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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Stock 14b,--> PTE 5031--> FP Red --> GTX 3584RS build 1GB --> 1GA chassis swap

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It made driving this car so nerve-racking because i never knew if the car died or i turned it off if it was going to start back up again or not.

F*cking tell me about it!

Took the car for a little spin today and it still absolutely rips. I forgot how fast it is. 2nd gear finally hooked a cool 70° today and saw 42lbs again. What a great feeling.

Hell to the yeah. We need a video of said rips!
 
Hell to the yeah. We need a video of said rips!
Ask and you shall receive!



Well as you can see drive to work today was successful!
Little 2-3 rip and the car didn't bog down on shifting. I did disable acceleration enrichment from 4500+ which just adds extra fuel based on tps, when there's already that much airflow going in the engine it apparently doesn't need that extra fuel. So that seems to have fixed the funky bog/ breakup issue I saw previously.

I still ended up hitting my boost cut at 50 psi which cut the run short at 102mph / 7500 rpm instead of 9K.

Oh and it blew the compressor outlet coupler off. I can't seem to cut those right so they actually fit well.. ordered a new one. 5th times the charm?

Gorgeous. I want a ride in this thing, man. Wanna feel that 40+lbs.
Seriously if you're ever up here somehow, hit me up and if the car is still running I'd be happy to!
 
Ask and you shall receive!



Well as you can see drive to work today was successful!
Little 2-3 rip and the car didn't bog down on shifting. I did disable acceleration enrichment from 4500+ which just adds extra fuel based on tps, when there's already that much airflow going in the engine it apparently doesn't need that extra fuel. So that seems to have fixed the funky bog/ breakup issue I saw previously.

I still ended up hitting my boost cut at 50 psi which cut the run short at 102mph / 7500 rpm instead of 9K.

Oh and it blew the compressor outlet coupler off. I can't seem to cut those right so they actually fit well.. ordered a new one. 5th times the charm?


Seriously if you're ever up here somehow, hit me up and if the car is still running I'd be happy to!


Freakin rips man. Part of me really wants to build a full racetard setup like this. Lol. Stoked for you.


“If the car is still running” said EVERY dsm’er ever LOL

LOL even I say this about my measly setup. Cracks me up!
 
New 30° push lock fittings for the valve cover came in. Fixed the issue of the lines themselves hitting the hood. Side issue still though, the fittings themselves hit the hood still 🤦 also, these radium fittings leak.. right out of the swivel part of the body. Oil going all over the front and back of the valve cover.
PXL_20250412_194613543.jpg
PXL_20250410_221349541.jpg

I'm going to find the lowest of lowest profile fittings I can find an slap em on there. So far I've found these FITTINGS but at $90 a fitting.... Maaaaaan idk. They do say they are only .6" tall though.. not even sure how that's possible.

Friday night was a cruiser night downtown.
I fixed the blown off coupler from Thursday and Showed up with the talon. Ever since I got the car running again the switchover from idle to acceleration or just leaving from a stop completely bogs the car so hard it almost dies. Lambda shows pretty lean at like 1.2lambda when it does. I don't know if it's a rich misfire or what. I have to rev it to like 3k and let the clutch out slowly and then off and away.. but man that's embarrassing. I don't know how stuff like that happens when nothing has changed tune wise from before and after I pulled the head but somehow it's different. I slapped on an old tune file that was still relevant and it seemed to have fixed it about 90% of the way..

I didn't a couple small 1-2 pulls next to a parking lot where a lot of the kids come to watch and then shorty after parked to pick up a buddy for a ride and about 25 people came over to check out the car. Made me feel pretty cool. People ooo-ing and ahhh-ing.

Took my buddy for a ride but it was short lived because the damn coupler off the compressor housing blew off again. I drove 25 minutes back home with no turbo and the car drove absolutely great despite it.

PXL_20250412_170928298.jpg

Saturday I pulled the coil packs to double check some base timing drift when revving and while doing so I put on those $100 coil pack boots that actually fit now. My wife helped and she kept giggling and laughing cause they look like dillys. 😉
PXL_20250412_222821330.jpgPXL_20250412_222929225.jpg

Now I'm working with Tuner to get some overall tuning finished up and moving on to closed loop boost control. I'll probably target a max of 48lbs, I think 50+ is probably pushing this turbo a bit too hard.
 
One thing with this car that bothers the absolute hell out of me to drive.. is the shifter throw distance. I feel like I'm rowing a boat..

I think I'm going to look into it if JNZ still makes short shifters out of the 3000gt shifters and go that route if they do. I don't care about shifting faster, I just want shifting to feel better.
 
Found me a nice 93+ 3000gt shift lever for a good deal so I snagged that up. And I'll be sending that their way to have them modify it.

Heard back from JNZ and they still DO offer the short shifter, provided you give them a core to modify.

If anyone is interested in this you'll need to verify that you have the right shifter as they are interchange on the 3000gt technically but they ARE different..

93+ short shifter REQUIRED for this mod:
Screenshot_20250415-074128.pngShifter-Assembly-93-2.jpg
This also has "93R" stamped on the bottom portion too.

The 91-92 I INCORRECT shifter for this mod:
Screenshot_20250415-073612_1.png

Take note of the bottom portion being much wider and flat on the correct one, as well as the amount of the total shift lever under the pivot point. THIS is what is actually shortening the throw.

It's also important to note that if you are having this mod done for a 1990, you'll need some additional parts off the lower portion / base of the shifter.. 91+ shifter assemblies only require just the shift lever itself.

Special thanks to @DSSA for the info!
 
I was able to find one for what I feel is a reasonable $80 shipped for just the lever.
I used to see GTO used shifters in Japan used to be really cheap like less than $20. So even you pay some international shipping, it would be still cheap. BUT actually I start to think that the JDM shifter lever may not be used due to RHD vs LHD. The angle may be different/opposite.
 
Drove the ol girl to work today. Didn't know if I was going to be able to because weather called for snow yesterday and today.

Despite being 80° on Wednesday, it snowed yesterday, and no snow today.

On the larger news side of stuff, I ended up going with a new tuner. Now bring tuned by Black Sheep Tuning. First revision this morning and all is working pretty well so far.

I him I wanted to make the sauce so we'll see what spice his tune brings!

PXL_20250418_125028327.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg
 
I really took my best crack at it. If it was ecm link I probably could have managed a somewhat decent tune but this Link ECU is just too much for me.


Understandable. I’m sure if I pushed through I could do it, but I just don’t want to. Pure laziness and lack of free time. It’s not that ECMLink is hard or anything. I’m just being honest about me being the problem. Lol.
 
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