Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[RubyEclipse]

You've already got it apart. If you havent been degreasing get started.
The block surface should be prepped also. No abrasive, no grinders etc. Careful use of razor blades is fine. Carbide scrapers, better in my opinion but both of those should be used carefully. Go slow. Watch videos if you need to.

I’ve prepped the surface using fine razor exactly How many people on forums and videos have stated. I need to degrease the rest of the engine some more tho, a lot of it is just caked on and pretty stuck on, how should I get thicker stuff off?

 

[pauleyman]

I’ve prepped the surface using fine razor exactly How many people on forums and videos have stated. I need to degrease the rest of the engine some more tho, a lot of it is just caked on and pretty stuck on, how should I get thicker stuff off?

Elbow grease, time, full strength simple green. Plenty of brushes and rags. That's what I prefer.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Elbow grease, time, full strength simple green. Plenty of brushes and rags. That's what I prefer.

Perfect, I will get on that tomorrow! Thank you!!

 

[pauleyman]

Perfect, I will get on that tomorrow! Thank you!!

I do tend to remove what I can. Brackets, housings, pipes etc. Keep track and/or tag and bag hardware. 3$ box of ziplock bags and a sharpie goes a long way.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I do tend to remove what I can. Brackets, housings, pipes etc. Keep track and/or tag and bag hardware. 3$ box of ziplock bags and a sharpie goes a long way.

Ok I will definitely do that, I’ve been bad at that so I definitely need to get a better idea of sorting and organizing parts and places.

 

[pauleyman]

Easy to do. Take off thermostat housing....put it all on a bag bolts and all. Remove waterpipe. Same. I tend to leave bolts in the brackets or block when I can. Whatever works for you. Clean up everything then show us. Not a requirement but you might consider getting new cylinder head locator dowels and remove old ones from the block. Then you have one big flat surface. You will need to clean out the head bolt holes. People may disagree but I use a bottoming tap. If I encounter any major resistance I stop. Trying to clean threads, not cut new ones. Once done some brakeclean and compressed air. Holes need to be clean and liquid free.

 

[curt-s]

Ok I will definitely do that, I’ve been bad at that so I definitely need to get a better idea of sorting and organizing parts and places.

Also can use a piece of cardboard and punch the bolts into it in the same general position as they are on the block. Indicate orientation or number them. Saves a lot of time/frustration if the bolts are different lengths.
I use that method all the time for the timing covers, water pump, etc etc.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Cardboard method is what I prefer. Smaller holes in the cardboard than what the bolt actually is keeps them from falling out accidentally. Easy to diagram - but do whatever makes the most sense to you. Here’s one from a while ago.

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[pauleyman]

Cardboard method is what I prefer. Smaller holes in the cardboard than what the bolt actually is keeps them from falling out accidentally. Easy to diagram - but do whatever makes the most sense to you. Here’s one from a while ago.

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Yup. This works great. Especially for all the stuff with different lengths.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Cardboard method is what I prefer. Smaller holes in the cardboard than what the bolt actually is keeps them from falling out accidentally. Easy to diagram - but do whatever makes the most sense to you. Here’s one from a while ago.

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Oh yeah that’s definitely a great idea, I will definitely do this. Why’d you do the oil pan? On there? I don’t need to do any of that right?

 

[19Eclipse90]

I was doing a complete tear down some 15 years ago and it helped keep track of everything. Two of the oil pan bolts were shorter than the others and this method ensured they went back where they came from.

I haven’t been following along as closely as others have been so I have no idea whether you need to worry about the oil pan or not. I would assume you might, as an “engine rebuild” generally has the pistons and rods out, at least. But, again, I’m not following along that closely. The picture is a reference for illustrating “the cardboard method”. Use what method you want to use whenever you want to use it.

 

[pauleyman]

Unless you pull pistons or something no you don't have to pull the pan.
Brian it's been discussed the OP is doing a top end build with a fresh(ish) turbo

 

[curt-s]

Oh yeah that’s definitely a great idea, I will definitely do this. Why’d you do the oil pan? On there? I don’t need to do any of that right?

Theres only a couple bolts you need to track on the oil pan more closely, and those are the ones directly under the timing belt that go through the front case. Those are shorter than the others, do not mix them up. Also, if you use too long of a bolt in one of the bosses on the front case you could blow the top right off it.. I've sent that a time or two.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Theres only a couple bolts you need to track on the oil pan more closely, and those are the ones directly under the timing belt that go through the front case. Those are shorter than the others, do not mix them up. Also, if you use too long of a bolt in one of the bosses on the front case you could blow the top right off it.. I've sent that a time or two.

Oh sheesh, ok I’ll definitely make sure to remember where I put those. Thank you for the cardboard idea, it’s genius fr. I’m definitely going to be using that when I time the car, how tight am I looking to make this car with timing?

 

[curt-s]

There's guides for both engines, 1G and 2G.

DSM Maintenance Guide

You have a factory turbocharged DSM so, of course, you want to go fast. Before you do there are several maintenance checks you will want to run through. These cars have an unfair reputation of being unreliable in other circles - much of that reputation is due to new owners throwing on a boost...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[CKOPOCT]

Oh sheesh, ok I’ll definitely make sure to remember where I put those. Thank you for the cardboard idea, it’s genius fr. I’m definitely going to be using that when I time the car, how tight am I looking to make this car with timing?

Not sure what you mean by "how tight." When you install the timing belts (cams and balance shafts) everything has to line up perfectly. Following the procedures to the letter will ensure the job is done right. There's no slack or altering the timing like on, say, an old Chevy V-8... where you rotate the distributor to adjust the base timing.

A hugely important part of the procedure is to spin the engine over by hand several times after you install the belts to ensure all of your timing marks still line up perfectly. That, and when you pull the grenade pin on the tensioner to apply the proper tension on the belt.

 

[steve]

There are many threads here on changing the timing belt and the process isn't difficult but it is involved. The more references you have the easier it is to not make a big mistake. Here is one of the older references derived from the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and the later Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

It's really important to keep any slack on the belt out until you reach the auto tensioner at the end, that's where all slack is taken up by the adjustment process. As you go from sprocket to sprocket make sure all the timing marks line up and there isn't any play in the belt.

The auto tensioner doesn't actually tension the belt. You do that (preload) by adjusting (rotating) the tensioner pulley against the belt, the auto tensioner maintains that under the varying loads from the running engine and any wear.

You don't pull the grenade pin on the auto tensioner until the very end when your sure everything is adjusted correctly.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The old school hack is to leave the pin installed, set your tensioner pulley position, then rotate the engine by hand a few times - then check the pin. if the pin slips out of the tensioner easy - your done. If the pin drags or is stuck, then the belt tension is either to tight or to loose.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Ok, got it. I will definitely make sure to read a ton and watch videos. Thank you guys!!

 

[pauleyman]

When you're ready to start assembling we can discuss any "gotcha" type items before any part is put on. Same for parts arriving. Protect the head mating surface. Do not install cams until you're ready. There are some gotchas there also. While head is off its perfect time to remove the motor mount bracket, clean stuff up. Not required but this is the best time with nothing in the way.

 

[RubyEclipse]

When you're ready to start assembling we can discuss any "gotcha" type items before any part is put on. Same for parts arriving. Protect the head mating surface. Do not install cams until you're ready. There are some gotchas there also. While head is off its perfect time to remove the motor mount bracket, clean stuff up. Not required but this is the best time with nothing in the way.

Ok, what should I do with the motor brackets? Do I take them off and clean them or replace them? And should I also support the engine when I do this to even take them out?

 

[pauleyman]

Ok, what should I do with the motor brackets? Do I take them off and clean them or replace them? And should I also support the engine when I do this to even take them out?

You already have the motor mount off. Now you can remove the bracket and clean it. Like I said not required but cleaning up the timing side of the motor is so much easier when nothing is in the way.
If it wasn't clear when I say "front" I meant timing side.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You already have the motor mount off. Now you can remove the bracket and clean it. Like I said not required but cleaning up the timing side of the motor is so much easier when nothing is in the way.
If it wasn't clear when I say "front" I meant timing side.

Ok got it, front makes sense. But I don’t have the motor mount off, should I take it off, seems like you’re saying I should clean it. So it should be impossible to take off and clean.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok got it, front makes sense. But I don’t have the motor mount off, should I take it off, seems like you’re saying I should clean it. So it should be impossible to take off and clean.

Technically it's the motor mount bracket. Point is you already have stuff off. No better time to unbolt various bracketry, clean it up etc. How did you get the center cover off anyway? Requires removing the two studs.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Technically it's the motor mount bracket. Point is you already have stuff off. No better time to unbolt various bracketry, clean it up etc. How did you get the center cover off anyway? Requires removing the two studs.

Ok perfect, I’ll do it then if it’s just right there, why not.