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Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

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12an doesn't strike me as the best option I've spend my money on. I did some measurements and it looked like it would be very restrictive, surely less restrictive than 10an drain setup, but still much smaller than the Holset requirement of minimum off 19mm.

Here's my 8 blade hx35W outlet

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the T6 adapter flange with 3/4 NPT threads

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First restriction is the 12an to 3/4 fitting - it's already 2mm less.

Then the same fitting on the 12an side, the ID lessens even more to 15mm

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And then the push locks - the OD of the 12an is indeed 19+mm, but what good does that do,

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when the ID is 15mm

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So by far the best option is the stock 2g drain with 17+mm ID.

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Will the ends of that line thread right on to AN fittings? If so, that would be pretty badass.

I can't tell if they're a tapered flare or not.

You can get them with many different end fittings.

http://www.brasscraft.com/pdf/0626_CopperFlex.pdf

It looks like the sleeve and washer could be removed and you would be left with a flared copper end on the PDF.


Pretty nice 3/4" drain fittings on ebay for $19
 

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I just bought this: 3/4" PEX x 3/4" Male NPT Thread Crimp Fitting

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I'll see how it's going to work with the stock 2g return and 12an push hose slipped on top. The 12an hose has 19mm ID and it slips right on top of the 2g return

Im a plumber and I can tell you ive seen those pex crimps fail. I only use copper for a reason on all my jobs, and its not just me. Alot of engineers that spec material on jobs wont allow pex to be used, especially on hot water lines witch are only a max of 120* and 60psi. I wont trust my motor to pex, but copper is great for a oil drain:thumb:
 
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While my car was up in the air I though I would snap a pic of my drain setup. silicone hose (no its not just a garden hose:p) in between a Dodge 2500 stock drain tube cut 2"from the flange, and the stock 2g drain.
 

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I'm trying to route the drain from a HX35 on a 1g but the motor mount is interfering with the fitting. Is this a common issue?
 
Here's how to do an oil drain for a HY35 on a turbonetics manifold on a 1g.

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Pretty simple, make a flange out of 1/4" plate, then get a 3/4" hose mender barb at the hardware store. Cut a angle on it and have it welded together.

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Then get some 3/4" oil hose, I got mine from a john deere dealer. I also used the other end of the hose mender and a 90* -12 hydraulic fitting to create a 80* -12 pushlock. I also welded a -12bung to my oilpan.

So far it quit blowing smoke on a cold start, doesn't leak, and its way easier to work on than the damn 2bolt flange shit.

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It's also easier to build this stuff when you have a mock up motor.
 
I'm using the lower port on the 90 OFH to feed my hx35. The manifold I'm using won't allow me to fit the oil pressure T into the turbo side of the feed line. Will I be safe if I meet the required pressures on the OFH side of the feed line? I know it would be better to know exactly whats at the turbo, but this is the best I can do.
 
I'm using the lower port on the 90 OFH to feed my hx35. The manifold I'm using won't allow me to fit the oil pressure T into the turbo side of the feed line. Will I be safe if I meet the required pressures on the OFH side of the feed line? I know it would be better to know exactly whats at the turbo, but this is the best I can do.

Yes; over that short of a run the pressure drop will be negligible.
 
While my car was up in the air I though I would snap a pic of my drain setup. silicone hose (no its not just a garden hose:p) in between a Dodge 2500 stock drain tube cut 2"from the flange, and the stock 2g drain.

That's exactly how i did mine and most other's i've done or helped people with.. except i use the garrett drain fitting at the turbo instead of the dodge one (didn't do holsets so didn'thave acess to the dodge stuff)

But i've never had an issue over hte life of my car when using a piece of hose clamped to the 2g OEM return cut off just like your pic
 
Just scored another turbo. Holset T46. I was surprised to see that this tank came with a HUGE -16 oil return fitting. It seems to connect to the CHRA via pipe thread. The I.D. measures .720" (which is a bit small for the average -16 fitting). Just thought I'd share.

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I ran into a similar issue years back. I recommend porting the oil relief valve on the filter housing. When I turned my DSM over in the morning, my op gauge would read 800-850kPa oil pressure on a nice day (around 120psig). On a decent feed line, that would surely cause some concern on an undersized drain. It's totally unnecessary to be running that kind of cold pressure anyway.

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Here's mine. I used a 1/2" MIP with a 5/8" hose straight through. It has no restrictions
 

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So for my hx35 bep 55, I'm going to use a -10an bung welded into my oil pan(stock location). I'll use 2 45 degree pushlocks. And I know I need 5/8 hose but what kind? I've read that the black hose doesnt resist heat and oil well. Any insight?
 
Right. You have to remember that a larger drain will hold less oil in the cartridge, so you may need to back off the size of the restrictor a bit in order to keep a sufficient amount of lube in the journals.

I have a -16an drain setup and plan to install an oil pressure gauge inline with the oil fed from the ofh. Are you saying that even if the oil pressure is in spec using a restrictor that I may need more oil pressure since my drain line is so big?
 
Ran a similar oil return line as Justin on our HX35. We modified the 2G OEM turbo oil return line by cutting it about two inches above the flex section and putting push-lock hose between the OEM line and a 3/4" hose barb to 1/2" NPT (can be found at most hardware stores) on a 1/2" NPT T3/T4 oil drain adapter fitting.

Installed:
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1/2" NPT T3/T4 oil drain adapter fitting (ExtremePSI sells them) - EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
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3/4" Hose Barb to 1/2" NPT:
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i found this at a buddies garage he does alot with stock car racing.... its -12an and was woundering if it would work for my hx35 i will be installing... not sure if its to long or not tell me what ya think?
 

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Just scored another turbo. Holset T46. I was surprised to see that this tank came with a HUGE -16 oil return fitting. It seems to connect to the CHRA via pipe thread. The I.D. measures .720" (which is a bit small for the average -16 fitting). Just thought I'd share.

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I see these turbos on the 855 Big Cam Cummins all the time and the drain they have is massive. Easily 1" O.D. pipe.
 

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i found this at a buddies garage he does alot with stock car racing.... its -12an and was woundering if it would work for my hx35 i will be installing... not sure if its to long or not tell me what ya think?
It looks pretty good to me, did you try it out yet? I'd probably say a little to long.
 
i know most of this info is posted and scattered here and there but this is out of the holset hx35/40 rebuild manual.....

"8. Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9°F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
...
11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.
...
14. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).
15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.

Installation Data
1. Mount the turbocharger on the turbine inlet flange. All other connections must be flexible and heavy pipework
should be supported. Always pre-lube with clean engine oil.
2. Always position the bearing housing so that the oil drain is at the bottom and kept within 22° of the vertical centre
line when installed on the engine.
3. Oil should be filtered below 15/20 microns. The oil quality must be as specified by the engine manufacturer.
e.g. API - CD (MIL - L - 2104C). Improvement in life can be obtained by using super high performance diesel
(SPHD) oils, particularly where extended oil drain periods are used.
4. Oil pressure must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to
turbocharger bearing system from lack of lubrication.
5. The minimum oil pressure, when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa [2.0 kgf/cm2, 30 lbf/in2] and pressures up
to 415 kPa [4.0 kgf/cm2, 60 lb/in2] are satisfactory. Under idling conditions the pressure should not fall below 70 kPa
[0.7 kgf/cm2. 10lbf/in2].
6. The oil inlet pipe should be 9.5 mm [0.375 in.] bore minimum and the oil drain pipe should be 19 mm [0.75 in.] bore
minimum. The oil must drain downwards by gravity from the turbocharger into the engine under all operating
conditions.
7. Air cleaner pressure drop should not exceed 500 mm [20 in.] of water. Avoid damp/wet air conditions in filter as this
can dramatically increase pressure drop on a temporary basis.
8. The exhaust back pressure after the turbocharger should not exceed 500 mm [20 in.] of water. Consult Holset
where high restrictions are expected, particularly when exhaust brakes"
 
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