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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Ok I got some, installed my water pump. Put the new ring on and all the bolts. I made sure everything was super clean and shiny. The water pump isn’t something I need in time right? So now that I have those on, is it time for the head?
You got all the gasket off for the pump? No it isn't timed.
Yes it about time for the head.
There are some prep things beforehand. Show us pics of everything. Block surface. Head etc.
There are definitely things that you need to know and we need to direct before you proceed.
 
You got all the gasket off for the pump? No it isn't timed.
Yes it about time for the head.
There are some prep things beforehand. Show us pics of everything. Block surface. Head etc.
There are definitely things that you need to know and we need to direct before you proceed.
Ok perfect I will do that as soon as I’m home, yes I got allll of the old gasket off. Took absolutely FOREVER. 😂 I will send photos as soon as I am home though.

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Here are photos

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Hope the others chime in.
Don't lay the head down on any hard surfaces valves down. At least while cams are in it. Put it on a towel, blanket etc.
The lifters must be bled down. Do you know if they were? Did you put the cams in?
Take the water pump pulleys off. Can't put it together with them on.
Give us a full parts list of what you bought.
The block is not clean. What did you use? Talk to us about it.
You will need to remove the burrs on the pistons where the valves hit. Do you have any tools to so that?
You need to clean and blowout the head bolt holes.

From this point forward you should probably consult before doing anything.

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the block should look like this
 

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I absolutely agree with @pauleyman
Clean clean and clean. Then clean again. That deck has to be better or you're risking another Headgasket failure. I am sure he also deburred the pistons and cleaned them also. Then clean clean and clean those cylinders again.
Do you have a drill and a wire wheel?. It would help as long as your not super aggressive with it. Clean those surfaces please!
AND advise how you are going to proceed so we can be of help.
 
I absolutely agree with @pauleyman
Clean clean and clean. Then clean again. That deck has to be better or you're risking another Headgasket failure. I am sure he also deburred the pistons and cleaned them also. Then clean clean and clean those cylinders again.
Do you have a drill and a wire wheel?. It would help as long as your not super aggressive with it. Clean those surfaces please!
AND advise how you are going to proceed so we can be of help.
Wire wheel? Elaborate please. Sounds dangerous in the hands of the inexperienced
 
Well I sure can't dispute that. :idontknow:
Only on the deck surface Paul.
 
Hope the others chime in.
Don't lay the head down on any hard surfaces valves down. At least while cams are in it. Put it on a towel, blanket etc.
The lifters must be bled down. Do you know if they were? Did you put the cams in?
Take the water pump pulleys off. Can't put it together with them on.
Give us a full parts list of what you bought.
The block is not clean. What did you use? Talk to us about it.
You will need to remove the burrs on the pistons where the valves hit. Do you have any tools to so that?
You need to clean and blowout the head bolt holes.
From this point forward you should probably consult before doing anything.
I knew not to lay down the head, that’s why I left it in my car on the carpet, forgot about the cams sorry. The lifts with most likely not bled and no I didn’t put the cams in. Why can’t I keep the pulleys on if I may ask? And what kind of parts list do you want? The block I used degreaser, super fine steel wool, ATF, and carb cleaner. I have a dremel with a super small wire wheel but am afraid to mess anything up… I will clean and blow out the holes tonight or tomorrow before I do anything with the head.

I absolutely agree with @pauleyman
Clean clean and clean. Then clean again. That deck has to be better or you're risking another Headgasket failure. I am sure he also deburred the pistons and cleaned them also. Then clean clean and clean those cylinders again.
Do you have a drill and a wire wheel?. It would help as long as your not super aggressive with it. Clean those surfaces please!
AND advise how you are going to proceed so we can be of help.
I do have a drill and wire wheels, although it is not very fine. I’d rather use steel wool if that’s ok, and even my dremel with its tiny wire wheel. But I will continue to clean this head further and make it look better!! And definitely will ask what to do next rather than trying my own way.
 
I do have a drill and wire wheels, although it is not very fine. I’d rather use steel wool if that’s ok, and even my dremel with its tiny wire wheel. But I will continue to clean this head further and make it look better!! And definitely will ask what to do next rather than trying my own way.
I meant what parts did you buy. Are you using a new tensioner? Do yiunhave new lifters or are those the old ones?

Here is what fel pro has to say.


I really like carbide scrapers.its what I used in those pics. Whatever you use you have to careful not to damage or gouge the surface.
 
I meant what parts did you buy. Are you using a new tensioner? Do yiunhave new lifters or are those the old ones?
Old lifters, new tensioners. I have new belts and water pump. That’s about it….

Here is what fel pro has to say.


I really like carbide scrapers.its what I used in those pics. Whatever you use you have to careful not to damage or gouge the surface.
I will definitely look into getting a new scraper, mine absolutely sucks. And yes, I will be very very careful.
 
You don't have to follow me but I used lisle scrapers. I've done several with just razor blades. It just took longer.
Do you have a shop vac?
When youre cleaning block off holes with paper towels or rags. Vacuum as you go. The pistons won't take much, few seconds with a Dremel. You do not have to remove the divot. Just lose any sharp edges that could get hot. Make sense?
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You don't have to follow me but I used lisle scrapers. I've done several with just razor blades. It just took longer.
Do you have a shop vac?
When youre cleaning block off holes with paper towels or rags. Vacuum as you go. The pistons won't take much, few seconds with a Dremel. You do not have to remove the divot. Just lose any sharp edges that could get hot. Make sense?
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Yes I have a shop vac, I plan on vacuuming and cleaning it tomorrow.
 
Would I be able to buy this in a week o2 and put it on after the belt? Or is this only right now?
You will have to re-open all the timing covers and un-do the timing belt to replace the tensioner. If you can do something else while you wait for the part - now is the time to put all new timing components and a water pump.

-Justin
 
You will have to re-open all the timing covers and un-do the timing belt to replace the tensioner. If you can do something else while you wait for the part - now is the time to put all new timing components and a water pump.

-Justin
So all of my timing covers are actually broken except for the top one. I will have to buy the bottom and top ones. I can still put on the rest of the belts and time the head, if that’s ok.
 
So all of my timing covers are actually broken except for the top one. I will have to buy the bottom and top ones. I can still put on the rest of the belts and time the head, if that’s ok.
If you want to redo it. 2 choices. Use the hydraulic tensioner you have or wait for a new one.

I could find a direct video but here is a link how the carbide scrapers work. I did it and it's exactly like this.
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I could find a direct video but here is a link how the carbide scrapers work. I did it and it's exactly like this.
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Ok I will definitely pick up one of those, how’s the block looking?

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Ok, do i just keep taking away and scrubbing the surface? I don’t want to take too much off the top. Is there anything in particular you want me to clean off?
It should look like the pic i posted. You aren't removing metal. It's old gasket.
 
Oh, don't worry, once you think you've cleaned the surface where it's not coming off on a scraper anymore.. you'll take brake cleaner to it and find it's still coming off on the towel. And then you'll go through a roll of shop towels and cleaner just to get it as spotless as compulsion dictates.

Also before you drop the next head on, before you even clean the block surface pristine to lay down the next gasket, get all the oil out of the threads for the head bolts/studs. Oil collects in there and when you screw in the next fastener, especially with studs, it will compress the oil, shoot it up through the threads, and then you'll get oil between the gasket and the deck surface.

So clean those holes thoroughly, then proceed to clean the deck surface with cleaner.
 
Oh, don't worry, once you think you've cleaned the surface where it's not coming off on a scraper anymore.. you'll take brake cleaner to it and find it's still coming off on the towel. And then you'll go through a roll of shop towels and cleaner just to get it as spotless as compulsion dictates.

Also before you drop the next head on, before you even clean the block surface pristine to lay down the next gasket, get all the oil out of the threads for the head bolts/studs. Oil collects in there and when you screw in the next fastener, especially with studs, it will compress the oil, shoot it up through the threads, and then you'll get oil between the gasket and the deck surface.

So clean those holes thoroughly, then proceed to clean the deck surface with cleaner.
Yep, that’s exactly what I did tonight. It’s been 30 minutes and I’m still getting stuff shooting out of the holes 😂. But that’s exactly what I’m doing, How do I put the studs on to make sure they’re tight enough but won’t crack the head? I have the stud bolts with the nut and washers.

Ok I think this is the best it’s going to look, it looks absolutely amazing and so shiny rn.

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I think I’m ready to put the head on, unless you guys think otherwise. Also, do I put the new head studs in first? Or after I put the head on?
 

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What did you use to clean that? Looks like perhaps a power tool?
My worry is what may have been deposited down the oil returns if so

I've always done studs first but it does make it annoying with the washers around some of the valve springs, especially aftermarket. Studs go in dry so if you washer up first and then feed it down with an Allen, that should work.. but I've not done it that way so maybe somebody else can chime in.
 
What did you use to clean that? Looks like perhaps a power tool?
My worry is what may have been deposited down the oil returns if so

I've always done studs first but it does make it annoying with the washers around some of the valve springs, especially aftermarket. Studs go in dry so if you washer up first and then feed it down with an Allen, that should work.. but I've not done it that way so maybe somebody else can chime in.
I used a softer bit with a dremel. If bits did get down there, how should I get them out so they don’t circulate through the oil? I didn’t see anything really fly so if they did it was microscopic.

I made sure to go very slowly, and lightly. This took me a very long time to do.
 
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