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eliminating ABS [Merged 8-8] removing removal deleting delete take off

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OMN_DSM

20+ Year Contributor
332
0
Dec 13, 2001
Has anyone here removed there ABS system from there car? I want to get rid of mine for 1. it doesn't even work properly, 2. wieght reduction 3. puts me more in control of the car.

I need to know what all is involved what parts I will need for the swap and any other info that may be useful. Thanks agian

Mike
 
so the abs does not have its own harness but rather intertwined with other wires that are still needed? i might play it safe and not touch it.
 
yeah i was looking at mine, there is a wiring harness going back there but theres other stuff mixed in with it. doesnt look too hard to figure which is which and remove it all though. like stated, just time consuming.
 
does anyone know how to remove the ABS controller from a '95 TSI AWD? At least a description would be nice, but a nicely written and illustrated guide would be teriffic.

I know I'm smoking crack on that last one though.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks much
-j
 
Try vfaq.com. Haven't been there for a while but might have something to point you in the right direction. :thumb: :dsm:
 
Well, in short (since I'm not looking at it right now).

- Pull up passenger side carpet under the dash.

- Remove the metal "foot plate"

- You're now looking at the ABS controller :) What's next should be obvious :)
 
I am in the process of removing my ABS system and am wondering how you went about removing the wiring. Did you just unplug the computer then just follow each wire to where it originates and cut it off there? Any help would be great. Thanks
 
I just removed my abs wiring ant the only wires mixed in were the passenger auto seatbelt and door pin switch wires. I also disabled the auto seatbelts and locked them into position so the only wires I had to save were for the door pin switch. Much easier than anticipated.
 
I wish mine was that easy. Coming from the ABS computer I am counting about 20 wires. Would it be right to just follow all of the wires and cut them? So far i have traced the wires to the G sensor and can follow the wires to the rear two speed sensors. The hardest part is going to be running the wires back through the passenger fender and into the engine bay. any advice on how to do that? Thanks
 
waggi32 said:
I wish mine was that easy. Coming from the ABS computer I am counting about 20 wires. Would it be right to just follow all of the wires and cut them? So far i have traced the wires to the G sensor and can follow the wires to the rear two speed sensors. The hardest part is going to be running the wires back through the passenger fender and into the engine bay. any advice on how to do that? Thanks

I dont really have a clue with a 2g, but a 1g, follow all the wires and see where they go. As far as the rear sensors on a 1g, they are only for abs so cutting them has no detrimental affects. With the 2g, they could(probably not) searve more purpose than just for abs.
 
I am in the process of deleting the abs system. I used the search but couldn't find any pics of the abs control unit and I want to make 100% sure this is it before I rip it out. It is located on the passenger side by the backseat.
 
i hate the abs in my 93 talon. it randomly kicks in when im pushing the brakes, not even hard whatsoever, just lightly like getting onto and off ramp off the highway or soemthing. it sucks. i want it out!!! but have no idea what to do or start haha. if anyone could help me out 100% with instructions on how to do it all, or send me a link to it, that would be more than appreciated. thanks! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
 
eclipsegst3131 said:
i hate the abs in my 93 talon. it randomly kicks in when im pushing the brakes, not even hard whatsoever, just lightly like getting onto and off ramp off the highway or soemthing. it sucks. i want it out!!! but have no idea what to do or start haha. if anyone could help me out 100% with instructions on how to do it all, or send me a link to it, that would be more than appreciated. thanks! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:


http://www.mckeone.net/abs.html You need lines from mc to proportioning valve, proportioning valve, and front brake lines from a donor car.
 
The first thing you'll need is a non-ABS proportioning valve and two new hard lines that go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve and two hard lines that go from the valve to the wheels (4 lines total). I picked up the valve at a junkyard for really cheap and ordered new lines from the dealership. I know MachV (on our sponsors page) sells the valve new. Now, one of the hard lines you'll need that goes to the MC is not made anymore. I just bought two of the one that is still produced and did a little bending to make it fit, it was really easy to do.

As for the removal, it was a piece of cake for me because the engine was out. You'll have to do a lot of wiggling around behind the intake manifold I'd imagine and pulling your battery will probably make it easier. Just unlplug the connectors, disconnect the lines, cut out the old hard lines (prepare to get brake fluid everywhere - try to keep it off the paint), and unbolt everything that will come out. Be careful to only cut the lines that you won't be using anymore. Put the new valve in, route your new hard lines, do some bending on that one line, and bolt everything back down. Once everything is bolted in, fill the MC with fluid and follow the instructions in the manual to bleed your MC and the rest of the system afterward.
 
You will also need the hard lines that go from the proportioning valve to the fender well for the front brakes.. The original lines go from the abs unit to the rubber caliper lines so they will not possibly work for the abs removal. That would make 4 hard lines needed, not 2.
 
Removing the ABS was one of the best mods that i have ever done to my car. The only one that was a problem for me was the line that went to the pass. side brake caliper, but it was just me being stupid :p. And its not that hard of a job with the engine still in but it might help to take the Intake manifold off (I didnt tho)
 
It was a piece of cake for me. If you want to save some time, get some dykes and just cut off the old front passenger and drivers side brake lines that go from the abs unit to the calipers. The non abs drivers side brake line is easy, the passengers side is not too bad with the engine still in. Make sure that you tighten the new lines onto the non abs proportioning valve first, then tighten the P valve to the firewall. Otherwise, its kinda hard to work in that area with the intake manifold still in.
 
Is there a after market Proportioning Valve that will work i can not see spending 70 bucks from machv for a stock one.
 
Hit up the junkyard or look for a car being parted out on the board. I got mine for $10 shipped from a guy that was parting out a car.

BTW, 3 of the 4 lines you need are no longer made now. The only line that I was able to get was the line that goes from the proportioning valves ton the driver side wheel well.

If your going to make your own lines, make sure you get a double flaring kit and a brake tube bender. Bending brake lines by hand isnt bad, but when it comes to doing a 90 degree, you can kink the line and not even know it.

Personnaly though, I would try to source out a car that you can get the lines from, just DONT BE LAZY and go and buy a 10mm Flare wrench.
 
http://www.mckeone.net/abs.html You need lines from mc to proportioning valve, proportioning valve, and front brake lines from a donor car.

You could still order the front driver side line NEW. The passenger side you can not. Get that one from a donor.

You can also still order the prop to master lines new.

Proportioning valve(non-ABS):

MB699-645 caps# 55876 $42.58

Master cylinder to proportioning valve lines:

MB534-426 caps# 56256B $4.52

MB500-561 caps# 56255B $4.88

Front brake lines to proportioning valve:

MB534-428 caps# 56267L (driver side) $5.15
 
When I deleted my abs, I just unhooked the lines from the abs pump and threaded them into my non abs proportioning valve. All I had to do was some minor bending of the stock lines to get them to thread in.

It has been 2 yrs since i did this with no ill effects and it stops on a dime.
 
When I deleted my abs, I just unhooked the lines from the abs pump and threaded them into my non abs proportioning valve. All I had to do was some minor bending of the stock lines to get them to thread in.

It has been 2 yrs since i did this with no ill effects and it stops on a dime.


that does not sound like a bad idea seeing all the lines end up in that one place anyway.
 
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