Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[CrackedDSM]

I don’t hate anyone, I’ll just reiterate that it’s more confusion. I’m here to follow advice I’m given. If I don’t immediately follow it I usually have a good reason. It’s not intentional or stubbornness or lack of trust. If anything it’s a lack of trust in myself or the build or other factors.


I stand by what I said. It’s happened more than a few times where I follow advice given, then get asked “why did you do this?”

I also expound a little and explain that who I am as a person wants people to be happy. If I constantly hear that I annoy you, if I bother you, if I never follow your advice, whatever the issue is, I legitimately would rather you just move on and live your life in happiness. It doesn’t make sense to stick where you aren’t happy.

So yeah. I’m not losing sleep over anything. Not triggered or angry, just not really here to hear about how much I bother you. It’s the same thing as if I’m driving. If you’re riding my ass I’d legitimately rather you just pass me and we can both be happy that way. Don’t just sit behind me refusing to get past me as it does nothing for either of us.


I’m honestly not here for drama and I’m not gonna partake in it. No bad blood from me. My post was me metaphorically moving out of the lane and telling you to just pass me.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I see you are above 100 in your VE table, and the VE peak is not at all where I would expect to find it. It looks like you need more global fuel?

View attachment 764834

Another thing I noticed is your IAT temps are fixed at 88deg? That's awfully consistent for a 3rd gear pull. I was expecting it to move a little.

Back on topic: I always just assumed my intercooler was just really good. Is there a way to test my IAT sensor? Like back in the restaurant days if you wanted to test a thermometer you’d dip it in ice water to see if it said 32* and put it in boiling water to see if it read 212*.

Unplug it and see or is there some kind of better process?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Back on topic: I always just assumed my intercooler was just really good. Is there a way to test my IAT sensor? Like back in the restaurant days if you wanted to test a thermometer you’d dip it in ice water to see if it said 32* and put it in boiling water to see if it read 212*.

Unplug it and see or is there some kind of better process?

hairdryer

 

[Stapl3]

I also can't say I've EVER heard of someone tuning fuel by adjusting the fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure somewhere, somehow it's a legit tuning strategy but as far as I've ever heard, read, done- fuel pressure should be the ONE CONSTANT that shouldn't ever change unless needed.

Base fuel pressure and global % in 'link are dance partners. They are the same thing. One has adjustability down to the tenth of a percent, the other feels infinite. So long as you don't end up in the weeds -- like base fuel pressure 25psi, you're better off with the 'unheard of' tool. :]

I dont have a problem with Cracked, I like Cracked. If I didn't like him I wouldn't be posting here. He's asking for help -but- then picking and choosing the help after a fat push to the right direction only to ignore it "to approach things with a safe hand". Like now there's knowledge of a safe hand? What? Is a perfectly calibrated DSM that is fast as f*** wanted or not? Is this a diary or a desire for a perfectly calibrated and behaving fast car?

 

[Stapl3]

I think I'm running only 17° up top, but I'm also running 45+ psi so obviously there's a trade off there. Can't have cake and eat it too type of situations

There's no trade off with boost pressure, the spark event happens at the optimal time or not.

 

[Anfurnyy]

There's no trade off with boost pressure, the spark event happens at the optimal time or not.

I mean, there is.
You *probably* can't run the same 25° on a car making 20 psi, as car making 50 psi. You're already stuffing over twice the pressure from the turbo and a bunch of ignition timing on top of that just creates a ton of cylinder pressure.

While you're not wrong, "Optimal" is subjective and not every or setup runs the same.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, I’ve decided I’m gonna commit to installing the A/C probably this weekend. I find myself not wanting to drive the car in anything above 80’s temps outside which means like, I’m never gonna drive the car this entire summer. So, time to stop pussyfooting around and just install my A/C parts.

It’s the last step really to completion. There will be no more giant or large objectives on this car after I get the A/C working. Crazy.

I’ll let y’all know how it goes. I think I’m just gonna stick with the R134 conversion.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Alright, I’ve decided I’m gonna commit to installing the A/C probably this weekend. I find myself not wanting to drive the car in anything above 80’s temps outside which means like, I’m never gonna drive the car this entire summer. So, time to stop pussyfooting around and just install my A/C parts.

It’s the last step really to completion. There will be no more giant or large objectives on this car after I get the A/C working. Crazy.

I’ll let y’all know how it goes. I think I’m just gonna stick with the R134 conversion.

Your stock fittings off the condenser going to work? I really wanna install mine but I'd need a custom "peanut" fitting to 90° off the driver side and run up to the line up there since the intercooler is there.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Your stock fittings off the condenser going to work? I really wanna install mine but I'd need a custom "peanut" fitting to 90° off the driver side and run up to the line up there since the intercooler is there.

Yeah, the dryer and 45* fitting juuuust gently touches the intercooler. I’ll put a couple washers under the mounting tabs on the Intercooler to give it a few more MMs of clearance. I’ve had the condenser, lines, A/C bracket, and lines installed on the car for awhile now. I only need to install the compressor, and compressor to firewall line. And the dreaded a/c belt tensioner. Lol.

Oh and swap on my new dryer once I’ve sealed and vacuum tested the system. Don’t wanna put it on or rip the seal off until it’s ready to put on as there is an ass ton of moisture in the air now.

But I can take pictures if need be. I was very pleased it all fit.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Did some more tweaking of the fuel maps tonight. This thing freakin' riiiiiips on the new aggressive timing maps. It's still a little rich past 7500, but honestly I'm rarely if ever gonna go past 7500. It is faster in its current form than it was on 24+lbs. And its on 16lbs creeping slowly to 20 at redline. I can't wait to turn it up to 24 or 30lbs, or as close as it'll get. I'm a big chicken though, I'll be real. I'm gonna keep it at its current boost and see how fast I can go on Dragy. Eventually.

Here's the log. It's a short 2nd and 3rd gear pull to check AFRs in both gears. God I love this new/proper tune.

Also! To @Justin DuBois , I tested my IAT sensor with a hairdryer...this ETS intercooler just really is that good at cooling! It got right up and responded no sweat to the heat from the hairdryer. Maybe it's a combo of my OCD for heatshielding, and a bad-ass ETS intercooler. IDK. I'm sure this FP Green compressor wheel is super efficient too. I bet on a 16G above 20lbs it would be way more of a struggle/way hotter. But this Green is on 16-20lbs. Barely working.

Log below.


One question though...is it normal to have to take so much fuel out up top? Like past 7000-7500RPMs? Is it my turbo running out of steam or is there are a larger problem? It's a stock turbo throttle body, stock IM, 2G unported exhaust manifold and o2 housing, BC 272 cams. Normal or should I have more oomph up there? Lemme know what you guys think.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Your SD profile is interesting. You need more global fuel, and your VE peak is close to 4000rpm.

I recommend -31 as a new global fuel, and start lowering the SD fields that are above 100.

 

[Justin DuBois]

You can use the scaling feature to re-index the entire table. If you multiply every cell by 0.93, it will lower your VE peak to 100, and maintain the relative relationship of all the cell values.

 

[MindBlowin03]

Perfectly normal for you VE to drop after your peak, especially with a stock intake manifold.

Big cams, turbo and intake manifold would get your peak VE into the upper areas.

 

[CrackedDSM]

You can use the scaling feature to re-index the entire table. If you multiply every cell by 0.93, it will lower your VE peak to 100, and maintain the relative relationship of all the cell values.
View attachment 765109
View attachment 765108
View attachment 765107

Good stuff, I didn’t know that was a thing.

But, can you clarify why you’d like to see me change the VE around? Not challenging you, just strictly for knowledge sake.

Perfectly normal for you VE to drop last your peak, especially with a stock intake manifold.

Big cams, turbo and intake manifold would get your peak VE into the upper areas.

Awesome. Good to know! Thanks broski.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Good stuff, I didn’t know that was a thing.

But, can you clarify why you’d like to see me change the VE around? Not challenging you, just strictly for knowledge sake.

If you decide to do this don't forget you'll need to adjust your global fuel to offset the lowering of the VE table like @Justin DuBois mentioned here:

Your SD profile is interesting. You need more global fuel, and your VE peak is close to 4000rpm.

I recommend -31 as a new global fuel, and start lowering the SD fields that are above 100.
View attachment 765106

It's really just to get your max VE value fuel set to 100 so they aren't inflated.. There might be other reasons behind it as well but I'm not sure what those are

 

[Justin DuBois]

If you decide to do this don't forget you'll need to adjust your global fuel to offset the lowering of the VE table like @Justin DuBois mentioned here:

It's really just to get your max VE value fuel set to 100 so they aren't inflated.. There might be other reasons behind it as well but I'm not sure what those are

Yes. It's similar to adjusting global fuel so that your MAF Comp sliders return to center around 0.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Yes. It's similar to adjusting global fuel so that your MAF Comp sliders return to center around 0.

Is it all based around simulating your MAF slider to 0?

 

[CrackedDSM]

In an attempt to get the oil spraying out of my BOV when letting off under control, I'm gonna make the lines coming from the VC bigger. Right now I'm using both the stock PCV valve and stock breather port running to my catch can, and I just don't think it's enough. Especially how tiny the PCV valve fitting is/how small it necks down to.

Temporary solution before going full retard: Ordered two 1/4 NPT to 1/2" Barb fittings and a 1/4 NPT tap/drill bit combo. I'm gonna drill and tap the holes for the PCV and the breather ports, and use these fittings. Also gonna get some 1/2" line, and thankfully my catch-can already came with 1/2 barb fittings as a spare. If that doesn't help, I'm gonna just bite the bullet and dish out the money to have some -10AN fittings welded onto my VC and probably get it powdercoated at the same time. Same color it is now. Really want to get this excessive crank case pressure under control, as I'm terrified it's going to cost me a turbo or something.

I am already starting to consume oil, and that disturbs me. It's only like 1/4 quart so far but still...I don't like that. Hopefully getting those crankcase gases evacuated will help.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Have you got any pictures of how much oil coming is out of the BOV?

 

[jesse12345]

Who built your engine? I was in my early 20s when I built mine and it was with little care. I don't think I remember gapping the rings and one cylinder had a nasty scratch from me being careless putting the pistons in. Those were the days of me just being in a hurry and careless to say the least. The scratch was bad enough to catch my finger easily. I don't think I've ever told anyone this story just because it's embarrassing and I've made so many mistakes it's hard to swallow some of them down.

Anyways Even with those issues I don't have oil spraying from anywhere and zero dipstick popping out, so either I got stupid lucky slapping the b together or my time is coming. Obviously now if I built an engine it would be with the most kind of care. The older I get the wiser one becomes.

 

[Anfurnyy]

if you're engine bay is still the same as this:

View attachment 755186

Your catch can is vent to atmosphere and unless you've got some CRAZY blowby from the rings, id wager it's probably just residual oil from your intake pipes / intercooler from before you switched your catch can setup.
I'd bet it's really just from the oil stuck to the inside of the piping getting warm enough to be able to move around due to boost, and getting pushed into your BOV flange and getting stuck, only to be released when the BOV opens under pressure.

Personally you probably have nothing to worry about but it might be worth taking the piping off and cleaning it out, and if you're feeling froggy maybe the throttle body and intake manifold and cleaning those out too. I'd bet they're caked with sticky oil

 

[CrackedDSM]

Have you got any pictures of how much oil coming is out of the BOV?

if you're engine bay is still the same as this:

Your catch can is vent to atmosphere and unless you've got some CRAZY blowby from the rings, id wager it's probably just residual oil from your intake pipes / intercooler from before you switched your catch can setup.
I'd bet it's really just from the oil stuck to the inside of the piping getting warm enough to be able to move around due to boost, and getting pushed into your BOV flange and getting stuck, only to be released when the BOV opens under pressure.

Personally you probably have nothing to worry about but it might be worth taking the piping off and cleaning it out, and if you're feeling froggy maybe the throttle body and intake manifold and cleaning those out too. I'd bet they're caked with sticky oil

Hmmm. What's weird is this was never an issue before I fixed the dipstick blowing out under boost with a new dipstick tube w/ a spring. Either it's been happening the entire time and I only just now noticed it(possible) or it's because I have some crazy blowby. I need to compression test the engine again, but honestly I don't have super high hopes for this engine. It sat non-running for almost a decade in brand new/freshly rebuilt condition, and I screwed it hard by starting/stopping and letting it idle for extended periods before it ever saw any attempt to break in the rings.

But to answer your question yeah, engine bay is still the same/can is VTA. I don't have a picture of the amount of oil, but it's not enough to be visible on the intake tube(BOV is pointed right at the intake tube) but I can feel it. If I stick my finger in the BOV hole, a tiny bit will be visible on my finger. I can also smell it after a hard pull. Oil burning smell. Similar to when the dipstick would pop out and spray a bit on the heatshield.

I'll probably end up paying a local shop I trust to do a leakdown test since I don't have an air compressor and the necessary stuff. It's had enough miles put on the engine compression should be good. Curious what the leakdown finds.

Who built your engine? I was in my early 20s when I built mine and it was with little care. I don't think I remember gapping the rings and one cylinder had a nasty scratch from me being careless putting the pistons in. Those were the days of me just being in a hurry and careless to say the least. The scratch was bad enough to catch my finger easily. I don't think I've ever told anyone this story just because it's embarrassing and I've made so many mistakes it's hard to swallow some of them down.

Anyways Even with those issues I don't have oil spraying from anywhere and zero dipstick popping out, so either I got stupid lucky slapping the b together or my time is coming. Obviously now if I built an engine it would be with the most kind of care. The older I get the wiser one becomes.

A crackhead built my engine, sadly. He's part of these forums and used to be the go-to guy, but years of Meth abuse has robbed him of his skill, or at least his ability to take his time and do things correctly. Half of the cam cap bolts were finger loose, and a bunch of other things wrong. So legitimately, I wouldn't be surprised if it's 150% some crazy amount of blow-by from terrible over gapped/incorrect sized rings/engine builder error.

 

[jesse12345]

Oh dang well that's unfortunate to say the least. I do feel blessed to have gotten lucky on mine but I do still kick myself for everything I continue to get wrong. That's why I try not to get upset or complain because I know everything that I do can be avoidable. Sorry for the rant about myself. Maybe one day I can get something 100 percent without mistakes instead of pretending to be Stevie wonder everytime I work on something.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Turned the boost up to 24lbs, and holy crap does it rip man. I drove the car for like 20 mins and decided to try an AWD launch. That was a mistake. It slipped the clutch in 1st gear. What’s weird is it just grabs for days in 2nd and 3rd though. I don’t hear the wheels spinning so I’m assuming it’s clutch slip.


I’m gonna let it cool way down and try again in a few hours. It’s a full face ceramic clutch so it shouldn’t glaze or whatever. Curious to hear y’all’s thoughts. Is 1st gear in 1G DSMs just that quick that it feels like it’s slipping?


Either way, God this car is magic at 24lbs. Gonna get a log later and see how close my injectors will let me get to 30lbs.

 

[CrackedDSM]

This thing rips so hard, man. I went out and checked the 1st gear holding capacity and it seems fine. This time I actually heard the wheels spin but it boogied out of the hole.

I’m so stoked with this. Again, it’s not world beating but it’s a huge improvement over what it was at the same exact level boost wise a few months back. Also, I was 150% shifting like a grandma. I'm attaching the log from this run for your enjoyment/critiquing/whatever. With these Dragy numbers I've officially hit a goal of mine, and that's to make this thing faster than the Edge is on full kill. 2nd and 3rd gear are just freakin' magical. I'm only at 70% IDCs, so 30lbs is coming soon as I get the crankcase pressure under control.

I'll spoil the log a little though and say, from 1-2 and 2-3 both took .51 seconds each. Granny shifting to the max. But yeah, 21lbs creeping to 24. Love it. I wanted to hit that magic 400hp number but eh, IDC. I really feel like this car is in the easy 7's if I could just break out of the "Grandma driving to church on sunday" shift pattern I have right now. It's a mental block because I don't want to rape this car into gear and it hurt the transmission...IDK. Either way, stoked. Guess the clutch holds fine.