Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[Anfurnyy]

That’s the bulk head from the AC evaporator core under the passenger side dash, I only know that because I had to pull it out to repair the wiring harness I drilled thru

I guess I'll have to make sure I didn't drill through that. I'm pretty sure I didn't

 

[CrackedDSM]

I guess I'll have to make sure I didn't drill through that. I'm pretty sure I didn't

If you’re not gonna use that little plastic cover can I have it? It’s one of those small things that most DSMs don’t have and I’m all about it. Plus I plan to actually have A/C. Win win?

 

[Anfurnyy]

If you’re not gonna use that little plastic cover can I have it? It’s one of those small things that most DSMs don’t have and I’m all about it. Plus I plan to actually have A/C. Win win?

Which plastic cover? The little clear one over the evaporator ports on the firewall?

I'm planning on keeping A/C as well

 

[CrackedDSM]

Which plastic cover? The little clear one over the evaporator ports on the firewall?

I'm planning on keeping A/C as well

Yeah that one.


And suuuuuuuuuure you are Mr. 51psi. Plus, you live in South Dakota. What's it get there, like 40* in the summer?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Set my 360 camera up again to attempted another cruise home video but it kept stopping. Luckily it got the best part!

Enjoy, 50 psi!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Well the car is having a hard time starting again. The ECU is not seeing engine rpm again for some reason when it's warm and only while cranking. Been working with Link Support on their forums and haven't really gotten anywhere. I believe it's a bad crank sensor. The Kiggly crank sensor kit uses an Evo 8 OEM cam sensor which are known for being very heat and vibration sensitive. Car seems to get rpm signal when it's cold but as soon as it's about 140°+ it just completely loses it. I've got a different sensor on the way from EvoSpec that uses their Evo cam sensor adapter for their cherry sensors which are a bit more robust.

It's so odd though because it will show engine rpm when it's first starting while cold but as soon as it it gets to about 160° and I try to restart it, it doesn't seem rpm anymore. Last time I pulled the timing cover to check the sensor there was a small amount of coolant inside the timing area and the crank sensor has some on it as well. It looks like my water pump is leaking inside the cover, likely due to having to loosen the alternator tensioner arm bolt that runs through the water pump while taking the alternator out.

This brings me to my next big topic, big maintenance. In order to fix the water pump gasket I'll have to remove the timing belt so coolant doesn't get all over it, so obviously I'll have to drain coolant. Well if I gotta remove the timing belt I might as well pull the head and swap the head gasket out with the SCE one I have and get my ARM head stud washer inserts installed too.

While it's down I'll likely some other small stuff like new -12 AN fittings for catch can, as well as have the valve cover powder coated.

 

[1cleangsx]

Which head gasket are you on now?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Which head gasket are you on now?

Stock mitsu composite

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Set my 360 camera up again to attempted another cruise home video but it kept stopping. Luckily it got the best part!

Enjoy, 50 psi!

I thoroughly enjoyed the 50

 

[Anfurnyy]

I thoroughly enjoyed the 50

Thanks! It was fun but I definitely wish it didn't break up. That little run I hit boost cut and then did a funky rich spike but it still scoots.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Got the manifolds off and found this on the exhaust side. Cyl 2 and 3 are black as night. 1 and 4 are dry white.
The black isn't oil feeling, it feels wet just like condensation. Even wiping with a towel its like wet soot stuff.

Here's what some of the valve stems look like. Unfortunately I can't remember which cylinders this was, I THINK 2 and 3?

It looks like one of them might have been burning oil, but I never noticed any excessive smoke or anything. Idk but new valve seals are going in when the heads off / apart.

 

[1cleangsx]

Are you disassembling/re assembling it yourself? Hope you get her sorted out, I feel like the downtime/wrenching on these cars is half the fun

 

[Anfurnyy]

Are you disassembling/re assembling it yourself? Hope you get her sorted out, I feel like the downtime/wrenching on these cars is half the fun

Oh absolutely only thing I don't do is machine work and fabrication

And that's only because I don't have a machine shop or a welder

 

[DSMPT]

Got the manifolds off and found this on the exhaust side. Cyl 2 and 3 are black as night. 1 and 4 are dry white.
The black isn't oil feeling, it feels wet just like condensation. Even wiping with a towel its like wet soot stuff.

Here's what some of the valve stems look like. Unfortunately I can't remember which cylinders this was, I THINK 2 and 3?

It looks like one of them might have been burning oil, but I never noticed any excessive smoke or anything. Idk but new valve seals are going in when the heads off / apart.

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How do the spark plugs look like? If the #2/3 look more dry black fouled than #1/4, maybe the injector flow difference between each cylinder or weaker spark at #2/3 for some reason.

 

[Anfurnyy]

How do the spark plugs look like? If the #2/3 look more dry black fouled than #1/4, maybe the injector flow difference between each cylinder or weaker spark at #2/3 for some reason.

I haven't pulled the plugs but I will tomorrow. If I had to guess, they're all going to be black because of all the cold start turning stuff I've been doing lately. Most likely desperately needed new plugs

 

[DSMPT]

Stock mitsu composite

O-ringed the block with grooves on the head side?

 

[Anfurnyy]

O-ringed the block with grooves on the head side?

No sir. 100% OEM composite gasket, with copper spray. No o-rings.

 

[Anfurnyy]

How do the spark plugs look like? If the #2/3 look more dry black fouled than #1/4, maybe the injector flow difference between each cylinder or weaker spark at #2/3 for some reason.

Left to right: 4 3 2 1

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

2 and 1are not getting enuf coolant to keep the plug body cool. All of the plugs show signs. Has it ever overheated?
3 and 4 look like they where starting to creep into the threads, as i see it. That may be normal for you. It just looked different to me..

 

[Anfurnyy]

2 and 1are not getting enuf coolant to keep the plug body cool. All of the plugs show signs. Has it ever overheated?
3 and 4 look like they where starting to creep into the threads, as i see it. That may be normal for you. It just looked different to me..

Well it did "overheat" once. Car blew a coolant nipple cap, lost pretty much all coolant. Drove home (about 1 mile) and last I saw temps in the ECU was showing like 250°.

I don't know if that was right or not because there was no/little coolant but that's what happened. Car ran and drove fine after that still actually.

 

[1cleangsx]

No sir. 100% OEM composite gasket, with copper spray. No o-rings.

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That’s impressive, headstuds look like L19’s?I think that SCE gasket won’t disappoint, I’ve only seen 39 psi on my baby 6266 but no issues , @mikEclipse99 ran like 60 psi on a 6870 on one with no complaints

 

[1cleangsx]

According to his build thread, I don’t know him personally so don’t quote me

 

[DSMPT]

once. Car blew a coolant nipple cap,

Perhaps the cylinder head got lifted a bit? Didn't you hear the sound that pushing coolant after pulling hard with high boost? I remember that I started to hear it some time later after I started to boost 50+ psi with no o-ring, just L19 studs and a MLS head gasket.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Perhaps the cylinder head got lifted a bit? Didn't you hear the sound that pushing coolant after pulling hard with high boost? I remember that I started to hear it some time later after I started to boost 50+ psi with no o-ring, just L19 studs and a MLS head gasket.

I didn't hear anything, honestly. If I didn't I wouldn't have kept doing pulls. The car is fairly lound so that's probably why. I did see some extra coolant in the overflow but no ballooned radiator or anything like that.

 

[1cleangsx]

To me your plugs just look rich, with the boost you’ve ran on a 67mm turbo with no O-rings I’d say your BALLS are bigger than your problems. What’s your engine compression? I assume your timing isn’t too crazy at 8000rpm, my guess would be valve stem seals on 2 and 3, if you had 2 injectors out of 4 jacked up your AFR’s would show it

Considering your hot start crank sensor issues that might also explain the break up at high boost?