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Best Turbo? [Merged 9-9] turbocharger upgrade

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hukster00

20+ Year Contributor
92
0
Dec 10, 2001
Budd_Lake_NJ
hi, i wona upgrade my turbo on the gsx, and there is so many choices dont know which one to buy, so i asking you pepz wich turbo is best for under 1k for street/strip setup thanks,
 
HX35 housing with install lines(from SBR)= $390
Recirc 38mm o2 housing= $550
FP main= $200
255 lph pump= $90
AFPR= $210


Total= $1440

Now this is obviously using all new parts and lines and not taking into account reusing or modifying old lines, ALSO the fact that Im going to need the recirc o2 housing, there's the biggie (since I wouldn't need this if the turbo were internally gated). No matter what, my budget involved getting the FP mani with any turbo...

THIS is how I got my $1500.

Everything in bold you need to get the most out of the evo3 16g. And you do NOT need to get the hx35 to bolton, nor to get at least the same power out of an hx35 car as an evo3 16g car that doesn't have those modifications. These have nothing to do with the turbo nor hold it bak to a level below the evo3 16g. You can run your original exhaust manifold, internal gate the turbo. <==that combo has gone 11.2sec at 126mph when the external was added. In the meantime you can enjoy the same power as any maxed out 16g car that would have the manifold upgrades.

And who runs even an evo3 16g with out a wally 255? You don't need to run more than a 190 with an evo3 16g or an hx35. Both turbos you have to keep the boost down. I've personally seen a 190LPH pump overrun a stock FPR, so you may need one anyway. I don't understand why it takes $1500 to bolton this turbo to perform at the same level as the 16g. It's not like it spools slow. And it's not like you don't already have the hx35, and fuel mods in your hands. . .

Just helping out here. You really are very close to a low 11 second car. You just need whatever supporting mods the evo3 16g needs and you're on your way to an easy 450whp. (perhaps later getting an internal gate to insure that once you're ready for more than 16g power). You'll need more than fuel mods cams and front mount to get that out of the 16g always. No matter when the flapper blows open, The difference is the hx35 flows more at the same boost. You'll blow open the flapper just as easily with a 16g as you will with an internally gated hx35. It will blow open at abotu the same level of performance too. . . Difference is the hx35 can do it at 3-4psi less, this could be the difference of the fp manifold and race gas for a 16g :)

My ultimate suggestion is to do this:

Recirc 38mm o2 housing= $550
Bep housing for $250
Feed with the stock lines with adapters ($30?)
Ditch the manifold upgrade
Use those fuel upgrades that you would have needed for the evo3 16g

After you upgrade cams, I challenge anyone here to match that setup in performance with a 16g. The bolton hx35 with stock manifolds is showing 48+ lb/min all over the link forums. . . So why get a 16g and after the install kit ($175 from MAP) pay only $125 less for a 16g swap? Or at best find a used return line for $50 feed line for $10 water lines for $20 an j pipe for $25; and pay $195 less minus all that extra shipping. You can get the external gate setup later and make up for that difference in cost plus some and have a turbo that STILL outperforms a 16g.
 
i love my Bolt on HX35

and as dsm-onster said, all those in bolt you will need with any turbo
but you ca get a Evo IX pump($50) and no need or a AFPR, thats what i run


Street turbo, that bolts on? Why not consider the e316g? You want something under 1500$ with potential for 400+ hp/tq???

With my own experience I would say e316g, I have used that turbo from basically a stock form GSX to where I am at now. Which is in both the 400+HP/TQ area.

E316G is pretty dang cheap to compared to a lot of turbos, I only have experience with the e316g for that size of turbo(no experience running a holset or 20g or anything like that)

My next turbo well be a BW S259 bolt on.

Heres a log, if you have ecmlink you can view it....just posting up my number to back my 400+ claim.

400+hp/tq log

This log was taking yesterday, running 21-22psi, well you can see on the log.


ill look at this log later but i can tell you for a fact you are no making 400+AWHP on only 21psi LOL

i bet you are more like 270AWHP haha
 
What do you think would better seeing all my cost issues yet looking at future expanding: buying the internal gate or the recirc 38mm o2?
 
What do you think would better seeing all my cost issues yet looking at future expanding: buying the internal gate or the recirc 38mm o2?

cost effective, would be internally gated, but its hard to find one. i could not get one. so i went with a 44mm off the o2

a 38mm will be just fine off the o2 though


im my opnion i had a B16g@25psi and it sucked, i now have my HX35 @28psi and when it was at 20psi was alot morefun to drive then the 16g is at 25psi LOL
 
There's no real answer for that question. It depends on what you wanna do. Road Race? Drag Race? Street/ Strip? How much power do you wanna make? 300? 400? 700? There is no "best turbo" out there.
 
Theres a reason everybody has an EIII 16g. They work. It has the highest bang for $$ out of any bolt-on turbo. It's not even hard to run in the 11's with one and some E85. Honestly, 14b spool and 400whp, all for $600. you can't beat that.

This pretty much sums up the whole debate on the E3 16g..The only bad things i've heard about it so far in this thread is that other turbo's make more power hah. Is that not enough? And that one guy had bad shaft play on his(probably used more than 50k miles). I don't have personal experience with the 16g yet, but absolutely gunna buy it! :thumb:
 
^^^That's the only reason why you upgrade. So that's a fairly important reason. . . Like paramount! Especially when it spools nearly as fast and costs about the same. So the 'bang for the buck' phrase is actually very wrong. . .

ApexVIII, I saw his logs and hes not even at 42lb/min. I seriously doubt hes at a real 400whp either. I think he's stating that he's in the relm. . .Albeit, bearly. I dont know too many guys who make 10 WHEEL horsepower per lb/min. Not at this flow level.
 
What do you think would better seeing all my cost issues yet looking at future expanding: buying the internal gate or the recirc 38mm o2?

I always recommend an external for the hx35. Because ultimately 99% of those running the hx35 what a good 450whp turbo, and I can see that hard to attempt without the flapper blowing open. Some other options. . .

1) You can have your stock manifold modified to accept an external gate. For about half of what an external 02 housing runs. You'll be running the clammy 2g o2 housing and need to seal up the turbine housing some how. . . But that will safe a few bucks.

2)You could get an ebay tubular o2 housing and have someone modifiy it for the 38mm gate too. I've had GREAT success with that. Rock solid boost and I have a much better o2 housing than stock. Which makes a difference at this level.

3) extend the arm on the internal gate. Or run a better actuator. . . There's been some stuff done with the holset actuator you would have on your very own holset by Jusmx141. Contact him if you want some more details. . .


Guys it's not hard to get costs WAY, WAY down for ANY setup. It just takes some thinking time.
 
I just moved to a 20G from E3 16G. I just started trying to tune it so I am no guru yet.

My first impressions, the 20g actually starts spooling quicker than the e3, but reaches full boost a couple hundred rpm later. The 16g is known for hitting boost and power band all at once. The 20g starts pulling at lower RPM and just keeps pulling! This makes it much more streetable than the e3 and gives more HP potential. Cost - look for a used one, there is guy on this board that rebuilds and sells 20G's for under $500.

is that on a td05 or tdo6 20g? Im looking into the 20g as well.
 
So quick to put down a good car! I thought I was on a DSM board!

My whole point was, the e316g has a lot to offer!

42lb/min

Displacement FTW!

sure the E16g can make power, but how many of them are really over 400AWHP?
i cant see that log, but im assuming by the title some one is claiming they are getting over 40 lb/min
how is that posible the turbo is rated for 38. i have seen people get 40-42 lb/min on a E16g, but their MAF was not calibrated correctly which WAY over inflated the numbers, once it was calibrated they were maybe liike 37 lb/min and they were not at 21 psi, they were 25-26psi with a 28psi spike

in the end, it comes down to how much you want to spend and how fast you want to go

my 16g was fun for like 1st and 2ng gear, but once i hit 3rd i was like oh this sucks(even at 25psi)

the HX35 spools so smoothly with a .55ar hotside 2nd gear hits so hard and keeps that feeling threw ALL the gears

IMO from having both turbos, spend the money and do the HX35 much better turbo(power wise)
 
Well it's time to rebuild my hx40-7blade, But have some extra thinking about going with something newer and better or just do a rebuild. Well my 40 has been fun and kept me happy but im willing to try something new if better. I want to produce faster spool time better efficiency and more HP than the 40. :hmm:I've been looking at the BW S362 & S366 ext tip. t3/.55 a/r or the pte6262bb:hmm:. :nono:PLEASE DON'T SUGGEST A GARRETT GT35R I DON'T LIKE THEM:nono: I'll leave my mods so you can suggest a good match up to my set-up. thanks

2.4 set-up
magnus smim
shearer t3 tubular exh manifold w 48mm turbosmarts progate
sbr stage 5 ported head with 272's
1000cc
3in dp
aem fuel rail
water to air cooler
dsmlink
walbro 255
(meth inj kit coming soon)
 
Well, ApexVII, the evo3 16g (16g6 compressor) has a 42lb/min compressor map based on common ambient conditions. The older big 16g flows about 40lb/min and the small 16g flows about 38lb/min, both based on the same common ambient conditions (20*C and just over sea level elevation).

Based on his log, the maf is not calibrated though. BoostEst is 23.7 psi and his actual boost is 21psi at 5K. The airflow numbers a little inflated. And he is showing 42lb/min with his 2.4 motor. That's why I asked for a 70-90mph time. . . A 0-60 would be good if he doesn't have wheel spin in the middle of second.

I've had both turbos and like the hx35 much more too. Best street turbo out of the 14b, small 16g, evo3 16g (for about a week), td05h 18g, t31 bolton 60-1.

Best bang for your buck is just a $150 used 14b with a $50 used 7cm^2 turbine housing. Easy 300whp turbo for nothing with mhi reliability.
 
If you want better spool, about the only thing you can do is get a smaller turbo.

Not entirely true. the B&Ws are about as proven as it comes. The Holsets are still having issues here and there. Back in the day they were known for thier awesome bang for the buck value back when BEP offered them but even BEP has moved on to the B&W extended tips. Similar pricing, with proven performance and supposed better response. Although not confirmed the slight price difference for a proven product is well worth it, especially when the difference is so small.

If I were the OP I wouldn't hesitate moving to a B&W counterpart and even a slightly bigger one. You'll be able to retain a similar spool to your HX all the while increasing your top end.:hellyeah:
 
I don't think you'll find any other turbos that will top the HX40 in more efficient spool time and produce more hp except the only thing that you didn't want mentioned, the FP HTA GT3586R might be as efficient or more and the flow rate is 6 lb/min more.
 
well my car hasn't been to the dyno yet. i was going to do it this coming up week but the turbo is goin out, so I'd figured that I wait until i solve this issue befor i go2 the dyno. The car was just completed 6weeks ago. it's just broke in. Anyway I've driven the car at 23psi and its a monster but just a rough tune to be on the safe side, being that it hasn't had any tune time. The car is rich to stay safe at this point. like i said im happy with the 40 but to spend 400 to rebuild Id rather replace with something new and better if so. just getting ideas from others on the stroker set-up.
 
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