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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Stock 14b,--> PTE 5031--> FP Red --> GTX 3584RS build 1GB --> 1GA chassis swap

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PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

DO A BOOST LEAK TEST BEFORE TUNING. WITH SOAPY WATER.
You might think all your stuff is tight and leak free but you could be wrong.


I should have done this before even starting to tune. It should be part of it initial setup just the same as setting base timing but I figured everything was fine. It was not fine.

Tuner said we were down on boost a little bit. I got home and decided to do a boost leak test and I am glad I did. What I found was:

- Lower injector seals were ALL leaking. (Phenolic gasket was not leaking. Bubbles are from the injector seal) Cylinder 4 felt like someone was blowing through a straw it leaked so bad. The rest leaked quite a bit less, but they all leaked none the less. Replaced with some new parts I had and good to go.

- Throttle body bolts were leaking. Rtv on the threads fixed that one. I don't ever remove the throttle body from the manifold anyways so should be fine for the foreseeable Future.

- A few small leaks on couplers. Easy fix by just tightening them.
PXL_20250421_224846428.jpgPXL_20250421_231257016.jpg

Luckily we haven't made it super far into tuning for it to make a big difference
Just been driving the car to work 2-3 times a week. And been doing some 3rd gear pulls for logging between rains.

We're working our way back into boost and dialing in idle. Cruising seems to be going pretty great so far. We're back to around 30psi and it feels pretty fast already with 13° up top. Not sure if that's due to me not having done a full 3rd in such a long time or what. Still a long ways to go until I can do some multi gear pulls.
PXL_20250418_125028327.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg
 
What are you running for tires? If I do a pull like that, my car is crazy spinning, not gripping, even with my 4 Hankook Ventus Drag Radials.
 
Yeah a 3rd gear pull, as soon as boost hits, my car will rip thru the rpms so fast, the tires are a limiting point. I had my regular 215/50/16s on and just had wheel spin bad enough to get dangerous and throw the log horsepower into the 1000 area. When that happens, I KNOW it's wheel spin and the car is spooky. When I put the Drag Radials on, they will grip better but if/WHEN they quit gripping, it is like driving on ice. This is at 30 psi on my HX40. I haven't turned it up anymore because it just won't hold it. The car is built for 45lbs but I can't use it.
Thanks for the info and reply!
 
Yeah a 3rd gear pull, as soon as boost hits, my car will rip thru the rpms so fast, the tires are a limiting point. I had my regular 215/50/16s on and just had wheel spin bad enough to get dangerous and throw the log horsepower into the 1000 area. When that happens, I KNOW it's wheel spin and the car is spooky. When I put the Drag Radials on, they will grip better but if/WHEN they quit gripping, it is like driving on ice. This is at 30 psi on my HX40. I haven't turned it up anymore because it just won't hold it. The car is built for 45lbs but I can't use it.
Thanks for the info and reply!
That's crazy. I figured I'd have to move over to some Hoosiers or something to get enough grip to use 2nd at all.
 
Me too!!! I don't know what the size limit of tires are for a stock rim, but I need alot more grip. I am stuck in mid 12's at 129 in the 1/4 according to draggy.
 
Me too!!! I don't know what the size limit of tires are for a stock rim, but I need alot more grip. I am stuck in mid 12's at 129 in the 1/4 according to draggy.
I haven't done any sort of digs in this car yet.

Does your speedo have an issue with keeping up with actual mph when you're giving it the beans?
This logs shows 115mph and when I hit rev limit in 3rd the speedo shows 101.
 
Yeah, mine is a bit slow but I figured it was because my car was TOO FAST ROFL but yes, it lags a little but not quite as much as yours. My son has a GoPro video of us PASSING two cars racing on the highway. My speedo said 165, the GoPro said different. :cool:
 
Yeah, mine is a bit slow but I figured it was because my car was TOO FAST ROFL but yes, it lags a little but not quite as much as yours. My son has a GoPro video of us PASSING two cars racing on the highway. My speedo said 165, the GoPro said different. :cool:
I would like to see this Marty.:cool:
 
Been plugging away at the tune with the tuner. We're back up into the mid 40s for boost again with some spicy timing.

Here's a pull from this morning 44psi peak and 39 out the back, spinning in the middle of it.

Speedo shows only 101 while the log shows 115.




I could hear your butthole pucker. That looks freakin' wild, man.
 
Yeah a 3rd gear pull, as soon as boost hits, my car will rip thru the rpms so fast, the tires are a limiting point. I had my regular 215/50/16s on and just had wheel spin bad enough to get dangerous and throw the log horsepower into the 1000 area. When that happens, I KNOW it's wheel spin and the car is spooky. When I put the Drag Radials on, they will grip better but if/WHEN they quit gripping, it is like driving on ice. This is at 30 psi on my HX40. I haven't turned it up anymore because it just won't hold it. The car is built for 45lbs but I can't use it.
Thanks for the info and reply!
That's crazy. What's your airflow at 30psi? I've run all sorts of tires on my 60mm HX40 setup and have only ever spun on factory 215/50/17 sized tires. With even decent tires I can get near 40psi and mid 60s in the airflow and she just runs.

I haven't done any sort of digs in this car yet.

Does your speedo have an issue with keeping up with actual mph when you're giving it the beans?
This logs shows 115mph and when I hit rev limit in 3rd the speedo shows 101.
The 1G speedo sensor is insanely slow to react, especially when making real power.
 
That's crazy. What's your airflow at 30psi? I've run all sorts of tires on my 60mm HX40 setup and have only ever spun on factory 215/50/17 sized tires. With even decent tires I can get near 40psi and mid 60s in the airflow and she just runs.
Flowing 59.2 on 30lbs at 8800rpm
 
This one's been really weighing me down a bit.

Car developed a leak on the transmission side, basically right where the bell housing meets the oil pan. It seems wet about 1/3rd the way up the bell housing so I'm thinking it might be rear main seal? I'm really not sure. Top of the trans is clean.

I did buy a whole new rear main setup. Seal housing, seal, gasket and oil/ seal separator just in case. I'll probably pull the oil pan AGAIN to make sure it's sealed correctly.

You can kind of see some of spots here. Looks like oil mixed with clutch material, really gritty/ sandy looking. All over the slave cylinder, couple spots on the trans, the oil pan is wet also. It does also make it's way to the far side of the trans where 5th sits on the last casing. Hopefully it's not getting all over emy clutch disks and flywheel.

Screenshot_20250502-110513.png
 
Well its a good thing I enjoyed driving the car as much as i did last week because now the car is shitting the bed.

Car is now not building anything over wastegate pressure and surprise, the alternator is dying again. After about 5 minutes of driving voltage drops to 11.5-6volts and then continues to drop. Tuner and myself think that the low voltage to the ecu is causing it to not activate the boost control solenoid. We're requesting about 31% wastegate duty cycle but only seeing about 15-20psi instead of the 35-40. I replaced the solenoid as well with a new one and still does it afterwards.

ANOTHER new alternator is on the way and while thats on the way, I also bought a new oil pan again and im sending that in to Buschurs to have them the thier baffle mod since the one i have on here doesnt fit quite right. I had my local fab guy weld this one in but it didnt turn out all that good because we didnt really locate the pickup anywhere inside the pan before welding it. Just kind of sent it.

I also bought a new universal replacement power steering line from the reservoir to the pump to try and fix this leak. Its leaking seemingly out of where the line goes over the barb. Ive already got another hose clamp on it but its still leaking.

My JNZ Shifter should be here this Saturday. Im super excited to see how this changes the shifting. I'll post up a before and after video of the throw distance above the console. I honestly could care less about how much it shortens the throw compared to how it makes shifting feel.

And last little thing is that I installed a different single dinn head unit in the car as well. Its a fairly older one but this one has bluetooth so i can actually play music from my phone on it and i gotta say, the speakers actually sound pretty decent! I was actually surprised.
PXL_20250503_200216729.jpg

Anyways, plans for the car right now is get the trans pulled, which almost everything up top is basically done, all thats left right now is t-case, exhaust, slave cylinder, drain the trans, axles, then trans bolts and she's ready to drop out.

PXL_20250506_231057505.jpg

Obviously while its out, the rear main seal, new oil pan, shifter will all be getting installed.
 
Well replacing the rear man I think was the correct move. Obviously as you can see there's definitely been some oil back here. For how long? Hopefully not long.
PXL_20250507_231724534.jpgPXL_20250507_231729111.jpgPXL_20250507_231804269.jpgPXL_20250507_234914448.jpgPXL_20250507_235101788.jpg

If anyone has got some advice on if this clutch wear is normal I'm all ears. Doesn't look like it got too hot at all IMO but I'm new to twin disks. I might make a whole new post for the transmission gods of the forum to get their input. It's just odd that one of the disks has wear on the inside of the friction disks and the other has wear on the outside. I'm worried that maybe oil got on the disks?
PXL_20250508_001523449.jpgPXL_20250508_001547850.jpgPXL_20250508_001546176.jpgPXL_20250508_001536217.jpgPXL_20250508_001628909.jpgPXL_20250508_001627175.jpgPXL_20250508_001607338.jpgPXL_20250508_001634105.jpgPXL_20250508_001650487.jpgPXL_20250508_001647358.jpgPXL_20250508_001645911.jpg
 
I had two OEM Galant alternators for my 2G and even rewired I'd be mid to high 12 volts during pulls. Even pulling the plug to give it full juice didn't help. Also mounted in the rear away from the heat. Mitsubishi just didn't make good alternators got the performance aspect of things.

I swapped in a MCR Saturn 1-wire unit and enjoy 13.9-14.5 all day and night. Definitely a great upgrade.
 
I had two OEM Galant alternators for my 2G and even rewired I'd be mid to high 12 volts during pulls. Even pulling the plug to give it full juice didn't help. Also mounted in the rear away from the heat. Mitsubishi just didn't make good alternators got the performance aspect of things.

I swapped in a MCR Saturn 1-wire unit and enjoy 13.9-14.5 all day and night. Definitely a great upgrade.
This will be my 5th MCR Saturn alternator.
My power steering line leaks and kills them apparently. This one lasted awhile but still died
 
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