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eliminating ABS [Merged 8-8] removing removal deleting delete take off

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OMN_DSM

20+ Year Contributor
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Dec 13, 2001
Has anyone here removed there ABS system from there car? I want to get rid of mine for 1. it doesn't even work properly, 2. wieght reduction 3. puts me more in control of the car.

I need to know what all is involved what parts I will need for the swap and any other info that may be useful. Thanks agian

Mike
 
i don't mind the ABS system on the 1G car.....but I would just rather not have it. I was wondering is there any way to disable the ABS system to where i would have normal brakes or eliminate the whole system.... I did a tech search and a forum search for stuff about the ABS but i didn't find what i was looking for. Maybe I overlooked too. I would assume the ABS system can be entirely removed... but i don't know what kind of work it would take. I have a repair book on the way...just trying to get a jump start. any info would be helpful... TIA!
 
woooow. I'm smart...I never thought of that haha. Wow....still blown away at how dumb I am haha. Well I think I can figure out where the fuse is. well what about removing the ABS entirely? I guess I would have to put in a standard brake assembly? is that something anyone else here has done?
 
You got to get a non-abs proportioning valve as well as 2 new front brake lines I believe...
 
Alright. Thanks. I'll do some more research when I get my repair manual. I'm just trying to get an idea of what it would take...it doesn't sound too difficult. just time consuming haha.
 
I'm about to pick up my 1992 Eagle Talon and plan on doing almost a full rebuild of everything. My question is will there be any advantage to getting rid of the abs. I never had a vehicle with it so its not something I'm used to. Thanks.
 
Marginal weight savings and more room in the engine bay pretty much sums up the advantages of getting rid of it. It's not something I would ever do in my car though, mainly because of this
 
I got rid of my 94's ABS for two reasons:

1) the single channel ABS system is WAAAYYY to sensitive... IMO, I could stop the car better now without it then I ever could when it was still active & in the car.

2) More room in the engine bay. Larger FMIC pipes, h2o injection kit, etc, etc...

As for the removal process, it's pretty straight forward... Remove the ABS motor assembly and the 6 lines that connect to it (2 front brake caliper lines, 2 Brake Master Cylinder, and 2 Rear proportioning valve).

You will need a Non ABS proportioning valve and 4 Non ABS lines (2 Brake Master Cylinder lines and 2 Front brake caliper lines. I got a great deal ($30 bux for all of it off a super clean NA 2.0L in the wrecking yard... No problems reusing the used lines what so ever).

IMO, the best time to do this is while you are rebuilding the motor and it's not in the way of removing and re-installing the new lines. Be sure to soak each of the hard line fittings with PB Blaster for a few days prior to removal as they have Lock-Tight Red applied to them from the factory. These can strip out VERY easily, so be sure to use a 10mm line wrench as well.

When you are all finished, you could also remove the electrical components (as I did)... This is what the pile of removed ABS crap looked like:

-HIGHLY recommended!:thumb:
 

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Marginal weight savings and more room in the engine bay pretty much sums up the advantages of getting rid of it. It's not something I would ever do in my car though, mainly because of this


Although I would agree with THAT article, keep in mind that the ABS systems as a whole have evolved TREMENDOUSLY since our 1G single channel ABS system was conceived.... You can't compare a modern multi-channel ABS System to that of our first generation ABS equipped cars. -There's about 10 years of R&D & technology that isn't mentioned in that article when comparing the modern ABS systems to that of our outdated 1g DSM ABS systems.
 
So did you just run all new lines to each caliper or were you able to just connect them in the engine bay.
 
So did you just run all new lines to each caliper or were you able to just connect them in the engine bay.
You need the 2 front wheel hard lines off a Non-ABS 1G and also the 2 hard lines that go from the proportional valve to the master cylinder.

The 2 rear hard lines do not need to be changed since they just bolt up to the P-valve. It's as simple as that. I clears so much room on that side of the engine compartment. It was a great mod since my ABS computer was already fried, so the system was useless.
 
Can anyone recomend a nice article on removing ABS on a 2g or can some one let me know if this thread holds true for 2g's. All my searches turned up 1g's thanks guys
edit: don't trying talking me out of it because I already cut the lines and removed the abs box
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:p
 

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Why would I not past road inspection out of the 4 cars I have my DSM is the only one with ABS. Do all 2g awd dsm's come with ABS?
 
Wish I had a picture but if you trace the wire harness to the passengers side where it enters the Car it goes to a little box? What does this box do is it just ABS?
 
And for the fuse I have a 50A that goes to ABS and nothing that goes to the 10A ABS 4WD? so what is the diffrence between ABS and ABS 4WD? I have a gsx by the way
 
You need to obtaina non-abs proportioning valve and front brake lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve and from the prop valve to the front wheel wells. Remove the old front lines, prop valve and ABS module. Install the new stuff. It's pretty simple, minus the arm twisting to make everything fit just right.
 
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