Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[pauleyman]

Awesome!! I’m glad to hear that, should I replace the belt while I’m at it? I feel like I should it’s got some wear on it, like a decent amount.

100%. Go all new just because. The only time I won't is if I was just in there for some reason and it's low mileage. In yiur case even if it was brand new I would replace. You sucked something foreign in there. Too much risk of damage. When in doubt, throw it out. Belt kit is cheap anyway...relatively.

Don't cheap out. At least buy the continental kit. (BTW it's what I bought). On my stock daily I no longer buy oem. Search around and people will tell you only buy oem for some stuff. I no longer agree. I will also say even with oem I long ago switched to 40k mile change. All new belts, pulleys, and hydraulic tensioner.

 

[Justin DuBois]

FYI - Avoid the "Gates" timing belt idler pulley. They puke their grease and die within 1000mi. General Gates belts and hoses are ok - but not for timing components.

 

[RamenPride]

Gents - thoughts on replacing the tensioner(s)?

Definitely replace the hydraulic timing belt tensioner. I know most people would say OEM only, but it's pretty pricey. I honestly don't know what brand tensioner I have, but it's not OEM and has worked just fine for years. Probably best to avoid anything in the "economy" range, and at least go with some well known name-brand.

 

[pauleyman]

FYI - Avoid the "Gates" timing belt idler pulley. They puke their grease and die within 1000mi. General Gates belts and hoses are ok - but not for timing components.

I'm out on that. Last gates kit i
put on broke at well under 60k on my lancer ralliart. I was pissed.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I was just gonna go with the rock auto, is that ok? I was gonna get their water pump and timing kit. Will that work alright?

 

[pauleyman]

Rockauto is fine. Just buy name brand stuff

 

[RubyEclipse]

Rockauto is fine. Just buy namel brand stuff

Ok sweet, I don’t know very much about name brands, is there a place I can look to see them all or just look through forums?

 

[pauleyman]

I'll just show you my cart.

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I ended up not using the hoses. Bought a complete hose kit elsewhere

I also had a front end kit I already had. Replaced front main, balance shaft seals.

 

[RamenPride]

This is the hydraulic tensioner I bought for my next timing belt change. Not as expensive as OEM, but not made in China where the quality might be questionable (in my opinion).

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[CKOPOCT]

@RubyEclipse - joining DSM Tuners was the best decision you could have made. Where else would you find folks willing to not just give advice, but encourage and even show you receipts and walk you through things that can be nerve racking.

Makes me smile to see the help coming your way. It's why I love this forum and group.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I ended up not using the hoses. Bought a complete hose kit elsewhere

@RubyEclipse - joining DSM Tuners was the best decision you could have made. Where else would you find folks willing to not just give advice, but encourage and even show you receipts and walk you through things that can be nerve racking.

Makes me smile to see the help coming your way. It's why I love this forum and group.

You think you’re smiling? I haven’t stopped in like the last 3 weeks!! I’ve been so excited and never been more motivated to work on this car! Only thing stopping me, like most people, is money I’ll get that soon enough tho and we’ll have her up and running in no time!

So what are we thinking my cars problem is leaning towards? I have oil in many different places, turbo, intake, IC, we have rapid power loss, I would floor it and it would cap out at 2500 rpms. Severe smoking, I mean it looked like I was hot boxing my car, and lastly oil in the exhaust too. Would love to know what you guys think I should do or what the issues might be next. Would love any help or what to do next! Thank you guys so much again!

was reading up on catch cans, I don’t even know how I would do this stuff and I really don’t understand the acronyms or what things stand for. Is this even something I should look into seeing how much oil is being spread around in places it should?

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[pauleyman]

was reading up on catch cans, I don’t even know how I would do this stuff and I really don’t understand the acronyms or what things stand for. Is this even something I should look into seeing how much oil is being spread around in places it should?

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Good info but I would say no. Tuck the information away for later. Let's solve one problem at a time.one may affect another but we don't know that yet.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Good info but I would say no. Tuck the information away for later. Let's solve one problem at a time.one may affect another but we don't know that yet.

Ok got it, will do. What problems do you think in order I need to start with? I am currently getting money for the head cleaning.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok got it, will do. What problems do you think in order I need to start with? I am currently getting money for the head cleaning.

Get the car running. Do what needs to be done to accomplish that.

 

[jed344]

We have for the last 15 years always used OEM pulleys, Tensioner. Water pump either oem or the aftermarket one that says AISIN as i recall on it also is a great option. The timing belt we have used the Gates blue kevlar belt, HKS, evo 9 oem as i recall is the one with kevlar too. We have never had any of those break even when a motor at wide open lifted the head and pushed coolant into cylinder. The motor hydro locked and rod punched hole in the block. The gates belt did not break. We maybe just have been lucky with the gates blue belt but we have used them many times on motor's seeing some serious use.

 

[CKOPOCT]

I am still thinking your turbo is suspect #1 wrt the oil in your intake system. Even if you had a positive crankcase pressure problem, it wouldn't be enough to push a quart of oil into the intercooler, plus gum up everything else. If you had that much pressure, your oil dip stick would have popped out of the dip stick tube and you'd probably have oil spray all over the exhaust manifold, hood, alternator, etc. - everything on that side of the engine bay.

I get it your diesel mechanic friend said the turbo felt fine. It's possible the seal is bad but the shaft play is within spec. There is nothing on the intake side that would vomit that much oil into your system other than the turbo. Besides, if it was the crankcase pressure, you would see oil on the turbo impeller and the piping leading to the turbo cold side.

Very much welcome alternate input from the wisemen and more experienced on here (lookin' at you @jed344 and @RamenPride)... but at 100k+ miles and the problems you've noted, I say get a "new to you" turbo.

was reading up on catch cans, I don’t even know how I would do this stuff and I really don’t understand the acronyms or what things stand for. Is this even something I should look into seeing how much oil is being spread around in places it should?

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Here is a video I just shot of my catch can setup. Like Paul said, this is unnecessary at this stage. Just focus on getting running and stable. But here's an explanation. The purpose of a catch can is to trap or "catch" the wet stuff (oil, water vapor, etc.) in the air that gets vented from your valve cover so it doesn't end up in your intake. No system will be 100% perfect, but a properly set up catch can system will remove the overwhelming majority of boogers from getting into your intake.

 

[pauleyman]

I am still thinking your turbo is suspect #1 wrt the oil in your intake system. Even if you had a positive crankcase pressure problem, it wouldn't be enough to push a quart of oil into the intercooler, plus gum up everything else. If you had that much pressure, your oil dip stick would have popped out of the dip stick tube and you'd probably have oil spray all over the exhaust manifold, hood, alternator, etc. - everything on that side of the engine bay.

I get it your diesel mechanic friend said the turbo felt fine. It's possible the seal is bad but the shaft play is within spec. There is nothing on the intake side that would vomit that much oil into your system other than the turbo. Besides, if it was the crankcase pressure, you would see oil on the turbo impeller and the piping leading to the turbo cold side.

Very much welcome alternate input from the wisemen and more experienced on here (lookin' at you @jed344 and @RamenPride)... but at 100k+ miles and the problems you've noted, I say get a "new to you" turbo.

I'm inclined to agree. If there was that much blowby we should see dipstick problems etc. Only other solution i could offer is pull the pistons and look but that's alot of extra work. It's free at least.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I am still thinking your turbo is suspect #1 wrt the oil in your intake system. Even if you had a positive crankcase pressure problem, it wouldn't be enough to push a quart of oil into the intercooler, plus gum up everything else. If you had that much pressure, your oil dip stick would have popped out of the dip stick tube and you'd probably have oil spray all over the exhaust manifold, hood, alternator, etc. - everything on that side of the engine bay.

I get it your diesel mechanic friend said the turbo felt fine. It's possible the seal is bad but the shaft play is within spec. There is nothing on the intake side that would vomit that much oil into your system other than the turbo. Besides, if it was the crankcase pressure, you would see oil on the turbo impeller and the piping leading to the turbo cold side.

Very much welcome alternate input from the wisemen and more experienced on here (lookin' at you @jed344 and @RamenPride)... but at 100k+ miles and the problems you've noted, I say get a "new to you" turbo.

Ok awesome, I will definitely look into a new one! They’re not very much!! I think I will look into just getting a new one, they’re only like 100 or a little more. Not too much.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok awesome, I will definitely look into a new one! They’re not very much!! I think I will look into just getting a new one, they’re only like 100 or a little more. Not too much.

For a new to you turbo, probably so

 

[RubyEclipse]

For a new to you turbo, probably so

Perfect, I’ll get one on eBay or wherever I can get a good price.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

they’re only like 100 or a little more

Do not buy a $100 turbo. If you it’s used like Paul said okay maybe.

If you are getting on eBay or Amazon and buying a $150 turbo I wouldn’t. If you must cheap out on eBay just don’t get the absolute cheapest one.

-Daniel

 

[RubyEclipse]

Do not buy a $100 turbo. If you it’s used like Paul said okay maybe.

If you are getting on eBay or Amazon and buying a $150 turbo I wouldn’t. If you must cheap out at least get a cx racing one or something which can be bought on eBay but don’t get the absolute cheapest one.

-Daniel

Oh no sorry, I did mean what Paul said, I was going to buy a used turbo for this car. Not a new one from a rip off brand.

 

[pauleyman]

Considering this is cheap a new turbo will eliminate one variable when this is put together.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Ok perfect, hopefully this will be one thing less to worry or think about.

Just sold that turbo I got for 40 bucks more than I bought it for so I mean it works out well. That’s quite some more towards resurfacing and cleaning up my other.

Ok so I have purchased the timing kit with new belt and tensioners, along with a new water pump. I just took my head in today to be redone and so I’ll pick that up in a bit too. Then it looks like I’m throwing it all back in right? I think all that’s left is new head studs.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok so I have purchased the timing kit with new belt and tensioners, along with a new water pump. I just took my head in today to be redone and so I’ll pick that up in a bit too. Then it looks like I’m throwing it all back in right? I think all that’s left is new head studs.

You've already got it apart. If you havent been degreasing get started.
The block surface should be prepped also. No abrasive, no grinders etc. Careful use of razor blades is fine. Carbide scrapers, better in my opinion but both of those should be used carefully. Go slow. Watch videos if you need to.