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Does anyone use the 143 degree thermostat?

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I think I actually talked to Paul about that thermostat before. He said he runs (or ran) a 170 with no issues. I was looking at that once before for the GST, but the 170 is doing just fine.
 
I think I actually talked to Paul about that thermostat before. He said he runs (or ran) a 170 with no issues. I was looking at that once before for the GST, but the 170 is doing just fine.

I was thinking of a 170* but if no one has tried the 143* I may just test it out and do a review as to its affects. My car will probably never see a winter drive so I shouldn't ever have an issue but the curiosity is getting me.
 
It won't change the way the engine operates in the end, just how long until the t-stat opens. I run a 160...no different than the stocker in the long run.
 
It won't change the way the engine operates in the end, just how long until the t-stat opens. I run a 160...no different than the stocker in the long run.

Yeah I'm afraid of that. The only thing that makes me think mine will act different is just the shear size of my radiator. This thing is freaking huge so maybe the larger coolant capacity will actually make a difference. :hmm:
 
Plus keeping yours fan always on, or to come on at a cooler temp.

I had bought a 170, but never got around to installing it.
 
Coolant capacity WILL play a part, for sure. Row count, too.
 
I don't know if the ecu will go into closed loop at 143*. I'm not sure of the fuel you use, or the tuning solution you employ, but if you get the car to stay at 143*, i don't think it's warm enough for proper operation. I know on e85, my car likes 170-190*.
 
^That's opening temp isn't it? Likely it would run 15-20 degrees higher as most other T-stats seem to.
 
I don't know if the ecu will go into closed loop at 143*. I'm not sure of the fuel you use, or the tuning solution you employ, but if you get the car to stay at 143*, i don't think it's warm enough for proper operation. I know on e85, my car likes 170-190*.

It will run closed loop at 143*. I can get my car to go closed loop alot sooner actually, but it will never stay that cold of course, no matter what thermostat is being used.
 
A 2G ECU starts trying to enter closed loop when the coolant temps exceed 51F for at least 5 seconds.
It doesn't update the long term trims until the coolant temp exceeds 180F, the intake temps are less than 123F and then barometric pressure is between 22.9 and 31.6 in Hg.

If your not running DSMLink it's the >180F to update the trims that you have to keep in mind.
 
I don't know if the ecu will go into closed loop at 143*. I'm not sure of the fuel you use, or the tuning solution you employ, but if you get the car to stay at 143*, i don't think it's warm enough for proper operation. I know on e85, my car likes 170-190*.

E85, V3. I would never want my car to stay at 143*. Like housegsx said, 143 is when the thermostat will start to open. I'm guessing full open wont be until close to 160.

It will run closed loop at 143*. I can get my car to go closed loop alot sooner actually, but it will never stay that cold of course, no matter what thermostat is being used.

This is exactly what I'm thinking, no car will stay anywhere near 143* no matter what you do.

A 2G ECU starts trying to enter closed loop when the coolant temps exceed 51F for at least 5 seconds.
It doesn't update the long term trims until the coolant temp exceeds 180F, the intake temps are less than 123F and then barometric pressure is between 22.9 and 31.6 in Hg.

If your not running DSMLink it's the >180F to update the trims that you have to keep in mind.

Great information right here man :thumb:

It's looking like no one has tried this thermostat so looks like I'll order it Monday when I get home. I'll let you all know what the results are.
 
I'll be interested in this as well. I'm thinking of going to a 160 but if the 143 works good then I'll go that route. I'm just wondering how it will work during the winter LOL
 
I am using this thermostat in my 2.4 and it is working great. The rated temperature of a thermostat is only its "cracking" temperature, or when it begins to open. Typically there will be a 10-15F range between cracking temperature and full open temperature.

I have used just about every other 170 or 180 thermostat with varying degrees of success but I wanted a lower, more stable temperature. The 2g cooling system is a bit odd with the thermostat on the inlet side. Because of this, the cool inlet water will cause it to close just as it is opening and it wont' be fully open until the inlet temp is at the thermostat temperature. This is why the 2gs always run at a higher temperature than the thermostat rating (~20* higher). The 1g and most other systems I've used put the thermostat on the hot outlet side and the temperature is actually "regulated" by the thermostat.

For example, on a 2g, if you have powerful fans and your radiator is functioning normally you can pull more heat from the system then the motor is producing. The temperature in the motor (the coolant bypasses the radiator in a closed-thermostat state) will exceed the temperature of the coolant in the radiator. When the thermostat opens the cool fluid from the radiator will begin to enter the motor, but at the same time it will reduce the temperature of the thermostat and it will close. This does effectively provide cooling as needed to the motor but it does not mean the thermostat opening temperature is the effective temperature you will be able to run.

Therefore, a much lower opening point is useful if you want to control the system temperature with fans and not the thermostat. That is where the 143F thermostat is helpful in the 2g cooling system. I use the coolant offset in DSMLink to control my target operating temperature range, and, because the fans are actively cooling the fluid in the motor and not just the fluid sitting in the radiator, I can effectively set whatever operating temperature I want, which, currently, the fans come on at 183F and turn off at 173F.

The downside with this setup is that it takes longer to warm up as the water begins circulating through the radiator at 143F, although the extra amount of time it takes to bring the whole system up to temperature is negligible. In an extremely cold climate it would end up running around 150F most of the time.
 
I ordered this last Friday. It hasn't come in yet. But I also ordered a 10" fan, 12" fan, and a koyo along with it. I am not too happy with my coolant temps with my hx-40 aluminum rod motor in this 90-100* heat. I'll let you guys know my experience if it's worth it.

I also really need to vent my hood over the turbo. I think that would help the most. This engine seems to create a significant amount of heat over my old stock motor with an 18g. Also, my car has a working A/C system.
 
I was having BAD overheating problems with a stock (195?) degree thermostat a few years ago, switched to a 160 and it Would run about 190 down the freeway and 200-203 in traffic (via ECMLink logs). Worked perfect as far as I was concerned.
 
I run a Beck/Arnley 160 thermostat. Run with both fans on all the time and my temps are between 158-165 when cruising and they get to 180 at the most while in heavy traffic. I'm surprised unlike most thermostats this one actually keeps my temps at the temperature of the thermostat.
 
I don't even run a thermostat. My car has issues running hot in the heat with a fat fmic, a/c, and one fan removed. Even though I installed a new bigger aluminum radiator. So I removed the thermostat.

If you look at a thermostat, even when its all the way open its still a significant restriction. The opening of the thermo is significantly smaller then the inside diameter of the passage way.

Anways, before the removal of the thermo my car would eventually peg the gauge no matter the type of driving. Now I can actually drive it. Though if the temp is over 100° out eventually temps will still hit 240°. I just really need to install a slim fan on the a/c side.
 
I don't even run a thermostat. My car has issues running hot in the heat with a fat fmic, a/c, and one fan removed. Even though I installed a new bigger aluminum radiator. So I removed the thermostat.

If you look at a thermostat, even when its all the way open its still a significant restriction. The opening of the thermo is significantly smaller then the inside diameter of the passage way.

Anways, before the removal of the thermo my car would eventually peg the gauge no matter the type of driving. Now I can actually drive it. Though if the temp is over 100° out eventually temps will still hit 240°. I just really need to install a slim fan on the a/c side.

wow that sucks it gets so hot. You think just cause youre missing a fan?
 
I just installed mine. I don't have any data yet but I installed that, took out the evaporater core, installed a 12" 1230cfm pusher fan on the driverside, 100% sealed duct work. I'll be doing a journal update for anyone interested in the info.

I'm going to be optimistic and say I won't heat up much anymore at least when the turbo jet fans come on. My shorts get sucked into the FMIC now :D
 
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