Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

[92tsiawdguy]

Check my profile pics. Its the easiest/most reliable way to do a 12ab drain imo

 

[El Cuervo]

So to those that are using even the 12an fittings for the oil drain line, guess what?? You oil drain line is STILL too small. Remember that the fitting is measured in outlet diameter, not inlet diameter. 12an fittings are 3/4 or about 19mm. Which is the minimun requirement by holset. But they ( 12an fittings) are measured in OD. So you are getting a much less inlet diameter. Something like: 15.50 or 15.53mm. This is less than the minimun requirement from holset. If you are going to use a 12an fittings for your return line, it would be best to just use a 2g oil return line. Honestly, the best thing here to do is to either build a line thats 3/4inch in ID from turbo to pan. I'm talking abouit a true 3/4 or 19mm line. Or just 14an fittings. These will be about 19mm in ID. But there is a problem. 14an fittings do not exist. I already checked everywhere. You can also look for 7/8inch fittings but they are extremely hard to find. For some reason, 7/8 is an unusual and odd measurement. So the best thing to do here is to go with either 16an fittings or like I said before, build your own 3/4 I.D piping. I know that most people here are now running 12an with no problems at all but it still doesn't meet holset min requirements.
I just thought I brought this up.

 

[RiGs2G]

I got the fittings and took the gasket to a friend...He cut the flange free handedly based on the gasket and welded the two together....

The hose, I will find the part number and post it when I get some time....A friend let me wonder through the back of the Oreillys he works at until I found it, it took a while but its an almost exact match...

-Kevin-

Did you ever find that part number for the hose? Im doing up my drain right now and that would be very helpful.. Thanks

I found the hose I needed! My set for my return line is: a stock Holset return line cut down from the turbo to a 90 degree 3/4" hose to a -12 AN pushlock fitting on the pan. Here is the part number for the hose that I trimmed down to fit. I had plenty left over, so this should work for most everyone. Ill post pics tomorrow of this and my internal WG set up on my hx35

90 degree 3/4" return line hose from AutoZone: D80412 Kelly Springfield Molded Heater Hose. $12.99

 

[Black94DSM]

Pics of that set up would be great. I'm actually trying to figure this very same thing out right now.

 

[turboboy4]

I am using a -16 return line little tight but should work good, I will try to get pics of this soon.

 

[El Cuervo]

turboboy4. Could you post some pics of your oil return line?
Thanks.

 

[RiGs2G]

Here are pictures of my return line set up and my internal wastegate. Any questions let me know. I jsut started the car this morning, and so far no leaks (knock on wood)

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I made the internal wastegate piece (in green) out of 3/8 steel brake line. I curved it into an "S" shape and then flattened the one side to drill a hole into it for the wastegate flapper. Ill let you know how it holds up

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[jjrock5]

That looks very nice.

 

[Black94DSM]

Well, I figured I could add my junk to the thread.....

I have roughly $9.80 in this entire return line setup....

Heres my flange for the turbo, Friend of mine welded the fitting on for me....

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Where did you get the pipe material from? I like that it has a beaded end to it.

 

[tsiboostin]

Where did you get the pipe material from? I like that it has a beaded end to it.

I sent him a pm earlier asking him where he got the fittings from. I think this is the best idea so far. I believe 7/8" is over 22mm which is more than the stock holset return. I think you could pick up some nice -16 or even -20 stainless or proclassic line and this would be a great set up.

 

[turboboy4]

I sent him a pm earlier asking him where he got the fittings from. I think this is the best idea so far. I believe 7/8" is over 22mm which is more than the stock holset return. I think you could pick up some nice -16 or even -20 stainless or proclassic line and this would be a great set up.

If you do it definately do proclassic or push lock. I used -16 stainless and it is super hard to work with and has no flex. I ended up having to use hose clamps instead of the correct AN locks. It works good just not as clean as I would have liked

 

[tsiboostin]

If you do it definately do proclassic or push lock. I used -16 stainless and it is super hard to work with and has no flex. I ended up having to use hose clamps instead of the correct AN locks. It works good just not as clean as I would have liked

Yeah I think pro classic is the way to go. Also my local napa store has the metal wire that goes around hoses to shape them, this should allow me to shape a nice even flow bend. Hopefully he will get back to me, if not I'll go out and find something to use for the fittings.

 

[-red97rum-]

I never posted pictures up of my finished return line. I ended up going with a 60* -12 off the turbo and a 45* -12 from my oil pan. I connected the two pieces with a 3/4" silicone hose section. Not the cheapest route by any means but it's good to go.

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Now I just need extend my LICP by about 3" so I don't have that "jumper" piece of pipe in there . I'm probably going to weld a cast aluminum elbow to the compressor outlet.

 

[Pirrofab]

I actually just had a friend weld a 2g throttle body elbow that was cut down and modified to fit onto a cut down compressor housing for my 35. It looks like its meant to be. Just looks like a t-25 outlet just pointing the other way. As far my drain i used to vibrant performance -10 fittings with the center drilled out. and 3/4 hose with clamps.

I never posted pictures up of my finished return line. I ended up going with a 60* -12 off the turbo and a 45* -12 from my oil pan. I connected the two pieces with a 3/4" silicone hose section. Not the cheapest route by any means but it's good to go.

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Now I just need extend my LICP by about 3" so I don't have that "jumper" piece of pipe in there . I'm probably going to weld a cast aluminum elbow to the compressor outlet.

 

[JusMX141]

I never posted pictures up of my finished return line. I ended up going with a 60* -12 off the turbo and a 45* -12 from my oil pan. I connected the two pieces with a 3/4" silicone hose section. Not the cheapest route by any means but it's good to go.

AWESOME work! That's the way to be, by far...huge line with no kinks; smooth transition right into the pan.

 

[WIDSM]

Turbodsm18 have you installed yours in the car yet? I'm curious of your clearance of the front motor mount. I made 3/4 inch id flanges for mine (they're posted somewhere earlier in the thread) and my hose is resting on the mount so I'd imagine you're going to have a few clearance issues.

 

[-red97rum-]

AWESOME work! That's the way to be, by far...huge line with no kinks; smooth transition right into the pan.

Thanks Justin. It took me a while to get it how I wanted but I'm happy with the way it turned out. I had to "finesse" the front motor mount quite a bit and cut a barb off one of my -12 fittings before it all lined up the way I wanted it to.

 

[Pirrofab]

Its finally running and moving. So far no issues as far as leaks or smoke. Just wanted to ask though if there is any issues running from the ofh but running it from the port that usually houses the oil pressure warning light. I fed my -4 feed line from that hole instead and had the car running for about an hour with a couple quick runs just up and down my street in first gear. up to about 5500. no smoke or anything unusual. I'll have pictures of my drain set up soon. ITs just 3/4 silicone hose that has 3/4 o.d. an fittings that I drilled out for as much flow as possible. The hose has a slight kink in it that i will be fixing by using the anti kink springs that the hardware stores sell. I dont have a restrictor in the feed line. and I have no idea what my pressure is at. I may try and find a tee fitting i can screw into the ofh and then use a snap on oil pressure gauge being as I have access to one at my shop. How accurate would it be if I am to just screw the oil pressure gauge into the ofh and get a "deadhead" pressure reading. It should only be higher then what The turbo would see. However i would need to remove the turbo so no damage is done to it.

 

[talon1979]

Has anyone tried using this 12 an oil return like kit?

MAP Oil Return Line Kit / Pushlock Hose (DSM) - Modern Automotive Performance

 

[99gst_racer]

Has anyone tried using this 12 an oil return like kit?

MAP Oil Return Line Kit / Pushlock Hose (DSM) - Modern Automotive Performance

That kit doesn't say it's -12 AN. It looks like -8 or -10.

 

[jjrock5]

Yea I'd say -10.

I have a new ExtremePSI -10 if anyone's interested.

 

[dsmlifestyle]

This is my contribution to the thread. Here is my -16AN solution for the drain issue. I went with a high volume, pressure adjustable, solution through the use of drilled ss socket head screws. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cus...l-diy-manifold-dp-intake-bypass-oil-feed.html

 

[bsbllfit7]

so what is the consensus on the best route to go? I am purchasing a hx35 very soon and am already thinking about what route to go with my oil drain.

 

[JusMX141]

As big as possible...a -12AN custom line is the best choice for a daily driver to assure proper drainage.

Nobody makes anything in a kit that is anywhere near big enough for these turbos.

 

[Raymos24]

So my turbo was smoking and I thought the seals were blown. I put a new turbo on and it seems to still be smoking. I am staring to point at the return line. Here's a pic of my retun line flange. We tried to make it as big as possible but now I am not too sure about it.

#1

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#2

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Does this look like a restriction to you? I was thinking of buying this flange from ebay that is advertised at a whopping 44mm.

Turbo Oil Return Flange 44mm Garrett T25 T28 TB25 TB28: eBay Motors (item 150472331986 end time Aug-25-10 08:12:07 PDT)

Do you think it will suit me better?