Best Turbo? [Merged 9-9] turbocharger upgrade

[hukster00]

hi, i wona upgrade my turbo on the gsx, and there is so many choices dont know which one to buy, so i asking you pepz wich turbo is best for under 1k for street/strip setup thanks,

 

[viprez586]

E316G FTW!
It's what I will be running and it's going to be nice for those 8-10psi stutterbox holeshots that leave mustangs with their jaws on the floor.

 

[dikdiamond]

Make sure you have a 14b first,here is a link to to help out http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/313105-16g-serial-numbers.html

The 14b is a pretty stout turbo,take a look around the forums. You could try porting it. I upgraded to a small 16g,my 13g crapped out and I got a great deal on a rebuilt one,though I had intended to buy a 14b then go to an EvoIII. I A boost controller would help out too.

 

[zhjiln]

bulleyes To4B V-trim ...great street turbo capable of 400hp ... only $570

or bulleyes 50 trim $ 650+ ....

 

[sleeping95gsx]

The 14b has a lot of potential (if thats what you have). Its put many close to the tens with supporting mods of course. Save your money for now, keep the 14b, get a front mount, a mbc, and a 2g exh. mani if you really wanna get crazy . Cheap upgrades that will make for a very good streetable car.

 

[gt35rx]

Go with a bigger turbo only if you have the supporting mods. On my DD I ran a 50 trim. The thing I enjoyed most was cruising on the freeway not in boost; Saved my gas milage. Also when running a bigger turbo, you dont have to worry about turning up the boost so high to get the same results you would with a smaller turbo.

 

[fergulus]

If you are only going to be using this car for daily driving, I would go with the 16g. Anything bigger and you will notice alot more turbo lag, which isnt conducive to driving around town. You also won't need a big FMIC, your sidemount will still work. Putting that FMIC on causes alot of people to have overheating issues, and if you arent trying to push 20+psi why worry about it?

 

[viperlp01]

I have a 16g and daily my car... 12.6 is pretty quick... Next mod built block and hx40..

 

[pboglio]

A 20g with an external will put you way over $1000, an internally gated EVO3 16g half that. I'd agree an EVO3 16g even on 20 psi is still a fun car, even in scorching hot weather it still feels good.
That is what makes it a nice daily driver, it just feels good all the time and is always spooling like a supercharged motor. You don't have the crushing midrange torque on that low of a boost setting, but the topend is still good since it eventually drops off to 20-22 psi anyways near redline.

On race gas and high boost, whole other story, the torque comes on so hard the only thing going on in your head is, "Hold onto the steering wheel with both hands. Please tranny, just don't blow up again, just hold together baby."

Everybody has them for a reason, they work outstanding and they are inexpensive. The 20g is great too, looks like +50 h.p. on top of an EVO3 16g. Spool vs. power, always the same debate.

 

[buddy3824]

i dont run a MAF with the fuel controller i have. and i think i have a 14b because the car was mainly stock when i got it besides the fuel pump and vpc and gcc. it sounds like the best bet is to get a big EVO III 16g and upgrade to fmic, mani, and probably a better intake.

what is a mbc and what do you mean by a 50 trim?

mbc = manual boost controller

 

[quayzar590awd]

yes he meant manual boost controller. "trim" I think in his case meant the size of either the cold or hot side of the turbo he was talking about. I have run a few evoIII big 16g over the years. They are good turbos. They can flow a lot of air when needed. When 10 seconds is not fast enough then upgrade again. Yes there are dsm's that go low to mid 10's on big 16g's.

 

[viperlp01]

maybe not low 10s but they go fast.. You can not daily a 10 sec 16g comfortbly.. It would be completly gutted and have super stiff suspension running race gas, spraying meth, on a built engine..... I really cant see a DD 16 any lower than low 12s/high 11s... TRIM refers to the ratio between the inducer of the turbo and exducer of the turbo.. My 16g i believe is a 54 trim

 

[gorf]

I just moved to a 20G from E3 16G. I just started trying to tune it so I am no guru yet.

My first impressions, the 20g actually starts spooling quicker than the e3, but reaches full boost a couple hundred rpm later. The 16g is known for hitting boost and power band all at once. The 20g starts pulling at lower RPM and just keeps pulling! This makes it much more streetable than the e3 and gives more HP potential. Cost - look for a used one, there is guy on this board that rebuilds and sells 20G's for under $500.

 

[viperlp01]

Im running an ebay evo 3(no need to flame, I know not everyone has my luck) and went 12.6 at 109 and I DD this car.... I spent MAYBE 250 bucks total and about 25k miles and still no shaft play.. Im pushing 25 psi.. I have to take away timing on Dsmlink but boost is better than timing... Next mod.. Holset hx 40 with the bolt on housing

 

[dsm-onster]

Well Im going to upgrade from a T25. And I did the math amd in order for me to get the HX runnning, including, FP mani, DSM housing, recirc 38mm o2 housing, 255 pump and afpr it came out to ~$1500. So Im looking for a better alternative to this...but not considering the E3 as an option, I need something bigger.

I'm just really not understanding this. Why add the cost of an exhaust manifold upgrade when youre going to run a stock exhaust manifold with another turbo to save money??? The bolton hx35 has done 11.2 at 126 with both manifolds stock. . .

You need the 255 for an evo3 16g or any turbo that is bigger. . .

You need an AFPR because you'll be running the 255. . .

The hx35 costs the same as an evo3 16g to bolton to your car (less than any other that's bigger than a 16g) and use either at their potential. . . You need jpipe and oil lines and water lines. You need a bolton housing for the hx. You don't need any water lines for the hx and the tie into the IC piping doesn't require getting a jpipe. As well, you'll likely be fine with just an adapter for the t25 oil feed line to the holset oil inlet (check oil pressure with a Tee at the turbo of course). You have b-shafts and you have a restrictive feed line. Hell you even already have the oil gauge. Just modify your t25 return line.

You already have the turbo. The cost to install it is about the same. The spool is more linear (still about the same spool speed as a 16g). You already have enough fuel for it. It will flow 3-4lb/min more in the midrange at only 20psi than a 16g (I already proved that about a year and a half ago). And even if the big honkin' BEP internal flapper blows open it will still have more topend than the evo3 16g. And you don't need $700+ in manifold upgrades to make 450+ whp. Why are you stopping in the middle of your project?

95greenGSX, the hx40 spools about the same as a gt30r so you'll be happy. Smaller isn't more streetable here.

 

[SimpleSecurity]

Street turbo, that bolts on? Why not consider the e316g? You want something under 1500$ with potential for 400+ hp/tq???

With my own experience I would say e316g, I have used that turbo from basically a stock form GSX to where I am at now. Which is in both the 400+HP/TQ area.

E316G is pretty dang cheap to compared to a lot of turbos, I only have experience with the e316g for that size of turbo(no experience running a holset or 20g or anything like that)

My next turbo well be a BW S259 bolt on.

Heres a log, if you have ecmlink you can view it....just posting up my number to back my 400+ claim.

400+hp/tq log

This log was taking yesterday, running 21-22psi, well you can see on the log.

 

[xezerax]

I recently upgraded from a e316g to a pte5457, but the only reason i upgraded was the major shaft play i had, i was more than happy with that turbo. It made 312whp on pump on a dyno dynamics with stock cams and stock manifolds, it beat plenty of worked evos sti's camaros ect.. I havent gotten around to the dyno or track yet with the 5457 but the spool isnt that much worse and the top end pulls much better.

..also this is a journal 5457 with a bolton housing

 

[dsm-onster]

Street turbo, that bolts on? Why not consider the e316g? You want something under 1500$ with potential for 400+ hp/tq???

. . .I think we're all a little confused about the $1500 cost issue. . . There's loads of turbos that bolton for under $1500 and do alot more than the 16g. s256/8/9, td06sl2 18g/20g, fp green, scm 5032, h1c/h1e/hx35/hx40. The scm 5031 is about $500-600 less. so is the 20g. The 18g is less than half of that $1500. And the holsets and 16gs are about 1/3rd of that $1500. . .

 

[the_mork]

IMO it is going to be heavily dependent on your goals. A 16g is a great turbo for a DD but everyone has this fetish for the evo3 16g which really should be looked at more closely. If you are not going to push the 16g to its absolute limits then something like a small 16g should be considered. IIRC it flows about 4lbs/min less than the evo3 16g but has noticeably faster spool and absolutely no downsides as long as you are not ranging into the territory between its max flow and the evo3's max flow which 95% of e3 16g users aren't. I think at this point it is fairly certain that the standard big 16g is not a good choice. It spools like the evo3 16g but flows only about 2lbs/min more than the small 16g.

I know I wish that I had chosen the small 16g. My car is powerful fairly well equipped but without cams I don't think I can push the difference between where the two turbos would flow.

 

[jjrock5]

HX35 housing with install lines(from SBR)= $390
Recirc 38mm o2 housing= $550
FP main= $200
255 lph pump= $90
AFPR= $210

Total= $1440

Now this is obviously using all new parts and lines and not taking into account reusing or modifying old lines, ALSO the fact that Im going to need the recirc o2 housing, there's the biggie (since I wouldn't need this if the turbo were internally gated). No matter what, my budget involved getting the FP mani with any turbo...

THIS is how I got my $1500.

 

[bastarddsm]

Wow it seems that this damn turbo is haunting me everytime I ask this question...

Maybe this IS the best way to go. Honestly, my reason for not wanting this turbo is because everybody and their grandma has it... I just didnt want to do the 'typical' setup. But I guess the reason ppl use it is because it's proven.

Theres a reason everybody has an EIII 16g. They work. It has the highest bang for $$ out of any bolt-on turbo. It's not even hard to run in the 11's with one and some E85. Honestly, 14b spool and 400whp, all for $600. you can't beat that.

 

[xezerax]

^^^ agreed

 

[jjrock5]

. . .I think we're all a little confused about the $1500 cost issue. . . There's loads of turbos that bolton for under $1500 and do alot more than the 16g. s256/8/9, td06sl2 18g/20g, fp green, scm 5032, h1c/h1e/hx35/hx40. The scm 5031 is about $500-600 less. so is the 20g. The 18g is less than half of that $1500. And the holsets and 16gs are about 1/3rd of that $1500. . .

This entire statment proves what Ive been trying to ask and the whole reason for this thread. I knew there were more turbos out there, I just wanted to get ppls opinions.

 

[habitatguy187]

Just buy the internally gated housing.

 

[buddy3824]

i see. so is a is higher trim just a stat for a compressor wheel or is it a reference that i need to go by for the amount of airflow i want to run?

 

[95eclipser]

i would deff say 20g. or a PTE 28, if its just for everyday most people get enough wiht the 16g just my
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