crank pulled out with engine and tranny still in the car?

[Vancho]

I have a auto tranny, 98 gst that I need to pull out the crank because of spun rod bearings, is it possible to leave the engine and the transmission in the car and still be able to pull out the crank? My buddy was saying there is a window on the transmission or something were I can put a wrench in and unscrew the crank, not really sure about it tho, let me know if someone has done it or if its possible, thanks, oh and I have a diffrent crank im ganna use, so this one isnt going back in

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I'd just push that idea out of your head and drop the engine. A lift and Stand is cheap and it would be the most responsible way to go about this. Pull the block, get it cleaned and properly honed. Take this chance to clean up everything and treat the car right. In return, it'll treat you better.

If you're not satisfied with this - Here

 

[BogusSVO]

You are still going to have to split the engine and trans apart.

The window your buddy is telling you about, is for removing the torque converter nuts/bolts.

Once the converter bolts are out, the converter has to come out, so you can remove the flex plate bolts, those have to come out so you can remove the rear main seal retaing plate.

Now that you have said you have a spun crank, all the oil galles need to washed out, to rid the oil gallies that may have crank metal flake in it, so that will not kill the engine after you replace and fix the crank issue.

So, all in all, with what you need to do, it makes more sense just to pull the engine.
Also take the rods to the machine shop and have the big end bore checked and resized as needed.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

I have a auto tranny, 98 gst that I need to pull out the crank because of spun rod bearings, is it possible to leave the engine and the transmission in the car and still be able to pull out the crank? My buddy was saying there is a window on the transmission or something were I can put a wrench in and unscrew the crank, not really sure about it tho, let me know if someone has done it or if its possible, thanks, oh and I have a diffrent crank im ganna use, so this one isnt going back in

First problem with your plan, is if your using a different crank then what your taking out, you need the block machined to match it.

Second is your friend doesn't know what he is talking about.

Otherwise your set

Is there any particular reason your not using your crank? Normally they can be polished and made usable even after a spun bearing as long as it wasn't catastrophic.

 

[bryanwheat]

First problem with your plan, is if your using a different crank then what your taking out, you need the block machined to match it.

Second is your friend doesn't know what he is talking about.

Otherwise your set

Is there any particular reason your not using your crank? Normally they can be polished and made usable even after a spun bearing as long as it wasn't catastrophic.

What are you talking about. You don't have to machine the block to use a different crank. You just install the correct size bearings and check your clearances. Also USUALLY when you spin a bearing the crank will be damaged beyond polishing.

 

[BogusSVO]

First problem with your plan, is if your using a different crank then what your taking out, you need the block machined to match it.

Second is your friend doesn't know what he is talking about.

Ahhhhh how dose the Block need to be machined for the crank?

Now OP...... Is this the right replacement crank for your car/engine?

Has the crank you want to install be checked out by someone that knows what they are doing?

The crank may need nothing more than a polish?

 

[Vancho]

I have a stock crank that I am goin to be putting in, its cheaper for me to do that then get my messed up crank resurfaced

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Take the replacement Crank and have it checked out. It's probably the smartest thing you can do at this point.

 

[Vancho]

the replacement crank is in pretty good condition, I just don't have a cherry picker to take out the engine, thays why I was wondering if there is a way I can take out the crank without taking out the engine and tranny...

 

[92AWDHX40]

You can rent one or get one from harbor freight great prices, its a investment, i just borrow friends when i pull mine.

 

[bryanwheat]

Most rental stores will rent them for around 30 bucks a day. Spending a few extra bucks for an engine that will last thousands of miles compared to being cheap and having the engine last a few hundred miles is always a good idea.

 

[Vancho]

Ok could I take out the engine but keep the transmission in the car? Is that possible?

 

[phunny]

Ok could I take out the engine but keep the transmission in the car? Is that possible?

Corrected

 

[bryanwheat]

With an auto it is rather easy to leave the transmission in the car. I usually just leave them in and leave the axles installed. You will still need a cherry picker though.

 

[ed1380]

Ok could I take out the engine but keep the transmission in the car? Is that possible?

That's what I do. I take the head off first then take the block out. Assemble it the same way. Its easier to to it that way when you do it by yourself.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

Sorry, brain fart earlier, my little brother had just talked to me about something on his car and it got stuck in my head. At this point though i dont remember what my first point was going to be, .

Working on the engine out of the car is hands down a million times easier then in the car, and for as low as $25 to rent a cherry picker, it's worth it. Also if you have room to store one, keep an eye on craigslist, i bought a really nice one for $60, kept it for the month i needed it then sold it for $80. Not a bad investment in my book.

As far as the transmission, it's been asked before, with an auto if your really set on it, you can rotate the converter, undo the bolts to the flex-plate, and it will separate fairly easily, and sit inside the transmission. (this is true for most auto's I've worked on, not positive on 2G's if it's the same or not.)

I personally pull the transmission with every motor i pull, it's just easier in my opinion, you dont have to fight anything, you can get better angles on it, etc etc.

Also I've never had a crank that was beyond repair, but i understand wanting a fresh undamaged one, so I'm not knocking your decision on that at all, was just curious if you were upgrading because of the opportunity.

 

[Vancho]

so when i bought this car the guy said that all i have to do is hook up some hoses and it should start. so i hooked them up and it started, but the biggest rod knock i have ever heard, when i took off the pan and the lower part of the rod, all of the rods bearings were thinned out to a zero, and on two pistons the rod bearings were on top of each other, and the crank has some major damage, but i have a stock 7 bolt crank, so its easier for me to change out the crank then to get the old one resurfaced

 

[bryanwheat]

Do you realize that you can't just change the crank. The rods that have spun bearings are damaged and will need to be resized and the block will have to be flushed out. You will also want to disassemble the head and clean all the oil passages. There is also a good chance that the oil pump is damaged from the metal in the pan being that it isn't filtered before the filter.

 

[Vancho]

well im changing out the crank, rods the bearings and the pistons because i cant take them out from the rods, , and i will clean out as much shavings as i can, and when im done with it i will change out the oil after the first start, then after 50 miles then after 100 miles then again after 100 miles, then go up to like 250 miles, but i didn't think about the oil pump tho. i do have a extra one that i could change out just to be safe, i think that should be ok, this isnt my little race car, its more of my daily driver, all stock, even the intake and bov, i have a gsx with a 6 bolt that i can play around on the streets with

 

[ed1380]

I'd be more worried about the oil nozzles clogging than the oil pump. Just wash the pump and as long as it isn't gouged bad, you'll be fine.

 

[Anubis_4_99]

well im changing out the crank, rods the bearings and the pistons because i cant take them out from the rods, , and i will clean out as much shavings as i can, and when im done with it i will change out the oil after the first start, then after 50 miles then after 100 miles then again after 100 miles, then go up to like 250 miles, but i didn't think about the oil pump tho. i do have a extra one that i could change out just to be safe, i think that should be ok, this isnt my little race car, its more of my daily driver, all stock, even the intake and bov, i have a gsx with a 6 bolt that i can play around on the streets with

The fact that it isn't your little race car, and is your daily driver, should be all the more reason to do this rebuild properly.

And since your changing the pistons, which means you should be changing the rings, means you will need to have the block honed. Which means pulling the motor anyway.

Pull it, disassemble, have it hot tanked and honed, have the deck checked, have the head cleaned and checked, etc. It's money well spent to prevent hearing that noise again.

 

[Vancho]

So to clean wash the oil pump I put the oil tube in fresh oil and drill the pulley till fresh oil squirts out right?

I am getting new rings, but why do you say I need my block honed?? Never heard of that if your just changing out rings, and the cylinder walls look pretty good, just scuffs no scratches or anthing major, and hot tanked? The engine is pretty clean, only shavings were there isn't supposed to be, but oil will clean that out, my head is going to be checked and cleaned, I am going to be cleaning the block, I belive that's all it needs, a clean from the shavings basicly. And all diffrent but stock internals..

Abd btw I figured I will be taking out the engine, not the tranny, and Anubis I will be doing this rebuild properly, but don't see why the block needs honed, hot tanked, I will clean out all the oil passage ways, let me know if u think there is more that needs to be done

 

[2g awd dsm]

i have recently spun a rod bearing in my 95 talon tsi awd, and i am getting ready to pull and rebuild the motor but still in the debate of what i should buy i wanna build it right. im only running a 16g turbo but would like to upgrade later on. what all should i be looking to replace when rebuilding after spun rod bearing.

 

[ed1380]

Try to get a 98-99 block. Better thrust bearings. And less chance of oil nozzles clogging since its a different block. But for a 16g just replace the damaged rods and get a set of npr pistons off ebay(they're oem).

 

[Archer Fabrications]

ACL Tri metal Race berrings from extremepsi