Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[RubyEclipse]

There is so much grim, grease and oil everywhere. This whole engine needs to be sprayed down and scrubbed. But, I’m pulling off the covers, the rag broke all of them so I will be replacing them. But I’m getting everything off and ready for my parts which come in Monday. I took the motor mount off, how should I clean it? Just degreaser and brake cleaner? I just really need to clean the motor so I can see the marks I can’t see any of them right now.

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[pauleyman]

There is so much grim, grease and oil everywhere. This whole engine needs to be sprayed down and scrubbed. But, I’m pulling off the covers, the rag broke all of them so I will be replacing them. But I’m getting everything off and ready for my parts which come in Monday. I took the motor mount off, how should I clean it? Just degreaser and brake cleaner? I just really need to clean the motor so I can see the marks I can’t see any of them right now.

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Take all of that stuff off. Anything that unbolts needs to come off.
And yes, elbow grease, cleaner etc etc. Nothing special to get all that clean. Just time. If you go through a whole pack of rags so what. Scrape off big thick stuff with a plastic scraper.
Do you have air tools available? That crank bolt is tough by hand.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Take all of that stuff off. Anything that unbolts needs to come off.
And yes, elbow grease, cleaner etc etc. Nothing special to get all that clean. Just time. If you go through a whole pack of rags so what. Scrape off big thick stuff with a plastic scraper.
Do you have air tools available? That crank bolt is tough by hand.

Yes I do, my main problem is the stupid water pump pulley. I can’t get this thing out for the life of me. It is driving me insane.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Yes I do, my main problem is the stupid water pump pulley. I can’t get this thing out for the life of me. It is driving me insane.

jack under the engine with a wood block, remove motor mount

 

[pauleyman]

Yes I do, my main problem is the stupid water pump pulley. I can’t get this thing out for the life of me. It is driving me insane.

Take your old belt. Wrap it around it and use it to hold it.

jack under the engine with a wood block, remove motor mount

This is a good idea also. If you need clearance just jack the motor up.
Did you buy a seal kit? No better time to replace the front case seals than now. They're all accessible.

 

[RubyEclipse]

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Take your old belt. Wrap it around it and use it to hold it.

i got it off, and the water pump. I don’t know how to take off the time timing belt inside, but I did get the car to TDC. I found the marking.

This is a good idea also. If you need clearance just jack the motor up.
Did you buy a seal kit? No better time to replace the front case seals than now. They're all accessible.

Front gasket seals?

 

[pauleyman]

You also need to inspect that crank sensor and trigger plate for damage.
Be mindful of that trigger plate. It has a front and back. It will likely be obvious even if you clean it up well.

Front gasket seals?

Yes. Behind the sprockets. They are probably hard as rocks. The top end gasket kit should come with cam seals. Ever install a seal?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Yes. Behind the sprockets. They are probably hard as rocks. The top end gasket kit should come with cam seals. Ever install a seal?

I have installed seals, and I did put cam seals on my old head. Which sprockets are we exactly talking about though, forgive me. I see so many different ones in the timing.

 

[pauleyman]

I have installed seals, and I did put cam seals on my old head. Which sprockets are we exactly talking about though, forgive me. I see so many different ones in the timing.

There are only 3. Crank ( technically 2 on one shaft). Rear balance/oil pump. Front balance.

you can use air tools on the crank. Do NOT use air tools on the oil pump. Front i do by hand also.

 

[RubyEclipse]

There are only 3. Crank ( technically 2 on one shaft). Rear balance/oil pump. Front balance.

you can use air tools on the crank. Do NOT use air tools on the oil pump. Front i do by hand also.

So I think the one I have a problem with is the oil pump sprocket. There is still lots of a rag lodged in there and I want to remove it. But the stupid thing will not stop spinning, I’ve tried using the old belt to stop it but it just keeps moving. Any idea how I can get this sprocket off? Thank you guys!

 

[Justin DuBois]

So I think the one I have a problem with is the oil pump sprocket. There is still lots of a rag lodged in there and I want to remove it. But the stupid thing will not stop spinning, I’ve tried using the old belt to stop it but it just keeps moving. Any idea how I can get this sprocket off? Thank you guys!

I've only ever removed the oil pump sprocket after the front case is off the block. I usually have the nut on that tack-welded in place.

 

[steve]

Assuming that the lower/rear/intake side balance shaft hasn't been removed you could try using the port were you check the BS phasing. Remove the bolt, insert a screwdriver and rotate the oil pump sprocket until the BS hits the screwdriver. Then a quick blast with an impact driver should spin the bolt off. The FSM shows doing this.

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Holding the sprocket with an old timing belt might work too.

The only time I took the sprocket off was with the oil pan removed to remove the balance shaft and after that I pulled the front case to install a stub shaft and change all the seals.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Assuming that the lower/rear/intake side balance shaft hasn't been removed you could try using the port were you check the BS phasing. Remove the bolt, insert a screwdriver and rotate the oil pump sprocket until the BS hits the screwdriver. Then a quick blast with an impact driver should spin the bolt off. The FSM shows doing this.

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Holding the sprocket with an old timing belt might work too.

The only time I took the sprocket off was with the oil pan removed to remove the balance shaft and after that I pulled the front case to install a stub shaft and change all the seals.

Alright I got it off, thank you very much for the pictures. We got the new tiny belt on, the tensioner for the belt and I have it tightened down. Area is pretty dang clean, gonna put the new WP on right now, just gotta figure out if to get this old gasket off without scratching the motor. I am almost positive I have everything lined up great too. Here are pictures just to double check that I’m doing this right so far.

Please let me know if I need to fix or change anything. It all seems to be good.

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[pauleyman]

Take off everything that unbolts and clean the front case. Clean off the old waterpump gasket. Make sure you get it ALL.

Just noticed you said you put balance shaft belt back on. Are you not changing seals? You don't have to but it's a good idea.
What about hydraulic tensioner? Are tiu reusing the old one? Either way that has to come back off. Either a new one goes on or take that one off, compress it and put a pin in it.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Take off everything that unbolts and clean the front case. Clean off the old waterpump gasket. Make sure you get it ALL.

I’d this a crack in my block? Should I be worried??

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[pauleyman]

1. Where?
2. I thought you were gonna clean all that up?

 

[RubyEclipse]

1. Where?
2. I thought you were gonna clean all that up?

I am currently still cleaning it all up, and it’s on the right side right above the sensor and oil pump sprocket.

 

[pauleyman]

1. Thats not the block it's the oil pump
2. No it's not a crack. Thats called casting flash
You will see it all over cast aluminum parts

 

[RubyEclipse]

1. Thats not the block it's the oil pump
2. No it's not a crack. Thats called casting flash
You will see it all over cast aluminum parts

Oh sorry, ok got it. If it’s not a crack that’s bad then I’m happy. thank you very much I was a little worried.

 

[pauleyman]

Oh sorry, ok got it. If it’s not a crack that’s bad then I’m happy. thank you very much I was a little worried.

Hold up. Are you talking about that gap above that bolt? You weren't real specific. If its that gap look closer.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Mark your timing plate with a magic marker that says "out' so you don't accidentally put it on backwards. Just a tip. The balance shaft pulley looks clean but still, I'd replace it and the belt with quality ones. Scrape that gasket material with a razor blade, the block is iron, you won't hurt it. Use a bit of silicone on both sides of the new water pump gasket and when you reinstall the pump. The water tube (the long tube that slips into the water pump) uses antifreeze as a lube on its o-ring when you get to that point.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Mark your timing plate with a magic marker that says "out' so you don't accidentally put it on backwards. Just a tip. The balance shaft pulley looks clean but still, I'd replace it and the belt with quality ones. Scrape that gasket material with a razor blade, the block is iron, you won't hurt it. Use a bit of silicone on both sides of the new water pump gasket and when you reinstall the pump. The water tube (the long tube that slips into the water pump) uses antifreeze as a lube on its o-ring when you get to that point.

Ok awesome. When you say silicone, what type do I get?

I have gasket sealer for the thermostat housing. Would that work?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I use Permatex Ultimate Grey RTV silicone. Any sealer would be fine,.even none if the surfaces are nice and clean and flat. RTV is easy to remove if it were ever necessary. Your gasket sealer would take a bit more time to remove but hey, you shouldn't have to do it again with a quality pump. The factory doesn't use any sealer there, I only do mine for piece of mind and not having to dig back into he engine that deep if it possibly had any leak.

 

[pauleyman]

You going to need rtv sealer elsewhere. The thermostat housing and some of the valve cover will require it. I use permatex ultra grey also
Usually have a tube in the toolbox.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You going to need rtv sealer elsewhere. The thermostat housing and some of the valve cover will require it. I use permatex ultra grey also
Usually have a tube in the toolbox.

Ok I got some, installed my water pump. Put the new ring on and all the bolts. I made sure everything was super clean and shiny. The water pump isn’t something I need in time right? So now that I have those on, is it time for the head?