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AC Removal [Merged 12-8] removing eliminating taking out off

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DeathBeast

20+ Year Contributor
177
0
Mar 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
Does anyone have any instructions (step by step for DUMMIES) on how to remove the air condition system?

-I never use it anyways. (If it's hot, I'm scared I'll overheat car, if it's cold, I wouldn't dare LOL
-What benifits will I get for removing it?

Thanx,
DeathBeast
 
Wing0tj said:
I took the a/c out of my car, WAY easier with the head/ IM off, I have been looking for a little while now for a blank for the space where the a/c contol button goes in the car does anyone know where I might be able to get one?

well, some of us don't have the priviledge or the time to take the HEAD out, :sosad: , but it is possible to remove the AC Compressor even with the INTAKE MANIFOLD in there. I've done it, now I have a lot more room to work with the INTAKE MANIFOLD. Removing the AC compressor works great if you ever need to replace the KNOCK SENSOR behind the block.

If you are like me, with no more R12 freon, and is too expensive to retro fit it to the r134, TAKE THE AC sytem outta under the hood, save about 50lbs of dead wait, increase the air flow to the main radiator, release some of the drag of the crank pulley that used to run the AC COMPRESSOR. It can't hurt, but it can only help......... :thumb:
 
There's only parasitic loss when the a/c is running, and if you're using a keydiver chip, he uses the code that disables the compressor when you're at WOT. So I don't really see the point of pulling it out. It'll suck for sure when it's humid as hell and you have no way to defog the windshield.
 
Quasimondo said:
There's only parasitic loss when the a/c is running, and if you're using a keydiver chip, he uses the code that disables the compressor when you're at WOT. So I don't really see the point of pulling it out. It'll suck for sure when it's humid as hell and you have no way to defog the windshield.

very true, BUT like i said, if your freon is gone, and you can't retro fit it, toss the AC SYSTEM, and AT LEAST SAVE SOME ROOM in the engine compartment to work on. Since when our DSM's are cars that are made to be driven as a refrigerator on wheels? We have DSM's to kick azzzzzzphalt all over the world..... :sneaky:
 
DSMeclipse4G63 said:
ok you may gain 15hp at MOST that is still alot for just the ac. All you have to do is take the belt off and the crank doesnt have to turn it anymore.

Is that with just taking the belt off... Even if the A/C turned off its like 5-15HP. If thats the case how much does it draw when its engaged?
 
KEEP YOUR A/C!!! :nono:

put in the time and effort into another side job and BUY A BIGGER TURBO and injectors! or bore out your bottom end or find a stroker kit or a 2.4 but keep the A/C :thumb:
 
booosting92tsi said:
very true, BUT like i said, if your freon is gone, and you can't retro fit it, toss the AC SYSTEM, and AT LEAST SAVE SOME ROOM in the engine compartment to work on. Since when our DSM's are cars that are made to be driven as a refrigerator on wheels? We have DSM's to kick azzzzzzphalt all over the world..... :sneaky:


I'd rather kick "azzzzzzphalt" while being cool. Wife likes it better that way too.

I'm sure all the hotties will enjoy your car more if their not sweating through their panties!!

I payed $150 to covert my car...worth every penny!
 
booosting92tsi said:
very true, BUT like i said, if your freon is gone, and you can't retro fit it, toss the AC SYSTEM, and AT LEAST SAVE SOME ROOM in the engine compartment to work on. Since when our DSM's are cars that are made to be driven as a refrigerator on wheels? We have DSM's to kick azzzzzzphalt all over the world..... :sneaky:

They make retro kits to adapt our old R12A systems to use R134 refrigerant. I've been using it on mine for the past two summers. And there won't be much room you're saving since the compressor is at the back of the block on the bottom and the hoses are out of the way as well. Maybe you'll save a bit of time when it comes to changing the timing belt, but I still don't see any need to remove the a/c system unless you're building up a dedicated race car.
 
to anybody considering taking out the ac and heater box inside. i know in PA for a legit inspection the defroster has to work it doesnt have to get hot or cold but air has to come out of the defrost vents
 
I was wondering if it is possible to remove the ac from a 2nd gen awd if so how do you do this and is there any advantage.
 
It's possible, but I don't see the advantage. There's no parasitic loss when the A/C is off because of the clutch in the pulley. Unless you're building a full race car, there's nothing to gain. Pulling the A/C for weight savings is as insane as hiring a jockey for a driver.
 
I believe that the wieght that the belt/pulley is pulling may issue some power, but as he said, there is no real gain. Now, if you have something wrong, you might as well pull the belt, that is one less belt to screw up the rest.
When I pulled mine, I think I gained 1 HP, but that was a Gtech PRO, so accuracy varies.
however- I saw a 3-5 MPG gain, I was suprised about that, that extra weight pulled some extra combustion.
 
i can't answer the belt cutting but can tell you that if your ac is working you will regret taking it out. i have done it! if it is not working is is still something to think about.
 
I took all the ac hoses and condensor out already and cut the ac belt off but i am not sure how to remove the compressor itself,are there any electronics that have to be unplugged, also any oil lines or anything. If so what do i do with them.
 
There is a eletrical connector on the compressor. Feel around the back side and you will feel it. Then removing it invloves 4 bolts if I am not mistaking. Been a few years since I pulled a AC system. Thing you have to keep in mind is that you will need to leave the compessor bracket bolted to the block since it has a bracket to hold your halfshaft. Being you a AWD, FWD do not have this problem. Some people have stacked up washers or cut the eyelet of the bolt hole that holds the halfshaft bracket then reinsert under the bracket to keep it in line. The 4 bolts you need to remove are quite long and pass all the way thru the compressor and can be a beotch to remove since they typically hit the firewall before coming out. The compessor itself CAN be pulled up thru the top of the engine bay, you may curse and swear a bit trying to figure this out. But MAKE SURE THE BRAKE RESIVOUR CAP IS ON TIGHT. unbolt it and move it aside, hopefully you do not have any bad hose that break when doing this (never seen it on a DSM just some old POS I worked on), then remove any eletronoics/ vacuum hose/ brackets or connectors around there. The more room the better, then pull the pully end of the compressor up first. then twist the compessor till it starts to come, then finalge it out. I have done this to 3 2Gs, and 2 1Gs.

Also bear in mind that the refriderant is a corrsive agent, so if you leak some on your engine, firewall, ect. It is best to wipe it off good (use soap and water if you want, just make sure not to get the eletronic componets wet.)

The bracket weights almost as much as the compessor does, so afer removing the compressor think of a way to keep the halfshaft bracket in place and get rid of the bracket, since I assume you are doing this for weight issues being yo ulive in FL where it is already in the 90's. After doing this to my car I suffer from a bad case of swampass anytime it is humid and hot. And it sucks when it rains in the summer. As a result the girlfirend hates my car, but now that it does not even have a real dash/ interior in it, she hates it more, ohh well. Luckly I have another car to drive.
 
i have a 91 eagle talon tsi and am wanting to remove all of the ac from the car has anyone done this i did a search but didnt find anything...if anyone has done this what all should i remove from the car lines condensor etc..thanks
 
You can also remove the ac relay box and wiring harness. Its located on the passenger side of the engine bay by the firewall.
You will also need to mount the axle bracket the orginally mounts to the ac bracket. You cna either cut the bracket and use it or get a loner bolt with a bunch of washers and mount it to where the ac bracket would mount.
 
ChicksDigBoost said:
You can also remove the ac relay box and wiring harness. Its located on the passenger side of the engine bay by the firewall.
You will also need to mount the axle bracket the orginally mounts to the ac bracket. You cna either cut the bracket and use it or get a loner bolt with a bunch of washers and mount it to where the ac bracket would mount.

correction its the drivers side on the 90-91
 
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