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My 2g 6 Bolt Build

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Looking good! I really wished I lived at home still, I would've been able to put in all the wrench time like you and save some money. With the labor cost I could've used it to buy a new turbo setup and more goodies
 
Spoolin98 said:
Well I took some brake cleaner and scotchbrite to the pressure plate. There is some pitting on the pressure plate surface from the rust. Is this something I should worry about? or should I just install it?
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That's something I might worry about. Might want to take it to a machine shop and get it smoothed out. How deep is it?
 
How much mileage is on that pressure plate? It looks like it has seen it's fair share of use/abuse.

I guess I'm just surprised that you went to such pains on the rest of the build but are going to put a well used pressure plate back in the car. Did you at least make sure the fingers are all still straight?
 
delta448 said:
I guess I'm just surprised that you went to such pains on the rest of the build but are going to put a well used pressure plate back in the car. Did you at least make sure the fingers are all still straight?
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He's not made of money :p
 
Well the pits are deep enough that you can feel them. The only reason I planned on using this pressure plate is because, believe it or not, it only has 10k or less on it. I barely used the thing. It didnt look that bad when I first took it off the motor, its been sitting in a garage for two years +. It was perfectly smooth when i first removed it with no marks on it, just colored spots on it where it was heated. Also, another reason why I wanted to use is it is because the clutch is already broken in.

How do I make sure the fingers are straight?
 
I'm on the edge of my seat...this is like an action movie. I can't wait to see whats next! :D
 
What does your flywheel look like. That PP has some nasty hot spots in it. I usually buff them out with a scotch brite pad on my right angle die grinder. It's not strong enough to really remove any material but it will score up the surface for a nice clutch break-in. And it will have enough grit to take down very minor high spots. If you can feel high and low spots with your finger then their was definitely a issue their. Probably the 2100 was slipping more than you thought it was.

I'm not to sure if this is the first motor you have installed in a 2G but it's way easier to put the motor in first and then install the tranny. It's next to impossible to install it with the tranny attached. I've done it both ways. Being you have the oil filter housing off and you sounded like you where going to attach the tranny and install motor and tranny together thought I would chim in. Oil filter housing was the show stopper when I installed the motor and tranny together. Buddy tired to jam in into the bay and ended up tweaking the oil filter housing and it never would seal. Had to replace it. I just finished installing a 6 bolt in a 2G a few days ago. Only took about an hour to drop the motor in and get the tranny stabbed and have both front motor and rear tranny mount attached. That included smoke breaks.
 
Maglin said:
I'm not to sure if this is the first motor you have installed in a 2G but it's way easier to put the motor in first and then install the tranny. It's next to impossible to install it with the tranny attached. I've done it both ways. Being you have the oil filter housing off and you sounded like you where going to attach the tranny and install motor and tranny together thought I would chim in. Oil filter housing was the show stopper when I installed the motor and tranny together. Buddy tired to jam in into the bay and ended up tweaking the oil filter housing and it never would seal. Had to replace it. I just finished installing a 6 bolt in a 2G a few days ago. Only took about an hour to drop the motor in and get the tranny stabbed and have both front motor and rear tranny mount attached. That included smoke breaks.
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I completely disagree. I've only done two, but I've pulled the tranny many times and it's a pain in the as$. If you have everything out, it's easiest (for me) to install with the tranny in the car first but pulled back and then install the motor. Look at my link. Took about 25 mins to get the motor in and mounted. So I'd do it my way or all at once. When I did it though I had most everything off the motor, including the oil filter housing.
 
All you do is drop the crossmember for the front mount and take the rear mount off the tranny. Leave the top/rear tranny mount on but loose and it really only takes a few minutes to stab it on the motor. On a 1G it's cake to drop the engine and tranny in together. I can pull a 1G motor in about an hour starting from opening the hood. Install on a 1G is about 20 minutes give or take 5 minutes. The 2G is more narrow and I prefer to attach all the accessories to the engine with it on the stand. Makes it a lot easier and faster. Then just drop the motor in and attach front/only mount and bolt and put a jack under the motor, or leave the engine crane on it. (takes about 5 minutes) Have the back of the motor slightly slanted down and exhaust side slightly up. Then the tranny slips right in. With nothing on the motor includeing no oil filter housing then yes it might be easier for some to do it with tranny attached but it's still a PITA and you have a lot of wires in the way with the stock harness being super hugh and in the way. Then their is the throttle cables and cruise unit and brake reservoir to take off. I've done it both with with everything on. As I said with the tranny attached I had to remove the oil filter housing and the top/rear tranny mount was a hugh PITA. If you don't have it installed you will be pulling it back out or fighting to get that installed.
 
Maglin said:
With nothing on the motor includeing no oil filter housing then yes it might be easier for some to do it with tranny attached but it's still a PITA and you have a lot of wires in the way with the stock harness being super hugh and in the way. Then their is the throttle cables and cruise unit and brake reservoir to take off. I've done it both with with everything on. As I said with the tranny attached I had to remove the oil filter housing and the top/rear tranny mount was a hugh PITA. If you don't have it installed you will be pulling it back out or fighting to get that installed.
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Zip tie the cables/wires, take the hood off and use the bracket to hold the throttle cable. I never had a problem with the vacuum for the cruise being in the way or the brake reservoir.

I highly suggest putting the motor in w/o all the accessories. Gives you more room and will be a whole lot less frustrating in the end imo. But do what you want :thumb:
 
I appreciate all the advice guys, but here is my plan. Feel free to give me suggestions on this. The hood is already off and the cruise control has been removed. None of the accessories are going on the motor, its being dropped in as is without the timing belt on. As for the tranny, my plan was to put the tranny on the motor and then drop the whole thing in as one. I purposely left the oil housing off because I knew it would cause issues and is easy to install once in the car.

Unless someone can tell me why this is a bad course of action, then Im going to do it this way and hope it works out in my favor.

Installing the tranny first and then the motor would work, Im debating it.
 
Spoolin98 said:
I appreciate all the advice guys, but here is my plan. Feel free to give me suggestions on this. The hood is already off and the cruise control has been removed. None of the accessories are going on the motor, its being dropped in as is without the timing belt on. As for the tranny, my plan was to put the tranny on the motor and then drop the whole thing in as one. I purposely left the oil housing off because I knew it would cause issues and is easy to install once in the car.

Unless someone can tell me why this is a bad course of action, then Im going to do it this way and hope it works out in my favor.

Installing the tranny first and then the motor would work, Im debating it.
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Only thing I'd do different is install the timing belt outside of the car, it's easier. I had to do both because somehow something got into the timing belt cover right after the swap (thank god I checked it...) and had to change it with the motor in the car, not so fun. Wasn't horrible but... yeah.
 
TSG59_Steve said:
Only thing I'd do different is install the timing belt outside of the car, it's easier. I had to do both because somehow something got into the timing belt cover right after the swap (thank god I checked it...) and had to change it with the motor in the car, not so fun. Wasn't horrible but... yeah.
Click to expand...

The reason I am putting the timing belt on inside the car is so I can prime the motor before start up manually, then install the timing belt and accessories. This way I can take the valve cover off and make sure the head is getting oil and assure me that nothing will be dry and everything is primed.

Believe me, I would much rather do the timing belt outside the car, but I have done them inside the car and its not too bad, but its definately easier outside the car.
 
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