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DG Koni coilovers

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Dennis wasn't concerned with daily driving, his car was 100% autocross, nothing else,. Same as me - that's why I have them on the autocross car but not on the daily driver.


Incidentally, the purpose of Torrington bearings is not to ease ride height changes - that has nothing whatsoever to do with their function. The purpose is to allow one end of the spring to rotate freely, as that is what happens when the suspension moves.


Thanks for that explanation. I had a completely different thought in my head.


Thanks for the pics, Scott. I'm thinking maybe to cover them in red grease prior to installation to help keep them clean and lubed, or, not even running them at all. I plan on autocrossing, but for fun. I don't have a budget to compete.
 
They were talking about torrington bearings and not the upper spherical bearing.

When I install the torrington bearings, I usually spray them down with white lithium grease. But even that doesn't last too long if you daily drive the car. I honestly don't see any way to keep them greased and from getting rusty if you daily the car. Might as well just not run them at that point.
 
When I install the torrington bearings, I usually spray them down with white lithium grease. But even that doesn't last too long if you daily drive the car. I honestly don't see any way to keep them greased and from getting rusty if you daily the car. Might as well just not run them at that point.

Actually, we use Liquid Wrench silicone spray. But lithium grease spray would probably work about the same.
 
They were talking about torrington bearings and not the upper spherical bearing.

Not sure if this was directed at me, but if so, yes I know, so was I. A radial bearing upper mount includes a sealed ball bearing in the spring hat, and provides the same function.

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Very slick - I wonder how the bearing would last though, since radial bearings aren't designed to be used in this manner ? Still, I imagine a big enough bearing would work fine, and that does look like a pretty big bearing.

Of greater interest (to me) are their suspension products - they have available a 2-way setup for 2Gs, and it looks rather promising, and not ruinously expensive either. $1200 for the base rebound-only, and $2250 for a remote canister LSC adjustable upgrade. The 2G isn't explicitly listed on the 2-way upgrade, but I can't imagine it wouldn't be available. A lot easier than building one-off Ohlins !
 
The spherical bearings on the Aurora are teflon, and do not need grease/lunrication. I dont even believe they are ball bearing like the illustration you posted.

The top hat and spring hat are two different things in the DG case, the spring hat, (which seats the bump stop) doesnt have any bearings. Only the top hat like snowboarder said. So basically LOL you were confused i think RWD4g63

Arent you trying to sell a similar suspension in a group buy? These are definately not the same as the ones your offering.
 
He's showing a new upper spring hat design that does have some sort of bearing in it. Notice how it looks like an upper spring hat and not the bearing plate ;)

I noticed. I guess i found it weird we were talking about Torrington bearings and then he jumps in the same conversation talking about bearing spring hats? Maybe I'm the confused one.

Although i dont see how that "new design" would even benefit since from the picture up there the only thing riding on the bearing would be the lower stand off of the top hat.....
 
You are the confused one.

Bearing plate (contains the Aurora bearing) - has nothing to do with the spring.

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Upper spring hat (top part in picture) - is in direct contact with the main spring.

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Here's two images in which you can see both parts. The upper spring hat with the bearing in it would allow the main spring to properly rotate/spin and not bind (in theory, the same effect as using a Torrington bearing at the bottom of the spring setup). I'm assuming the standoff would have to be made to the same size as the bearing or maybe I'm not exactly sure what surface the bearing would ride on.

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You are the confused one.

Bearing plate (contains the Aurora bearing) - has nothing to do with the spring.

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Upper spring hat (top part in picture) - is in direct contact with the main spring.

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Here's two images in which you can see both parts. The upper spring hat with the bearing in it would allow the main spring to properly rotate/spin and not bind (in theory, the same effect as using a Torrington bearing at the bottom of the spring setup). I'm assuming the standoff would have to be made to the same size as the bearing or maybe I'm not exactly sure what surface the bearing would ride on.

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Maybe I'm not confused though. I knownthe difference. Thing is in his illistration the bearing race looked to be on the top part of the spring hat. So it would only contact the lower stand off of the top hat. (The custom cnc bearing plate)

The spring hat already spins on the shaft. The torrington bearing makes sense on the bottom cause there is nothing to allow rotation on the perch.

If the race of his picture was in fact in contact with spring. That would make sense i guess, but the picture didn't point to that that and still wouldn't let the lower end of the spring to rotate
 

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Ninja edited my post :ninja:


I see that. :D

What is your beef with a full dust cover? Afraid the material will get stuck between the coils? I'm thinking more for daily driver, less for a true race car. Weather conditions, especially in NJ, really destroy coilovers. I'm thinking this might give the best protection?
 
I don't necessarily have a beef - just never seen anyone use them, especially teams who race in harsh conditions.

One concern is that something would get pinched/bind in the coils, mainly where the main and helper spring meet, or at each end of the spring setup. I'm not sure if that's a legit concern or not though. Just seems odd to completely cover a part that moves, adjusts, expands, contracts, etc. as a coilover.

Interesting product none the less. Never though I would see it.
 
I got in on the first round. My setup is taking a beating, but still works great. I'll (hopefully) be pulling them off sometime in the next couple weeks to throw a softer set of springs on the car. Unfortunately, I don't get to autox as often as I used to. By that, I mean I haven't raced the car in nearly 2 years, and can't see making it out again for at least a year. I'm swapping the 350# springs from the rear to the front, and I bought 200# springs for the rear.

From the looks of it, my torrington bearings are TOAST. I didn't lube them with anything when I installed them (totally forgot in the excitement) and all they've had is the occasional blast with silicone lube once I saw them rusting. I shoot them every time I spray my control arm bushings down. I lubed the crap out of them when I installed them, and they still need a blast of silicone lube every 3 months now.

And I've been having problems getting the set screw loose on the collars. I sprayed sleeve down with WD-40 and got it to slide without taking the screw loose last time. Then sprayed it down with parts parts cleaner to get the lube off. I'm going to try and get the screws loose while I have the whole assembly pulled this time.
 
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