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99 GSX Rebirth/Clean-Up/Build

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Hello Hello Hello,

This 4 day weekend I had I got a couple things wrapped up.

first of all I completely wrapped up the fusebox harness, loomed and secured with those sweet zip tie clips that they use from the factory. I did this so I could install my fenders/fender liners 100%.

I then installed the hood/hood struts/front bumper and pushed the car outside to wash it, I hated brushing up against the car with it being covered in dirt.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I also removed all the tape on everything to get all the dirt/ dust off everything in the bay. I will probably just use towels/rags to prevent getting any chips in the paint, i have most of the big items installed so don't have too much shit flying around in the bay.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr



Next I installed my new 3-way terminal for my power throughout the car, its just a little distribution block I mounted under the dash to an existing stud for the HVAC equipment I yanked out. I may loom the two powers on the right but with the carpet up you can't see them at all so idk. Who cares. LOL

Next up was my coil pack relocation. Before I just never got around to making a mount for them and they were just dangling behind the intake manifold... I know... horrible..

So I fabbed up some little aluminum pieces to put it exactly where I wanted it. Turned out great and still works with 2g wires.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


Next thing I wanted to do was mount my oil pressure sending unit. This time around I'm remote mounting it because the vibration issues with mounting it directly to the filter housing.

I connected my line to the OFH and then got a feel for where I wanted my sensor located, I found some unused bolt holes back here on the cross member so I think this was a suitable spot.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I love making little brackets for stuff like this, its soooo easy to get a strip of aluminum in the correct shape you want. I always have pieces of aluminum on hand for this very reason.

I drilled my holes and bent up a piece of AL.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


I installed the sensor, using a rubber grommet in the hole for the sensor also.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


Then BOOM, done.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Put the sensor in the perfect place to minimize bay wiring for the sensor. I think i'm going to punch a 3/4 bit throught the firewall and grommet it for the AEM boost/OIL press sensor harnesses. I unfortunately was a rookie and cut a hole in the steering boot the first time I installed gauges back when I was in high school.. Would rather not do that again.


Another thing I've been wanting to do for a while was plug up all unused holes.

You can see the three middle bumper bolts I do not use, I just feel they are unnecessary. So I plugged these up. You can also see some other holes on the upper rad support that are plugged. Basically every hole in the bay is plugged to prevent dirt and shit from blowing in the bay, and water etc etc. Trying to keep it clean!!

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I love how the wrinkle black powdercoat looks on all the brackets. It makes it look so much more refined/complete.


Another pic for good measure.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 
I ordered a couple odds/ends for the eclipse today.

Finally got all my blank rotors for the brembo set up. I had slotted before but I wanted to go with the OEM fresh look with the blank rotors. I also ordered a couple gaskets, one for the FIAV blockoff etc etc. Ordered all the correct vacuum ports for the bottom of the intake manifold that I will need. Also ordered the MAP sensor jmf adapter so I can install my intake manifold for good since everything will be neat and tidy underneath it.

So this weekend I will hopefully install all the brakes (after I paint them) and torque all the suspension parts to spec.

I'm going to paint marker all the bolts this time to see about vibrating loose etc etc, and to help remember which bolts I torqued LOL.

-I need to wire up my gauges and route all of the sensors for those.
-I need to buy install turbine housing for the HX40, just going with the turbo labs .82 A/R.
-I need to buy install the drain line for hx40, going with -12AN again.
-I need to install the water pipe and t-stat housing etc
-I need to buy/install a fuel rail
-I need to buy/install a 44mm TiAL wastegate
-I need to figure out a downpipe situation, have one made probably.
-I need to buy all new couplers for the intercooler setup
-I need to buy/install an intake pipe/filter
-I need to buy/install a catch can setup and lines (going with a gamble garage can again)
-I need to get my injectors cleaned/flow tested.

So thats about it!

Not too bad.

Peace!

-Brady
 
Love the build and the diary of its progress. It looks great and is motivating. I wanted to ask a question and I apologize if I simply missed the answer. What type of Rustoleum paint did you use on the engine bay and how well is it holding up? 4 stage paint job? (Rust Inhibitor, Primer, Paint, Clear?)

Keep up the good work!
 
Love the build and the diary of its progress. It looks great and is motivating. I wanted to ask a question and I apologize if I simply missed the answer. What type of Rustoleum paint did you use on the engine bay and how well is it holding up? 4 stage paint job? (Rust Inhibitor, Primer, Paint, Clear?)

Keep up the good work!

Thanks a ton! Means a lot.

For the bay I have painted it multiple times. I will ignore the first two times since I then soda blasted the bay and did a full 3 stage with professional gun setup.

When I soda blasted the entire bay down to bare metal, I used my sherwin williams house brand self etching primer and base/clear coats. I DUMPED clear on the bay to allow for buffing etc etc. Well I had an oil leak for about two years that eventually yellowed the clear coat, it was a LOT of oil.

This paint job did hold up very well though. BUT my passenger tower had a rust bubble that I needed to take care of, and the drivers side had many chips from me rushing an engine removal job. So the whole bay needed to be re-done.

I didn't think it was necessary to spend $400 on paint from Sherwin williams, and blast the bay again, so I went with Automotive Touchup .com paint.

I have nothing but good things to say. Cost me $70 for all the color and clear as well as some sandpaper for the entire bay. I used U-POL Weld thru primer and U-POL self etching primer for the bare metal spots. I think this is the best option for someone in my position where the car is no where near a "showcar" but will be cleaner than any dsm I see on the road personally.

Hope this answers your questions!

-Brady
 
I got started on mounting the front brembos. I hate how much work it is to grind the caliper to fit the bolt in that goes to the knuckle. soo manyy metalll shavingggssss. I need to find these dumb fittings to go from my -3an brake lines to connect to the m10x1 caliper banjo bolt.. so hard to find apparently.

Anyway, here's another pic of the bay with some new lighting. Its a huge pic so you can zoom in and see all the rubber plugs I put in some unused holes.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 

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Looks amazing, the car keeps getting better and better. Glad you decided to stay with it.

I remember PM'ing you 4-5 years ago asking about the first paint (Rustoleum Professional I think) you used on your bay. Mine is holding up great.

Keep up the clean work, definitely an inspiration to us all!
 
Did some wrenching this weekend.

First off I was tapping my knuckles to mount the brembos since I got new knuckles, my freaking Matco tap snapped off in the knuckle..... So I said screw it and got the knuckles prepped (minus the tapping of the upper ear) and just installed them.

I wanted to get them done so I could install my new axles and torque everything down underneath the car, so I did accomplish that. I'll just have to remove the rotor and tap the upper ear when I get my new tap in. Then I can install the brakes!

I then turned my attention to some wiring, specifically the gauges. I wanted to have everything ran correctly, not through the steering shaft boot like before.... tsk tsk....

I wanted to install the intake manifold for good so I could get the brake booster line, FPR, and gauge sensors all buttoned up.

I started out with getting the correct vacuum fittings on the underside of the intake manifold.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

The MAP sensor adaptor is supposed to have a barb on the backside of it but I wanted it mounted straight to the intake manifold so I got a 1/4-1/4 union piece. You can also see my boost sensor and some bungs for booster/fpr etc etc.

I will just tee the vacuum lines for everything else I need.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

The next thing I did was run the boost sensor harness and oil pressure harness to their respective sensors in the bay. I did this so I would be able to add some wire to the gauge harnesses and run the plugs how I wanted to, through an existing grommet in the firewall that I was using for my starter power wire.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see I loomed all these thigns together. zip tied them up nice and made sure there was nothing rubbing on anything.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see the boost sensor up top and the oil pressure sensor in the background plugged in.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


I will say that I cut both sensor harnesses right under the dash and labeled them. I know I will have to add some wire and I also wanted these to be perfect length so I was going to cut them anyway. Previously I had all the harnesses bunched up and zip tied under the dash.. There was a LOT of slack with all three gauges and the Wideband sensor.


This time around I didn't want each gauge to have its own loom, It gets too thick trying to pull it down under the dash at the drivers side a-pillar, So I de-loomed everything.

The begining of the gauge wiring started with me thinking I was going to connect all the power wires underneath the gauge pod, as well as the grounds. I thought it was necessary to run three separate powers and three separate grounds, these gauges don't draw much current, I believe I will be fine. Someone chime in if you think I'm an idiot for doing this.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see in the picture above that I removed all the AEM loom from their harnesses, I was getting these ready to combine the power and grounds from each gauge.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

In the above picture you can see I had successfully soldered the three gauge powers into one. I had each power/ ground connection heat shrunk individually, then I heat shrunk the whole batch, ground and powers, together to keep things nice before I started on the actual sensor harnesses for each gauge.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Above you can see I have everything taped together and ready to run down the a-pillar to under the dash where I will make all the final connections and loom everything. I still need to wrap up the wideband sensor, currently the whole plug is beneath the floor board since I couldn't fit the sensor through an existing oem hole, I will cut and re-solder the plug so the plug will be above the floorboard and inside the cabin.

Peace!

-Brady
 
Build is looking great!

Have you considered swapping to a 1G radiator to move the filler neck more towards the passenger side and away from your runner? (I may have missed this when I went through the build)
 
Build is looking great!

Have you considered swapping to a 1G radiator to move the filler neck more towards the passenger side and away from your runner? (I may have missed this when I went through the build)

I will not be switching to a 1g rad. There are plenty of people running a punishment manifold with stock 2g rads. (there is an orange one parked next to mine in the garage running the setup actually) I think I'll be fine. I cut the rad hose down about an inch to bring it over further, It is about 1.25-1.50 inches away from the runner now.
 
Spent a couple of hours wiring lastnight. I wanted my gauge wiring to be super clean and easily traceable etc etc.

I started with the wideband sensor under the drivers side floor pan. I know this isn't the proper distance from turbo but I think its fine for my purposes.

I originally couldn't fit the plug through this existing hole in the floor pan so there was no grommet, the plug connected to the sensor harness through this hole, but neither plug could physically fit.. if that makes sense.

So I snipped that thing right where I wanted it. I found a good grommet and started measuring out lengths, and where I wanted the actual plug to be. I found a good spot that would allow a clip under the radio.

You can see the pigtail and the grommet in this picture.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

So I added some length to this pigtail and routed it up to where I want it. The gauge side plug will clip into the existing hole in the center console structure. I'll show pics when I get that far soon.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I wanted to get this wideband sensor location dialed in so I would know how much to hack off the gauge-side of the wideband gauge harness. It ended up being about 4 feet of wire, which previously I had coiled up under the dash and I hated it. It was such a mess.

I ran my power wire to the ignition wire, my turbo timer harness has a convenient pigtail coming off of it. I wire loomed the power wire and zip tied the power and the ground wires to OEM harnesses in close proximity to keep things from wiggling loose etc, its soooo much better under the dash as far as wire mess goes. Its also much better only having the one power and ground wire coming down from the a-pillar gauge pod.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You cant see much in this pic but you can zoom in and see my ground to the left of the fusebox and the power wire has the mesh loom on it. You can also see the large gauge harness going under the carpet, it meets up with the two gauge pigtails from the engine bay underneath the center of the dash, perfect! I thought about how it will be a pain to replace these sensors but I'm perfectly okay with just cutting and soldering in a new sensor, if it means I can route everything the way I want. Not sweating it. I will still have the plug for the wideband sensor though, I haven't gotten to that yet.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see where the harnesses meet, each has a green tape tag at the end of the harness.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 
Meh, I've seen better than this. JK, I probably haven't. Quick question: where do you buy aluminum brackets and how do you bend them?
 
Meh, I've seen better than this. JK, I probably haven't. Quick question: where do you buy aluminum brackets and how do you bend them?

I just buy aluminum strips, like 4' strips, I just cut and bend in a vice. They really do come in handy. Much better than zip ties haha, and easily drilled for any size bolt. I get them from ACE hardware.
 
Bought the last bits of the puzzle today!

-New clutch res cap
-New clutch res bracket
-New brake res cap
-FIAV o-ring ( really not sure where my old one went LOL..)
-T3 6-ply gasket
-HX40 .82 A/R 67x76 housing from TurboLabs
-HX40 -12 Drain setup, (3/4 NPT to -12, (2) -12 45° barb fittings)
-Earls M10x1.00 to -3AN brake fittings for the front brembos.
-(2) -8 90° hose ends (to loop the line on the oil filter housing, I plan on getting another cooler eventually)
-New clutch - Slave cylinder braided line (old one is a little messed up from an oil leak, can't have that)


-I also just threw away all the shitty punishment racing intercooler couplers so I need to buy about 6 new couplers. I'll pick these up from a local speed shop.


Biggest piece of the puzzle left is a downpipe setup. May go to a custom fab shop to get one done. We will see.

-Peace!
 
Bought some more odds/ends today.

-All new silicone intercooler couplers, mostly mishimoto but the two 45° couplers I ordered an off brand off of Amazon. Didn't feel like spending $40 for each coupler from mishimoto.
-Forced performance cast intake, w/ large filter. ( I love the look of these with the cast aluminum) easily weldable as well for catch can setup.
-1/8 wire loom, got a huge spool of this for all sensors/plugs.

Shooting for running/driving by the end of the month!

Peace!

-Brady
 
Yo!

So I got some parts in.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I HATED looking at these faded/yellow clutch/brake reservoir caps, so those were the first to go.

Before:

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

After:

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Next was the clutch reservoir cap and bracket. I love how you can still buy this bracket, and its nice and gold zinc coated still.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I got a new clutch line since my old one was pretty discolored from some oil leaks i used to have. Also buttoned up all the T-stat stuff. Everything is wrinkle black powdercoat with all new zinc bolts as well.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I got my T3 TurboLab .82 A/R housing. I threw that on to check compressor cover clocking etc.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 
Got a couple parts in.

I got all new Mishimoto couplers for the punishment racing intercooler kit. I had already replaced all the shitty t-bolt clamp with CLAMPCO SS clamps.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I wanted to mock up all the pipes and see if I needed any different angles or longer couplers since the JMF intake sits a fair amount lower than stock, but everything worked out great. I am going to hack off the bolt flange on the TB elbow piping and slip a 2.5"-3" reducer on that to the S90. Should be perfect.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I also am not sure about the BOV, I think I want to get it Powdercoated to match the VC, but am not sure... Open for opinions.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I ground the v-band off of the compressor housing to fit a 2.5" coupler on it. Everything is lining up perfectly for me.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I have to get this new v-band welded on the o2 housing as well.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I (THINK) This o2 housing will place me in the correct spot for an off-the-shelf downpipe. But I MAY bite the bullet and get a full 3" downpipe fabbed up by a local shop here. We will see.

Biggest expense I'm saving up for is a Tial 44mm wastegate. And after that I think thats about it... Besides the downpipe.

My friend is visiting this weekend so I will probably not even look at the eclipse.

I've also been hard at work building some furniture for my rooftop deck. Built the Pallet bar and all the lighting posts. Its coming together. Nice view of downtown Denver from up there.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 
I shot over to the hardware store to wrap a couple things up this past weekend. I had a friend in town so I only got some time in yesterday.

Things I wrapped up:

-Got hardware for OFH, plugged the OFH cooling ports since I am not running a cooler at this time.
-Got hardware for my FIAV blockoff plate, installed that along with a new Mitsu o-ring gasket
-Wrapped up my turbo oil drain
-Finished ALL wiring, gauges, harnesses etc.
-Installed main engine harness and plugged in the connectors that I have.
-Installed all interior panels correctly using all OEM mitsu clips/screws/bolts that I have scavenged from cars at the junkyard.
-Routed and installed my slave master cylinder, may changed up the routing. Currently at the top of the firewall and very visible, I don't like that LOL.
-Clocked turbo correctly and installed exhaust manifold/turbo.
-Installed turbo oil feed.

On to the pics!

FIAV blockoff installation.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


Turbo oil drain fitting, had to make a new gasket here with some gasket maker.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Interior complete! Everything plugged in, everything working (so far).

No squeaking panels, every clip replaced with new/refurbished clips.

I will eventually try to find an evo 9 wheel again, but until then my 8 wheel will work fine.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr



You can see the slave cylinder line routing in this. I think I will change it up.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


Had to make sure the sunroof still worked!

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr



I need to trim my throttle body elbow since it used to be a bolt on unit, now it will have a silicone coupler on it. Also am missing about 6 t-bolt clamps so I will order those bad boys to get the IC piping all wrapped up!

Peace!

-Brady
 
Sup...

Picked up a new FP intake/filter/coupler. I loveee the looks of these, especially brand new.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


I will have to get the catch can fitted on this (again) but I'm going to wait on the catch can setup until the car is up and running. I never had any oil in it anyway. I should be okay.

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In the picture above I've since switched the oil feed routing, no clue why I put it behind the turbo.



Just a couple pictures of some detail shots of the bay.

I need to get a nut on this stud, I also think this should be a bolt but oh well, maybe I'll get the bolt.


Cam gears would also be nice haha, but strictly visual in my situation.

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I love how you can still buy the oem clutch res bracket, I want everything to look brand new, and a painted bracket was not going to work haha.

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^That is fully wired up also I may add!

I'm selling my o2 housing to put that money towards a custom downpipe from turbo to catback. I figure its less of a chance of leaks blowing on my alternator.

Peace!

-Brady
 
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