First pass on E-Bay 16G

[5150DSM]

Made my first pass with the new motor on the E-Bay E316G. The pass was ok but there are some issues that need to be worked out. Mods are in the profile, the pass was made under iffy circumstances. Wastegate line was off but I also had a I/C coupler that was partially blown off, so... 5 psi launch 12 psi down the strip, with 9.6:1 AFR's.

 

[5150DSM]

I'm in the right lane.

 

[evileagleawd]

Well we cant all pull a John Sheppard first time out! But keep year head up and fix your known issues. Then you will watch those E.T's plummet!

 

[slow4g6392tsi]

That is really not that bad for that low of boost and a 2.3 60'

 

[5150DSM]

I'm not mad. I got kicked off the track after the first pass for no helmet. My only bi*** is the car ran great at the 24 psi I had it tuned for on the street. (30% E85 mix) Then when I went to get a timeslip everything falls apart. I have hundreds of passes with a manual but this was my first time running an auto. Actually, this is only the second auto car I have ever owned, the first being an 89 Accord so...

 

[Bud92gsx]

Swap to a 5speed ecu.The different ecu will allow you to spool as long as you need to for the launch.I'm guessing your brake boosting for the launch?

Also upgrade your brake pads, to hold back a 3000lb car while your staging..

 

[5150DSM]

Swap to a 5speed ecu.The different ecu will allow you to spool as long as you need to for the launch.I'm guessing your brake boosting for the launch?

Also upgrade your brake pads, to hold back a 3000lb car while your staging..

Thanks Bud. 5 speed ECU has been installed for a couple of years now. Though I could definately use some Hawk's or EBC's. And yes, I was brake boosting, still trying to get the coordination down. I think the pass would have been much better without the WG & I/C coupler issues but, bottom line, I have a lot of work to do before I'm proficient at getting the most out of this set-up.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Look up IC piping tricks, like scoring, hairspray,t bolt clamps,ETC.



The 5psi is concerning.I seen more than that last time I brake boosted.

The brakes should be addressed if going to brake boost. I would also invest in RoadSurge Products pm me if your interested.I don't want to say anything public about price.

 

[5150DSM]

Thanks again. All the pipes are t-bolted and have lips as well, I might try hair spray or fu(king gorilla glue if I have to. I'm pretty sure the crappy brake boost was from the combination of blown W/G line and I/C coupler along with the ulra-rich afr's that killed my launch timing advance. I think these issues may have come about on the drive to the track... There was some spirited driving between myself and my buddy's Vovlo 740 wagon with a 50 trim. Just last night, I was able to brake boost 15 psi while practicing for the tonight's track time.

I'll keep reading and reading and working on my tuning and techniques. Thanks for the information and comments, the more the better.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Am I missing something, or are you.

You keep saying tune.But I don't even see an safc in your profile..You must be missing that part..Lets get to tuner and go from there.

 

[Pipnorcali]

Nice was it at sac?

 

[Bo0sTdTsI]

Thats not too bad bro, takes time, at least its a 13 and not a 14. Thats more of what im expecting on my set up

 

[5150DSM]

Hey Bud. I guess you missed it or maybe you don't consider MAF-T much of a tuning device (neither do I) but it's what I have for now. That and the LC-1 and MMCD for feedback/datalogging. I appreciate all the replies. I'll be going back out next Wednesday(Yes, Sac Raceway) after I pick up a new helmet and glue down my I/C pipes.

 

[95talongirl]

That's really not too bad for the first time out. Kinda funny they kicked you off for no helmet. I kept waiting for them to kick me off about a month ago when I kept running mid to high 13's, but they never did. At least you weren't chicken like me and actually launched the car. With mine, I launched off idle since the setup was new and really just wanted WOT data.

Keep with it!

 

[forcefed86]

Shoot you got another 15+mph in that turbo for sure.

Few comments/ideas...

Grab some meth injection.

Your WG line popping off will only make boost go up. It's not going to limit boost on launch. You need to keep pressure on the puck. Few different ways of doing that. One really easy way is to just run the line from your wastegate to your brake accumulator line after the check valve. This will put vac to it instead of boost. Helping to keep it closed. (ie raise boost). If you have your WG source post TB you can just install a one way check valve inline as well. This way vac gets trapped, and no boost gets to the WGA.

Or you could do like most and install a holset actuator.

Cheapo organic pads will hold better "cold" than the aftermarket pads. The HAWKS and EBC's require you to put some serious heat in them before they grab well. Not really time to heat up brakes before a drag run!

Using a decent 12v vac pump T'd into yout brakes assist works well. So does extending the brake pedal length for more leverage.

Another trick is to ground out the timing wire by the battery with a switch while spooling on the line. Should drop timing to 5* which will help spool. Release button after launch. Buddy had this hooked up to the VSS switch. Worked great.

Should be able to get 20+ on the launch...

My 16g spiked over 35psi w/ e30 and meth injection. Settled around 26-27.

Good luck!

 

[jtmcinder]

Also upgrade your brake pads, to hold back a 3000lb car while your staging..

You do realize that the weight of the car is almost completely irrelevant to brake-boosting, right? In fact, if anything, the heavier the car, the less brakes you need for this.

What you really want to do if you don't have the brakes needed for brake-boosting is upgrade the rear brakes, because, when you're not moving and have a 50/50 center, you want the brake bias to be closer to even than it is stock.

But we digress....

 

[Bud92gsx]

So when brake boosting the weight of the car actually keeps it back. Becuase the engine is turning, your just holding back the engine and axels.The weight of the car does help keep them from not moving.Gotcha

I never thought of upgrading the rear brakes.I guess thats next on my list if Cinder says so.

 

[jtmcinder]

Well, be careful about that. While near-balanced brakes would be best for brake-boosting, they'd be quite dangerous at the other end of the strip. I would not increase the rear brakes very much.

Now, if we were talking rallycross....

 

[DSMTyson]

Power-slot rotors and Hawk pads seemed to do the trick for me. Before that, I could not get it to stop creeping forward.. But I do have a 5300rpm stall....

 

[yukiz]

lets have a look at a log if you have.....
im just curious how the Ebay16g perform compare to real MHI.
Log will tell you everything....

 

[5150DSM]

lets have a look at a log if you have.....
im just curious how the Ebay16g perform compare to real MHI.
Log will tell you everything....

Yeah about that... This was also my first pass with MMCD installed (been using pocketlogger for years) I set the trigger (rpm based) but I guess there was a shut off trigger enabled as well so all I got was the "launch". I can guess that airflow and timing were fairly low because of the super rich condition but unfortunately I don't have any real data to analyze this time out. I know boost was 12 psi at WOT and AFR's were 9.4 - 9.6:1 and my ET/MPH, that's about it.

I have one of the better E-Bay turbos from CxRacing, came with a balance sheet and even had the balance marks on the CHRA, bearing was a 360* thrust type. I've ran this turbo for a little over 5k miles now and my impressions are all positive; I get full boost around 3300 rpm, it doesn't use/burn oil and has zero shaft play up to this point. I don't have any airflow numbers as of yet but the butt dyno says it's comparable to a real MHI unit at low/moderate boost as for higher boost, well... I haven't seen any good results from other people running these hard so my expectations are low on that score. I paid $220.00 shipped for this turbo after my 13g took a shit on me so if I get 10k and a dozen passes out of it then I'll be happy to blow it up and save for something that I really want. Right now, my injectors are damn near maxed and the MAF-T is very difficult to tune for both drivability and power so I have other things to concern myself with. (Like getting V3 and some bigger injectors/pump)

Thanks again everyone for the comments and suggestions they are all being taken to heart. I'll keep posting on tis thread as I make more passes and hopefully wring this thing for all it's worth.

One more thing. Thank you profusely to the founders, moderators, wisemen and all the other DSMTuners out there that have helped me throughout the years. You guys make all of the blood, sweat, tears (yes tears) and money invested worth it.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Well, be careful about that. While near-balanced brakes would be best for brake-boosting, they'd be quite dangerous at the other end of the strip. I would not increase the rear brakes very much.

Now, if we were talking rallycross....

You mean too much rear braking at the other end of the track will lead to problems?

I would take this to pms but keeping good information public, is always a plus.You would think I would know the answer to this by now, but we all learn new things every day.

 

[5150DSM]

You mean too much rear braking at the other end of the track will lead to problems?

I would take this to pms but keeping good information public, is always a plus.You would think I would know the answer to this by now, but we all learn new things every day.

I was trying to come up with an analogy that would explain my understanding. Think about when you used to ride a bike as a kid, most of the weight is on the rear tire, when you hit the front brakes you do an endo. If you were to put too much rear bias on a front heavy vehicle the effect is similar, not that the car will endo but but the fronts loose some contact patch making the front end squirelly.

Sound close Cinder?

 

[DirtyDSMDan]

think of having no grip in the rear tires... there isnt much weight back there so if you increase rear brake bias... when you are going fast and hit the brakes, they lock up, resulting in a damn near uncontrollable skid...

 

[Bud92gsx]

Wow, the simple answer is always the easiest.

Where is my lighter. Duh it's in my hand the whole time.