Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[CrackedDSM]

Did some tuning tweaks today. I got the fuel system calibrated like @Stapl3 told me to, and the AFR was much better as a result. Way closer to target. I also think I got the idle fixed. I reset the BISS completely, and adjusted it until ECMLink read in the 30-40 range, and now it's great. If I'm on the brakes and turn the wheel sometimes it'll try to die but honestly...way better than before.


The problem you guys will see, is how obscenely lean the idle is since I dialed in the fuel system. I had to add like 20% from 0-100hz on the MAF comp. Everywhere else though, the AFRs are perfect. But yeah, not sure how normal that is to have to add that much comp at idle but nowhere else. The deadtimes are dead on in the injbattadj tabs to what FIC said on the sheet for these injectors.

Also, I took a video this time of RPM vs Wideband gauge readings, so I finally have the wideband settings dialed in pretty perfect. So in this log do me a favor and right click AEM Wideband, click preferences, and update the settings to as follows:

Min Volts: 0.75
Min Lambda: 0.75
Max Volts: 2.40
Max Lambda: 1.00


But yeah, without further ado, I present the log. You can see about halfway through the first drive where I stopped for awhile. I updated the fuel system calibration, and it died due to leaning out. So after a short drive, I took a little more out of the global, and now its relatively perfect. There's a couple spots where it goes 10.8 instead of the 11.0 commanded, but overall...so much better than 9:1+ is was running before.

 

[Stapl3]

Try these mafcomp settings.

The longer you can do a WOT pull past 6000rpm, the more information there is to work with.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Try these mafcomp settings.

The longer you can do a WOT pull past 6000rpm, the more information there is to work with.

I keep chickening out, but now that fuel is much better...I think next time I'll do a pull to redline. Or close as I can without being a chicken at least.


Any idea why I have to add so much MAFComp to 0-100hz? If I zero that area out, it'll lean misfire and die at idle.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I keep chickening out, but now that fuel is much better...I think next time I'll do a pull to redline. Or close as I can without being a chicken at least.


Any idea why I have to add so much MAFComp to 0-100hz? If I zero that area out, it'll lean misfire and die at idle.

You can play with injector dead time to dial in the idle mix, and that should help in th 0-100hz realm.

Justin

 

[CrackedDSM]

You can play with injector dead time to dial in the idle mix, and that should help in the 0-100hz realm.

Justin

Oooh, appreciate it. I was worried that if I messed with deadtimes it would make everywhere on the map rich.


Also: I created and posted my first how-to article. It's about building/making your own 3" SD intake. It was made using a 1G, but the 2G is the same in principal. I'm proud of it.

I'm not converting to SD yet(I want to get this thing tuned cleanly on a MAF first), but I wanted to get that out of the way.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Oooh, appreciate it. I was worried that if I messed with deadtimes it would make everywhere on the map rich.


Also: I created and posted my first how-to article. It's about building/making your own 3" SD intake. It was made using a 1G, but the 2G is the same in principal. I'm proud of it.

I'm not converting to SD yet(I want to get this thing tuned cleanly on a MAF first), but I wanted to get that out of the way.

Yeah, deadtime is your idle friend, has no impact on WOT. Get your base fuel pressure dialed in, zero out the MAF comp, reset your fuel trims, and then start working on the idle mix with dead time. You should be able to get your combined FT to hover around 0% by adjusting global deadtime. Even if you have to make global fuel adjustments later working on WOT, you can touch up the dead times to fix the idle trims.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Did something I’ve been dreading for months now. I don’t know why but I just didn’t want to do it.

If you can’t tell I installed new hood pins. I tried to make them in somewhat of a pattern because I’m not removing the old ones. They’ll leave a giant hole for one thing.

And I cant use the old ones because the holes are directly over the radiator brackets. I’d have to get the studs welded on and meh. It’s just not worth it. So I left them on and added new ones. From a far glance or 5 feet they all look functional.

It looks okay, but more importantly it’ll stop the hood from kissing the roof violently at highway speeds. Win win in my book.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I see a lot of cars at the junkyard with the hood folded over. That seems to be the breaking point for many people - quite literally.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I see a lot of cars at the junkyard with the hood folded over. That seems to be the breaking point for many people - quite literally.

100% why I did this. The risk even at 10% is just too much. Now I know it’s secure.

 

[chrisman287]

Maybe you can remove the old pins and just put rubber plugs or caps of some sort. Would look better IMO

 

[Dericsh]

Thanks @CrackedDSM and @DreamChaser7 for keeping me grounded every time I get the “I need to move to Fl” bug.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Just came in with the dogs and saw this, . Swatting and cussing (out loud, the neighbors probably think I’m nuts), about 1000 gnats on us all at the same time, trying to get in the house without taking half of them with you is another challenge all together as the dogs drag ass not wanting to go inside.

 

[CrackedDSM]

No one needs to move or even visit Florida for the next decade or two. We’re so full here it’s not even funny.


Add on top the strangling oppressive heat and American Australia style bugs and wildlife…tell all your friends and family. Stay away from Florida. Lol.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Well, just to be brutally honest, I got a little overzealous with my new cutoff wheel when I was making room for the cold air intake and zipped juuuust into one of the popup motor plugs that it destroyed the pin and the plug. Thankfully the motor is fine. Lol. But yeah. What a dumb mistake, but hey. Stuff happens.

Good news is I have another plug to replace it on the way (it's the same plug as the ISC Motor, Injector Resistor Pack, and FPR/EGR solenoid pack plug on the firewall in case anyone is curious) and as a bonus he's sending me some good/new ECU plugs since mine all have the tabs snapped off of them by one of the P.O.'s. Gonna depin the plugs and replace them that way instead of soldering and cutting 65.9 billion wires at the ECU.

Stupid mistakes but at least I own up to them. Betas are the ones who act like they've never made a mistake.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

We've all made a mistake, hence why we're on this forum to begin with.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright fellas, I need your advice on boost control. It’s getting about time where I wanna plan for some way to run more than 12lbs of boost. Right now I’m kicking in my head two options.

Hallman in-cabin MBC
AEM TruBoost


My reasons behind these choices and not to use links built in boost control is simple. I want to be able to change boost on the fly and not need a laptop. I plan to run fairly low boost pretty often but it’d be nice if I felt the urge to just push a button or twist a knob in the comfort of the cabin and go.


But as always, I’m open for ideas and advice.

Hit me with it.

 

[Stapl3]

I want to be able to change boost on the fly and not need a laptop.

Why? Why would you ever want to run less boost than you're capable of? If you want to go slower, just use your right foot accordingly.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Why? Why would you ever want to run less boost than you're capable of? If you want to go slower, just use your right foot accordingly.

Because believe it or not knowing the car is physically limited to a certain power level keeps my right foot out of it.

In the edge I ran the full kill tune all the time and got legitimately four tickets in three years. I cannot be trusted.

Putting it on the 87 tune has resulted in ticket free for years. Because I get that urge but remember it’s on low boost or low power and I chill and cruise.


TL;DR I have no chill and need adult supervision.

 

[Justin DuBois]

He's self aware enough about the power of the red mist - that he has built in the limits in the pit lane ;-)

 

[CrackedDSM]

He's self aware enough about the power of the red mist - that he has built in the limits in the pit lane ;-)

This is painfully true. It's like something else takes over.


Gonna try to tackle the interior leak next week when I'm off. Maybe today. I need to dig further back in the build thread here and check pictures posted of what the interior looks like with no headliner.

Don't suppose anyone has a stripped 1G right now that you can take pictures for me? Preferably around the top of the windshield where it meets the roof, and of the whole roof itself. Non-sunroof. I'm fairly sure it's the windshield somehow, because I covered the windshield with a tarp and no leaks were present. But I don't like to depend on one result, I like repeatable results.

Cannot express to you guys how exceedingly little I want to remove the headliner. It requires removing the pillar trim, which would require pulling off the super tight fitting a-pillar pod and...ugh. Lol. But I can't have a car in Florida that I can't drive in the rain.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I keep chickening out, but now that fuel is much better...I think next time I'll do a pull to redline. Or close as I can without being a chicken at least.


Any idea why I have to add so much MAFComp to 0-100hz? If I zero that area out, it'll lean misfire and die at idle.

Try tuning to 9200.........your orifices will pucker, I guarantee

 

[CrackedDSM]

Try tuning to 9200.........your orifices will pucker, I guarantee

Screw that. Lol. Although there is a part of me that kinda wants to go full retard on a setup just once.


But yeah, I fixed the popups today. Again.


Word to the wise...do not bother trying to depin the plugs for your ISC Motor, Resistor plug, or Pop-Up Motors. They are held in with magic, even if you do everything properly to release the plugs. They aren't coming out, period. Just cut the plug apart and push the pin out from behind the plug so you don't need to mutilate the pin itself trying to get it out from behind. I finally got sick of mutilating pins and did just that, and they came out completely unscathed and clipped into the new plug perfectly securely.


Or just buy the plug already complete and in pigtail form, and just crimp or solder it into place. I wonder if the ECU plugs are this much of a PITA to de-pin...if they are, then my ECU is just gonna have to live with having the release tab snapped off. Lol.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Screw that. Lol. Although there is a part of me that kinda wants to go full retard on a setup just once....

I'd be glad to just give you a ride, if you promise just to not scream like a woman....

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'd be glad to just give you a ride, if you promise just to not scream like a woman....

That's one thing I don't do is scream. Even before I got into EMS I'm not generally a person that gets scared. If I die, I die.


And trust me, I've been in some hairy situations. Lol.


I would love a ride!

 

[steve]

I wonder if the ECU plugs are this much of a PITA to de-pin? if they are, then my ECU is just gonna have to live with having the release tab snapped off. Lol.

1G's are really easy, 2G's are a little more involved.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-remove-replace-pins-in-harness-connectors.170393/