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ECUflash CeddyMod v1 (EcuFlash)

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Ceddy can correct me but I think there are a few other maps/tables for things like initial injector pulse widths and cold start enrichment that may need tweeking to be perfect with the larger injectors but should work ok as is.

The lowest value in the DeadTime table (4.69 v) is used as a Cranking PulseWidth during startup. There isn't a table like the 1Gs and Evos have.

The are some other Start Up/Cold Start Enrichment values that can be changed, but I haven't added them to the definition because I didn't see a need and they don't have a user friendly scaling.

With 1150s my car starts in 1/2 a second, with no FP Solenoid and a worn out starter. But if people are having issues, I can add a few more values to the definition to tweak.



running 1000 pte injectors. put the scaling on dsm iinjector scaling nstead of evo. cold start is at around 11-1 and when warmed up at idle is still around there. stft is at 5%. how do i lean it out? if i do lean it out at idle would it affect the whole powerband? am I set to drive like this until I get a tune later? WOT? thanks

If you are not running Full Time Open Loop, AFR is control by the Front O2 sensor at idle. You should be at 14.7 within 30 seconds or so of startup.

DeadTime(Latency) control AFRs at idle.

Injector Size control AFRs at WOT.

5% fuel trim isn't that bad. But you want to look at LTFT.



Hey people ceddy has asked a few times to please not fill up this thread with tuning question and stuff like that so please take all tuning question to this thread, and that is where you ask for help with your tuning issues. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...shed-dsm-ecu-98-99-flashing-faq-new-post.html

I've given up trying to keep the thread on topic and just info. I can long longer edit the first post anyway, so all FAQs, Links, Info will be posted on my web site instead of here.
 
I think an ECT enrichment should be in the definition, as it seems necessary for SD. My car runs like ass when the ECT is under 50-60`F, it did on the Evo 8 ECU with SD as well. Idle is decent, but when I try to take off it wants to die ridiculously easy. I thought simply adding some accel enrich would do the trick, but it didn't seem to.

I'm not currently running SD as I just got cams that are way more aggressive and haven't gotten to try out my VE map adjustments yet (VE is MUCH lower on the low end with the new cams). My SD 15:1 idle became 11-12:1, and running on the MAF I had to turn the BISS out 3+ rounds to get it to idle. Maybe it's just the hot weather, but I've been getting better mileage with the new cams.
 
I was wondering if anyone else was having the knock light come on for low rpm heavy foot boost. Like if you are in a good gear but not spooled up yet and it comes on slower. I am getting knock and it don't feel like its pulling correctly. It comes on from start to finish of my rev.

But any other time when I let it spool hard it is fine, no knock ever. It only happens when I grab it low. Is there something I need to adjust?
 
Is there something I need to adjust?

Watch your AFR in a log when you go WOT from 2-2.5k, if it goes leaner than 13:1 for any amount of time, try increasing acceleration enrichment. MBT timing should not be knock limited at least until you start seeing positive boost at a low rpm.
 
I am going to do a log tonight when it cools off outside. I never had this problem with the 16g only since I upgraded to SCM-6152e

With a turbo upgrade like that, the air flow is going to be different at a given RPM.

How are you liking the upgrade? I just went from a 16G to a 50 Trim.
 
I started with stock big maps 2 times since turbo upgrade. Once for meth install and now again started at stock for manifold and wastegate upgrade.

I like it only cause my 16g spooled up to quick for daily driving. IDK some call me crazy for saying that, but when I would let someone like my dad drive my car it would catch him off guard he would take off then get off it so quick you could hear my engine slap around in the engine bay. Stuff like that was getting annoying and I did a rebuild and I am planning to be in the 25-30psi range and the 16g is a b$#* after 5k so on to the new turbo.

I really don't mind waiting til 3800-4000 for the nice punch I get. 2 step had to be raised to 5200 w/5800 anti-lag to get this turbo to pull. The 16g was @ 3800 2step and 4000 anti-lag for the same take off.

I would suggest something smaller to someone now looking to make more then 500hp tho.

I just got the FP manifold on this and this turbo is amazing now. I'm sure with the BB,upgraded intake manifold, SP cover & t3 turbine housing this would be a beast turbo setup.

UPDATE - Just found a AWD dyno and hour away so I guess its time for some numbers!!!! I am going noon tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Have another update to CeddyMods, now at version 1.9B.
Download here -> http://ceddy.us/?page_id=16

There was an issue with using Pin #91 (Park/Neutral Switch) for NLTS.
The ecu would think an Auto Trans was attached and do some funky stuff.

To remain compatible with Autos and have NLTS, the NLTS connection has been moved to Pin #44 (Free Input).


If you have things hooked up for NLTS the old way, you should change.

Pin #91 should be grounded. (The stock connection goes to ground)

Pin #44 should be connected to the Clutch Safety Switch.

Map Select has been labeled, "For Debug Only", last couple of versions. Map Select should not be used, as it causes issues with the Auto Trans code also.


Coolant Temp Fuel Enrichment map has also been added to definition.
 
Sweet, thank you. I love NLTS and I really didn't want to disable it. I would love to try it out now but my trans is almost dead and I have a rod knock so rain check? :banghead:
 
I really need to get the SD up and running. I dyno'd @ 344hp@6500 278ft-lbs at 20psi and 11.2afr max tq. was 325@4500 (when my turbo hits).

YouTube - 98 Eclipse GSX - 20 PSI - 6152 - Meth - HKS272

On the way home I was trying to get alittle more power. The 344hp was putting me in 280load cell. Shop suggested if I was on meth to lower AFR. When I changed afr to 11.8 on my maps I got into load cell 300. Which if I understand the 2g MAS max is 310 so I need to get SD running.

Could this be why my car doesn't like more then 21psi or it starts bucking and missing or is that spark related. I don't have logs of it sorry.
 
Nice numbers for 20 psi!

The 2G MAF limit is the 310-320 Load area. (About 50 lb/min)

I'm in the process of writing a How-To for the 3D VE% Speed Density.

If you could get a couple logs with:

2Byte AirCounts MAF
2Byte AirCounts SD
AirCount VE% Change
Load 1Byte
Throttle Position
Engine RPM
Boost Omni 4 BAR kPa (Think you have Omni 4 Bar?)

I could help you make base VE map.

The Boost Axis for SD MAP Calibration and SD Volumetric Efficiency need to be changed to MAP 10 Bit (Omni 4 BAR) and rescaled. Email me your rom if you don't know how to do this.
 
I can send logs with everything but 1byteload if that helps, if not tomorrow maybe tomorrow night. Just florida day time sucks for tuning.
 
Ok so I'm fixing boost leaks and we'll see whats going on HP wise when I'm done. Also see how far off the VE% are in the SD stuff ceddy sent me.

I was getting .3 psi @ intake manifold so now I'm up to 12psi with leaking injector seals. I had to order ones for my 1200cc Lucas injectors.

I had a question if anyone with 1 speed coolant fans modified there fan tables to something better suited for the 2 fans 1 speed vs. 2 fans 3 speed? I haven't sat down and made up my mind what to change any suggestion is settings?

108758d1271964577-ceddymod-v1-ecuflash-fan2gb.jpg
 
This is what I have for stock fans right now.

Basically I want to keep my temps under 200.

Lows come on at 197 off at 192

Highs come on at 200 off at 197


Just replaced thermostat with a 170 degree, as well am running a 70/30 water/coolant mix for summer.

When I have time I will get some decent temp recordings for different situations.
 

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The reason I didn't go lower then a 180 thermostat was because I was told its important for the engine to stay at operating temp and 180 was the lowest to go. I forget the factors to why but maybe someone else could enlighten us. But I'm sure if you are fighting cooling problem that could help.
 
The reason I didn't go lower then a 180 thermostat was because I was told its important for the engine to stay at operating temp and 180 was the lowest to go. I forget the factors to why but maybe someone else could enlighten us. But I'm sure if you are fighting cooling problem that could help.

I was aware of this when I went shopping for a thermostat. Autozone only had the OEM one and a 170, which I bought.

Even with the 170, my temps still usually hover around 185. The reason for staying above 180 is for closed loop operation. This doesn't affect me though since I use full time open loop.
 
The reason I didn't go lower then a 180 thermostat was because I was told its important for the engine to stay at operating temp and 180 was the lowest to go. I forget the factors to why but maybe someone else could enlighten us. But I'm sure if you are fighting cooling problem that could help.

Below 180* F the ecu will start to do things because the motor is cold. Some compensations will be activated that reduced timing advance, etc.

I'm not that knowledgeable with engine internals, but I believe you need the engine fully up to temp so the pistons can fully expand and fit the cylinder. Otherwise you can get piston slap, or damage something under full boost.
 
instead of buying the big maps (needed something asap). my tuner rescaled the small maps to 240 load and the ignition map. is there something wrong with that? idle is good, wot is good with a max of 2 count of knock max. af is still too rich. didn't finish tuning due to a slipping clutch. don't mess with centerforce. this is the second centerforce and both slips.
 
How is your a/f ratio too rich? Is it tune related? Injectors scaled? W/B 02 sensor used or regular 02?

Can you post your ROM file maybe we can take a look. Also if you making enough power is $20 that hard. I'm not trying to be negative.

If your not going to come near the MAX airflow I'd say you'll be fine, but my concern is over boost conditions where alittle extra couldn't hurt.

Is it smooth, do you feel anything holding it back? Is your knock in cells your can't edit?

Recompile on Evo Forums showed how to rescale correctly.

And I have only driven and installed ACT's both 2600 and 2900 love them. Centerforce on the other hand I didn't like the STOCK feeling, this is AWD with HP behind it, I personally wanna feel the power in my foot so I know whats going on with engagement.
 
instead of buying the big maps (needed something asap). my tuner rescaled the small maps to 240 load and the ignition map. is there something wrong with that? idle is good, wot is good with a max of 2 count of knock max. af is still too rich. didn't finish tuning due to a slipping clutch. don't mess with centerforce. this is the second centerforce and both slips.

Rescaling the stock maps is fine.

But an issue that may arise is poor driveability in vacuum and low load.

In vacuum there is a wide range of timing 5* - 38* in the stock maps. Abrupt large changes in timing can cause driveability issues. Thats why 70% of the stock maps is in vacuum, so there can be a more gradual timing change.

By rescaling the stock maps for more boost resolution, you lose vacuum resolution.

If you are not having any issues I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Whats everyone been up too? Some times it feels so dead on here. I got my injector seals so my boost leaks should be near fixed. Ceddy what have you been working on? When I don't see a lot of post from you I know your busy on the coding. Are you still working on switching to the new ROM revision
 
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