Balance Shaft Removal with engine still in car?

[4gfun]

I'd like to eliminate the balance shaft so that there is one left thing to worry about.

I have been searching around here a bit and have found varying responses with many of them indicating that it is just too hard to do with the engine in the vehicle.

At this point, the cylinder head is off and so is the timing belt. The thing is, I have never done anything like this and don't want to get myself into a project that I can't handle.

I mean I have pulled the head on these vehicles and done a clutch job before.

Is this much harder?

The last post here (post 16) shows some promise but it is like Greek to me:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...ing-balance-shaft-elimination-engine-car.html

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[4gfun]

Looks like there is an additional washer between the cranks sprocket and the crank bolt. (Well there obviously would be one or I'd never be able to tighten the crank bolt against the crank sprocket without it).

So it looks like mine is stuck inside the crank sprocket as pictured here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/378652-crankshaft-washer.html

Questions:

1) Can I just tighten it with the washer stuck in there or is there any reason I should try to separate it first?

2) I can tighten the crank bolt with my electric impact as tight as it will go, but can't get a torque wrench in there to tighten it since there is nothing to stop the engine from turning (putting it in gear is useless since t-case is down). Should I just tighten it as tight as I can now and check it later?

This is the torque wrench that I am using:

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

It looks like it can deliver up to the 230 ft. lbs but I don't really believe it.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[SonySlave]

Don't worry about the big washer. It gets wedged on the sprocket sometimes but you shouldn't need to remove it. Just tighten the bolt down.

Now on to tightening the bolt down. There are a number of ways to do this. Some have fabricated a piece of tube or pipe the bolts to the crank sprocket using the holes for the crank pulley. Others use giant vice grips around the crank sprocket. If you haven't bolted the oil pan to the engine yet you could wedge a piece of wood between one of the crank counterweights and the block (it works but be extremely careful). If the oil pan is already on then just put the t-case and driveshaft back on and use the "put it in gear" method. Usually I use the block of wood if the oil pan is off but I use a set a huge vicegrips if the oil pan is on.

 

[4gfun]

Don't worry about the big washer. It gets wedged on the sprocket sometimes but you shouldn't need to remove it. Just tighten the bolt down.

Now on to tightening the bolt down. There are a number of ways to do this. Some have fabricated a piece of tube or pipe the bolts to the crank sprocket using the holes for the crank pulley. Others use giant vice grips around the crank sprocket. If you haven't bolted the oil pan to the engine yet you could wedge a piece of wood between one of the crank counterweights and the block (it works but be extremely careful). If the oil pan is already on then just put the t-case and driveshaft back on and use the "put it in gear" method. Usually I use the block of wood if the oil pan is off but I use a set a huge vicegrips if the oil pan is on.

Thanks very much for the help again. I am going to mark this resolved since I only need to do steps 36-38 which are beyond the scope of this thread. If things don't work out, I'll just unresolve it.

I have added/combined everything that I have learned here and experienced to post 42 in this thread just in case someone needs it in the future or I do.

 

[BrandonGSTDSM]

What's 2 pounds of weight in 3000? Lol. Its very simple. Extreme psi sells an OEM stub shaft for $14. Which is really all you need. It replaces the oil pump balance shaft. That's really all you need. No need for the full kit. You just pull the front shaft sprocket off to get the front case off. Once you have the stubby in and the pump back together and the front case back on, you put the sprocket back on to hold the shaft in place. Easy peezy. If you need any further detail, feel free to pm me

You only deleted the front shaft or both? Having trouble thinking on how to do the rear

 

[DSMPT]

You only deleted the front shaft or both? Having trouble thinking on how to do the rear

This thread is old. I don't think he will respond...

You have to cancel both shafts. But the one you have to remove and replace it with a stub shaft is the LH shaft (Intake side), the one driven by an oil pump gear.
The RH shaft (Exhaust side), you can leave the shaft, the sprocket and tensioner pulley in the engine, just remove the balance shaft belt. In this way, you won't need to block off the oil feed ports in the block and the RH balance shaft hole on the front case. You can remove the tensioner pulley if you like, but the tensioner bolt hole must be plugged by a shorter M8 bolt with a bit of RTV applied, otherwise oil would leak.
You can do this with the engine in car by making the engine angled, but I don't personally recommend. It would be a huge PITA due to very limited space, especially if it's 2g and planning to block off the oil ports for the RH shaft by rotating the shaft bearings...