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Talon and Vette 10_03_24.jpg

Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

Old street racing legend reborn

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Is it a ring gap that causes that? I'm still on stock pcv stuff and I have none of those problems. I was thinking of adding a catch can just to be safe when I crank up the boost. I was running my 16g at 20 psi. I am just trying to play it safe.
IMO a catch can is never a bad idea on a performance engine. The last thing you want is nasty, hard to ignite oil vapors ending up in your intake tract and inside the cylinder walls.

I, personally am against recirculating catch cans for that reason. I'd rather vent all that junk to atmosphere instead of reintroduce it into the engine.
 
So since I'm running a maf I need it to be sealed right?
Yes. I have a very simple setup. The PCV to intake is capped off (to prevent boost leaks and vacuuming oil vapor into the IM), and inline on the hose that goes between the VC and the intake snorkel has a sealed catch can with a manual valve at the bottom for draining it. Inside the sealed catch can I use brass wool to help condense vapor into liquid.

I'm not attempting to create a vacuum in the crank case - and passive pressure in the VC is pushed through the catch can.

I have a old motor with a old dip stick - and it does not blow out the dip stick.
 
Okay so if I'm understanding you correctly your using the suction of the turbo to essentially suck whatever vapors into the catch can from the valve cover? Also capping off the pcv side of it all right? If thats right I'd so much rather do that then to run it from the intake manifold. I'm still very much new to the catch can setups.
 
Okay so if I'm understanding you correctly your using the suction of the turbo to essentially suck whatever vapors into the catch can from the valve cover? Also capping off the pcv side of it all right? If thats right I'd so much rather do that then to run it from the intake manifold. I'm still very much new to the catch can setups.
The Turbo does "suck" air in, but my guess is the pressure in the crank case is doing the work of moving air out of the VC and into the intake.

Everyone has their opinion on what "should" be done - I'm saying what works for me.
 
If it works for you, I'll give it a shot. I shouldn't need any check valve or anything using that side I'm guessing? Thanks a ton for all the information, and apologies for sort of scumming up the build thread. I see alot of good stuff and I just have to ask questions.
 
Give this a read.

 
So what exactly are you mad about? People spending money on their cars so they Look better?

Personally I'm one of the "idiots" you're referencing. I'd wager I'm well over $600+ in fittings and line alone for the whole car, not including the -12orb fittings and -12an push lock I bought specifically for my catch can setup. I blew my new dipstick out with -10 fittings vented to atmosphere at 35psi with .027" ring gaps.

There's people that want to to the bare minimum and there's people that over build.

Now what IS ricey is braided stainless that goes over rubber line that makes it LOOK like braided line.
I'm not mad nor did I use the word "idiots".
 
If it works for you, I'll give it a shot. I shouldn't need any check valve or anything using that side I'm guessing? Thanks a ton for all the information, and apologies for sort of scumming up the build thread. I see alot of good stuff and I just have to ask questions.
Cory doesn’t mind, he loves the proper info getting out there, as do I. I can speak for you right bro? 😎
Speaking of nice parts I’m looking at this for mine.
 
I called myself an idiot I wasn't quoting you.

DSM guys get this stigma that we're all cheap and own trashy cars. There's nothing wrong with over building and adding ACTUAL nice parts to cars if money allows.
Spend your money on whatever you want for your car. Cracked said he was doing research on it and was going to use flared fittings and I pointed out just because that's the norm in the community doesn't mean it's the route to go. People try to validate it, but right next to this elaborate PCV system you'll see a bov, wastegate, and fpr using rubber vacuum hose. To me it's like buying 400 dollar lug nuts for your oem powdercoated rims while using rubber brake lines and 7 dollar brake pads off rockauto.
 
I called myself an idiot I wasn't quoting you.

DSM guys get this stigma that we're all cheap and own trashy cars. There's nothing wrong with over building and adding ACTUAL nice parts to cars if money allows.
I mean, you did use quotation marks. :p
 
Chris might need a separate server for your build thread soon. :sneaky:

I do genuinely feel bad about how big this damn debacle boondoggle build thread is but yeah. I have a lot to say I can’t help it. :p
 
Sorry maybe off topic, but I try to share a different thing but still related to the crankcase pressure and blow-by gas.
If focusing only to the crankcase pressure, for most of DSMers, two 10AN open ports on valve cover is usually enough. But not enough to purge/collect blow-by gas.
If someone wants to try something different, should try a secondary air injection pump if you have a chance. Maybe you would like it.
If you google it, you would find that some people use this pump to build vacuum in crankcase as a cheaper method. From my experience, one pump is not enough to build vacuum in crankcase (at least you would need two pumps connceted in series) but it sucks up and flows good amount of air from the crankcase since it usually comes 3/4" port which is 12AN equivalent. Maybe someone would mention about a brake booster vacuum pump, but it won't flow enough air since usually utilizes a tiny port, it's not enough for an engine.
You install it after a sealed catch can since this pump is usually not oil/fuel resistant, and return to the intake pipe or leave it open with a filter. And activate it through a boost switch, throttle position switch or ECU through a relay. You can't hope to have vacuum in crankcase but at least you can probably lower the crankcase pressure a bit and can keep the oil cleaner for longer lifespan, especially if you are the one who sees a lot of fuel in oil each time when you change oil.
 
Sorry maybe off topic, but I try to share a different thing but still related to the crankcase pressure and blow-by gas.
If focusing only to the crankcase pressure, for most of DSMers, two 10AN open ports on valve cover is usually enough. But not enough to purge/collect blow-by gas.
If someone wants to try something different, should try a secondary air injection pump if you have a chance. Maybe you would like it.
If you google it, you would find that some people use this pump to build vacuum in crankcase as a cheaper method. From my experience, one pump is not enough to build vacuum in crankcase (at least you would need two pumps connceted in series) but it sucks up and flows good amount of air from the crankcase since it usually comes 3/4" port which is 12AN equivalent. Maybe someone would mention about a brake booster vacuum pump, but it won't flow enough air since usually utilizes a tiny port, it's not enough for an engine.
You install it after a sealed catch can since this pump is usually not oil/fuel resistant, and return to the intake pipe or leave it open with a filter. And activate it through a boost switch, throttle position switch or ECU through a relay. You can't hope to have vacuum in crankcase but at least you can probably lower the crankcase pressure a bit and can keep the oil cleaner for longer lifespan, especially if you are the one who sees a lot of fuel in oil each time when you change oil.

I have wondered for years now about retrofitting a modern vacuum pump onto a 4G63 and run it off of the exhaust cam. There’s a whole plug there ready on the back of the head next to the CAS that is ready to be popped off and sealed around one. And you could easily notch the back of the cam to fit it.

Idk. Would be cool though.
 
I have wondered for years now about retrofitting a modern vacuum pump onto a 4G63 and run it off of the exhaust cam. There’s a whole plug there ready on the back of the head next to the CAS that is ready to be popped off and sealed around one. And you could easily notch the back of the cam to fit it.

Idk. Would be cool though.
I know what you mean, I think that would be possible if you can attach the pump without disturbing the hood closing and if you can find a pump that can work efficiently with half a engine speed. But my guess is it would be a bit complicated. It's probably more realistic if you put it in the belt side to adjust the speed by changing the pulley ratio, or a high volume electric vacuum pump with a controller.
 
Story please


Unbolted the axle, unbolted the caliper and rotor and everything. Impacted the nut off and it came off suspiciously easy. Like it wasn't even there. I tried to put the nut back on to hammer it out like seen on youtube, wouldn't go on. Got tired of struggling with it, and ended up just using a slide hammer on the lugs instead. When pulled out, found that. I have no idea how the nut was even on that shaft or what was holding it in.


This day has been a failure from beginning to end. Parts stores were all out of the ball joint press tool and bearing separators I needed to even do this job.


I'm getting so tired of going to fix things on this car and breaking shit or finding shit broken to the point where the car is down for weeks. I feel like less damage would've occurred had I just kept driving the car and whatever was making the noise would've fixed itself or grenaded.
 
Unbolted the axle, unbolted the caliper and rotor and everything. Impacted the nut off and it came off suspiciously easy. Like it wasn't even there. I tried to put the nut back on to hammer it out like seen on youtube, wouldn't go on. Got tired of struggling with it, and ended up just using a slide hammer on the lugs instead. When pulled out, found that. I have no idea how the nut was even on that shaft or what was holding it in.


This day has been a failure from beginning to end. Parts stores were all out of the ball joint press tool and bearing separators I needed to even do this job.


I'm getting so tired of going to fix things on this car and breaking shit or finding shit broken to the point where the car is down for weeks. I feel like less damage would've occurred had I just kept driving the car and whatever was making the noise would've fixed itself or grenaded.
When you have a goal you want to achieve, getting slowed down with a repair is frustrating. IMO - finding this in the garage is your best outcome. Add it to the list. What you don't want to do is stop looking. Don't put blinders on to avoid repair work.
 
When you have a goal you want to achieve, getting slowed down with a repair is frustrating. IMO - finding this in the garage is your best outcome. Add it to the list. What you don't want to do is stop looking. Don't put blinders on to avoid repair work.


That's true.


The silver lining to this cloud, is that when I did get it out...the bearing has all kinds of dirt contamination inside of it. It's gritty feeling and there's dirt in the grease that was put around it. The dust shield on the hub side is dented inwards, so it wasn't shielding anything. So I guess that's good news because it was either the problem, or was going to BE a problem.

I've bought a replacement hub shaft already. I have another one on the parts car too. We'll see how tomorrow turns out and what I do. I have a local friend who has the ball joint press kit I need, and I may rip off one of the parts cars hub shaft and get it done. I also might not, we'll see.
 
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