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6266 Build or Bust

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LOL dude I’m just so sick of never ending clutch issues, I tried LOL, I think the auto will be a blast on the street, tomorrow im going to start pulling everything :thumb:
 
Prior to last Sunday I was set on getting a twin disk, but I’m like damn, for that price and a future PPG/NEAT gearset I could have a consistent fully built auto set up LOL, I know each set up has its pros and cons, I’ll miss shifting gears in town, but the feel of an auto getting into boost and never falling out of it or being blocked from a gear would be pretty sweet too LOL
 
I am blessed to have both. I think you will get used to it and also like it.
This was fun with my oldest son. His friend did the video and my son accused me of using my "scramble" button but I didn't. I was at 24lbs he was at 35. I was on a HX40, he was on a HX35. I was in my 1g he was in his 2g. I was pulling away slowly but we only ran our motors to 7500. :p:cool::thumb:
 
Hell yeh it was fun. ROFL First, it was my son and Second, it was just a real tight run between the two of us. I could have walked away with the push of the button that makes the boost jump to 34, but what fun would that have been. Nice comparison between 2 Holsets also. The combined "hum" of two of my 4g63s was a beautiful sound too!
The kid that did the videoing has a Red Evo with an FP Black. We will tangle soon..... :cool:I kinda feel like I should keep it "close" :hmm:. Video coming when that moment happens for sure. :thumb:
 
I ended up running the new 2awg along the firewall, along the driver side fender to the alternator.View attachment 740209At idle I see 14.4 which slowly drops to 14.1 by the time the water temp reaches 186, wot is still 13.0, so clearly the increased voltage is no match for the heat, I’m sure this fall when it cools down it’ll be noticeable :idontknow: View attachment 740210Here she is buttoned up in the trunk, that 40amp fuse zip tied to the plastic will get mounted mounted to the trunk like others, I’ll also eventually change fittings on the fuel pump hanger so I can put my factory hanger bulk head cover back on, and yes, I took a box cutter to the 34 year old $hit ass plastic that would’ve split around the hatch struts I replaced LOL go ahead and say something about it LOL
The alternator isn’t your problem. It is your 17 miles of factory wiring. When I have rewired stock cars, by dropping 40-60lbs of the stock BS, I have picked up as many as two full volts.

Less wires, less draw. Pretty simple. I also wire the alternators as a one wire setup. That helps immensely. You have to excite the alternator every time you start the car but, what is one quick rev to 3000rpm?
 
Thanks Steven, I thought about that too, I’m sure the trunk location of the battery isn’t ideal in that regard, the last time I took the car out the voltage was 13.4-13.5 at wot, it was also not as hot outside, right around 80 degrees, AFR’s were perfect. However while we’re on the subject of wiring LOL, the last time the car idled my fuel pump fuses were HOT. That’s pretty concerning to me LOL, I’ve read that can be normal and read that they shouldn’t be too hot too touch, they’re both new 30/40amp relays, i might look into an upgrade there as well this winter.
 
Thanks Steven, I thought about that too, I’m sure the trunk location of the battery isn’t ideal in that regard, the last time I took the car out the voltage was 13.4-13.5 at wot, it was also not as hot outside, right around 80 degrees, AFR’s were perfect. However while we’re on the subject of wiring LOL, the last time the car idled my fuel pump fuses were HOT. That’s pretty concerning to me LOL, I’ve read that can be normal and read that they shouldn’t be too hot too touch, they’re both new 30/40amp relays, i might look into an upgrade there as well this winter.
You need bigger wiring. Do you have two pumps and two relays? I am a big fan of feeding small and big pumps directly from the alternator.
 
Yes I have 2 pumps and 2 relays, I remember you expressing your opinion on dual pump set ups at the dyno session LOL, my car will be down for a while with the auto swap, maybe I’ll go back to a big single pump, I’ll also check the harness connection at the relay today for corrosion or anything increasing resistance on that particular relay :thumb:
 
ALWAYS over compensate on wiring size, otherwise you'll see the drop you see. We use "0" gauge for remote battery relocations since the battery and alternator "should" see the exact same voltage, no drop. Now we don't do MANY relocations here, like Steven, and he has a point about getting good solid voltage AND GROUND to your pumps with suggesting to pull off of the alternator. When you have the battery CLOSE and GOOD wiring, you shouldn't see any difference between the two. Maybe that is what you already have, I'm not up on what you used Jeremy, but following along, OF COURSE! :cool:
Marty
 
I talked him into it.......;)
I'm 1 month into retirement and already want to get MY auto car going again. It's just hard on the old man's back and finding someone competent enuf to swap out my bad mainshaft but she really is fun (yet I'm driving my stick car, and fighting with her ATM).
 
Thanks to @91tsi_awd for some parts! I was able to grab a Tcase, intermediate shaft, shifter, shift cable and console :rocks:
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I’ll be busy this winter cleaning everything as best as I can, still in the process of pulling my 5 speed stuff.
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I plan to send the tcase to JACKS for a rebuild and re assembly with a Frontline Fab brace, the diff I hope to send to TMZ, hopefully Tim can swap out ring and pinion to the Auto flavor as the J1h 4 bolt auto diff is impossible to find, but assuming he can the swap the parts I’d rather do that anyways.
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The shifter needs some love but nothings cracked/broken, I’ll get’er cleaned up! I’m so excited for this swap LOL, I think part of the fun with these cars is wrenching on them LOL
 
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