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Talon and Vette 10_03_24.jpg

Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

Old street racing legend reborn

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Awesome. This makes me happy. It's not like a huge deal but it makes removing the ECU a huge hassle because the retaining clip at the top of the plug is broken. So you have to take a small thin flat-head screwdriver and push each little tab down while pulling to get the plugs out. I don't really plan to remove the ECU ever again, but just knowing I COULD is a huge peace of mind.



I somehow feel dirty though guys. I used butt connectors to attach the plug for the passenger side pop-up motor. I thought I'd be okay with it, but it's bothering me just knowing it exists. :p LOL I may end up going back and soldering/shrink wrapping/3M 33+ electrical taping it so it looks OEM again.
 
That's one thing I don't do is scream. Even before I got into EMS I'm not generally a person that gets scared. If I die, I die.


And trust me, I've been in some hairy situations. Lol.


I would love a ride!
The only reason I even said that is because I gave a ride to a buddy of mine and he screamed like a ***** for me to "STOP STOP STOP...." ROFL
I didn't stop..........:cool:ROFL
 
Thats my son's seat. He holds the laptop while I shit and get. He must be used to it and is very good at making adjustments on the fly if I need them. He has never complained one bit, I think "SPEED" is in his blood! :thumb:
 
Did a little quick fix today that I'm actually fairly excited about. I'm sure you 1G guys know the struggle with the weather stripping on the doors. Mine were hanging down and apparently the old OEM clips were just too worn/too broken so it would sag.


Like so.

IMG_6114.jpeg


Bleh. Looks ugly, and always gets caught when you close the door. But I was researching and found someone recommended some honda weatherstrip clips on ebay, so I found 25 pcs for $10, and bought them.

Here's the old clips.

IMG_6110.jpeg


Here's the new hotness.

IMG_6111.jpeg


The head is slightly bigger, but the shank itself(part that goes into the door) is the same thickness as a new OEM unit. There's a satisfying "click" when you push it in. Here's a couple more comparison pics.

IMG_6112.jpeg
IMG_6113.jpeg


Word of warning though, these things HURT your finger by how you have to grab them to push them in the weatherstrip by the time you get to the 12/13th one. Lol. But, once they're in there, they are held in nice and securely. Push them into the door with a nice solid click and bam! You're left with this.

IMG_6115.jpeg
IMG_6116.jpeg



It's the little things man. I'm loving how this car is coming together.

Next major things are putting A/C back into this thing(will have to figure out why the blower motor doesn't turn on when I flip the fan switch, and install my compressor/new o-rings) and tackling putting the headunit(or a different, better headunit) into this thing so it has a working stereo. After those two things are done, I'm honestly gonna call the restoration complete. But that's fairly far into the future.
 
Those are the same clips I use and they work great.
TBH, I thought it was a cold weather problem. With the door frozen shut, I try to be extra cautious to preserve the door handle by grabbing the top of the door and then hear pop pop pop as the seal remains stuck to the jamb.:ohdamn:
 
Those are the same clips I use and they work great.
TBH, I thought it was a cold weather problem. With the door frozen shut, I try to be extra cautious to preserve the door handle by grabbing the top of the door and then hear pop pop pop as the seal remains stuck to the jamb.:ohdamn:


Oof. I think my problem came from the previous owner ripping them out to replace it or something and broke the clips in the process. Or the Florida heat just eventually made them brittle and they fell out that way.

Super satisfying fix.
 
This is painfully true. It's like something else takes over. LOL


Gonna try to tackle the interior leak next week when I'm off. Maybe today. I need to dig further back in the build thread here and check pictures posted of what the interior looks like with no headliner.

Don't suppose anyone has a stripped 1G right now that you can take pictures for me? Preferably around the top of the windshield where it meets the roof, and of the whole roof itself. Non-sunroof. I'm fairly sure it's the windshield somehow, because I covered the windshield with a tarp and no leaks were present. But I don't like to depend on one result, I like repeatable results.

Cannot express to you guys how exceedingly little I want to remove the headliner. It requires removing the pillar trim, which would require pulling off the super tight fitting a-pillar pod and...ugh. Lol. But I can't have a car in Florida that I can't drive in the rain.
Any of these help?

IMG_8232.jpeg


IMG_8233.jpeg


IMG_8234.jpeg


IMG_8301.jpeg


IMG_8442.jpeg


IMG_8443.jpeg


IMG_8444.jpeg


IMG_8445.jpeg


IMG_8446.jpeg
 


This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a bunch!


Also: I’m gonna really try to get this ac working soon. As in the next few weeks. Even if I fix the leak I still can’t drive the car in the rain because I can’t drive with the windows down and with the windows up they’ll fog like crazy in this Florida humidity and rain.

Plus I want A/C. So yeah. Let’s dive into that can of worms together shall we?
 
Anyone got any experience converting their 1G from R12 to R134a? You can’t find R12 anymore for less than ridiculous prices.


Just curious how you went about it and how it’s still working today.

I’m not expecting any answers so this will probably be another example of getting no help and figuring it out as I go. Lol.


But: officially got the drier, orings, and belt ordered and on the way. Got the r12->R134a conversion fittings on the way too. This is happening!
 
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I've done it on many older Hondas and GM vehicles. It's usually as simple as flushing the system, installing appropriate fittings, and filling with PAG oil + R134. I don't think the DSM has anything special. Your new compressor might be pre filled with mineral oil, so make sure to flush that out and add PAG oil before installation.
 
I did it. My broke ass just bought a conversion kit, an oring kit, some 134a and a cheap gauge. I think I even added an ester charge :ohdamn: Worked but not great.
If I did it over I'd convert it, flush, new dryer, add pag oil, vacuum and charge.
New compressor, condenser, and flex lines would be the cherry on top.
 
I did it. My broke ass just bought a conversion kit, an oring kit, some 134a and a cheap gauge. I think I even added an ester charge :ohdamn: Worked but not great.
If I did it over I'd convert it, flush, new dryer, add pag oil, vacuum and charge.
New compressor, condenser, and flex lines would be the cherry on top.

I’ve got used compressor and condenser, just to see if it works. If it actually goes together and I can get it working I’ll buy new. If they still exist.

But, a new drier is on the way. How would I flush the system? Charge it and evacuate it? I plan to assemble and seal the system and then take it to a good local shop and have them vacuum/charge it for me.

If it matters, these are parts off of systems that I’m not sure the last time they were ran. So I have no clue if they have remnants of R12/mineral oil or pag/R134a.


Also: I’m gonna have to do some digging into electrical diagrams and stuff because when I turn the fan switch on for the inside, nothing happens. The evaporator core is still there because the ports are there on the firewall, so I’m pretty sure the blower motor and stuff is still there. Reeeeeaally hoping I don’t have to pull the dash apart. Lol.
 
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Those are the same clips I use and they work great.
TBH, I thought it was a cold weather problem. With the door frozen shut, I try to be extra cautious to preserve the door handle by grabbing the top of the door and then hear pop pop pop as the seal remains stuck to the jamb.:ohdamn:
Ditto. I have 2 bags of 50 of those clips in stock.
 
Anyone got any experience converting their 1G from R12 to R134a? You can’t find R12 anymore for less than ridiculous prices.


Just curious how you went about it and how it’s still working today.

I’m not expecting any answers so this will probably be another example of getting no help and figuring it out as I go. Lol.


But: officially got the drier, orings, and belt ordered and on the way. Got the r12->R134a conversion fittings on the way too. This is happening!
I need to know eventually too. I do remember finding some other coolant that works on an old r12 system I think but can’t remember the name off hand. Would need to dig pc out to look at my docs.

I’ve got used compressor and condenser, just to see if it works. If it actually goes together and I can get it working I’ll buy new. If they still exist.

But, a new drier is on the way. How would I flush the system? Charge it and evacuate it? I plan to assemble and seal the system and then take it to a good local shop and have them vacuum/charge it for me.

If it matters, these are parts off of systems that I’m not sure the last time they were ran. So I have no clue if they have remnants of R12/mineral oil or pag/R134a.


Also: I’m gonna have to do some digging into electrical diagrams and stuff because when I turn the fan switch on for the inside, nothing happens. The evaporator core is still there because the ports are there on the firewall, so I’m pretty sure the blower motor and stuff is still there. Reeeeeaally hoping I don’t have to pull the dash apart. Lol.
I think I have new Napa parts targeted on my parts list.
Nitrogen flush and vacuum to ___microns? That’s the procedure for a split system at your house not sure if it’s the same with autos. Need to learn more here too….
 
:cool:
Shhhh.....I have 6 cans of R12 for my old cars. My GSX, my 1987 IROC Convertible and my 67 RS Camaro. They all have a/c still.
Check out an old tractor shop for it.
 
:cool:
Shhhh.....I have 6 cans of R12 for my old cars. My GSX, my 1987 IROC Convertible and my 67 RS Camaro. They all have a/c still.
Check out an old tractor shop for it.

Not sure there is one near me. Pensacola has been transformed into like a mini central or south Florida city where everyone wants bougie shit but don’t actually have bougie money. Could try to find a small farm town in south AL though.
 
While I’m waiting for the AC parts, I ordered some window vents/rain guards for the Talon. Hopefully that will help keep the windows from fogging when it rains and allows me to drive the car in the rain without A/C.

At the very least I’m sure it’ll help not get wet. Lol.
 
Not stating any of this for attention or likes or sympathy but I gotta say this somewhere.


God damn what a terrible f*cking weekend to work EMS. Shit has me questioning if I want to even keep doing this job.



On a dsm note: I got some goodies in the mail from a couple members here and will be installing them this week sometime. Right now I’m gonna just go to sleep and wonder what in the f*ck was wrong with me for not grabbing some alcohol on the way home so I’d be absolutely smashed by now.
 
FYI:

Don't change to R12 refrigerant. The AC condenser is too small for R12 and you get lower AC performance with just refrigerant replacement.

Use this R134a replacement instead. Follow their directions on filling. (You don't fill from vacuum.)

 
His 1991 came with R12, which is a better refrigerant. If you convert over to R134a, it isn't quite as good at cooling.
Here is a good read...........
 
I have converted over to 134 on a few vehicles and it works and works "pretty good" but not as cold as R12, but that stuff is pricey if you can find it. Check an old tractor supply as tractors used R12.
DEFINITELY don't mix them. You get "milkshake" in the lines. My 67 Camaro has that issue and I need to flush it completely and recharge it.
 
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