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crank pulled out with engine and tranny still in the car?

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Vancho

10+ Year Contributor
75
0
Oct 9, 2011
spokane, Washington
I have a auto tranny, 98 gst that I need to pull out the crank because of spun rod bearings, is it possible to leave the engine and the transmission in the car and still be able to pull out the crank? My buddy was saying there is a window on the transmission or something were I can put a wrench in and unscrew the crank, not really sure about it tho, let me know if someone has done it or if its possible, thanks, oh and I have a diffrent crank im ganna use, so this one isnt going back in
 
ok thanks to you all for your opinions. but yes i am running a 16g but i would like to upgrade later on idk to what tho. but i would like to build my block pretty decent. ed1380 would you say buying a newer block would be the best way? and another question for you all, i have heard since i spun a rod i may as well need a new block anyways is this true or couldnt i just get it machined??
 
The block shouldn't be damaged from the spun rod bearing, if it spun a main than it would need to be machined. I wouldn't consider rebuilding any 2g 7 bolt without replacing the oil jets.
 
acl main and rod bearings, wiseco pistons?, eagle or manley rods?, manley crank? or would it be ok to just get a new stock crank?, arp main/head studs, arp rod bolts, cometic head gasket, where can i get a good oem full gasket kit. let me know what u think about this and what else should i get im a noob still but tryin to get this done. LOL
 
For a 16g? Complete overkill. Any bearings will do because they're made in only a few countries and just repackaged. I had a set from topline that were actually acl.

+1 on topline and enginetech they're usually king bearing and every now and then you get acl's :hellyeah:
 
If you can find a 98-99 block cheap, then definitely go for it. I've never used a topline kit, but I bought their timing belt and it was contitech(oem for Audi)

If your goals are over 350-400hp then I would start looking at forged parts. Eagle/ wiseco is a common combo, good for 600hp.

For a stock bottom end, use just arp headstuds and rod studs. If you're going forged then also get around main studs.

Running a stroker will give you faster spool, greater torque, but I wouldn't rev it past 7500(not like you'll need to) You will need forged pistons for it, because the piston pin has to be located 6mm higher to account for the 12mm longer stroke. If you choose this path, then also get eagle rods and acl tri-metal bearings. Then get a hx-35 for cheap and use the saved money to help pay for a built trans :thumb:

As for cranks-the stock ones hold almost triple digit numbers. I wouldn't worry about a forged one. For 350-400hp you can use a cut crank, just make sure it was milled good. Over 400hp I would start looking for an uncut crank.
<- Click classifieds under my name :D
 
ok so if i went with that route and go over 400 ill get a uncut one but by that do u mean a forged one or just a brand new stock one??? and also how much does that hx 35 cost. and in the end what do u think this build would cost saying you do all the work yourself besides the machine work.
 
ok so if i went with that route and go over 400 ill get a uncut one but by that do u mean a forged one or just a brand new stock one??? and also how much does that hx 35 cost. and in the end what do u think this build would cost saying you do all the work yourself besides the machine work.

A new oem will cost as much as a forged crank, Uncut meaning it's factory size, not remanufactured.

hx35's go for $250-300 shipped. With a mitsu bolt on housing it's around $400-450

around $800 for eagle rods and stroker pistons. Used is cheaper.
 
so are you saying a topline rebuild kit off of ebay isnt bad?

+1 on topline and enginetech they're usually king bearing and every now and then you get acl's :hellyeah:

Nobody should waste money on Topline parts you will just end up with oil pumps an waterpumps that seize an piston that have casting flaws an crack ringlands.... not worth the trouble to "might" get what part you want.....
 
Look man, it really is pretty simple. Any forged piston/rod combo you go with is going to be fine for your needs. I personally am going to go with a Manley rod/Wiseco piston combo.

You should save your self tons of hassle, oil leak problems etc. by purchasing an OEM Mitsu gasket set, oil pump and water pump. Any forged rod you buy with have ARP bolts already. ARP headstuds are a great idea too. If you are to run ARP main studs the block will need a line hone. A micropolished uncut crankshaft is all that is necessary. Plenty of folks in 800+HP range on one.

Some people are going to say take a chance with Topline because they had ok results with them. Personally, I would go with the tried and true parts on something as important as an engine. OEM timing componets etc.

Strokers are overrated IMO. Just more low end torque to break parts. You can always spend hours searching and find tons of factual information to back the things I have stated. Good luck with the build though, and remember in most instances, you get what you pay for!
 
yea im probably just gonna buy a stock 6 bolt possibly tear it apart and add acl bearings, all the arp main/head/rod studs and bolts, pretty much the whole thing just stock crank possibly stock rods and pistons. i dont know since people are telling me stock internals willbe just fine.
 
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