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6266 Build or Bust

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Well guys no first start today, after a couple 5 second starter bumps and looking around/underneath the car I discovered 2 fuel leaks.
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The worst one was at the outlet end of my fuel filter, I remember that fitting feeling like it was beginning to strip when I re installed it after replacing the element, but you always hope for the best right LOL
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The other is coming from a possible pin hole leak or so from that same 8an feed line going to the rail, so as of now I’ve already ordered more 8an line to replace that section, and before I order a new filter for $h!ts and giggles I’m gonna put a wrench on that outlet fitting and see if it tightens up. On a positive note, the turbo should be primed, and the starter sounded great, no strange noises or anything, and I’m still off to a better start than I was in 2021 when I discovered I had 2 bent intake valves, and then after fixing that I had to pull the transmission/clutch to replace the leaky/stripped rear main housing LOL
 
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So here’s the fitting that was leaking, it now has a O ring which it didn’t before, I can’t remember if the other side had one or not, I’m not cracking it loose to check because it’s NOT leaking LOL, so as of now I don’t think I need a new filter, I was thinking the threads were stripped but they’re not, hopefully when my new 8an line shows up tomorrow if I can get everything re buttoned up quick I’ll try again. I’ll activate the pumps via ecmlink to check for leaks, if she’s good I’ve now got the plugs in ready to fire🔥
 
That doesn't look right. That type of fitting isn't supposed to have an o-ring there. I don't think there is a proper groove for it to keep it from blowing out, is there?
Anyway, the ORB fittings are the only ones that use an o-ring like that. Are you sure that filter isn't supposed to have an ORB fitting there?
 
I went and pulled out a new, inline, fuel filter and it doesn't use orb fittings. None of my cars have a oring on the filter except for the canister itself, on the end caps.

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That makes sense, I guess I need to replace the filter housing and the fittings?

Anyway, the ORB fittings are the only ones that use an o-ring like that. Are you sure that filter isn't supposed to have an ORB fitting there?
You may be right, the fittings I have I bought coupled together with the filter from stmtuned
 
That makes sense, I guess I need to replace the filter housing and the fittings?
Only if the housing is leaking. It is probably just the fitting on the end but IDK what filter STM had sold you.
 
UPDATE!!! Fuel leaks fixed! With orings LOL

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The filter housing has a chamfered end, I test fitted either side with an o ring hand threaded in all the way then backed it out, it wasn’t chewing up the o ring, anyways I replaced the bad section of line, put o rings on the filter fittings and Viola!
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Shes holding fuel pressure with pumps activated an NO leaks! Now for the fun part LOL, I have 3 start up log attempts I’ll load via the laptop later after I mow the lawn, she would fire right up, then die, not sure if it’s my cas to far out or what, but I also another leak to address, the an fittings at the T temp sensor are leaking so I need to fix that now, but it’s progress!
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If it works then 🤷 :hellyeah:
 
Jeremy, I noticed on the Vibrant page for Straight Hose End Fittings, Male AN Flare (which is what you have on the end of your hose) it says "Pair with an O-ring for an ORB seal". I think they mean like how you are using it. So I guess that is ok as long as it doesn't leak at 85-90 psi of fuel pressure.

The normal way though would be to put an ORB fitting with a male flare in each end of the Weldon. Then your hose end fittings would need to have the female flare.
That's how STM does it in the tank to rail kit which uses a Weldon filter.
They show ORB fittings as a related part at the bottom of their page for the Weldon filter.



Vibrand ORB fitting with Male AN Flare on the other end - STM .jpgstm-1g-2g-dsm-3000gt-e85-6an-fuel-tank-to-rail-kit with a Weldon fuel filter .jpg
 
Oil pressure looked fantastic, at first the wheels weren’t turning in gear until we got the trans fluid level right LOL, but I’m so happy right now, tomorrow I’ll set base timing, I’ve already drained the oil/filter and put in the vr1, looks like I might be taking my son to the car wash in the dsm this weekend:rocks:
 
Whoo Hooo :thumb::D
 
I am very proud of your accomplishments so now its time for the reward......driving to get ICE CREAM 🧊 :thumb: ROFL
 
Oil pressure looked fantastic, at first the wheels weren’t turning in gear until we got the trans fluid level right LOL, but I’m so happy right now, tomorrow I’ll set base timing, I’ve already drained the oil/filter and put in the vr1, looks like I might be taking my son to the car wash in the dsm this weekend:rocks:
Soooooo.....Did you get to drive? How was it?
 
So where I’m at with car is trying to get the shiftbox happy, the engine is solid, I’ve set base timing, changed the oil, it’s ready to rip, but I just discovered today my tacho/speedo readings are off in the forced four program. I tapped the signal wires off the ecu harness for those values instead of the back of the cluster like Marty suggested. So I need to fix that, the box won’t downshift, so it’s getting closer
 
It may have something to do with the speed reading Jeremy. The 1g cars VSS comes from the speedometer cluster. I had to change mine out after mine quit reading, but only at like 20mph. The cable snapped and told my car I was at a stoplight so it shifted down into 1st rather quickly. It was abrupt but like I said I was luckily just in town driving between stoplights. Glad it is starting to put a smile on your face, you've done it all man! ✌️
Here is my old speedometer. Its a "mantle piece" as far as a auto car goes. I think my replacement was out of a 5 speed but they all had VSS.

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Thanks Marty! I emailed forcedfour to see what they recommend, I’m wondering if my T tap connections weren’t sufficient enough for the signal? AI suggestions point towards the PPR adjustment for rpm and PPM adjustment for vehicle speed, however my current settings are the same as yours :idontknow: …we’ll get there LOL
 
Have you changed the PPR just as a test? I would, you can always change it back. Have you calibrated your TPS in the software also?
We'll get there! 👍
 
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