1G Axle issues

[Bigmike4g63t]

I need to disconnect my axles to pull the engine/transmission from my car. I have searched on here but still not sure the best way to go about this. I believe I have everything else disconnected except 2 motor mounts

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I have a cheater pipe I can put over the 1/2" drive breaker bar. Will try this weekend. Went back to work today after being out nearly 2 weeks sick and I am wiped out.

The front of the car is on jack stands with wheels off. I put wheels back on, wedged a concrete block under them and that stopped them from moving. I stood on the breaker bar and bounced. Still no luck. I weigh 192.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes, I had to loosen the nut with the wheel bolted on and car on the ground (and wheel chocked) to keep the wheel from turning while jumping up/down (literally standing) on the 3' pipe over my 2' breaker bar. It needed all this with the weight of the car on it to keep from turning and I weigh 220. If this doesn't work try heating the nut up and spray with PB Blaster and let sit overnight till trying again.

 

[pauleyman]

I have a cheater pipe I can put over the 1/2" drive breaker bar. Will try this weekend. Went back to work today after being out nearly 2 weeks sick and I am wiped out.

The front of the car is on jack stands with wheels off. I put wheels back on, wedged a concrete block under them and that stopped them from moving. I stood on the breaker bar and bounced. Still no luck. I weigh 192.

don't bother removing axles from hub. You can do as marty has suggested or if you want a little more room I remove the bolts holding the control arm to the subframe. Hang the assembly from the springs with a coat hanger. You can move the hub all over the place and swing the axles out of the way from the trans side and just leave them dangling. Removed many a trans and motor this way. With this method you don't have have to push it and don't have to undo tie rods etc. Just the sway bar links. Easy.

 

[luv2rallye]

^ Yes Pauleyman has the best answer. Only remove the axles from the hubs if there is no other choice.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Honestly if the nut is rusted that bad onto the axle, the axle itself is gonna be damn near welded in the hub. Juice isn't worth the squeeze.

 

[danl]

It is worthwhile to try to loosen up the axles in the hub and grease them so that they can be removed some day when the need arises. I understand tabling this job to later though.

It is helpful to hit the nuts with an impact with some serious power. This helps break down the rust and grinds it into powder. Go forwards and backwards to achieve this. Ingersol Rand makes a weighted impact socket which works well, but it is expensive and may not be available in this size. My breaker bar setup is 1/2” sockets and a 5 foot lever arm.

Once the nut is removed, spray it with pb blaster every day and drive the car. The pb and losening/tightening the nut helps break the bond on the axle splines in the hub.

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[Bigmike4g63t]

I'm having issues. Anyone want to let me call them?

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I got the driver side to slide out. Passenger side is kinda out. I removed the control arm from the subframe as recommended. I am wondering with it within a half inch or so of coming out if it will just slide out when pulling the engine out?

 

[97egl]

I got the driver side to slide out. Passenger side is kinda out. I removed the control arm from the subframe as recommended. I am wondering with it within a half inch or so of coming out if it will just slide out when pulling the engine out?

Probably will come out when you pull the engine but it'll be a nightmare to get back in. If you haven't removed the tie rod from the spindle yet that should allow you to clear that last half inch

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I have not removed the tie rod end. That would probably do the trick. Is it as easy as removing the cotter pin and taking it loose?

 

[pauleyman]

I got the driver side to slide out. Passenger side is kinda out. I removed the control arm from the subframe as recommended. I am wondering with it within a half inch or so of coming out if it will just slide out when pulling the engine out?

Turn the steering wheel to the right. No reason to undo tie rod if you have control arm undone. Even without that it should come out.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I turned it all the way to right, left and all inbetween. Could not get passenger side out all the way.

 

[pauleyman]

Is it still in the trans. Take it loose from hub first. Then pop trans side.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

Well the hub is what I was having issues breaking free.

 

[97egl]

I have not removed the tie rod end. That would probably do the trick. Is it as easy as removing the cotter pin and taking it loose?

Almost. The rod with the nut & cotter pin is a tapered fit and has to be forced out.

Here's a video of how to do it without messing up the boot on the tie rod.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Take the cotter pin out and the nut off. Put the castle nut back on UPSIDEDOWN with the castle part down and run it down until the nut is just flush with the tie rod end stud. Grab a deadblow hammer and SMACK the upsidedown nut DOWN and the tie rod will pop right out of the knuckle. If you want to be even safer but just as quick, put a 2x4 on top before you smack it. It will pop out and the nut will be the only thing holding it in the hub. Unscrew the nut, remove the tie rod from the hub and put the nut and cotter pin back on the tie rod for safe keeping.
It's just how I separate a tie rod. Quick and easy and no damage.

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

It is now out. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I will have more questions soon.....

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