6266 Build or Bust

[We're on Boost]

Sorry our you referring to the MC?

No I'm talking about the push rod that comes with the slave and it pushes on the end of the fork.

 

[1cleangsx]

Gotcha , yes I am running the rod that came with it

 

[We're on Boost]

Gotcha , yes I am running the rod that came with it

Ok good!

along with enlarging the 2 bolt holes a little bit.

These holes in the slave ears were probably threaded with 8mm thread weren't they?
I don't understand why you needed to drill them out.
I can see that you had to mount this slave to the other side (passenger side) of the ears on the bellhousing, which is slightly shocking. But even with that I don't see why the holes in the slave ears needed to be drilled out. What was the reason?

 

[1cleangsx]

So the holes actually weren’t threaded, I didn’t take a picture to prove it , but once the slave was flushed up the holes on the slave to the trans didn’t line up perfectly, I could line up one ear and slide in one bolt but not the other, I found it was easiest to just bore out the 2 holes slightly with a step drill bit

 

[We're on Boost]

So the holes actually weren’t threaded, I didn’t take a picture to prove it , but once the slave was flushed up the holes on the slave to the trans didn’t line up perfectly, I could line up one ear and slide in one bolt but not the other, I found it was easiest to just bore out the 2 holes slightly with a step drill bit

Ahh I see. Ok thanks.

 

[pauleyman]

So the holes actually weren’t threaded, I didn’t take a picture to prove it , but once the slave was flushed up the holes on the slave to the trans didn’t line up perfectly, I could line up one ear and slide in one bolt but not the other, I found it was easiest to just bore out the 2 holes slightly with a step drill bit

So is this mod not actually a bolt on then? I know DSM slaves are available in 3/4 and 13/16. I'm assuming the mod is the 11/16 to get a little more throw.

 

[1cleangsx]

You’re correct. This mod in my opinion is still bolt on, as you literally use 2 bolts/nuts to get her in there , you just have to do a little bit of grinding to get it to sit flush on the trans

If you zoom in on this photo you can see there’s a tiny little step on the ear of the slave that needs to be ground flush to seat flush on the trans

 

[1cleangsx]

GOD BLESS THE USA

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It looks like a place of worship Jeremy!
Beautiful.

 

[1cleangsx]

Thanks Marty! It’s definitely my happy place

 

[SixBolt_16G]

That is one cozy ass garage, dude

 

[1cleangsx]

Thank you

 

[Anfurnyy]

That is one cozy ass garage, dude

Right?! I've got a 2 car and I'd take his for sure.

 

[jamel16]

View attachment 737533GOD BLESS THE USA

I’m loving it

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey guys I guess I’ll update my slow ass car again , in the last month or so I was working on upgrading to a 2awg wire for the alternator to try and keep the voltage up during wot pulls. So I figured I’d go ahead and drill a hole in the ole fire wall right next to where the main power came in, should work right?

I only f’d up about 8 wires total in the harness , like I’ve said before this car deserves better , anyways this ended my wrenching for the day as I contemplated selling the car and finding a new hobby. I knew to fix this I’d have to put my hands on parts of the I never intended on touching , the ac evaporator and blower motor were doin just fine up there until I grabbed the drill

pulling them out wasn’t too bad, I had screws, bolts, clips all over the passenger seat thinking I’m never gonna remember where all this goes , but anyways I knew they had to come out for me to fix the harness, went ahead and pulled out the ac core as the AC in the engine has been gone for years, this allowed me to finally use my 3d printed AC delete plug from dsm3dcreations I bought a while back

In this pic the harness is fixed, I used those solder sleeves off Amazon to fix, I simply stripped,twisted,heated these bad boys on each wire that was either screwed or nicked, everything works on the car so I’m happy .

 

[1cleangsx]

I ended up running the new 2awg along the firewall, along the driver side fender to the alternator.

At idle I see 14.4 which slowly drops to 14.1 by the time the water temp reaches 186, wot is still 13.0, so clearly the increased voltage is no match for the heat, I’m sure this fall when it cools down it’ll be noticeable

Here she is buttoned up in the trunk, that 40amp fuse zip tied to the plastic will get mounted mounted to the trunk like others, I’ll also eventually change fittings on the fuel pump hanger so I can put my factory hanger bulk head cover back on, and yes, I took a box cutter to the 34 year old $hit ass plastic that would’ve split around the hatch struts I replaced go ahead and say something about it

 

[Vegas Smith]

I suggest adding some rubber or plastic grommets in the firewall hole where cables enter. You can find them cheap on Amazon.

 

[1cleangsx]

They’re in there now

 

[MindBlowin03]

Sounds like it's time for a Saturn alternator?

I too have done what I can to help a 90 amp OEM Mitsu give me more voltage at WOT and it just wouldn't happen. Couldn't get any more than 13.0v or so. Switched to a Saturn unit and never goes below 13.9 at any time. 14.1-14.5 most of the time.

 

[1cleangsx]

Wow, only issue with the 200amp Saturn is I believe I’d have to run 0/1awg wire? @ist dwa posted up a link awhile back about a factory looking 160amp I might try, but again, in cooler weather even on the stock harness my voltage was 13.3-13.4, and even at 13.0 AFR’s are still in the target range, so I assume fuel pressure isn’t dropping, idc’s are like 66% so everything seems like it’s fine

 

[We're on Boost]

Wow, only issue with the 200amp Saturn is I believe I’d have to run 0/1awg wire? @ist dwa posted up a link awhile back about a factory looking 160amp I might try, but again, in cooler weather even on the stock harness my voltage was 13.3-13.4, and even at 13.0 AFR’s are still in the target range, so I assume fuel pressure isn’t dropping, idc’s are like 66% so everything seems like it’s fine

I don't think the alternator is ever going to have much more than 100 amps coming out of it ever, even with a "200 amp" rated alternator. And most of the time it'll have less than 100 amps coming out of it.
It's the wire from the battery to the starter that needs to be pretty big, and that is always true when your battery is in the trunk, even if you have a puny alternator.
I would think that the #2 gauge you have on the alternator now would be ok for a bigger alternator.

BTW here's how the electrical wire gauges go and how they are named. The 0/1, maybe you mean 1/0 (which means single 0).
It gets pretty confusing if you don't have the whole chart right out in front of you so you can see how it goes. So here's the whole chart, down to 16 gauge:

and here's a handy note for one of the more confusing units (resistance column heading): The numbers in that column are ohms per 1000 feet.

So 15 feet of 2-gauge wire has .1563 x 15/1000 = .00234 ohms of resistance.
V=IR
V= 100 x .00234 = 0.234 volts (voltage lost in 15 feet of 2-gauge wire when it is flowing 100 amps).

So that gives you an idea of how to figure it out.

It's kind of interesting that for every 3 gauge numbers you go on the chart, the cross-sectional area of copper doubles.
For example, two 4-gauge wires in parallel have the same cross-sectional area as one 1-gauge wire.
And that is what determines the resistance per foot. Any voltage drop that is the fault of the wire is caused by this resistance.

 

[MindBlowin03]

I went with the 160 amp version and 0 gauge from a trunk mounted battery. In 90 degree weather with fans on is when I seen my 13.9v. Most of the time it's 14.1v.

 

[1cleangsx]

I went with the 160 amp version and 0 gauge from a trunk mounted battery. In 90 degree weather with fans on is when I seen my 13.9v. Most of the time it's 14.1v.

Hey man you rebuild s90’s right? I’m curious if you replace the shaft seals and cure the annoying “whistle” they have. My 70mm doesn’t leak at all externally, I shoot 50psi of tool pressure thru it on a blt with zero bubbles, but from what I understand it’s something internal that makes them whistle at idle, pretty annoying but other than that I think it’s a beautiful piece and I’m happy with mine

 

[MindBlowin03]

Hey man you rebuild s90’s right? I’m curious if you replace the shaft seals and cure the annoying “whistle” they have. My 70mm doesn’t leak at all externally, I shoot 50psi of tool pressure thru it on a blt with zero bubbles, but from what I understand it’s something internal that makes them whistle at idle, pretty annoying but other than that I think it’s a beautiful piece and I’m happy with mine

I do rebuild them. I've done well over 100 now and have had exactly 3 people say they still whistled after I rebuilt them. One of them came from my personal car and it didn't whistle but he said it did when he got it, so I have no idea. I test them to 40 psi without issues so I don't know why those 3 still whistled. Probably 60 or more have said the rebuild fixed the whistle completely. My goal is to make them seal up and hold boost without any issues.

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey guys figured I’d update a couple new additions, I finally picked up a 91-94 throttle body to snag the isc/fiav off of it.

I tested the pins on the isc per service manual and they were in the 32.7-33ohm range which is good, I had to drill out 3 of the 5 fasteners to separate the isc/fiav from the throttle which wasn’t too bad with a easy out.

Today I finally got her bolted up to the s90 with new gaskets.

With this intake it sits right on top of the shift cables, not sure if that would be an issue or not.

Upon first start up I left off the throttle after a few seconds and it idled on its own like a champ! Also i soon noticed that loud ass whistle from the s90 was gone . I watched the logged value of the isc position slowly fall from 120 all the way to 0 where it stayed, so I’ll still have some adjustments to make, however the car idled great the whole time!