Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[CKOPOCT]

I forgot New bolts. I did not use ARP.
There are questions you must ask yourself. Can i afford to do what I want vs what I need. None of us can answer that for you.
Budget and going fast are conflicting terms.

Yessir! An addage a mentor told me when I was first learning - fast, reliable, cheap: pick two. Actually, it was "fast, fuel efficient, cheap" - but I think "reliable" fits, especially with all the China knock-offs.

 

[pauleyman]

I want to hear from the gallery what the opinion is of the smoke. Oil etc.
I suggest the op needs to check the turbo as well.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Like @RamenPride said. Torque-to-yield means the bolts are designed to stretch and spring when you torque them down. For that reason they cannot be reused. Kinda like pulling the spring in ball point pen out of shape - it won't work quite right after that. And in an engine, the TtY bolts will definitely cause problems if reused.

ARP head studs allow you to use special hardened nuts. They can take a lot of torque and so clamp better. Plus, because they aren't "springy" they can be reused - a definite bonus if you find you have to get the block worked on. Plus, the ARP setup is what you will need to hold the power you eventually want to make.

A new set of oem head bolts will set you back around $50-$75. A new ARP stud set will cost you about $150. My advice - get the ARP. They are high quality hardened steel. OEM are solid, but one use only. If you have to take the head off, you'll need to get a new set of bolts - and the 2 sets = ARP price. If you order a cheaper non-OEM set from Autobone or Slamazon, well... you get what you pay for. And I wouldn't chance that.

Ok for sure, could you send me a good set of ARP I’ll add them to my parts list.

Yessir! An addage a mentor told me when I was first learning - fast, reliable, cheap: pick two. Actually, it was "fast, fuel efficient, cheap" - but I think "reliable" fits, especially with all the China knock-offs.

I really do love this quote.

I forgot New bolts. I did not use ARP.
There are questions you must ask yourself. Can i afford to do what I want vs what I need. None of us can answer that for you.
Budget and going fast are conflicting terms.

Yep, i think I am going with the stock and not fast, not for awhile. I want to do more maintenance work right now before then. I will be saving up a bit more and getting the right parts and not what I want but what I need.

 

[CKOPOCT]

I want to hear from the gallery what the opinion is of the smoke. Oil etc.
I suggest the op needs to check the turbo as well.

I agree. Looking at the engine bay pic I see a lot of what looks like oil residue on the charge pipe and bov. I'm thinking the turbo seals are suspect. I'd pull the intercooler and would bet it's holding a quart or ten .

 

[pauleyman]

I agree. Looking at the engine bay pic I see a lot of what looks like oil residue on the charge pipe and bov. I'm thinking the turbo seals are suspect. I'd pull the intercooler and would bet it's holding a quart or ten .

Actually thats a great idea. Pull the intercooler

 

[CKOPOCT]

@RubyEclipse - the intercooler is in front of the passenger front tire. If you squat by the pass front tire, looking toward the front you'll see vent fins molded into the wheel well plastic. Pull the plastic cover and crawl under that front quarter panel and you'll see the intercooler.

It's typical to have a bit of muck built up in the bottom of it after 100k+ miles. But if the turbo seals have gone (as I suspect), then there'll be a pool of oil sitting in the bottom of the intercooler. The inlet and outlet will ha e a coating of oil as well.

Easy to clean. Water and dawn - a lot of water and dawn - fill 1/4, slosh and agitate, dump, rinse, repeat... until it comes clean. Then rinse the bajesus out of it to get any trace of soap out. Then let it dry.

 

[RubyEclipse]

@RubyEclipse - the intercooler is in front of the passenger front tire. If you squat by the pass front tire, looking toward the front you'll see vent fins molded into the wheel well plastic. Pull the plastic cover and crawl under that front quarter panel and you'll see the intercooler.

It's typical to have a bit of muck built up in the bottom of it after 100k+ miles. But if the turbo seals have gone (as I suspect), then there'll be a pool of oil sitting in the bottom of the intercooler. The inlet and outlet will ha e a coating of oil as well.

Easy to clean. Water and dawn - a lot of water and dawn - fill 1/4, slosh and agitate, dump, rinse, repeat... until it comes clean. Then rinse the bajesus out of it to get any trace of soap out. Then let it dry.

Ok perfect, that one I did know where it was. I heard people saying I should replace is it, is that a good idea and do I need to do it any time soon?

I agree. Looking at the engine bay pic I see a lot of what looks like oil residue on the charge pipe and bov. I'm thinking the turbo seals are suspect. I'd pull the intercooler and would bet it's holding a quart or ten .

Ok definitely, most of that oil is from a crack in my previous valve cover. Guy covered it with jb weld instead of replacing it.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Yep, i think I am going with the stock and not fast, not for awhile. I want to do more maintenance work right now before then. I will be saving up a bit more and getting the right parts and not what I want but what I need.

I will tell you I've spent somewhere between 12k and 16k to rebuild my GST spyder. Now, I'm no where near stock. I'll be running around 370hp through the tranny, but the system is built for potentially 500hp. Most of the cost is in the go fast parts, but about 4k is in regular repairs and some customization that has nothing to do with speed (speakers, lights, interior, gauges, etc.). And most of the money was spent before the great price hike of the last few years.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok perfect, that one I did know where it was. I heard people saying I should replace is it, is that a good idea and do I need to do it any time soon?

If there are no holes in it then no you don't need to replace it.
Many of us do to get a bigger one but that's in the want vs need category.

Ok definitely, most of that oil is from a crack in my previous valve cover. Guy covered it with jb weld instead of replacing it.

Most of what oil?

 

[RubyEclipse]

If there are no holes in it then no you don't need to replace it.
Many of us do to get a bigger one but that's in the want vs need category.

The other guy said he said oil residue in places, it’s because I had a huge oil leak from the valve cover.

I will tell you I've spent somewhere between 12k and 16k to rebuild my GST spyder. Now, I'm no where near stock. I'll be running around 370hp through the tranny, but the system is built for potentially 500hp. Most of the cost is in the go fast parts, but about 4k is in regular repairs and some customization that has nothing to do with speed (speakers, lights, interior, gauges, etc.). And most of the money was spent before the great price hike of the last few years.

Sheesh, I know I’m young that might not seem as much when I’m older, but dang that’s a lot. Is there a way I can have it running and driving quite a bit less that even 5-6k? I wanna be able to experience the car before I start having to upgrade and change things.

 

[pauleyman]

The other guy said he said oil residue in places, it’s because I had a huge oil leak from the valve cover.

That's external. Easy fixes. Yiur concern is oil out the tail pipe inside the motor, etc.

Sheesh, I know I’m young that might not seem as much when I’m older, but dang that’s a lot is there a way I can have it running and driving quite a bit less that even 5-6k? I wanna be able to experience the car before I start having to upgrade and change things.

If we're right you can run and drive under 1000. If you find the bottom end has problems then that have to be added. I'm skeptical if it was running ok when you bought it.

 

[RubyEclipse]

That's external. Easy fixes. Yiur concern is oil out the tail pipe inside the motor, etc.

Ok, gotcha. Sounds good, sir yes sir .

If we're right you can run and drive under 1000. If you find the bottom end has problems then that have to be added. I'm skeptical if it was running ok when you bought it.

It wasn’t rocky or anything, the first gear felt a lil weird but was still good. Had one of my friends who worked on these cars test drive it and he didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. If you guys tell me what to get I’ll buy them and install them. I’m going to check the inter cooler tmrw, I’m saving up to have the head cleaned and surfaced, and also for ARP head studs. Anything else I’m missing, I wanna make sure I’m getting it all. Once again thank you guys all so much for everything!!!

 

[pauleyman]

Rockauto is a great source for parts of you're not in a hurry. Wasn't sure if you've heard of them.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Sheesh, I know I’m young that might not seem as much when I’m older, but dang that’s a lot is there a way I can have it running and driving quite a bit less that even 5-6k? I wanna be able to experience the car before I start having to upgrade and change things.

You 100% can get your car running, and running reliably, for way less than 6k. My post was to give you an idea of the kind of money you need to be thinking about if you decide you want to go from stock to stout. And 12k-16k is very high. I bought a lot of new parts and went with a complete overhaul. I even changed from an automatic to a manual. But if you want a lot more power down the road, you cannot just buy a bigger turbo and expect big gains. You'll have to change a lot of stuff once you start thinging about 250+ hp.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Rockauto is a great source for parts of you're not in a hurry. Wasn't sure if you've heard of them.

No haven’t heard of them, I’ll definitely look them up! Thank you.

You 100% can get your car running, and running reliably, for way less than 6k. My post was to give you an idea of the kind of money you need to be thinking about if you decide you want to go from stock to stout. And 12k-16k is very high. I bought a lot of new parts and went with a complete overhaul. I even changed from an automatic to a manual. But if you want a lot more power down the road, you cannot just buy a bigger turbo and expect big gains. You'll have to change a lot of stuff once you start thinging about 250+ hp.

Oh sweet, that sounds great to me. I’ll definitely be a lot slower to just buying parts and do my research more.

 

[pauleyman]

No haven’t heard of them, I’ll definitely look them up! Thank you.


Oh sweet, that sounds great to me. I’ll definitely be a lot slower to just buying parts and do my research more.

I was quoting rockauto prices. Definately cheaper. Stick with name brand. Do not cheap out.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I was quoting rockauto prices. Definately cheaper. Stick with name brand. Do not cheap out.

Got it, will do. Is this for most parts or which ones in general, are we talking about the valve stem seals?

Also I pulled out my intercooler everyone, and yes you guys were right. There was a large chunk of oil in it, a great amount actually. So I’m degreasing and cleaning it up and out, does this mean my turbo seals are blown?

 

[pauleyman]

Got it, will do. Is this for most parts or which ones in general, are we talking about the valve stem seals?

You buy a top end kit. Not individual.
Includes head gasket, oil seals etc.

 

[RubyEclipse]

You buy a top end kit. Not individual.
Includes head gasket, oil seals etc.

Ok got it, then I do already have it all. I just saw the valve stems from the kit I purchased.

 

[pauleyman]

Define large amount of oil.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Define large amount of oil.

2-3 cups worth I’d say. Maybe even more.

 

[pauleyman]

Ok got it, then I do already have it all. I just saw the valve stems from the kit I purchased.

You bought a gasket kit?

 

[RubyEclipse]

You bought a gasket kit?

Yes, I bought one a bit back before I really even did much. It’s a full head gasket kit, came with all the seals.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes, I bought one a bit back before I really even did much. It’s a full head gasket kit, came with all the seals.

Hate to ask. What brand. And this is for dsm. Not evo?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Hate to ask. What brand. And this is for dsm. Not evo?

Not for an evo, not this time.

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