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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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This is a great thread! I believe my 7 bolt is taking a walk so I will be doing all of this very soon myself. Great info! I'm in the same boat with the ACT Clutch / Flywheel myself, i'll be able to reuse the clutch but I'm going to need to buy a new flywheel.
 
i whould like to know everybodys thoughts on the block off plate as well , i might do the same mod but im getting dsmlink
 
This is a great thread! I believe my 7 bolt is taking a walk so I will be doing all of this very soon myself. Great info! I'm in the same boat with the ACT Clutch / Flywheel myself, i'll be able to reuse the clutch but I'm going to need to buy a new flywheel.

Thanks, the compliments are much appreciated. Stay tuned for lots more to come.
 
Thanks Guys!

Im still far from done, but I appreciate the verbal support!

I talked to JNZtuning, I should have my studs sometime this week. My plans are to get the flywheel, clutch, and transmission on the motor next monday. Possibly even drop the sucker in. Depends on how things go. Once thats done there are TONS of things for me to do.

I still have to do all that and:
-finish my fuel lines and mount my FPR
-put the suspension and axles back in the car
-finish mounting my FMIC and hook up all the pipes
-figure out the wiring harness
-install my MBC
-install my oil catch can
-and many more misc. things
 
It's the little things that get ya. I'm still piecing my interior back together.
 
Where did you buy your AN Fuel Lines / Performance Filter? I want to do that same thing.

Sorry to butt in for the OP, but I was looking at these pages right now and figured that I would try to help you out.

For the plumbing, this website is pretty sweet: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

And it looks like he followed these directions along with some modifications on this website also for 2g's (2g addendum found in FAQ), you have probably seen this write up: http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html

Bill
 
I got my TB put back together after a long manhunt to find bolts that were slightly longer to compensate for the thickness of the block-off plate.

Does anyone know if the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel have flat washers on them? I know they have lock washers on them, because thats how they came off the car, but should it also have a flat washer on it?
 
I have a few more questions.

Why does the energy suspension inserts come with a metal washer? Where exactly does the washer go?

The prothane inserts dont come with a washer?

Where does this metal plate go? Is it the plate that protects the bottom of the flywheel?
 

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I modified my galant vr-4 timing belt cover to fit my motor mount tonight. Only took a few minutes, but I wanted to post it to show others what you need to cut to make it fit. Here are a few pictures.
 

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I think the metal plates are just to ensure the inserts don't come out. I have the Prothane's and never had any issues.

One comment about your timing cover. Remember you are putting this on with the motor out of the car atm. But it might not be so easy to remove with the motor in the car. Their is very little room between the timing cover and the frame rail. I don't think you would be able to remove that without bending it quit a bit and maybe end up cranking or breaking it if you had to remove it in the future in the car. I thought about doing that very thing on the last 6 bolt in a 2G I did. I decided to just cut out the top of the mount so I could drop the cover in the future easily. With the top timing cover installed their still isn't much gap their. Just wanted to give you some food for thought.

Also make sure you use the 2G trans backing plate. The 1G plate won't completely cover up the trans and the starter bolt holes are just a hair off on the 1G plate. I know this cause I had to use the 1G plate. Worked but required a little drilling and I believe it's the front of the tranny that isn't exposed but their is a very tiny air gap their.
 
I think the metal plates are just to ensure the inserts don't come out. I have the Prothane's and never had any issues.

One comment about your timing cover. Remember you are putting this on with the motor out of the car atm. But it might not be so easy to remove with the motor in the car. Their is very little room between the timing cover and the frame rail. I don't think you would be able to remove that without bending it quit a bit and maybe end up cranking or breaking it if you had to remove it in the future in the car. I thought about doing that very thing on the last 6 bolt in a 2G I did. I decided to just cut out the top of the mount so I could drop the cover in the future easily. With the top timing cover installed their still isn't much gap their. Just wanted to give you some food for thought.

Also make sure you use the 2G trans backing plate. The 1G plate won't completely cover up the trans and the starter bolt holes are just a hair off on the 1G plate. I know this cause I had to use the 1G plate. Worked but required a little drilling and I believe it's the front of the tranny that isn't exposed but their is a very tiny air gap their.

The thing is the energy suspension inserts only come with two washers, not four.

As for the timing cover, I plan on putting that on once the motor is in the car. Im not sure exactly what your talking about, I dont know what part of the mount your talking about cutting?

Thanks for the heads up.
 
I think he's saying you won't be able to take the cover off/in because it goes around the motor mount and there's not much room b/w the motor and frame. He's wrong though, you can and without breaking it. I've said it once already in the thread, take it out and put it in through the bottom. Use a jack with a towel under the oil pan to raise and lower the engine as necessary. Be gentle and take your time, you'll be golden. While I do like his idea of just cutting everything out above the mount for ease, I rather be safe (less space to have something fall in) then sorry.
 
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