Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[pauleyman]

Many of those spots some oil is normal. What color smoke?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Many of those spots some oil is normal. What color smoke?

White to blue, I would definitely say more white.

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[pauleyman]

Have you drained oil in the motor? Or drained radiator?

 

[RubyEclipse]

Have you drained oil in the motor? Or drained radiator?

Yes, both. This was also going along with the rapid power loss, I think I’ve said before it would not go above 25-3000 RPMS, no matter what I did. One night the lights flickered so badly and my car started to sputter so I pulled over and it died immediately. Fired up again super fast, but was insanely hot, and smoky. I have a brand new alternator on, last one was burnt. But it seems the power flow isn’t still fluid the way it should be.

 

[pauleyman]

What did the oil and coolant look like?
I think you overheated. We don't know why. Something else could've happened but you've already disassembled everything.

 

[RubyEclipse]

What did the oil and coolant look like?
I think you overheated. We don't know why. Something else could've happened but you've already disassembled everything.

Oil looked decent because I had replaced it not many hundred miles before, I also put a lot of coolant in to top it off since I didn’t see any ounce of flow. So it looked pretty decent too.

 

[pauleyman]

If nothing mixed that's good. No glitter in the oil?

 

[RubyEclipse]

If nothing mixed that's good. No glitter in the oil?

Nope, it looked like it had been ran for a couple thousand miles even tho it was over 500 miles. But nothing out of the ordinary.

Now I can’t say I did the best and most wonderful job, but I got the rest of the gasket off and cleaned off the rust. Now saving up money to get the head cleaned and resurfaced. Whatever you guys think I should do after or before I put this head on, let me know. Thank you all again!!

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you have any "marks" (gouges) on the piston tops, you will need to debur those, as they will become hot spots and cause preignition. Use a dremel tool to remove any valve gouges on the piston tops. Check the block deck with a flat edge to make sure it isn't warped when it got hot also. Clean, clean and clean again as you don't want debris in the cylinders.

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[RubyEclipse]

If you have any "marks" (gouges) on the piston tops, you will need to debur those, as they will become hot spots and cause preignition. Use a dremel tool to remove any valve gouges on the piston tops. Check the block deck with a flat edge to make sure it isn't warped when it got hot also. Clean, clean and clean again as you don't want debris in the cylinders.

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How do I know how much to Dremel on the pistons? I don’t wanna go to low or not low enough.

 

[pauleyman]

How do I know how much to Dremel on the pistons? I don’t wanna go to low or not low enough.

It's diddly squat amount. Just knock any sharp edges off. Piston already has a valve relief. A valve hitting it will cause a sharp edge. Take away that edge. Won't take but a few quick swipes per piston.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It's diddly squat amount. Just knock any sharp edges off. Piston already has a valve relief. A valve hitting it will cause a sharp edge. Take away that edge. Won't take but a few quick swipes per piston.

Ok got it. What should I do after that and cleaning the surface and cylinders?

 

[steve]

Ok got it. What should I do after that and cleaning the surface and cylinders?

It's going to throw both aluminum dust and some of whatever you use to knock it off like a stone or sanding drum. So you'll be cleaning after regardless.

 

[pauleyman]

So far we're assuming bottom end is fine. Worst case scenario is you will sacrifice a head gasket if it isn't. If you aren't ready to move forward i would just leave the cleaning until you are. Degrease other areas. Timing belt area. Front of block etc. If the cam sensor mounts to new head just like the old one you're ready to send it to machine shop any time. Last one I did was 300$. You will need the top end gasket kit before this as the machinist will need the valve stem seals for assembly. Some shops carry them.

 

[RubyEclipse]

It's going to throw both aluminum dust and some of whatever you use to knock it off like a stone or sanding drum. So you'll be cleaning after regardless.

So far we're assuming bottom end is fine. Worst case scenario is you will sacrifice a head gasket if it isn't. If you aren't ready to move forward i would just leave the cleaning until you are. Degrease other areas. Timing belt area. Front of block etc. If the cam sensor mounts to new head just like the old one you're ready to send it to machine shop any time. Last one I did was 300$. You will need the top end gasket kit before this as the machinist will need the valve stem seals for assembly. Some shops carry them.

Ok, I will get some money to do that.

So far we're assuming bottom end is fine. Worst case scenario is you will sacrifice a head gasket if it isn't. If you aren't ready to move forward i would just leave the cleaning until you are. Degrease other areas. Timing belt area. Front of block etc. If the cam sensor mounts to new head just like the old one you're ready to send it to machine shop any time. Last one I did was 300$. You will need the top end gasket kit before this as the machinist will need the valve stem seals for assembly. Some shops carry them.

Ok I will get it cleaned and resurfaced when I can get some more money, how should I go about degreasing everything? That stuff is coated and sealed on I swear. I have all gaskets, I bought a kit for a head rebuild on Amazon. Can I use my old valve stem seals or no?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Most "soft" parts are always replaceable. Hard parts get cleaned thoroughly and reused. Valve stem seals are a soft part so NO you can't reuse them. They aren't expensive. Look through our supporting vendors sections for valve stem seals that are quality parts.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Most "soft" parts are always replaceable. Hard parts get cleaned thoroughly and reused. Valve stem seals are a soft part so NO you can't reuse them. They aren't expensive. Look through our supporting vendors sections for valve stem seals that are quality parts.

Ok got it, I’ll order this in. Thank you

 

[pauleyman]

Ok, I will get some money to do that.

Ok I will get it cleaned and resurfaced when I can get some more money, how should I go about degreasing everything? That stuff is coated and sealed on I swear. I have all gaskets, I bought a kit for a head rebuild on Amazon. Can I use my old valve stem seals or no?

Let common sense be your guide here.
Answer is no.

On degreasing....cheapest option is a good water based degreaser like simple green (get a gallon) and assortment of soft brushes and LOTS of elbow grease. You will make a big mess on the ground. Best to do this in an area you can do that. Anything you can remove to degrease it's easier. Be mindful of gaskets, open holes etc.

I just did what you're attempting and I think I spend about 1000 getting it together and I used the head i had just had it repaired.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I just did what you're attempting and I think I spend about 1000 getting it together and I used the head i had just had it repaired.

What exactly all did you do? I hope I’m not going to have to spend quite that much and nothing work or run…

 

[CKOPOCT]

Completely understand your concern about cost. But the best thing you can do is spend the money to ensure you have quality parts and a solid job done. Even if the engine costs you $1500, as long as the quality is good the engine should last you for years.

Given you eventually want to push significantly more boost to the engine, I would spend the money to get ARP head studs. Now is the perfect time to install them, and they will clamp and hold better than stock head bolts.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Completely understand your concern about cost. But the best thing you can do is spend the money to ensure you have quality parts and a solid job done. Even if the engine costs you $1500, as long as the quality is good the engine should last you for years.

Given you eventually want to push significantly more boost to the engine, I would spend the money to get ARP head studs. Now is the perfect time to install them, and they will clamp and hold better than stock head bolts.

I saw that on a different forum, said I couldn’t reuse my bolts since they’re 7 bolt? Is it worth it just spending a couple hundred for arp ones?

 

[RamenPride]

I saw that on a different forum, said I couldn’t reuse my bolts since they’re 7 bolt? Is it worth it just spending a couple hundred for arp ones?

Stock 7-bolt head bolts are torque to yield, and should not be re-used. Definitely worth it to get ARP's versus stock replacement head bolts.

 

[pauleyman]

What exactly all did you do? I hope I’m not going to have to spend quite that much and nothing work or run…

Complete top end gasket kit
Timing belt and water pump kit
All new hoses
Thermostat
Spark plugs
Wires
Oil pump seals
New lifters
New valves
Machine work
New accessory belts

You can get away with less but you may end up doing some jobs twice.
There are no guarantees. 1000$ is cheap in relative terms.

 

[CKOPOCT]

I saw that on a different forum, said I couldn’t reuse my bolts since they’re 7 bolt? Is it worth it just spending a couple hundred for arp ones?

Like @RamenPride said. Torque-to-yield means the bolts are designed to stretch and spring when you torque them down. For that reason they cannot be reused. Kinda like pulling the spring in ball point pen out of shape - it won't work quite right after that. And in an engine, the TtY bolts will definitely cause problems if reused.

ARP head studs allow you to use special hardened nuts. They can take a lot of torque and so clamp better. Plus, because they aren't "springy" they can be reused - a definite bonus if you find you have to get the block worked on. Plus, the ARP setup is what you will need to hold the power you eventually want to make.

A new set of oem head bolts will set you back around $50-$75. A new ARP stud set will cost you about $150. My advice - get the ARP. They are high quality hardened steel. OEM are solid, but one use only. If you have to take the head off, you'll need to get a new set of bolts - and the 2 sets = ARP price. If you order a cheaper non-OEM set from Autobone or Slamazon, well... you get what you pay for. And I wouldn't chance that.

 

[pauleyman]

I forgot New bolts. I did not use ARP.
There are questions you must ask yourself. Can i afford to do what I want vs what I need. None of us can answer that for you.
Budget and going fast are conflicting terms.