Balance Shaft Removal with engine still in car?

[4gfun]

I'd like to eliminate the balance shaft so that there is one left thing to worry about.

I have been searching around here a bit and have found varying responses with many of them indicating that it is just too hard to do with the engine in the vehicle.

At this point, the cylinder head is off and so is the timing belt. The thing is, I have never done anything like this and don't want to get myself into a project that I can't handle.

I mean I have pulled the head on these vehicles and done a clutch job before.

Is this much harder?

The last post here (post 16) shows some promise but it is like Greek to me:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...ing-balance-shaft-elimination-engine-car.html

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[talonalex92]

Ive done one bsek with the block in the car, with the head off. The biggest pain in the ass, of my entire life. I wont do it that way ever again, its going to save you a lot of headache to just pull the block and do it on a bench or a stand. As if pressing in the bearings isnt enough, you really have to pry/lower/maneuver the engine down substantially to get the front shaft out and properly put the bearings in.

 

[4gfun]

AHHHHH well ok then forget it! WTF

Ive done one bsek with the block in the car, with the head off. The biggest pain in the ass, of my entire life. I wont do it that way ever again, its going to save you a lot of headache to just pull the block and do it on a bench or a stand. As if pressing in the bearings isnt enough, you really have to pry/lower/maneuver the engine down substantially to get the front shaft out and properly put the bearings in.

 

[talonalex92]

If you already have the head off, pop the t case and the axles and just pull the trans/block together. The bsek process will take less than 15 minutes to do.

 

[4gfun]

I was reading that if I can pull the t-case and axles then it makes it easier. I just don't have the nuts to pull the block.

If you already have the head off, pop the t case and the axles and just pull the trans/block together. The bsek process will take less than 15 minutes to do.

 

[Boosted_Jedi]

I helped one of my buddies do his in the car and we had to pry a lot and cut the shadt into pieces as we pulled it out cause we couldnt clear enough space to pull the whole thing out. To top it off the damn plate wont stop leaking now. So double the work he's gonna have to remove it and re-seal it. If you have the means, take out the motor.

 

[Cdc1221]

Pull the rear shaft, use the bsek stubby, leave the front shaft, no belt. You can pull the bs tensioner, but leave the sprocket on the shaft for sealing purposes. This does two things. Keeps you from having to pull the engine, and with the front shaft still in, no worries about high oil pressure like you hear from others who remove it. The only downside is having that extra 2 pounds of weight in your engine .
And yes, I have done this with no ill effect.

 

[4gfun]

I have heard about this method before. I'll research it but was hoping you'd be willing to hold my hand a bit.

For starters, is there a kit or brand that you'd suggest I buy? Are they all identical for this purpose? This seems super easy but I am overwhelmed with other areas so I am taking my time.

I'd honestly rather do without the 2 lbs, but that part can wait until I have the confidence and means to pull the block. Will the remaining parts allow me to do the job the other way later?

i usually buy used 1gs in the 3-5k range with all of this stuff done. This one cost me $700 with a blown head gasket but had no mods. It is a huge change for me.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Pull the rear shaft, use the bsek stubby, leave the front shaft, no belt. You can pull the bs tensioner, but leave the sprocket on the shaft for sealing purposes. This does two things. Keeps you from having to pull the engine, and with the front shaft still in, no worries about high oil pressure like you hear from others who remove it. The only downside is having that extra 2 pounds of weight in your engine .
And yes, I have done this with no ill effect.

 

[Cdc1221]

What's 2 pounds of weight in 3000? Lol. Its very simple. Extreme psi sells an OEM stub shaft for $14. Which is really all you need. It replaces the oil pump balance shaft. That's really all you need. No need for the full kit. You just pull the front shaft sprocket off to get the front case off. Once you have the stubby in and the pump back together and the front case back on, you put the sprocket back on to hold the shaft in place. Easy peezy. If you need any further detail, feel free to pm me

 

[4gfun]

It all adds up captain!

It does sound easy peezy . I'll PM you if I have any issues.
Thanks

What's 2 pounds of weight in 3000? Lol. Its very simple. Extreme psi sells an OEM stub shaft for $14. Which is really all you need. It replaces the oil pump balance shaft. That's really all you need. No need for the full kit. You just pull the front shaft sprocket off to get the front case off. Once you have the stubby in and the pump back together and the front case back on, you put the sprocket back on to hold the shaft in place. Easy peezy. If you need any further detail, feel free to pm me

 

[Steve93Talon]

Pull the rear shaft, use the bsek stubby, leave the front shaft, no belt. You can pull the bs tensioner, but leave the sprocket on the shaft for sealing purposes. This does two things. Keeps you from having to pull the engine, and with the front shaft still in, no worries about high oil pressure like you hear from others who remove it. The only downside is having that extra 2 pounds of weight in your engine .
And yes, I have done this with no ill effect.

This is how I usually do it, works great.

 

[4gfun]

Is this what you all are referring to?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Part number MD098626 in the kit?

Thanks

 

[Cdc1221]

That's for if you plan to eliminate both shafts. This is for just the rear shaft EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks for clarifying. Pretty excited about increasing reliability and keeping things simple.

That's for if you plan to eliminate both shafts. This is for just the rear shaft EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts.

 

[Mischif]

Its easy to do the balance shaft elimination with the engine in the car on a 1g. Remove the cross members. put a jack or something under the front engine mount. Then remove the driver side mount. Lower the jack until the engine hangs down as far as it will go. The rear mount and tranny mount will hold the engine in place just fine, and allows it to tilt giving tons of room to pull the shafts.

 

[talonalex92]

Im not sure about a 1g, but when I did it, even with the drivers mount off, the cross member off, both roll stops disconnected and the tranny mount loosened, it still needed a lot of forcing and prying down, probably 2 or 3 inches. Your best bet is going to be just leave the front one in without the belt if you aren't able or comfortable removing the block. The 2 pounds is nothing.

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Might as well take it out, only way I did it was with three of the four mounts disconnected and it leaning hard to the driver side. With that much work its best just to pull the motor but its possible.

 

[DSM1G90]

But, you leave the front shaft in.

Just do the rear one to make life easier. Just don't forget to turn the bearings to cover up the oil galley holes.

 

[4gfun]

Thanks all. Feel to contribute more if you'd like. It may be a bit before I get down there to do this but keeping the thread open for when I get to it.

 

[Steve93Talon]

But, you leave the front shaft in.

Just do the rear one to make life easier. Just don't forget to turn the bearings to cover up the oil galley holes.

If you leave the front shaft in, there's no need to turn any bearings.

 

[bryanwheat]

But, you leave the front shaft in.

Just do the rear one to make life easier. Just don't forget to turn the bearings to cover up the oil galley holes.

IF you are leaving the front shaft in place than there is really no need to turn the bearings with the shaft still there. The rear bearing doesn't have to be turned, because there is no oil hole in the block for it. The rear shaft feeds oil to the bearing surface thru the shaft. I recommend taking both shafts out. The way i look at it, is that there is no reason to halfway do the job when you are already have the oil pump off.

 

[bryanwheat]

I was reading that if I can pull the t-case and axles then it makes it easier. I just don't have the nuts to pull the block.

IF you can do this balance job correctly than you can easily pull the short block out of the car. You are already going to have the transfer case removed if you are doing this job. The transfer must be removed to remove the oil pan. The oil pan must be removed to get the oil pump off.

 

[92AWDHX40]

You'll be glad once its done

 

[4gfun]

So I still have to pull the T-Case to do the job even half way? Not sure if I read that right.

IF you are leaving the front shaft in place than there is really no need to turn the bearings with the shaft still there. The rear bearing doesn't have to be turned, because there is no oil hole in the block for it. The rear shaft feeds oil to the bearing surface thru the shaft. I recommend taking both shafts out. The way i look at it, is that there is no reason to halfway do the job when you are already have the oil pump off.

 

[4gfun]

How much further would I have to go? I have removed the oil pan on my GVR4 with your advice in the past. I have removed the T-Case in that car quite a few times as well.

IF you can do this balance job correctly than you can easily pull the short block out of the car. You are already going to have the transfer case removed if you are doing this job. The transfer must be removed to remove the oil pan. The oil pan must be removed to get the oil pump off.