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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
I've saw and will be daily driving the ACT Clutch w/ the 2900 pressure plate. My brother went 10.6 on the track several times witch is the set up I bought. So, like maverick was suggesting works to. :)
 
Basically choosing between exedy and act, but not sure which to get.

Car is basically going to be DD with some track time here and there. I would prefer something thats a little more comfortable, but I would not like to give up reliability under any circumstances.

Also, will need a flywheel...Im assuming any lightweight aluminum flywheel will do the trick - prob a fidenza?


Thanks guys!
 
For a DD I wouldn't get an aluminum flywheel, I would get a chromoly like an ACT. or just stick with an oem or lightened oem. Really light flywheels like the fidanza make some cars stall when your slowing down and you push in the clutch. There are also a lot of little bolts and pieces to a fidanza so there's more that can go wrong than with a 1 piece flywheel.
 
I would keep the stock flywheel, get it resurfaced to a 0.612" step height and do a South Bend Clutch SS-Series pressure plate with TZ/B Kevlar/Ceramic dual friction full face, sprung hub clutch disk with a new OEM TOB, clutch fork, pivot ball, pressure plate bolts and proper length flywheel bolts.

Unless you have control of your idle speed controller you will have deceleration throttle and idle stability issues with a lightweight flywheel that will make it annoying to drive. The stock flywheel is also considerably more reliable than the Fidanza.

It will drive like a stock clutch with soft pedal feel, extremely smooth engagement for street driving with excellent modulation as well as handling abuse while having better longevity than an ACT2100 Street disk kit.

There is absolutely no reason for a Quarter Master gear drive twin disk for this application. If you were over 600tq, then we can talk about a twin for the application.

This clutch will be a better fit for you and will be super easy to drive while handling your torque capacity requirements.
 
^ +1 for South Bend and stock flywheel. I ran the SS/TZ combo with a stock flywheel on my HX40 setup and loved it. Good street manners with the ability to hold some serious torque.
 
Ok, the key thing with the TZ-disk is that you have your flywheel perfectly machined flat to 0.612" step height as well as you media blast your flywheel with an aluminum oxide 80/120 grit blast media to increase the surface porosity of the friction surface which will help in breaking in the clutch disk as well as reduce the likelihood of slipping, glazing and premature failure.

Hence why I recommended the TZ/B disk as it does not require the flywheel side to be media blasted. Any surface that has the Kevlar side against it I recommend media blasting and making sure you have a perfectly flat surface. The pressure plate side of the clutch kit is media blasted for any of my kits using the Kevlar full face or dual friction Kevlar disk options for any of my pressure plate options.
 
Hey thanks for viewing I need help picking a clutch I got a 1990 eclipse gst fwd turbo n my clutch went out n im not sure what kind of clutch to get.

Should I get a OEM clutch? Or something stronger like a XTD stage 4?

Don't really have much mods , just boost controler I got it up at 10 psi , upgraded pipeping , afpr. N I got it tuned I don't have nun crazy. I daily drive mostly n do couple runs some times in boost

What clutch should I go with I am on a budget under $150
Let me know what u guys think suggest me brands n what you guys have tried n think would best fit me

Thank you! I appreciate it
 
I'd stick with a stock clutch. If you go with an ACT, I personally prefer their unsprung clutches due to being afraid of the springs coming loose, however many haven't had them break free.

Do you have any plans for it?
 
If you're not upgrading any further, OEM should suit your needs. An ACT is a pretty good next step, hold power and has a normal lifetime with minimal upgrades. A stage 4 sounds alittle excessive for your needs.
 
I guess I'll ask a question in here. I'm about to go shopping for a clutch kit, my Awd spyder is almost finished and its one of the last things I need. I'm going to be using an Oem flywheel thats been resurfaced. My turbo setup will be an Evo3 16g with all bolt ons. What clutch and pressure plate should I use? I'm going to keep the 16g at 20psi for a nice fun weekend warrior.
 
i do not hear a lot on this forum about clutchnet. my 14b build is fidanza flywheel, clutchnet street disk, and OEM pressure plate on a 95 7-bolt. (trying to keep holding power up but clamping load down)

honestly i do not like ACT clutches, i have had nothing but crap luck with them, and time and time again people pop a spring, complain that it is not covered under warranty,a nd then buy another ACT set.

i would take Exedy over ACT all day long if those are your only choices. myself i will stick with clutchnet or maybe SPEC, SPEC is more spendy for same quality though. southbend was one of the others i like. basically any name brand other then ACT.
 
Interesting I'll have to take a look at those. I've always heard bad things about Exedy but it's always like everything else in the market where some people have horrible luck with something and others never have an issue.
 
They are compatible but I recommend against running the Kevlar surface disks (TZ-Series disk) with them in abusive applications. If it is simply a daily driver and not getting launched regularly then it should be fine. The problem is the different thermal expansion rates of the aluminum flywheel vs. the carbon steel insert friction surface causes problems with the surface warping and resulting in uneven wear on the disk, clutch disengagement issues, and reduced torque capacity from the decreased surface engagement area in contact with the disk.

I have ran the Fidanza with the Kevlar material in the past without problems in a DD, but had to replace the friction surfaces regularly when it saw abuse and track time.

I recommend the Competition Clutch 4140 heat treated chromoly flywheel or the ACT Streetlite flywheel; both choices I keep in stock for all DSM 6/7-bolt AWD and FWD applications. The 1-piece flywheel design with a uniform material is more consistent for thermal expansion and the likelyhood of warping one of these is pretty low. I also prefer to have a 12# flywheel in the car vs. a Fidanza 8# unit which a lot of people without standalone ECU's have decel throttle, neutral stalling and idle stability issues with since they cannot control the idle speed controller stepper motor or they are set up for MAF instead of speed density.

I also offer media blasting of the flywheel friction surface if it is being used with a Kevlar friction material to promote material bedding and reduced break in time. Recovery time to bed the friction material is quicker and reduced surface glazing potential are benefits to this surface treatment.
 
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