.

Can't wait to see the fmic!

I plan on it, I plan on keeping the bumper off until I make sure Im not blowing any IC pipes off. Ill post pictures of the FMIC tonight when I get off work, around 10:30.
 
I plan on it, I plan on keeping the bumper off until I make sure Im not blowing any IC pipes off. Ill post pictures of the FMIC tonight when I get off work, around 10:30.

You're a lot better at planning ahead then I am, LOL. I blew both sides of the IC piping off the first few times I was driving. Left me stranded the first time. Second time I had the tools with me :p
 
You're a lot better at planning ahead then I am, LOL. I blew both sides of the IC piping off the first few times I was driving. Left me stranded the first time. Second time I had the tools with me :p

Well when you take months into years to get things done it leaves you plenty of time to think about what you should do.
 
You know I read your first post and looked at what you were doing and noticed most of your list is the same for my AWD.

Then I see the most recent pictures and makes me wanna get off my butt to get my engine/tranny in.

I can appreciate the work it takes to get all that installed. Right on :thumb:
 
Where'd you get that j-pipe? It's excellent, such tight fitment. I had a lot of problems with my current one hitting my rad. fans. Anyway, looks great (as usual). Too bad you're not closer, we could have two bad ass 6 bolt Evo III 16g GST's cruisin' around :thumb:
 
You know I read your first post and looked at what you were doing and noticed most of your list is the same for my AWD.

Then I see the most recent pictures and makes me wanna get off my butt to get my engine/tranny in.

I can appreciate the work it takes to get all that installed. Right on :thumb:

Thanks, its very rewarding to see it all come together. Like you said, get off your butt and get moving!
 
Where'd you get that j-pipe? It's excellent, such tight fitment. I had a lot of problems with my current one hitting my rad. fans. Anyway, looks great (as usual). Too bad you're not closer, we could have two bad ass 6 bolt Evo III 16g GST's cruisin' around :thumb:

I would love to go cruisin with you, your car is sweet, i love black. Thanks for the compliment (as usual). The J-pipe came with the FMIC kit, call Dejon, im sure he will sell you just the Jpipe.
 
Thats the radio interference thing. It helps the radio have less static. Id keep it connected.
 
I need some help here guys. Im confused as to what I need and dont need off the 2 manifold. Here are some pictures.

According to Magnus I need a 1g coil pack and bracket, why cant I use mine off my 2g?
It also says to relocate power transistor mount, what is that? The second picture?
 

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