Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

[Gamble97]

I run a -3an feed and modified stock drain, no issues in over a year and 10k miles. Turbo has 0 play and spools great.

Restrictor or no?

 

[red_devil]

No restriction

I still recommend everyone to test the pressure still. I tested my setup and saw a min of 17psi at idle and max of 70psi at 6k

 

[Gamble97]

I'll have to move my oil pressure sensor. What port on the OFH does the oil feed go to? Sorry the car has been down for a long time and it's hard to remember exactly what goes where.

 

[Gamble97]

What size vband is needed on a hx40 exhaust outlet?

 

[907dsm]

Iirc 3"

 

[Gamble97]

Got some of my oil drain parts in. Do you use teflon tape or paste on the 12an fitting that goes to the flange at the bottom of the turbo? And does anyone know off hand what lenght/thread/pitch bolts you need. The flange and gasket are pretty thick.

 

[kicker91laser]

Gamble, use teflon paste, I don't use any tape oiling system parts. The thread size is m8X1.25, I don't remember what the length was. I believe I shot for ~1/2" of theads to be in the chra when the fitting was attatched, and I also used some lock washers. Fwiw, I used some black oxide socket head cap screws on mine. Hope this helps.

 

[red1993gsallmt]

i wouldnt use teflon paste either, i use leak lock, its blue and can be found at your local plumbing supply house, i use it at work on oil tanks, oil doesnt eat away at it like it does teflon

 

[kicker91laser]

I use loctite 567 sealant. We used it where I worked at in the past on all of our tapered thread hydraulic fittings that were running up to 3500psi, and using high-detergents in the fluid. It also prevents galling, which is a plus.

 

[Gamble97]

What is galling?

 

[kicker91laser]

What is galling?

Stainless Steel Galling / Locking Up / Freezing Up

 

[LiquidX]

For all of you that are using a -12 drain, be sure that you are within specs for oil pressure first but as Justin has said, more volume the better. Size effects of not enough oil volume.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

These ones may have played in with not enough volume which lead to it getting chewed up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[JusMX141]

Right. You have to remember that a larger drain will hold less oil in the cartridge, so you may need to back off the size of the restrictor a bit in order to keep a sufficient amount of lube in the journals.

Although, these photos are a little misleading as you've definitely experienced some type of oil contamination at some point. The thrust plate and washer should not get grooved like that from normal operation. With all of the Holsets I've rebuilt, some having significant shaft play, I've NEVER seen one with the thrust plate and washer grooved like that. I'm going to say that even with more oil volume entering your turbo, it still would have shown similar failure signs.


You can definitely see the benefits of having the proper-sized drain and keeping the pressure within spec on this unit- there is NO oil coking on the backside of the turbine, and the turbine seal(s) and groove are cleaner than 99% of the turbos I get in for service.

 

[donniekak]

Right. You have to remember that a larger drain will hold less oil in the cartridge, so you may need to back off the size of the restrictor a bit in order to keep a sufficient amount of lube in the journals.

.

Oil waiting in the cartridge to drain has nothing to do with the pressurized oil floating the shaft. It can back up from to small of a drain, pressurize the entire cartridge, and leak past the seals.

 

[95AWD6Bolt]

The HX40 DSM record-holder is currently using a restrictor I drilled to 3/32" which is around the same size as a -3AN line's I.D. He's also using a -10AN drain which I "funneled" the top of the turbo's drain flange to match the outlet of the Holset cartridge. The drain itself consists of two 45* fittings with a short piece of braided line in between.

He now has a full season of racing as well as some street driving on the HX40, and a full season of racing and driving the previous year using the same feed and drain setup on a HX35....both turbos are as tight as the day I rebuilt them.

So a -10an drain would be ok to run with a restricted feed?


I have been reading multiple holset thread and want to make sure that I have everything straight. My main question is the above if I need a 12 an drain fittig or if a 10 would be ok.
I have an 8 blade hx35. Going to get a BEP housing and run off of my current manifold and o2 housing, etc. I have a -4an feed from the ofh and will need to get a .075 restrictor. Finally I need a drain line. I currently have a -10an setup but have read that I will need a -12. To go to a negative 12, I will need to drop the oil pan, drill out the return hole and weld a -12an fitting onto it?

Turbo guru's, does that sound right?

 

[Yamahaulin]

Thought i would add this link up for those looking for flanges to accept -12. Turbo Flanges & Gaskets, T6 / S400 Oil Drain Flange, RPS-T6ODF | RacePartSolutions.com

 

[jjrock5]

^ That site was posted months ago.

 

[JusMX141]

So a -10an drain would be ok to run with a restricted feed?

Should be fine- just make sure the drain is as straight as possible and doesn't dip below the inlet of the oil pan in any way.

I would "funnel" the top of the -10AN drain flange at the turbo in order to make a smoother transition between the cartridge and the flange.

I have been reading multiple holset thread and want to make sure that I have everything straight. My main question is the above if I need a 12 an drain fittig or if a 10 would be ok.

Guys have used -10AN drains and they have worked...this doesn't mean it will work for you, nor does it mean it's the right thing to do.

 

[Gooberlog]

I'm putting together a built short block so that i can push my HX35 to it's potential. Since i will be pushing more boost (35-40 psi probably) I know that oil drain and feeding is more critical. I'm looking for feed back and suggestions on my oiling set up. I have reviewed the HOLSET OILING THREAD front to back but there are so many recommendations for different set ups.

PLANS FOR OIL FEEDING: This is a link to the oil feed line i bought to feed the turbo from the OFH. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Feedline Kit (Oil Filter Location): Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 I bought a new Mighty Max forward facing OFH, but I'm not sure yet if it will fit with my LICP. The balance shafts will be eliminated completely using a BSEK with a stub shaft.
Questions for Oil supply-
1) i'm not sure yet what fittings/adapters or modifications i'll need to mate up the oil supply line to the Forward facing OFH or my stock housing if I'm forced to use that one.
2) I'm not sure what size the oil feed line is (-3 AN or -4 AN?) but i guess i could take it to a speed shop and match up AN adapters to it
3) Is it suggested that i port the oil relief if I'm going to be eliminating my balance shafts on my new engine and if i do or do not, should i run a restrictor in my oil feed line?

PLANS FOR OIL DRAIN SET UP: After reviewing the oiling thread, it seems that -12AN is the recommended oil drain size for a HX35. I'm going to get a -12 weld bung and have a friend weld it to a 1G NT oil pan after i drill a hole for the bung and clean the pan up. This a link to the oil drain kit that I bought and used most of the parts on my car now with my stock motor. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Oil Feedline Kit (Oil Filter Location): Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 I'm guessing since i'll be using the -12 bung at the oil pan I'll probably have to totally reconfigure my oil drain set up. I'm assuming that there is no point in going from the -10 line i have now and feeding it in to a -12 fitting at the pan, so i'll probably have to switch my drain set up completely to work with the -12 AN size fittings. Does this sound about right?

 

[JusMX141]

That's a -4AN feed line. This is fine as long as your pressure is within spec considering the HX35's on Dodge trucks are fed using a -6AN feed. WTF

Everything else looks good....only add as much restriction to the feed line as you need to get the max pressure at around 70psi. You definitely do not want to deprive the turbo of oil running that much boost. With a -12AN drain you may be able to get away with running it unrestricted- be sure to port the relief hole on the new filter housing. With your drain, remember that two 45*'s are favored over one 90* fitting for optimum drainage.

 

[Gooberlog]

That's a -4AN feed line. This is fine as long as your pressure is within spec considering the HX35's on Dodge trucks are fed using a -6AN feed. WTF

Everything else looks good....only add as much restriction to the feed line as you need to get the max pressure at around 70psi. You definitely do not want to deprive the turbo of oil running that much boost. With a -12AN drain you may be able to get away with running it unrestricted- be sure to port the relief hole on the new filter housing. With your drain, remember that two 45*'s are favored over one 90* fitting for optimum drainage.

Yeah i've read before that the harder you push the turbo the more important proper feed and drainage is. My turbo has been great since you built it for me. I have ran up to 29 psi feeding the oil from the head (no balance shafts & I never ported oil relief) and the -10 AN push lock drain kit in the link in my previous post. It has been great with no smoking. But with the new short block going in i know that before i push it hard I"ll want to change my oil feed and drain.

I would like to set up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge before i fire up the new engine, so i can keep an eye on the life blood at all times. If i get an oil pressure gauge to mount in the car, I'll try to put it right before the turbo oil feed line on the oil filter housing. I just hope the pressure under boost is right the first time, cause otherwise i'll have to move the sending unit to after a restictor if i end up needing one, so i can get an accurate measurement of the oil pressure before it enters the turbo. I'll plan on porting the oil relief port on which ever OFH i end up using. I'll have to mock up the forward facing Mighty Max OFH on my car now before i do all of this work to find fittings and porting since i may not have room in between the block and my LICP for a oil filter.

I'll plan on using two 45* -12AN drain fittings, but it seems that most people that try this with a stock style manifold (i'm running a ported 2G exhaust manifold for a while) don't have enough room for the silicone hose to mate the two fittings together. If this is the case i'll try to run one 45* fitting off the bottom of the turbo and hopefully a slightly curved/straight hose to the oil pan.

I'm just really nervous about all of this, because i'll be worrying about all of the normal stuff when starting a fully rebuilt engine PLUS worrying about my turbo being ok on start up and break in of the new engine. I'll be pretty nervous on that first test drive.

 

[cookmeup272]

I just read all 11 pages to properly prepare myself for installing the hx40. Some people were getting pretty scientific and wanting to use oil pumps and what not. But it seems like the general consensus is a -12AN oil drain with no kinks(obviously) and no sharp bends (i.e. 90* angles). Also feeding it with a -3AN or a -4AN with a .075 restricter. Personally, I would like to shy away from using a restricter and just run a straight line from the OFH to the turbo. So I think that is what I am going to do. -3AN from the OFH to turbo and a -12AN system for the drain.

 

[LiquidX]

Well before you decide on your oil feed diameter you do want to test the oil pressure. As justin has stated, as long as you had proper pressure you want the most flow (volume) you can achieve. The Cummins are fed with a -6 feed line. With a -12 drain a -4 feed could be what you want. I would highly recommend an inline filter (fp filter) to keep the oil clean from contamination and it is goin to give you good flow as well.

Give it some thought because it sucks going through turbos due to contamination like I had happen.

This isnt rocket science like most people are making it out to be.

 

[JusMX141]

I think the -3AN feed from filter housing / -12AN drain combo is a perfect idea.

 

[cookmeup272]

A filter sounds like a good idea except for the high price and and the possibility of potential clogging....restricting most, if not all oil flow....which i would really like to not happen .